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Some troubleshooting/questions about DIY
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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Xien
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Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:11 am      Reply with quote
I'm thinking of purchasing Mini ProMixer from Lotioncrafters. Is this strong enough for emulsions? I used brambleberry mini mixer for serums but it was not strong enough for creams and some of the batches for facial creams/lotions are too small for me to break out the full sized blender. The Mini ProMixer is made of stainless steel though so I wonder would that be good for vitamin C serums since metal oxidizes L-ascorbic?

I also in doubt with weighing ingredients. If I use a measuring spoon for actives and the weighing scale says different or doesn't register, which do you trust?

Lastly I been playing around with Gelmaker ultra and I have an issue with separation and the finished product balling up and flaking off skin. Do I reduce emulsifier, actives, oils or increase water content?
ShastaGirl
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Fri Aug 15, 2014 10:40 am      Reply with quote
Not sure about the mixer you mention as I'm not familiar with it. But, I would not use metal with my vitamin C.

Weight of actives is always more accurate than measure via spoons.

With the gelmaker, are you using sea kelp by chance? That always balls up on me. I've not had problems with gelmaker. I'd be most suspect of the emulsifier.
Xien
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 1:02 am      Reply with quote
ShastaGirl wrote:
Not sure about the mixer you mention as I'm not familiar with it. But, I would not use metal with my vitamin C.

Weight of actives is always more accurate than measure via spoons.

With the gelmaker, are you using sea kelp by chance? That always balls up on me. I've not had problems with gelmaker. I'd be most suspect of the emulsifier.


Ok got it thanks!

But is it worth it to invest in a costly weighing scale offered by Lotioncrafter you think? I bought a cheap one off ebay and it doesn't seem very sensitive. Actually I am wondering if it's at all accurate. How does it give 2 completely different readings for same amounts of different powdered actives? For e.g Niacinamide vs Glucosamine?

That's the funny part! I only used sea kelp in my eye gel (was worried about using it on the face as I read algae can clog pores) and it went on quite smoothly. The eye gel was considerably thinner and with less actives. The lotion that balled up on me is thicker. I used more emulsifier and 5% of oil including phytocide elderberry so I'm thinking it's either the oil or the emulsifier. Yet with only 5% of oil this emulsion shouldn't be separating at all, I have to wonder why.
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 6:43 am      Reply with quote
Xien wrote:

But is it worth it to invest in a costly weighing scale offered by Lotioncrafter you think? I bought a cheap one off ebay and it doesn't seem very sensitive. Actually I am wondering if it's at all accurate. How does it give 2 completely different readings for same amounts of different powdered actives? For e.g Niacinamide vs Glucosamine?


The same amount of different actives will have different weights. A teaspoon of vitamin C power will not weigh the same as a teaspoon of niacinamide. If you weigh the same teaspoon of vitamin c powder multiple times it should give you the same weight reading. Is there a way to calibrate the the scale? Might help you feel better (or not Very Happy ) about it's accuracy.
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Sat Aug 16, 2014 6:49 am      Reply with quote
One more thought...typically you'll want a scale that measures to 0.01 gram.

There are a couple of reasonably priced ones here (I have no affiliation with the company):
http://stores.skinessentialactives.com/scales-and-calibration-weights/
Xien
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Sun Aug 17, 2014 6:14 am      Reply with quote
Laughing That would explain so much! My worries are unfounded then. Yes my weighing scale is only 0.1 gm, actually I ordered 0.01 but somehow it came as 0.1gm and I had to make do *shrug* u know ebay sellers lol. Rolling Eyes

That site looks great, plus it says their location is in Taiwan that might make shipping faster and cheaper to me than a US site, thanks so much! Very Happy Too bad they don't stock my staple items (Ritamulse, olive peg esters and Leucidal) or I would order regularly from them.
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Sat Aug 30, 2014 4:48 pm      Reply with quote
Xien, if you like RitaMulse and are looking for alternative suppliers, may I suggest this:

http://www.ingredientstodiefor.com/item/NatureMulse_/138?category=25

its the same INCI: Glyceryl Stearate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
ECOCERT

I like it for serums and lotions but I have to add xanthan to stabilize it. I just hand stir the water in oil emulsion if its a small batch and it works fine - no mixer needed. In fact the only time I use a mixer is for large batches of cream and then I use a BaMix (heavy duty stick blender). Those little battery powered whips are useless for me and stir too much air into the emulsions.

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Xien
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Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:55 am      Reply with quote
Thanks for the site! I would check it out, I was thinking of getting ECOMulse from lotioncrafters. The price looks to be cheap but the shipping is quite high! Shock

Yes Ritamulse, ECOMulse and Naturemulse are the same thing right?! Very Happy

I get my Olive Oil peg esters from Garden of Wisdom. Leucidal SF usually from Formulator Sample Shop.

I have been using Ritamulse for body creams, somehow didn't like the texture as much for face products. I use lecithin to thicken it and yes it emulsifies easily with just stirring.

The gelmaker needs more work, I actually didn't have success with it when it comes to vitamin C E ferulic serums, it wouldn't dissolve and sort of clumped up into one sticky mess at the bottom. I now use polysorbate 80 instead. I find Gelmaker works well for face lotions and gels, it gives a dewy glowy finish, but I need a battery operated mixer or it just won't thicken up nicely. I use the tiny mixer from Brambleberry (Not very powerful and the attachment keeps falling off). Now it's tricky because I find how fast it goes will determine how thick the mixture ends up :S Once I went at it full speed and it quickly solidifies into dried up glue. Dumped in a cup of water to dilute it and turned it into a hand cream instead.

P/S: discovered that using some powdered actives solves the balling up problem.
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