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Sun Jan 31, 2016 9:17 am  |
I'm thinking about formulating a serum or lotion with 15% azelaic acid.
Anyone with experience or a chemistry background have any advice re: solubility, pH, etc.? |
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Fri Feb 26, 2016 11:59 am |
I found out that azelaic acid is relatively insoluble in water, but it is soluble in glycols - dipropylene glycol for one, if heated to 70 deg C. (I also found out that some sort of polymerization reaction occurs if you microwave it so don't do that.)
Now I have a 30% w/w azelaic acid and dipropylene glycol solution and I need to make a serum, lotion or gel that is 15%.
Anyone have any suggestions? |
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Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:05 pm |
| What exactly are you wanting to use it for? The stats on this make it seem a difficult chemical for DIY. |
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Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:21 pm |
| I've used Finacea gel for acne (rosacea and vulgaris), hyperpigmentation and anti-aging and have found it to be quite effective. Unfortunately it is expensive. I see on Amazon there is a non-prescription product that is also 15%, but at $40 an ounce, I would still like to do better in terms of price. |
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Fri Feb 26, 2016 3:33 pm |
Now that my solution has had a few hours to cool, I see some crystals forming, not surprising at 30%, I suppose.
There are some patents describing some formulations.
This one uses carbomer, and unlike Finacea, no lecithin:
http://www.google.com/patents/US20100004338
here's another one:
http://www.google.com/patents/EP0831768A1?cl=en
I've seen some mention on hair loss forums of people using straight dipropylene glycol/azelaic acid. It's kind of thin and greasy feeling. |
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Fri Feb 26, 2016 4:19 pm |
Good luck..but if you decide to try something simpler you can try a N-acetyl glucosamine and niacinamide serum. It does everything you seem to be looking for...and more.
It has done an excellent job fading my hyperpigmentation and that's just the tip of the iceberg..
Plus it's cheap, stable and easy to formulate. |
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Sat Feb 27, 2016 7:13 am |
Have you tried turmeric root powder? It's cheap and does a good job of removing pigmentation. I think you can also make a paste and leave it on overnight for sunspots if you want.
Mix equal parts of t powder, yogurt, and honey. Apply with a 1" paint brush and let it dry. After 30 minutes, wash off with warm water. Repeat for 6 days. It does exfoilate so don't rub your face too hard.
Warning!!! T powder stains! Wear old shirt. Pull back your hair. Wash off mask in sink that won't stain like stainless steel. |
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Sun Feb 28, 2016 12:24 am |
Tigerlily,
Where did you get the niacinamide/glucosamine serum? |
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Sun Feb 28, 2016 3:56 am |
| naia2006 wrote: |
Tigerlily,
Where did you get the niacinamide/glucosamine serum? |
Despite reading recommendations of how well they worked together I couldn't find one.
Or at least one that looked that good to me.
So I made it.
I'm not sure which recipe I made but there are several on this forum. Check out the sticky thread at the head of this Skincare tools % DIY forum. It has a list and link to all the serum recipes on this board.
I'm not doing it just for the hyperpigmentation aspect...it's both anti aging and anti acne and has a lot of talents.
But I had 2 spots on my face (upper cheek both sides where I'd once gotten rosey cheeks from the sun) that had faded with things like RA and Vit C but had reached a plateau and were stubborn. DIY Vit C serum knocked it off the plateau but using this has made all the difference.
I also had some skin discolorations on my outer forearms(the part that you can't see..sun damage)..I tried it on one side and it kicked butt. I'm a believer.. |
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Sun Feb 28, 2016 3:06 pm |
I've still been experimenting with the azelaic acid (AzAc) since I still have a bunch.
It stays stable in dipropylene glycol alone, but not if you add in water, even in smaller proportions than in the patents I referenced above; even at around 50/50 dipropylene glycol/water mix after a few hours it turns into a sort of grainy, greasy goop. Which is what happened when I microwaved azelaic acid in water and azelaic acid in glycerin, only with the microwaved mixtures it happened within minutes instead of hours. The dipropylene glycol/H2O/AzAc grainy, greasy goop is gross to look at and touch, but if you rub it into the skin it is actually nice. Still, I'm not sure about it.
I think I may try glycerine/AzAc and use it a after a few minutes of cooling from the water bath. I find glycerin much more pleasant than dipropylene glycol.
I'll try the niacinamide/NAG as well. |
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Mon Feb 29, 2016 1:53 am |
Tigerlily,
You have me convinced. Can you tell me how you made your serum? I wish you would sell it! |
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Mon Feb 29, 2016 5:52 am |
| naia2006 wrote: |
Tigerlily,
You have me convinced. Can you tell me how you made your serum? I wish you would sell it! |
Oh no..lots of people on here make their own serums
And I think besides this one and Vit C the only other I might be interested in making is something like a CoQ10 or a alpha lipoic serum or something like that. But the more stuff you acquire for recipes (besides the actives) the more you want to try.
I think this is the one I made:
http://myfunnyvalentineblog.com/2011/04/mum-look-what-i-made-diy-5-niacinamide-3-glucosamine-and-green-tea-serum.html
but you need a scale for it.
You might want to start out simpler from the recipes in our DIY section (from Keliu)
like this one:
G & N Serum 1oz
½ tsp. Glucosamine (5%)
¼ tsp. Niacinamide (2.5%)
5 tsp. Distilled water
1 tsp. Glycerin
or this one:
G & N Serum 1oz/30ml
5 tsp. Distilled water
3 ml Dimethyl Isosorbide(for penetration (10%)
½ tsp. Glucosamine (5%)
¼ tsp. Niacinamide (2.5%)
1 tsp. Glycerin
or then again you could buy one like this:
http://purifiedskincare.com/clarity-b3-and-nag/ |
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Mon Feb 29, 2016 6:47 am |
Finacea gel rocks
I am using it right now.
It helps to clear my skin, even skin tone and shrink the open pores (especially those on the nose.
Fortunately, I am in Australia, I get it for under $30 for 30g.
The formulae is hard to emulate.
As a gel, 15% is all that is required, if a cream base was used, probably a higher percentage is required. 
Best is that when it dries, there is no oily sticky feeling, it dries matte. Easy to layer other skin care products like my serums, moisturiser & sunscreen.
ps: i do not own shares in the company. This is my honest opinion.
Question:
I am thinking of starting a exfoliating step with AHA/BHA and use Differin (Vitamin A tretinoin equivalent), do you think i should stop using Finacea?  |
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Tue Mar 01, 2016 1:41 am |
Tigerlily,
Do you think the glycerin is important or I could just use aloe? Also where are you getting your active ingredients?
If you say it makes a huge difference in pigmentation, I am going to try this. |
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Tue Mar 01, 2016 8:59 am |
You can get glycerin on Amazon, perhaps even in some drugstores. It is cheap. Pure niacinamide and n-acetyl glucosamine powders are also on Amazon.
Supplies are also available from lotioncrafter.com, skinactives.com and a few others.
---
preciousa:
I was alternating tretinoin and finacea at night and using a mild salicylic acid cleanser (CeraVe) in the morning. If I were you I'd just try the tretinoin/finacea and see how that goes before trying anything else. |
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Tue Mar 01, 2016 1:31 pm |
| naia2006 wrote: |
Tigerlily,
Do you think the glycerin is important or I could just use aloe? Also where are you getting your active ingredients?
If you say it makes a huge difference in pigmentation, I am going to try this. |
In this instance I think it's only for moisturizing and "slip" so I wouldn't think it would make any difference to use aloe instead.
I have gotten ingredients from Skinactives, GOW, Lotioncrafters, Amazon and Ebay.
I think I got this particular batch on Ebay because the seller had a niacinamide &Glucosamine NAG combo deal. I know some people don't trust Ebay but I've sold (and bought) on there for 15 years and have only gotten screwed as a seller.
I can only say it has made a huge difference for me. I do also do RA, 20% C serum and dermarolling and lightstim (among other things) and this has made the most difference in terms of hyper-pigmentation and dark spots and it has done it the quickest. And it has research behind it..
It's also so good for your skin otherwise. If you haven't already then do a little research on all the benefits. |
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Tue Mar 01, 2016 11:02 pm |
| Thank you again. Would you mind telling me the ebay seller? I use ebay a lot and would have no issues buying there |
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Thu Mar 03, 2016 12:24 pm |
| preciousia wrote: |
Finacea gel rocks
I am using it right now.
It helps to clear my skin, even skin tone and shrink the open pores (especially those on the nose.
Fortunately, I am in Australia, I get it for under $30 for 30g.
The formulae is hard to emulate.
As a gel, 15% is all that is required, if a cream base was used, probably a higher percentage is required.
Best is that when it dries, there is no oily sticky feeling, it dries matte. Easy to layer other skin care products like my serums, moisturiser & sunscreen.
ps: i do not own shares in the company. This is my honest opinion.
Question:
I am thinking of starting a exfoliating step with AHA/BHA and use Differin (Vitamin A tretinoin equivalent), do you think i should stop using Finacea? |
I know that Finacea was very reasonable on Australian websites. IIRC it is OTC. Maybe check Australian pharmacy sites? |
_________________
Canadian with fair skin. 50+ years old sensitive and reactive. |
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Fri Mar 04, 2016 12:04 am |
| Thank you again Tigerlily! I ordered from GoW and am so excited to try the glucosamine. I have been using their niacinamide powder for a month or two and I admit, my pigmentation has suddenly gotten a lot better. I am really hopeful the glucosamine will help too. |
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Wed Mar 09, 2016 4:48 pm |
| How is azelaic acid different from salicylic acid? |
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Fri Feb 08, 2019 2:11 am |
Salicylic acid is a BHA and oily soluble. Typically used to 1-2% for exfoliating action for oily skin.
Azelaic acid is in a class of chemical called dicarboxylic acids. It works to treat *rosacea* by decreasing the swelling and redness of the skin via its anti inflammatory action.
It is naturally produced by a yeast that is found on our skin, known as Malassezia furfur. It is naturally found in grains such as rye and barley.
Further to it being effective against rosacea, it also has ability to even out pigmentation and to improve skin tone.
Typically used at 10-15% cream or silicone gel, because it is not soluble in water.
| preciousia wrote: |
| How is azelaic acid different from salicylic acid? |
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