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Wed Feb 07, 2007 4:41 am  |
I've been threatening this for some time and its well and truly underway. I've not used acids for maybe 10 days (was only using very minimally anyhow) and none of the delightful Diacneal/Ystheal for about a week. I'm not having to meet a lot of strangers at the moment so it seemed a good time to start this.
Firstly I really want to see whether my previous improvements with these have been long-term. Then I want to see if I can use totally non-irritating things and get more improvements and finally I want to be free to enjoy myself outdoors without worrying about my thinner corneal layer making me sensitive to the sun, which it does despite SS.
My skin's already looking a bit rougher all round. People familiar with me have been eyeing my cheek meets eye crumples suspiciously, my pores look bigger, my hyperpigmentation looks a bit more obvious. But the side of my face where I've been using supercop (stopped that as well a couple of weeks ago) does look smoother and more even than the other side which is good to see.
I'm going to introduce the Super peptide treatment from skincarecentral and maybe the Nia 24 as I understand neither of these are irritating nor barrier thinning. Correct me if I'm wrong.
I'm waiting for those. In the meantime my regimen is: AM - Berry Ben, PSFs Cranberry eye, Chrysalyx, emu, Avene SS
PM: Skinmedica's C Complex (I know its a bit acid and exfoliating, but its my new toy. I think I'll drop this too)
I'll let you know just how ugly I get.
Molly  |
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Fri Feb 16, 2007 8:28 pm |
| Molly wrote: |
And PERSONALLY I want to explore a total non-inflammatory route, which isn't just his theory - I came here from Skinbio years ago and he's very anti that too as is Paula Begoun (yep they all sell stuff). I've noticed sitting here on EDS over the years that people who pop up and say they can't use anything very strong or irritating actually seem to have nice skin and that makes me wonder whether their inability to use anything harmful has helped their anti-aging. Besides so many of these anti-aging products are great for oily/acneic people and I'm not in that camp.
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Hi Molly,
I am definately in that catagory.
When I was growing up I only used Pears sopa on my face (until I was about 25).
I only started buying expensive products when I was about 34 (about the time I started to wear makeup).
I am now 38 and really like my skin.
My plan:
I was going to get Ystheal retinol for my face but have decided not to.
I use PSF Vitamin C Serum (12% everyday under SS) - I like this active so will keep it.
I haven't used acid on my face for a few weeks now (I only use 10% lactic acid) and will only use it once a week.
I am going to get Sofina SS (thank you to the lovely Vonstella) and want to get into Mineral Makeup - maybe Alima. |
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Fri Mar 23, 2007 5:16 am |
| Molly wrote: |
I'm looking ROUGH ..............
I haven't been using anything daily so I'm going to step it up and see if I can get results from any one of these products. Might mix up some niacinamide too. I'll give it a couple of weeks and by then I'll be desperate for at least a weekly exfoliant of the gentle variety. |
So that's what I wrote on 12th March just over 10 days ago. It's now 7 weeks since I stopped acids and retinoids.
I'm really pleased to say that I'm finally seeing improvements. I dropped my half face experiments a couple of days ago because I'm beginning to look like a stroke victim. Unfortunately I keep accidentally picking one side of my face for the things that make a difference and the other side for the things that don't 
I've dumped the Huber 2 days a week idea; I'm now packing my actives on with a ladle, twice daily.
I've been using Niacinamide nightly on the good-looking side of my face and I'm thrilled to bits with it. I've got refined pores, some brightening, improved lines and the best bit - a new *sheen* to the skin surface. This is something I've really noticed over the past couple of years. Where did that sheen go? No amount of exfoliation or actives have brought it back.
I think that's because my main focus has been on stimulating the underlying structure of the skin: GAGs, proteins, collagen and I'd ignored the other skin barrier elements on the surface.
In Carol Demas' book she says about Niacinamide "it promotes synethesis of sphingolipids, including ceramides.............also increases free fatty acid (2.3 fold) and cholesterol synethesis (1.5 fold), while decreasing TEWL" and Skincarecentral says similar things.
I really think I can see this happening (I hope I'm not being fanciful there) and it can't be any other element because I'm just bunging it in some HA.
So, I've been looking into ceramides and sphingolipids a bit more and am using a supermarket own brand with them in - I see improvements to the surface texture from that too  though I'd like to make my own because and up the percentage.
My big personal conclusion is the strip and repair method is not the only way and not necessarily the best way for some kinds of skin. I have no desire to go back to exfoliation.
What else; I can really see the difference two months of Supercop cream made - again to that better side of my face. It should look worse because it's the side I sleep on, but the skin has more spring and lift in it. So I want to add the cream again, but I think I'll do it in cycles from now on as it's one of those things that use receptors and I usually notice the improvements a while after I've stopped using. I think this is down to the CPs removing damaged proteins as well as stimulating collagen. They seem to do more of the former and then the skin builds up more later. Just a theory.
What else - yep, been using the Superpeptide serum on the bad side of my face, but only nightly for two weeks now. I'm slowly seeing some improvements in fine lines which sometimes appear to the side my face, next to my eye if I'm not using actives. Otherwise not too much to report in terms of tone/clarity etc. Nice to use though because it's light and just vanishes.
Just added MAP a few days ago and I'll be damned if I can't see some brightening already. Didn't see anything using Tetra alone.
That's all - I'm very pleased now with how things are working out, although I worry slightly about the lack of Vitamin A in the long-term so I might start using Vivant's exfol A occasionally as it's in my drawer. I don't think it really exfoliates so much as films you over.
bit of an essay sorry - not that I'm obsessed or anything  |
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Mon Apr 09, 2007 3:24 pm |
I posted this under the thread on copper peptides already and thought it would be well added here as well, since part of this thread was 302 skincare and the theory of Dr.Huber about receptor desensitizing via topical overuse. So, I also asked Dr.Pickart to see what he has to say.
Here my question and his reply:
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Dr.Pickart, I have heard that using all kinds of topical actives on a daily basis would lead to down regulation/insensitivity of the skin receptors. The result being that the actives wont have the effect they had at first followed by the need for higher amounts and finally a shut down. It was advised to use the same active only every other day.
Would you please clarify this for me? Is there any scientific truth to this and if so, does it apply to copper peptides as well in some regard. Should people take a break from it every so often perhaps?
Thank you very much Dr.Pickart |
Dr. Pickart's reply:
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This does happen for many types of cells.
So it may be best to stop using various products for about one week a month. It would take about a week to reactivate cell receptors. |
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