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Sat Aug 10, 2013 10:14 am  |
| bethany, does Dr T mention dermal needling at all? And, please, share your thoughts about his review of various devices. |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 11:19 am |
| I am about 40% done....I would not recommend anyone buy until I write up a review. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 11:22 am |
| bethany wrote: |
| I am about 40% done....I would not recommend anyone buy until I write up a review. |
Waiting impatiently...  |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 12:37 pm |
| RussianSunshine wrote: |
| bethany wrote: |
| I am about 40% done....I would not recommend anyone buy until I write up a review. |
Waiting impatiently... |
It is definitely a tedious read with a gazillion stats...if it was a fiction book, I would be done by now! |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 5:00 pm |
4 chapters left, and I can already tell you I am giving this 2 thumbs up....I have learned a ton, but will have to re-read it again if I hope to remember any of it, lol.
FYI that this is not the kind of book where things can really be summarized in a nutshell like Dr. S's book....it is WAY more extensive than that.
And it is also NOT a sales pitch for his products like some other derms have written (though I am very glad I am using the products after reading this book). |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 7:47 pm |
I had to take a break....reading electronically gives me way more eye strain than a regular book.  And frankly, I am on complete info overload at this point. However I should be done tomorrow and will hopefully write a review tomorrow. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sat Aug 10, 2013 9:33 pm |
Ok...I have finished the book! Review to come tomorrow.
FYI on the MelanoLyte Tx for pigmentation...I paid $75 for my first bottle via a seller on eBay, and received 1 oz in an airless pump. (Expiration was in 2014)
I just finished it, and pulled out the back up which I had purchased from Lovelyskin at 25% off for $74...I was surprised to see that it is now in a tube (very small opening to protect from air) and had 1.7 oz.  exp date was 2015, so this is clearly newer packaging.
I am very glad I didn't reorder from the eBay person, even though it appeared that they worked at a spa or doctor's office. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 12:51 pm |
| Hi Bethany, did Dr. T mention any nice oil soluble actives? please share if any, TIA! |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 12:57 pm |
| daler wrote: |
| Hi Bethany, did Dr. T mention any nice oil soluble actives? please share if any, TIA! |
Daler, he basically provided a whole list of actives with an overview of what they do, clinical studies if available, etc. When I reread it, I will see if anything specific jumps out at me as "recommended." |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 1:07 pm |
Thank you bethany.
Also, since barrier protection has been discussed here I ll add that for the last few months I stopped using a cleanser in the morning, I just splash my face with plain water several times during my morning shower and it works wonderfully. I have realized that I really didn't need a cleanser in t morning, it was overkill for my skin type, just once at night is enough for me.... |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 2:27 pm |
I am like you daler, Ive found if I use a cleanser twice a day my skin dries up and becomes tight and sore really quickly.
I usually just use water in the am too , and either cleanse or do OCM in the pm, sometimes I dont even do that if it feels dry and I haven't had any makeup on 
I think though with all the stuff I am doing that I will buy the melanocyte tx( for some pigmentation on my cheek) and the facial renewal cream.
I havent ordered yet but Bethanys recs are really compelling |
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46 got (PMD,Caci,QuasarMD,Tria , skin spatula) Using, environ , myfawnie serums, lacsal, retinol, GHk probably more but too embarrased to say |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 3:07 pm |
| 10Sylvia5 wrote: |
I am like you daler, Ive found if I use a cleanser twice a day my skin dries up and becomes tight and sore really quickly.
I usually just use water in the am too , and either cleanse or do OCM in the pm, sometimes I dont even do that if it feels dry and I haven't had any makeup on
I think though with all the stuff I am doing that I will buy the melanocyte tx( for some pigmentation on my cheek) and the facial renewal cream.
I havent ordered yet but Bethanys recs are really compelling |
10Sylvia5, before you order the MelanoLyte I would compare it against the new SkinMedica Lytera (and read the hyperpigmentation article above). That way you can pick whichever fits best into your Skincare program because they are VERY different. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 3:18 pm |
| bethany, did I miss your review of the book? |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:09 pm |
| RussianSunshine wrote: |
| bethany, did I miss your review of the book? |
Nope...I am actually typing it up now! If you want, I can do a brief review of each chapter and include some factoids but it will take a bit longer to sift through all of my highlights. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:21 pm |
| bethany wrote: |
| Nope...I am actually typing it up now! If you want, I can do a brief review of each chapter and include some factoids but it will take a bit longer to sift through all of my highlights. |
If you've learned a lot from the book, I will probably learn even more! So... I went and bought the last copy of the paperback book from Amazon 
Please feel free to write any type of review you want. I'll like it anyway |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 4:30 pm |
| RussianSunshine wrote: |
| bethany wrote: |
| Nope...I am actually typing it up now! If you want, I can do a brief review of each chapter and include some factoids but it will take a bit longer to sift through all of my highlights. |
If you've learned a lot from the book, I will probably learn even more! So... I went and bought the last copy of the paperback book from Amazon
Please feel free to write any type of review you want. I'll like it anyway |
I sure hope you like it...be prepared for info overload! |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 5:42 pm |
All,
Here is the initial book review, since I know there are some people interested in what it contains. I will share more info on each chapter later, including some info I personally found interesting.
Book review: New Ideal in Skin Health: Separating Fact from Fiction (Bourne, Krista; Thornfeldt, Carl)
In a nutshell, this was a very extensive read which caters to professionals thinking about starting a med spa, adding services to an existing practice, or trying to decide which skincare products to carry in their office. It contains a LOT of information…some beneficial now, as well as being a reference guide for ingredients/actives (their uses, clinicals, etc.). I think there is something for everyone in this book (meaning skin-focused consumers), but I don’t think the book is for everyone simply because not everyone likes to wade through tons of info. If you are looking for a book that says “buy this and this,” this is NOT that book. Dr. Thornfeldt presents info on many different options, along with many references to stats and clinical studies so that you can make up your own mind as to what choices you want to make.
This book was also NOT an advertisement for his products or services….”Epionce” appeared one time in reference to a skin barrier repair study, but no other Epionce products were discussed. However, in the protocol section I was able to figure out which products he was using, which I appreciated as an Epionce user.
This book is also so extensive in data that I can’t send you “a quick summary” in PM, though I can tell you this:
- He views maintaining the skin barrier as absolutely critical - without barrier repair/protection everything else is for naught (except sunscreen) . But if you focus on the barrier, you can actually reverse extrinisic aging.
- You need 3 components for barrier repair – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a ratio of 3:1:1. Forty-five minutes after a barrier injury, restoring the three key lipid ratio and the function of the permeability barrier results in over 90 percent recovery as measured by TEWL.
- Anyone using traditional moisturizers, acids, retinols, or doing microdermabrasion, facial scrubs, etc. is damaging their barrier and needs to focus on barrier repair.
- Most cosmecutical/drugstore products do not contain the appropriate level of actives, nor have they been typically been clinically tested in the final formulations nor the appropriate human body part.
- There are 9 complete steps for delivery of an active at the right level to the right place in the skin. Just because you slather it on, doesn't mean it actually gets absorbed.
- Clinical studies can be misleading. The bottom line is to look for the p-value in the Results section. If the p-value is higher than 0.05, then the clinical data is not scientifically strong enough to support claims that the product works.
- The skin is an indicator of what else is happening inside the body. Various skin issues should be telling you that there are other aspects of your health that you should be considering.
To sum it up, this book tells you how to take care of your skin for the long term, how to find the best products available (and the criteria to judge them against), and helps identify the best solutions for various skin problems....whether it is a topical, an oral supplement, or a procedure.
More to come on the chapters below....
Section I Welcome to Esthetics
Chapter 1 Defining Roles
Section II Understanding the Skin
Chapter 2 Skin Basics
Chapter 3 Application of a New Understanding of Skin Health
Section III Cosmeceuticals
Chapter 4 Cosmeceuticals— OTC/ Prescription/ Professional
Chapter 5 Cosmeceutical Ingredients— What are the Claims, What are the Facts?
Chapter 6 Cosmeceuticals: Botanical Ingredients
Chapter 7 Topical Delivery of Cosmeceuticals
Chapter 8 Controversial Ingredients
Section IV Application
Chapter 9 Putting it into Practice: Choosing the Right Products
Chapter 10 Putting it into Practice: Other Therapeutic Options
Chapter 11 Putting it into Practice: Treatment Protocols
Chapter 12 Putting it into Practice: Success Tools
http://www.amazon.com/The-New-Ideal-Skin-Health/dp/1932633693/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1376267087&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=thornfeldt |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:30 pm |
| bethany wrote: |
You need 3 components for barrier repair – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a ratio of 3:1:1. Forty-five minutes after a barrier injury, restoring the three key lipid ratio and the function of the permeability barrier results in over 90 percent recovery as measured by TEWL.
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Thank you for all this info bethany!
This would be lots of ceramides; I cannot come up with an actual number but this would mean around 1 to 3% of ceramides or so if not more( not the solution containing the ceramides but the actual ceramides). AFA i know ceramides ( actual ceramides eg ceramide 3, ceramide 6 )are very very expensive and are present in mere mgs in products available.
Or did he mean by ceramides as in something like this:
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/sk-influx-v.html
may be I am totally confused here.... |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:48 pm |
| daler wrote: |
| bethany wrote: |
You need 3 components for barrier repair – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a ratio of 3:1:1. Forty-five minutes after a barrier injury, restoring the three key lipid ratio and the function of the permeability barrier results in over 90 percent recovery as measured by TEWL.
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Thank you for all this info bethany!
This would be lots of ceramides; I cannot come up with an actual number but this would mean around 1 to 3% of ceramides or so if not more( not the solution containing the ceramides but the actual ceramides). AFA i know ceramides ( actual ceramides eg ceramide 3, ceramide 6 )are very very expensive and are present in mere mgs in products available.
Or did he mean by ceramides as in something like this:
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/sk-influx-v.html
may be I am totally confused here.... |
I'll see what other info I can pull for you tomorrow. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:50 pm |
| bethany wrote: |
| daler wrote: |
| bethany wrote: |
You need 3 components for barrier repair – ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids in a ratio of 3:1:1. Forty-five minutes after a barrier injury, restoring the three key lipid ratio and the function of the permeability barrier results in over 90 percent recovery as measured by TEWL.
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Thank you for all this info bethany!
This would be lots of ceramides; I cannot come up with an actual number but this would mean around 1 to 3% of ceramides or so if not more( not the solution containing the ceramides but the actual ceramides). AFA i know ceramides ( actual ceramides eg ceramide 3, ceramide 6 )are very very expensive and are present in mere mgs in products available.
Or did he mean by ceramides as in something like this:
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/sk-influx-v.html
may be I am totally confused here.... |
I'll see what other info I can pull for you tomorrow. |
Thank you, may be I just dont know exactly what free fatty acids is.. i based my rough calculation on that... |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 6:56 pm |
| gahh Why do good books have to cost $80? |
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Esthetician working at a Med-spa. Love the Clarisonic! |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 7:03 pm |
| LauraLizzie wrote: |
| gahh Why do good books have to cost $80? |
I read that people may be able share the cost of books via Kindle book clubs (you don't need a Kindle to participate)....maybe someone will want to look into that further.
FYI that I will post more info to help decide if it is something you want to read or not. |
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No longer answering PM's due to numerous weird messages. |
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Sun Aug 11, 2013 11:36 pm |
| thanks Bethany, off to check that info now! |
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46 got (PMD,Caci,QuasarMD,Tria , skin spatula) Using, environ , myfawnie serums, lacsal, retinol, GHk probably more but too embarrased to say |
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Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:11 am |
Well my Dr T book had finally arrived, Boy Bethany, youve done brilliantly in your review.
Its very much aimed at the professional, and very comprehensive I have just skimmed it though.
I will start reading properly! But it has been enough for me to decide to order his renewal cream and the melanocyte tx .
I think they should incorporate ok into what Im using anyway.
He seems to agree with Dr Pickarts theory regarding moisturiser function and why most out there are useless or even bad for your skin barrier. Really interesting, also just because your skin is hydrated does not mean that your skin barrier is uncompromised! |
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46 got (PMD,Caci,QuasarMD,Tria , skin spatula) Using, environ , myfawnie serums, lacsal, retinol, GHk probably more but too embarrased to say |
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