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Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:17 am  |
I have tried to find search for a thread that talks about what various skin care ingredients are but I couldn't find one. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
I am specifically wondering about:
stearic acid
cetanol
isopropyl myristate
potassium hydroxide
I am 38 and I still struggle with acne. I can't use certain ingredients because I'm nursing. This has caused lots of problems with my acne because I can't seem to get it totally under control. I also try to use as many natural products as possible. I came across this pearl cream (Ly-Na Pearl Cream) in an asian store so I'm curious about it. I know pearl powder is good for the skin but it's the other ingredients I want to make sure are OK.
Thanks! |
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Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:47 am |
Stearic acid - Stearic acid comes from many animal and vegetable fats and oils. It is a waxy solid. Its name comes from the Greek word stéar (genitive: stéatos), which means tallow. Stearic acid is useful as an ingredient in making candles, soaps, plastics, oil pastels and cosmetics, and for softening rubber. Stearic acid is used to harden soaps, particularly those made with vegetable oil. Fatty acids are a carboxylic acid with a long unbranched aliphatic tail (chain), which is either saturated or unsaturated. Fatty acids derived from natural fats and oils may be assumed to have at least 8 carbon atoms. Most of the natural fatty acids have an even number of carbon atoms, because their biosynthesis involves acetyl-CoA, a coenzyme carrying a two-carbon-atom group. (source: 3dchem)
Cetnol - Cetylachohol (INCI name: Cetyl Alcohol). Cetanol (C 16H33=H) is a white, firm wax which melts at 48°C. Not water soluble but easy to dissolve in alcohol, ether or fatty oils. Traditionally obtained from the sperm whale but now taken from the palm oil fatty acid (palmitic acid) C16H33COOH, which is treated with liquid gas so the free oxygen (0) atom is removed. Cetylalcohol makes creams and lotions firmer and gives them consistency. It stabilises emulsification and its cosmetic effect is to make the skin soft and smooth. (source: organic salon)
Isopropyl myristate - Isopropyl myristate is used in cosmetic and topical medicinal preparations where good absorption through the skin is desired. (source: wikipedia)
Potassium Hydroxide - It is a major industrial chemical used as a base in a wide variety of chemical processes. Some uses of KOH include acrylate ester copolymer coating, defoaming agents used in the manufacture of paper , saponifying oils for liquid soap, formulation aid for food, pH control agent, polyethylene resins, textile processing and as a catalyst in reactions like the production of biodiesel. (source: potassiumhydroxide.com)
Im layman terms?
Stearic acid & cetanol are emulsifiers
Isopropyl myristate - aids absorption
Potassium Hydroxide - lye (used to make soap) |
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Think for yourselves and let others enjoy the privilege to do so, too. ~ Voltaire www.Candessence.com |
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Thu Jan 17, 2008 10:57 am |
Candy8865, your answers here are very good and right on target. I might be able to add a little more.
Stearic Acid is a highly used cosmetic raw material. You will almost always find it in lotions partly as an emulsifier and partly to add "body" to the cream or lotion. It is almost always neutralized with a "base" (high pH material), and that material could be Triethanolamine (TEA) or even sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. I believe that if ellyp saw these ingredients all in the same formula, then the potassium hydroxide is in the formula as a neutralizer for the stearic acid. Stearic acid is also used in old fashioned style "fatty acid" soaps. These types soaps often use a combination of stearic acid, myristic acid, Oleic acid, and palmitic acid, all neutralized with sodium or potassium hydroxide to form a soap. Soaps of this type leave you skin "squeaky clean" and are very popular in Japan and Asia.
Cetyl Alcohol is also a very popular cosmetic ingredient, and yes, it will be part of the emulsifier system in creams and lotions.
Isopropyl Myristate is also an emollient, but it is a low priced, and rather low function emollient. You generally find this material in low priced lotions and creams, where the manufacturer couldn't, or didnt' want to pay for better emollients.
Hope this extra information helps!
John |
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President and Chief Formulator for "Never Over The Hill Cosmetics" |
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Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:48 pm |
Wow, you two are awesome -- thanks!! It's so ironic that you both would be the ones to answer my question. Candy, I have been trying to get my personal budget in order so I can order a bunch of skin care products from you. I have been thinking about you a lot lately because of it and, lo and behold, you are the first to answer my question! It's a sign. 
John, based on your recommendation of Jojoba Esters and Gold Bond lotion, I bought some for my mother-in-law last spring. I am trying to only use natural products so I didn't want to buy any for myself. Well, my MIL loves the lotion! I tried it too and immediately went out to buy some.
We live in Colorado and it is verrrrry dry here. I bought a big bottle of the lotion and put one in all my bathrooms. I have been working on my young sons so that they put some on after they wash their hands every time. Lately, they have been crying because their hands hurt them due to extreme dryness and cracking. I have given up on them putting it on themselves and so I have started pulling them aside several times a day so I can slather them up. The lotion has helped their hands tremendously in such a short amount of time. I love how it sinks in quickly too (very necessary for young boys who are very active). Thanks so much for the recommendation!! |
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Fri Jan 18, 2008 8:05 am |
I'm glad the Gold Bond Ultimate Healing lotion is working out for your family ellyp. I knew it would, we have the clinical lab data to prove it. That's why I put jojoba esters in most of the formulas that I make. It does work as intended and is a natural raw material. Can't beat it!
John |
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President and Chief Formulator for "Never Over The Hill Cosmetics" |
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Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:06 am |
| John, can you point me to some other products with jojoba esters in them? You probably have already listed them somewhere on this site so you can always just give me a link, if you know it. |
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Fri Jan 18, 2008 9:26 am |
Send me a private message on this board ellyp and I'll give you a list of creams, lotions and anti-age products that contain jojoba esters.
John |
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President and Chief Formulator for "Never Over The Hill Cosmetics" |
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