Retinol vs Alpha Hydroxy Acid vs Glycolic Acid
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Thu May 01, 2008 9:16 am

My oldest sister has been using Retin-a for almost 30 years, originally for adult acne. She has a very fair complexion - is auburn haired so has the typical skin associated with that, which tends to be thin. She uses Retin-a several time a week. It's not scientific, but she has absolutely beautiful skin and easily looks 10 years younger than her actual age. She does not have any thinning of her skin. Her skin is one of the main reasons I started on Obagi since it is retinoid-based.

free skin care · Thu May 01, 2008 12:21 pm

RockingRobin wrote:

My oldest sister has been using Retin-a for almost 30 years, originally for adult acne. She has a very fair complexion - is auburn haired so has the typical skin associated with that, which tends to be thin. She uses Retin-a several time a week. It's not scientific, but she has absolutely beautiful skin and easily looks 10 years younger than her actual age. She does not have any thinning of her skin. Her skin is one of the main reasons I started on Obagi since it is retinoid-based.

Thanks for your input. If other members share their experiences, it might be a little bit scientific in the end..

In the current thread on product reviews forum called "302 Skincare - a non-acidic approach" a couple of women express their scepticism to acids, including tretinoin. (I didn't want to pursuit this issue on that thread - it's long enough).

Dr Huber, who I believe is the man behind the line, was quoted: "Also tretinoin causes a controlled burn in the deeper layers of the skin, subsequently weakening the skin at its deep foundation by thinning it and making it brittle".

I have not seen this stated by other doctors.

I'm not fond of strong acids, but I would like to use a retinoid.

free skin care · Thu May 01, 2008 2:16 pm

ETA: To be absolutely correct, the above is not a direct quote from Dr. Huber, but an interpretation of his supposed views on acids and tretinoin.

free skin care · Fri May 02, 2008 9:55 am

I heard a doctor on Oprah say that only AHA is really effective because it fools your skin into renewing itself...I can't remember the details but I've been using Skin Medica's AHA/BHA ever since and although I'm not certain its the best thing out, I always get surprised looks when I tell people my age. As I approach 60, that reaction is appreciated more and more each year Very Happy

Fri Dec 12, 2008 11:48 pm

I used to work in cosmetics at Saks Fifth Avenue. Their cosmetic counters are 100% intersell meaning that if I had someone approach me to buy a fragrance (my counter) then wanted skincare/make up I would continue waiting on the and recommend products I thought were effective. Trainers for various lines would come to our store and train the entire department (eg Chanel on new products, Sisley...). I have been trained on Lauder, Clinque, Lancome, Re Vive, Laura M., YSL, Dior, Bobbi Brown, Trish, MAC. Being a guy I really enjoyed the science behind the skincare products and would always read up and research (My manager said I liked to try to stump the trainers- not really but I did ask detailed questions) cont.

Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:02 am

In my experience the most effective products we carried were either Vitamin C based, AHA based, or retinal based all of which were "old school" as the industry has moved to supposedly less irritating peptides. AHA were my favorites to work with because they work on so many concerns. Someone with oily skin using AHAs will see a reduction in oil production plus their skin gains the ability to hold more water which is true hydration. On the other hand a person with dry skin benefits because the skin can utilize and hold moister more effectively and since dead skin is removed a moisturizer functions more effectively. Teen with mild acne? AHA like Lauder's Fruition Extra during the day and a Retinal based product like Diminish or Lancome's Resurface (hard to find) or ROCs Retinal based serum. Skin clears up in about a month. Unless your skin is extremely sensitive these in combination with the proper moisturizer work well with any skin type.

free skin care · Sat Dec 13, 2008 11:05 pm

I use Retin A now and have seen continuing improvement.I know it will take up to a year.Just have to stick to it.
Maybe younger sensitive skin would have more success with OTC products.

Sat Dec 13, 2008 11:44 pm

If I were you I would start with the lowest concetration which is (I think) 0.025 every other night and depending on your skins reaction keep it every other night for 2-4 weeks as your skin adjusts. Also if you allow your skin to dry about 15 minutes after cleansing this will reduce irritation (I would use a very mild cleanser-Clarifiance from lancome is excellent better than cetaphil) Wear a sunscreen during the day because not only will you burn quicker skin irritation of any kind will cause your Retin A to be more irritating. Get you a good moisterizer to use on top of the Retin a because it can be a bit drying. Estee Lauder's Verite line is great, Lancome's Hydra Zen is good, Clinique has a cream called Repairwear Night which is good for dry skin and are also made (the Verite for sensitive skin). Anyhow start slowly and build up to a stronger level. If you are female which I assume you are you may be more sensitive than I (men usually have thicker skin which gets irritated less often and we shave which toughens the skin) Excellent product but if you use too much too soon you will be red as a beet. Cheers!

free skin care · Sat Dec 13, 2008 11:58 pm

Hi Court and welcome!
I love all the info you have for us.
I also shave,not daily just whenever and can see my skin getting a bit thicker.I can tell that you were a top salesperson.Nice personality & knowledge! I use a variety of moisturizers,love avacado,Rosehip oil and now just using up some so-so Cellbone MoistSeal.Am thinking of using a 50% glycolic peel,but dont want to be peeling skin on the Holidays.

Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:32 am

I really enjoyed doing consultations on skin care. It was always cool to have a customer who came back wanting my advice on other products. I had a lady come in one day with acne and oily skin. She had seen her dermo Doc but still wasn't pleased so I put her in (I think) Vitabolic, resurface and some Lancome moisterizer. When she came back several weeks later she told me her Dermo. told her how good her skin looked. Not to imply I know skin better than her Doc but I think sometimes Docs get so busy treating true skin diseases that they are not very familiar with basic anti aging products. I am not familiar with the brand(s) you mentioned. I can say of the brands I worked with overall (price not considered) Lancome is the best, hands down. The only other line I would say equals Lancome is Guerlain and maybe some products from Re Vive. As far as the best creme for mature dry skin nothing bets absolue. Even cremes in the 300-500 dollar range.

free skin care · Sun Dec 14, 2008 9:35 am

Hi everyone. My experience with glycolic was Dr Denese firming facial pads..not sure of the strength 8 or 10%?...and it made the capillaries on my cheeks much worse (used them for several months) and I stopped as I was afraid it was too artificial and doing damage. I'm not sure how much our skin is meant to turn over and when it is too much. Harriet

Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:07 pm

I think it depends on an individuals skin. I like really aggressive stuff but my skin is relatively thick and not sensitive. The only problems I have had were from Creme de la Mer which made my skin itch (maybe to rich?) a Lancome Eye creme call Resolution (the face creme I can use) and oddly enough a product from clinique called all about eyes.

I had a guy shop with me once that had Rosacea. I gave him samples of a skin care line called Re Vive. The night creme in that line has AHAs so I didn't recommend it thinking it would irritate his rosacea. However he insisted on trying it. He came back 3 weeks later and told me the AHA product was helping his skin problems not making them worse. Go Figure. I did have the occasional customer who could not use anything. We would finally find a product they could handle but many times it would not be what targeted their concerns. I have a West Highland terrier who is allergic to grass. Grass! We have to rinse her little paws off when she comes inside. (She also has to take Xanax to keep her from chewing)
Oh. A good product for sensitive skin which will do a bit of exfoliation is Total Turn Around Creme from Clinique. It contains beta hydroxy acid which is extremely gentle.

free skin care · Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:34 pm

It is confusing isn't it. Here is some basic info about retinoids;

http://www.smartskincare.com/smartchoices/myths/myth_retinol_retina.html

and another article, but this is from Janssen, a cosmeceutical mnfr, so take that into consideration:

http://janssenbeauty.com/us/skincare.html#4

Hope this helps.

free skin care · Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:35 pm

Alley wrote:

Not to add to your reading list but I think you might find your answers here.

http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/

sorry, I didn't see your post before I added mine!

Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:16 pm

Alpha hydroxy irritates the skin cells so they fall off, and meanwhile it moisturizes the new emerging cells to produce a plump look that fills in fine lines and wrinkles. Supposedly this makes your skin look like a much younger looking person's skin. I have been using it for a couple of years with good results. I am 36 and often get mistaken for 26, of course being mistaken for 25 would be better so today I purchased a night cream with retinol (Loreal) and I'm hoping the combo doesn't prove too much for my skin

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