Male Skin Dilemma! Help! [kinda long ;P]
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 1:59 pm

I'm 21, male, a Make-up Artist/Esthetician, A cosmetic/skin care junkie, and my skin is really picky. Though it's come a long way, it needs some help. It's tough that I can treat my clients skin, but my own skin has me in an uproar. I recently stumbled upon EDS & Fell inlove with all you educated & opinionated skin care enthusiasts, and now I'm hoping I can get some help.

I have pretty oily skin, but alot of oily skin type products strip my skin and make it tight and flaky. I also can be a bit sensitive, but not incredibly so. And most unfortunate [my primary problem] all the places where I grow facial hair are extremely break-out prone.

My jawline, chin, and the area above my nose & between my brows seem to break out and get clogged with every product I've tried. My skin has gotten better since I stopped using lotions/creams on those areas, But I'm still getting clogged pores and breakouts [though the size of the actual blemishes is significantly smaller] in the same areas. At this point, I'm getting some scars as well. I have a few raised scars and quite a bit of non-raised marks that have faded, but are still visible to me.

Currently, all I can do to minimize breakouts is as followed.

AM/PM - Cleanse - MAC Cleanse Off Oil - Cuts the oil, emulsifies with water, rinses clean, and doesn't strip my skin. I really like this product.

AM/PM - Tone - Farmaeshetics Pure Complection Toner - An organic toner made with witch hazel, rose otto, chamomile, lavender, & glycerin. [I just got this and like it so far, previously I was using the Repechage T-Zone Balance Toner which felt nice, but I didn't think did anything]

AM Only
- Dermalogica Oil Control Lotion - I only use this product on my forhead and nose, though I still need mattification in other areas, I don't want to break out. To be honest I'm still not sure If I'm thrilled with this product. Most oil control products seem to let me down. Sad

- MAC MMU SPF 15 - For light coverage and a Physical UV Barrier

PM Only
- Mario Badescu Drying Lotion - Helps to really dry up and heal blemishes
- I don't use any moisturizer at night, because they all seem to make my skin break out.

I also exfoliate 1-2 times a week with Repechage One Minute Clarifying Mask/Scrub.

As far as shaving, I always do as I'm supposed too and Shave with the grain, never with a dull razor, and always with a Non-foaming Shave cream. [Currently using Origins Blade Runner Shave Cream & Origins Fire Fighter After Shave]

I've also tried supplements, Like taking Organic Neem. Acidophilus, or Murad Pure Skin Supplements. I continue to take Acidopilus for digestion but It had no noticable effect on the skin. My best results have been from the Principle "Less is more" but by nature I want to use products to improve my skin.

Also, I try to avoid any products that contain alcohol, synthetic fragrance, or potentially harmful preservitives. [The Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients is my close friend] I also love the Sun & the Beach, so I don't want anything that'll make me photosensitive. I always wear an SPF [daily & during any sun exposure] but I do enjoy getting a tan & believe there are beneficial effects of sun exposure. [Works wonders on season depression & my energy level!] I'm sure I'll get yelled at for not staying out of the sun, as I often do. Confused

Any suggestions?

P.S. Thanks so much for taking the time to read through my long & drawn out skin drama. Laughing

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:06 pm

Hi, Nemo.

I can tell that you are conscious about using quality skin care products. What immediately strikes me, is that you could benefit from a retinol/retinoid product at night. It will help with cell turnover, pore-cleansing and give anti-aging benefits. It makes your skin sun-sensitive, but you would anyway consider to protect your face from sun rays with sun block and caps. Some sun exposure of the body will help boosting your moods, energy and vitamin D levels.

I will leave to other, more competent people to "review" your current skin care regimen.

In addition to topical products, I have got three approaches for you to consider:

Supplements
Wheat/barley grass, berry powder, essential fatty acids (and other vitamins, minerals, antioxidants if desirable) can make a significant difference on your skin with consistent use.

No sugar
Sugar intake should be limited to a once a week-happening. I believe it causes inflammation in skin cells, promoting aging and acne issues. In my opinion, sugar is one of skin's biggest enemies.

Face brushing
Brushing your face on a daily basis can be highly beneficial for men as it prevents ingrown hairs and promotes pore cleansing. You can consider wet brushing with a cleanser. Dermalogica has a good face brush for this purpose.
Dry brushing has been discussed in a recent thread here, as it gives added benefits of lymph drainage and is supposed to normalize sebum production in both dry and oily skin. I don't know to which extent your skin type will benefit from it, or if wet brushing will be your best choice. Here's the thread:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=21409&highlight=facial+dry+brushing

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:23 pm

ETA: Forget about what I wrote about anti-aging benefits of retinoids. You're only 21.

P.S.

If you're ready for more high tech and expensive solutions, Clarisonic makes an electric face brush for wet cleansing, which lots of people rave about on this forum.

You may also look into the "blue light" devices for oily, acne-prone skin, like Baby Quasar and Ageless Beauty.

Good luck. Smile

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:25 pm

Thank you so much Septembergirl! I currently do take an Anti-oxidant Blend Multi-Vitamin & Omega-3 Fatty Acid Supplement Daily for Skin/Bodily Health. I'm a moderate health freak, so I don't consume too much sugar or junk, only occasionally.

I'm semi-familiar with Dry Brushing, and will definitely read that thread.

As for the Retinoids/Retinol, do you think I should look for a product containing it, or just a pure Retinol cream? Any particular product recommendations?

[Thanks so much for your reply!]

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:38 pm

Nemo!AtTheDisco wrote:

Thank you so much Septembergirl! I currently do take an Anti-oxidant Blend Multi-Vitamin & Omega-3 Fatty Acid Supplement Daily for Skin/Bodily Health. I'm a moderate health freak, so I don't consume too much sugar or junk, only occasionally.

I'm semi-familiar with Dry Brushing, and will definitely read that thread.

As for the Retinoids/Retinol, do you think I should look for a product containing it, or just a pure Retinol cream? Any particular product recommendations?

[Thanks so much for your reply!]

While on the subject of Retinols I must chime in. I never break out. However, every retinol I have used has caused eruptions on my chin. The only retinol product that I have had success with is Glymed Plus.

May I suggest as soon as you see the beginning of a blemish to zap it with a high frequency unit. Most salons have high frequency equipment. If you do not have access to such I highly recommend the Derma Wand. Several friends and family members can't be without it.

Personally, I highly recommend the Clarisonic to keep pores immaculate. Good luck. Smile

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:52 pm

In response to Winnie:

I'm not going to lie, retinoids make me a bit nervous anyway, though they probably shouldn't.

I do have a High Frequency Unit, I use it on myself periodically. Maybe I should try and use it more routinely.

I've been previously tempted to buy that brush, several times. Now I'm beyond tempted, and will probably end up owning it in the near future. Smile

Thanks so much for your help!!

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 3:54 pm

Several tips.

1. Don't use make up remover in the morning. There is nothing you really need to clean off from your face, as you won't get any dirt when you are sleeping. While the sebum is something necessary for your skin.

2. After applying make-up remover, use a GENTLE cleanser to remove the make-up remover. The principle of make-up remover is to use oil-dissolves-oil (hydrophobic dissolvation), so make-up remover is hydrophobic, and usually hard to get rid of just by water.

3. Use gentle cleansers. Harsh, purify, foaming, soap or whatever strong cleanser which remove all the oil on your skin with some moisture, so your skin will be forced to secret more oil to compensate it.

4. Don't control oil. You are always using harsh products, so your skin is not stimulated by the harshness of the products to produce oil, but also lacks moisture which asks for the protection of sebum. If you control oil, then your skin can't get any protection, the only way it will do is to become thicker, therefore clogging the pores. Even though you exfiolate your skin frequently, certainly those grains won't go into your pores to thinner your skin.

5. ALways hydrate your skin. Oil production is due to stimulation and moisture-loss. Give your skin enough hydration is to deal with moisture loss. And don't use harsh products will take care of the non-stimulation.

6. IF your skin is thick enough, try AHA, BHA et al, and don't use exfiolators. These acids really help.

7. Suncreen is always necessary, especially with problematic skin.

8. Wear as little make-up as possible. Make-up will make your pores bigger, and might clog your skin. Besides, very little make-ups don't have metal components.

9. Good habits, and good mood.

Good luck!

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 4:11 pm

Avene Diacneal contains 0.1 per cent retinaldehyde and glycolic acid. It has got good reviews and might be one of the best retinoic products for acne prone skin.

I have never had unwanted reactions from a retinol product, except flaking.

Here's a recent thread with a discussion on the difference between retinol and retinaldehyde. There are some product recommendations in the thread, as well.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=28793&highlight=promedic

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 4:28 pm

In response to januarui;

Thanks for all the great tips. It stinks that I spent 35 bucks on an Oil Control Lotion that isn't helping me, but trial & error is a way of life. haha!

In regards to the make up remover, the cleanse off oil I use starts as an Oil to remove makeup, but emulsifies with water, and is hydrophilic, thus leaves no residue. I like this because I always feel clean, not stripped, and fairly hydrated. I don't wear very much make-up, therefore I'm really using it as a face wash.

Do you think I should reconsider this product, or just not use it in the morning?

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 4:37 pm

Nemo!AtTheDisco wrote:

In response to januarui;

Thanks for all the great tips. It stinks that I spent 35 bucks on an Oil Control Lotion that isn't helping me, but trial & error is a way of life. haha!

In regards to the make up remover, the cleanse off oil I use starts as an Oil to remove makeup, but emulsifies with water, and is hydrophilic, thus leaves no residue. I like this because I always feel clean, not stripped, and fairly hydrated. I don't wear very much make-up, therefore I'm really using it as a face wash.

Do you think I should reconsider this product, or just not use it in the morning?

Well, I think as it is a make-up remover, it should be more hydrophobic. Emulsification means it is not water soluble, it just forms droplets in the water. As a result, it is definitly less soluble in water than a gentle cleanser which uses mild detergent.

I think you should use make-up remover at night with a gentle cleanser to remove sunscreen and a gentle cleanser alone in the morning to refresh yourself.

MAC cleanse-off is very good, you can stick to it as a make-up remover and sunscreen remover.

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 4:54 pm

januarui wrote:

Nemo!AtTheDisco wrote:

In response to januarui;

Thanks for all the great tips. It stinks that I spent 35 bucks on an Oil Control Lotion that isn't helping me, but trial & error is a way of life. haha!

In regards to the make up remover, the cleanse off oil I use starts as an Oil to remove makeup, but emulsifies with water, and is hydrophilic, thus leaves no residue. I like this because I always feel clean, not stripped, and fairly hydrated. I don't wear very much make-up, therefore I'm really using it as a face wash.

Do you think I should reconsider this product, or just not use it in the morning?

Well, I think as it is a make-up remover, it should be more hydrophobic. Emulsification means it is not water soluble, it just forms droplets in the water. As a result, it is definitly less soluble in water than a gentle cleanser which uses mild detergent.

I think you should use make-up remover at night with a gentle cleanser to remove sunscreen and a gentle cleanser alone in the morning to refresh yourself.

MAC cleanse-off is very good, you can stick to it as a make-up remover and sunscreen remover.

Maybe emulsify is the wrong word. I apply the oil to the skin, gentle massage it, then splash a little water and it gets slightly milky, then it rinses clean.

Would you recommend wiping a Toner to remove residue after the Cleansing Oil, or are you adamant about a gentle cleanser?

[Sorry to keep coming back with more questions, but I'm a sponge for all this great information!]

free skin care · Tue May 06, 2008 5:37 pm

Maybe emulsify is the wrong word. I apply the oil to the skin, gentle massage it, then splash a little water and it gets slightly milky, then it rinses clean.

Would you recommend wiping a Toner to remove residue after the Cleansing Oil, or are you adamant about a gentle cleanser?

[Sorry to keep coming back with more questions, but I'm a sponge for all this great information!]

------------------------------------------------------------

I can understand, because I had severe acnes for ten years.

Milky means the make-up remover emulsifies into some droplets in the water. This is exactly the evidence that this make-up remover is water-insoluble, or it will be clear. The droplets are reflecting lights, so it is white. If it is water soluble, the oil exists as single molecule, or very tiny molecule cluster, and they are so small (at molecular level) that they have nothing to do with visible lights, as a result, the whole liquid is transparent.

Anyway, if something can remove make-up, it is usually more hydrophobic than a common cleanser. So try cleanser in case there might be some residues left.

I think the cleansing ability of toners is usually from alcohol ingredient or alcohol like ingredient and a cotton pad. Some toners should be able to remove tiny residue left from make-up remover, but I am afraid they are too harsh, and most important, it might be too difficult to find out a toner which is strong, gentle, and cheap. I guess instead of throwing money in finding out a new toner (also along with quite a bit of failures), why not use a cheap gentle cleanser to save you some time?

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 2:31 am

I would suggest that you don’t use the same cleanser in the morning as it does sound quite strong and you might be overpowering your skin. Like you I have oily skin which is also very sensitive and for me the best thing that I was ever told to do was on hydration. Not only hydrating from the inside, but also the outside in. Let me explain. Once you have gotten your cleanser of. Fill your basin with luke warm water (so between 94-96). Then leaning over so your face is looking down, place your hands in the water and lift them up and lightly splash your face with the water. Do this 20-25 times. It sounds a lot but you can do it in literally 5 minutes and it prevents your skin (a) from drying out, (b) ensures your cleanser is removed, (c) gives the skin a wonderfully soft feeling and your pores will be oh so clean!

I never really get on with toners, and if your skin is thoroughly cleansed after using the cleanser the argument of toners being needed to remove all residue of the cleansers is already removed. I have heard that they are supposed to rebalance the skin’s ph levels but that can be done otherways.

The other thing I would add though that’s really important for your skin health is sun protection. You really want to find a sun cream that’s high and right for your skin type. Most times you hear people with oily skin say they don’t need sun protection – they are so wrong. You want to protect your skin as much as possible and even if your skin is oily, being in the sun temporarily dries out the oil, but this is only temporary. When this happens, the body then begins making more oil as a result and sometimes in a larger quantity because the former was dried out.

The tips about wheat grass and other supplements would be brilliant for you to try. I try to eat as much alkaline food as I can because they are so good for my skin and seem to have a good effect and lessen the oil production.

Sean

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 8:02 am

About the sun thing, I think you're doing enough with the spf 15 MMU. That won't do anything bad for you and is definitely the most cosmetically elegant light sun protection you can get.

For me I see sun protection as a priority, so MMU wouldn't be enough for me. But I actually look about as good with naturally light skin as opposed to a tan. However, I think that men, practically all men, look a lot better with a slight tan. A tan definitely looks more masculine. At a subconscious level, it gives the impression that a person with some tan works outside and doesn't sit inside all day. Also, some sun exposure isn't as bad for you as it is for me because men in general have thicker skin. (By about 30%, I'm not making this up, this is fact that men have thicker skin than women)

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 9:52 am

I'm curious of how long you've used the MAC cleansing oil. I can't help but wonder if that is the culprit. The OCM works for a lot of people but it's not for everyone. Here's a thread discussing pros and cons of using cleansing oils.....

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=25538&highlight=ocm+ruined+skin

It might be something to consider.

Wed May 07, 2008 11:36 am

Welcome to the boards- you will earn alot here!

My brother is a little older than you (26), but has the same problem with breakouts after shaving. He has great skin normally, but for some reason the act of shaving really reaks havoc on his skin.

He has found something that works wonders and keeps his skin crystal clear! It is Nanocyclic cleanser- it has a huge following and if you do a search in this forum you will find multiple threads on the topic. I am not an expert on this product, but there are two formulas. One for normal to dry (pink packaging) and one for normal to oily (silver packaging).

The concept, from the nanocyclic website, is that is has nano particles of silver in the cleansing bar that act as a bacteria killer. It has all natural ingredients in it like silica, and vitamins and collagen. It is a bar that you "foam up" and leave the foam on your face for a few minutes. The website says it kills all bacteria in 6 minutes. I use it as well and never have to leave it on for 6 minutes. After the alloted time you rinse it off and that is it. You do not need a seaparate exfoliator because it does that as well.

It is worth a try! He loves it and uses the Nano Silver, because it has a higher concentration of the nano silver in it.

I have oily skin and use the pink (normal to dry) version daily and the silver one when I know my skin is a little more challenged. The site even has some smaller bars for $10 each that you can try without a huge investment, I think they are supposed to last about 2 weeks each. Plenty of time to see if you like it.

Other than that I would revisit the products that you use and examine the ingredients- make sure they do not have anything that could irritate your skin. Check for sillicones- some people can use them with no irritation but anything with -cone at the end of it makes my skin go crazy!!!

Hope this helps!

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 5:50 pm

Nimue wrote:

About the sun thing, I think you're doing enough with the spf 15 MMU. That won't do anything bad for you and is definitely the most cosmetically elegant light sun protection you can get.

For me I see sun protection as a priority, so MMU wouldn't be enough for me. But I actually look about as good with naturally light skin as opposed to a tan. However, I think that men, practically all men, look a lot better with a slight tan. A tan definitely looks more masculine. At a subconscious level, it gives the impression that a person with some tan works outside and doesn't sit inside all day. Also, some sun exposure isn't as bad for you as it is for me because men in general have thicker skin. (By about 30%, I'm not making this up, this is fact that men have thicker skin than women)

I agree. The reason I wear the MMU with SPF 15 is because most SPFs and Lotions with SPF break me out. Also, being that I'm a bit of a fitness freak, muscles look more tone with a little tan Smile

. Also, when I go to the beach I wear a high SPF and just take the break out. And you're right. Men do have thicker & generally oilier skin.

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 5:53 pm

CMAYC wrote:

I'm curious of how long you've used the MAC cleansing oil. I can't help but wonder if that is the culprit. The OCM works for a lot of people but it's not for everyone. Here's a thread discussing pros and cons of using cleansing oils.....

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=25538&highlight=ocm+ruined+skin

It might be something to consider.

Actually, I just recently started using the Cleanse off Oil about a week or two ago. In honesty I think it's actually made my skin feel less irritated, but that's something to think about. It could end up being a contraindication later down the road. I think I'm going to get the Clarisonic Brush when I have the money, I've heard great things about it.

free skin care · Wed May 07, 2008 10:49 pm

I wonder if its also the fish oils? I take them because I have eczema and its been rec for people with dry skin. If you want an oil in your diet try plant oils like flax instead. Also maybe look at lessening the animal protein and fat in your diet. Go for leaner meats like chicken or fish.
When I went vegetarian definitely my skin got drier.
I also do think its the MAC cleansing oil. Perhaps go with something a bit more foamy but still gentle. The toner you are using seems to be attracting more moisture to the skin as it does have glycerin in it. I had great success with lavender balancing my skin when I did have oily skin but beware it is photo toxic.

free skin care · Thu May 08, 2008 6:54 am

sakura wrote:

I wonder if its also the fish oils? I take them because I have eczema and its been rec for people with dry skin. If you want an oil in your diet try plant oils like flax instead. Also maybe look at lessening the animal protein and fat in your diet. Go for leaner meats like chicken or fish.
When I went vegetarian definitely my skin got drier.
I also do think its the MAC cleansing oil. Perhaps go with something a bit more foamy but still gentle. The toner you are using seems to be attracting more moisture to the skin as it does have glycerin in it. I had great success with lavender balancing my skin when I did have oily skin but beware it is photo toxic.

I already limit myself to red meat once a week, I eat pretty healthy, Mostly chicken, soy, vegetables, and sushi. I took that realage.com test [actually kind of fun] and it told me I needed Omega-3 in my diet, so I picked up the fish oil. I'm almost out, next I'll try the Flax Instead.

I'm only using the MAC Cleanse off Oil at Night now, just to remove make-up, then I'm continuing with a non-foaming gentle cleanser. I also think that toner is agreeing with my skin.

What do you mean by Lavender can be Photo Toxic?

free skin care · Thu May 08, 2008 7:03 am

So I've begun to adjust my Regimen, with all the help of you wonderful & educated posters!

AM
Cleanse- Repechage Hydra 4 Sesitive Cleanser
Toner- Farmaesthetics Pure Complexion Tonic [alc. free]
Moisture- Repechage Pore Perfecting Serum [light weight hydration for oily skin]
Protect/Cover- MAC MMMU SPF15

PM
to Remove Make-up- MAC Cleanse Off Oil
Cleanse- Repechage Hydra 4 Sensitive Cleanser
Toner- Farmaesthetics Pure Complexion Tonic [alc. free]
Moisture- Repechage Pore Perfecting Serum

I also ordered the Pretika knockoff of the Clarisonic brush, which I'm excited to try. I found the link to it on HSN Special in another thread. I just don't have the extra 200 right now for the Clarisonic, and for $40 bucks it was worth a try. But If I love it, I'm sure I'll eventually want the fancier Clarisonic.

Thanks for all your help!

Thu May 08, 2008 12:30 pm

Hey there i see that you are having skin issues so sorry to see that but i have very tempermental skin and being a woman of color with combination/dry skin i had a serious acne breakout a while back and i on the suggestion of someone i tried a peel called Jessner Peel you can get it on ebay, the great thing also is you have oily skin this works excellent on this type of skin and it gets really deep down and clean out the pores,and you do it like four times for the year to help you maintain your skin check it out o.k.

free skin care · Thu May 08, 2008 5:21 pm

YOu don't consider a lotion, cream or gel? Serum will hydrate your skin, but won't lock your skin's moisture for whole day or whole night， and I doubt how much hydration you can get from that pore perfect serum.

You can also consider using a gel mask or toner+paper mask to hydrate your skin dramatically.

free skin care · Thu May 08, 2008 6:32 pm

januarui wrote:

YOu don't consider a lotion, cream or gel? Serum will hydrate your skin, but won't lock your skin's moisture for whole day or whole night， and I doubt how much hydration you can get from that pore perfect serum.

You can also consider using a gel mask or toner+paper mask to hydrate your skin dramatically.

It's called "Pore Perfecting Serum" but it's actually a gel moisturizer for oily skin. I've used it before, it's not super hydrating but it doesn't break me out. Do you know of any other Lightweight gel-type products that may be more beneficial?

free skin care · Thu May 08, 2008 6:35 pm

islandgal69 wrote:

Hey there i see that you are having skin issues so sorry to see that but i have very tempermental skin and being a woman of color with combination/dry skin i had a serious acne breakout a while back and i on the suggestion of someone i tried a peel called Jessner Peel you can get it on ebay, the great thing also is you have oily skin this works excellent on this type of skin and it gets really deep down and clean out the pores,and you do it like four times for the year to help you maintain your skin check it out o.k.

I've heard alot of good things about Jessner Peels. Do you recommend any particular brand? I've been wanting to order the Professional Bluberry Jessner from CosMedix, but It's hard to get ahold of because CosMedix has a minimum on professional orders. :/

Thanks so much!

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