For Vitamin C Serum DIYers
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Tue Mar 16, 2010 1:53 pm

Hi sister sweets, Kassy, rileygirl ,

Have a question about the "Kassy's15% Vitamin C, E + FA Serum with Jojoba" Which following Vitamin E oil should I buy?

dl-alpha tocopheryl acetate or
d-alpha tocopheryl acetate

Thank you very much for helping Smile

free skin care · Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:19 pm

Not any of the 3 you mentioned but reposting this from a different thread, personally I prefer the natural Vitamin E over the Synthetic. Smile

I am reposting this from earlier in the thread as these are the forms of Vitamin E sold speciffically for use in making your own cosmetics, these aren't the only possibilities as many use oils from the health food store or gel-caps without fillers!

HTH
DM:)

DarkMoon wrote:
Sorry for the cut and paste job but this may explain the different forms of Vitamin E

From:
http://www.makingcosmetics.com

Vitamin E d-alpha tocopherol
Description: Natural origin, contains low quantities of other vegetable oil constituents due to the raw materials or natural antioxidants. Clear viscous brown liquid, faint odor. Soluble in alcohol & oil, water insoluble. Activity 750 IU per 1 g solution (about 1 ml). CAS# 59-02-9.

INCI Name: Alpha tocopherol.

Properties: In products: active especially in cosmetic products but less on the skin (less stable than synthetic dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate), ideal to stabilize oils and fats in products (prevents rancidity). On the skin: antioxidant (protects from damages by reactive oxygen radicals & UV rays), moisturizing & antiaging effect (improves skin surface relief), soothing & antiinflammatory properties, promotes epithelisation & enzyme activity.

Use: 0.5-2.5% final concentration for skin effects, 0.1-0.5% for stabilizing oils in products.

Application: All kinds of skin care products,

Vitamin E (dl-alpha tocopheryl acetate)

Vitamin E dl-alpha tocopheryl acetate
Description: Water-insoluble vitamin E formed by esterification of acetic acid & tocopherol. Purity >98%. pH 6-8. Activity: 1000 IU per 1 g solution (about 1 ml). Clear viscous yellow liquid, faint odor. Soluble in alcohol & oil, water insoluble. CAS# 58-95-7.

INCI Name: Tocopheryl acetate.

Properties: On the skin: provides antioxidant activity only on the skin (tissue esterases need first to cleave off acetate to form active vitamin E), potent antioxidant (protects from damages by reactive oxygen radicals & UV rays), increases SPF, moisturizing & antiaging effect (improves skin surface relief), soothing & anti-inflammatory properties, promotes epithelisation & enzyme activity (faster wound healing).

Use: Add to to water phase. Typical use level 1-10%.

Application: All kinds of skin care products including sun care & makeup

Vitamin E d-alpha tocopherol Is unadulterated yet less stable according to what I am reading.

You can read more on the website

HTH
DM

Hope you like it!

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:09 am

Kassy_A wrote:

Skippie wrote:

Quote:

1oz 15%, C, E + Ferulic

Will last 8 weeks or so.. It is very stable,
(The vit E, SKB + FA all make it very stable!)

What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)

Kassy,

Do you think it would be ok if I added some Phloretin to your recipe?

Thanks.

You could add the 'phloretin' to just about any simple water based L-AA serum at a 2% concentration...

Why not follow Skinceuticals lead, and make yourself a DIY copycat version... Very Happy

- 2% Phloretin
- .5% Ferulic Acid
- 10% L-Ascorbic Acid
- 85% Distilled Water
- The remainder is a combination of Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol Denatured, Butylene Glycol and Triethyl Citrate.

Actually Skinceutical's has more than 10% each of the DG and AD, but for doing this fresh at home, I don't see any reason why the harsher chemical agents can't be cut down.

If I were making this I would use just enough butylene glycol to get the job done, a little vodka and citric acid. (Triethyl Citrate is an ester of Citric Acid.) In Skinceutical's formulation I have no doubt the CA is utilized to bring the pH down to probably 2.5

Thanks Kassy - I actually have all the ingredients in Skinceutical's product, because I had thought I would try to replicate it. But then I decided it would be easier to follow your recipe. Now that you've given me percentages, I think I might just be able to manage it. And it would be a shame not to use the ingredients I bought considering I have very large bottles of them. Thanks again - your help is always appreciated.

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 8:41 am

Wonderful, Skippie! Please post your results. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:28 pm

Are the C-Serums everyone is making sticky? As posted before, the C-Serum I purchased is sticky. Would there be something to take the sticky away? I want to apply daily, but it doesnt work with my make-up. Bad Grin

Thanks in advance for your response.

Wed Mar 17, 2010 3:37 pm

Thank you DarkMoon Smile

I will go for the natural unadulterated one also, the d-alpha tocopherol.

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:44 pm

katewilson wrote:

Thank you DarkMoon Smile

I will go for the natural unadulterated one also, the d-alpha tocopherol.

I am glad it was helpful. Smile

Enjoy!

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:51 pm

Bippie wrote:

Are the C-Serums everyone is making sticky? As posted before, the C-Serum I purchased is sticky. Would there be something to take the sticky away? I want to apply daily, but it doesnt work with my make-up. Bad Grin

Thanks in advance for your response.

Sorry, I just looked at the ingredients you posted along with your description of it being like water, I can't say what is making it sticky but you could try a few drops of glycerin and also one gel cap (pure) of vitamin E to make it more emollient on your skin. Smile

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 5:58 pm

katewilson wrote:

Thank you DarkMoon Smile

I will go for the natural unadulterated one also, the d-alpha tocopherol.

Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.

free skin care · Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:43 pm

Tonia wrote:

Wonderful, Skippie! Please post your results. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

I'll be sure to report back, Tonia.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 11:08 am

sister sweets wrote:

Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.

Thanks sister, I guess I should order from Personal Formulator just that E oil. I am trying to follow Kassy's recipe perfectly since I am a first timer Smile

One more question: which version of C serum is suggested to use with the AAL treatment (Anti_Aging Light)? the water or oil soluble? ( LAA or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?), I forgot the right answer of what I read. Thanks in advance!

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 12:15 pm

katewilson wrote:

sister sweets wrote:

Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.

Thanks sister, I guess I should order from Personal Formulator just that E oil. I am trying to follow Kassy's recipe perfectly since I am a first timer Smile

One more question: which version of C serum is suggested to use with the AAL treatment (Anti_Aging Light)? the water or oil soluble? ( LAA or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?), I forgot the right answer of what I read. Thanks in advance!

You don't want to use anything totally oil based with any LED.. Also be sure whatever C serum you apply before LED has absorbed 30 minutes, then just give your face a quick rinse with just a bit of water which will remove any lingering oil/film.

You only really need 1/8th tsp (per oz) of any oil of your choice that has a high vitamin E content.. (I just use rosehip, macadamia, avocado or palm oil these days).. As Sis mentioned, the vitamin E oil from TPF is pretty good).... Also, reduce the Ferulic Acid to 1/8th tsp. (I'm not sure why the recipe is reading 1/4 tsp.) Also, on the subject of FA, I don't know why some folks are having trouble solubizing it.. Not sure what they expect, but when you put it in a little glass, then pour a bit of vodka on it, you should be looking at a yellowish, opaque liquid at that point. Then just proceed with the rest.

Also, for anybody who doesn't have or want to use SKB, aloe gel works nicely instead. Either of these serve the purpose to *emulsify* the oil/water phases for me... For those who have polysorbate 80 or propylene glycol, you can certainly use that. (I just prefer to keep all chemicals to a minimum whenever possible.)

1oz 15% Vitamin C Serum (3/18/10)

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
2 tsp Distilled H20
1 tsp Jojoba Oil
1 tsp SKB (Don't use more than 1 tsp, it's too tacky!)
1 tsp Aloe Vera Gel (or just use 2 aloe and leave out the SKB)
1/8th tsp Vitamin E
1/8th tsp Ferulic Acid
1/2 tsp vodka

Use 2 shot glasses;

Glass 1:

Put in the L-AA, pour slightly warmed H20 over it, stir, and proceed with the rest of recipe. (Don't use water that is too hot or too cold.. about 80ish degrees is perfect.)

Glass 2:

Put in the FA, pour room temp vodka over it, stir. Now add in and stir the remainder of the ingredients one at a time, in this order; SKB and/or Aloe, Jojoba + Vitamin E.

Once the L-AA has completely dissolved in the H20, slowly incorporate the contents of both glasses together in another (larger) glass. Mix all very well, then put in your dispensing bottle. (Anything that occludes light is good, and pump bottles are best to keep oxygen to a minimum.)

For those who want to make 2oz and use it head to toe just double the ingredients... I don't refrigerate mine and it has never reached the 2nd stage of oxidation (yellowing), but for those who don't think they'll use it within 2 months, you can add .5% of Optiphen preservative to it, which will further preserve it. (Add this to the water/L-AA glass.)

This is a very simple and effective DIY serum. For those with a bit more DIY experience, you can easily formulate this with THDA which would be added to the oil phase. Just decrease the L-AA to 10%, and add 7% (2 ml) of THDA, and add a bit more 'oil' and decrease the water by the same amount.

Thu Mar 18, 2010 1:43 pm

That's great, thanks for the complete info Kassy_A, I really appreciate it.

which Aloe Vera Gel is better for this recipe:
order from website or store or live plants from my back yard ?

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:04 pm

Hi everyone,

is vodka ok to use on the skin ?

Jackie xx

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:14 pm

katewilson wrote:

That's great, thanks for the complete info Kassy_A, I really appreciate it.

which Aloe Vera Gel is better for this recipe:
order from website or store or live plants from my back yard ?

That choice is completely up to the DIYer, but here's my take.

I use fresh 'aloe' gel that I make myself..

Here's a how to;

http://www.ehow.com/how_2154587_make-aloe-vera-gel.html

I preserve mine with 10% citric acid... In the C serum, the vitamin E + C help to preserve it further.

There are so many varieties of aloe gel on the market, but the DIY venues have the ones that are the *purest* IMHO. Last time I checked (which was quite a while ago), GOW (Garden of Wisdom) had the nicest one.

I do so much on my own these days, that I forget not everybody does likewise. Thanks for bringing this up... Very Happy

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:16 pm

Jackie284 wrote:

Hi everyone,

is vodka ok to use on the skin ?

Jackie xx

Hasn't hurt my old hyde either topically or internally... Laughing

As with anything in life, moderation is the key... Wink

Thu Mar 18, 2010 2:59 pm

Kassy_A, Thank you sooooo much for everything !!! Smile

I am so exited now, I've got all the info and ready to order everything today ( C serum, green-tea pre_led serum, AAL).

Big thanks to all the girls here in EDS that helped me with all my questions. I learned so much from all of you by just reading the posts and expertise, it indeed guided me to the right path.

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:06 pm

Thanx Kassy I've got so much aloe vera growing and I didn't know it could be kept in the fridge for 3 months. So are you saying that you use 10% citric acid instead of the vit c and e capsules they talk about when mixing it?

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:36 pm

Mishey wrote:

Thanx Kassy I've got so much aloe vera growing and I didn't know it could be kept in the fridge for 3 months. So are you saying that you use 10% citric acid instead of the vit c and e capsules they talk about when mixing it?

Mishey,

Citric acid is sold as a ph adjuster and a mild preservative, it would prevent the aloe from going off quickly, it's used in this way in food processing. You wouldn't replace LAA in a C serum with citric acid, as it doesn't have the same antioxidant properties as the LAA.

HTH

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:41 pm

DarkMoon I realise Kassy is talking about putting the aloe into the C serum, but in the link she gave they say to mix the aloe gel with a vit C tab and an E capsule. So I'm just asking if she's omitted the C and E capsules for the citric acid as the preservative.

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:46 pm

Mishey wrote:

DarkMoon I realise Kassy is talking about putting the aloe into the C serum, but in the link she gave they say to mix the aloe gel with a vit C tab and an E capsule. So I'm just asking if she's omitted the C and E capsules for the citric acid as the preservative.

Got you, I don't have that answer for her way of making her recipe, I am guessing that the citric acid in the aloe may be enough to keep it fresh while refrigerated for a period?

free skin care · Thu Mar 18, 2010 5:54 pm

Here is another online method for making your own aloe vera gel. It mentions using citric acid powder (or a Vitamin C tablet) and Vitamin E or even grapefruit seed extract.

http://herbs.lovetoknow.com/How_to_Make_Your_Own_Aloe_Vera_Gel

free skin care · Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:23 am

Hi Kassy,

I love reading your every single post of making serum. This time, I learned that I'd use rosehip oil & aloe vera gel.

Great!

free skin care · Fri Mar 19, 2010 9:50 am

DarkMoon wrote:

Mishey wrote:

DarkMoon I realise Kassy is talking about putting the aloe into the C serum, but in the link she gave they say to mix the aloe gel with a vit C tab and an E capsule. So I'm just asking if she's omitted the C and E capsules for the citric acid as the preservative.

Got you, I don't have that answer for her way of making her recipe, I am guessing that the citric acid in the aloe may be enough to keep it fresh while refrigerated for a period?

Yes, this is exactly right. When it comes to making fresh aloe vera gel/juice, I never make more than say a cup, which I will either use or toss after about a month. (Fresh aloe can get a really nasty smell, which is one of the reasons for the harsh chemicals used to preserve it in a cheap drugstore product.)

The 'citric acid' and refrigeration are enough to keep it fresh for my purposes, and I always formulate it with vitamins C + E which further protects it in my DIY serum/cream.

Just a couple of notes for anybody who is going to make this fresh..

- Cut off the end of the leaf and stand it upright for a few minutes to let the nasty, foul liquid drain out. (Then just the lovely gel will remain.)

- Use the largest leaf, and the one that's closest to the ground.

- Don't over water your plants! Once or twice a month is adequate.

ETA: Mishey, not sure I answered your question clearly... Yes, I omit the C + E, and only use the citric acid + refrigeration. Once I'm ready to incorporate it into a DIY product, then I add vitamins C + E to that. (Also, the vitamin C + E components I use will depend on the other actives I'm putting in the product.. It can easily be a C-ester for the "C" and simply an oil that contains a high quantity of vitamin "E" for that part.

free skin care · Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:07 am

BUMP; Just trying to flip this wretched page 48.. (Keep getting "the topic doesn't exist")

Kassy_A wrote:

DarkMoon wrote:

Mishey wrote:

DarkMoon I realise Kassy is talking about putting the aloe into the C serum, but in the link she gave they say to mix the aloe gel with a vit C tab and an E capsule. So I'm just asking if she's omitted the C and E capsules for the citric acid as the preservative.

Got you, I don't have that answer for her way of making her recipe, I am guessing that the citric acid in the aloe may be enough to keep it fresh while refrigerated for a period?

Yes, this is exactly right. When it comes to making fresh aloe vera gel/juice, I never make more than say a cup, which I will either use or toss after about a month. (Fresh aloe can get a really nasty smell, which is one of the reasons for the harsh chemicals used to preserve it in a cheap drugstore product.)

The 'citric acid' and refrigeration are enough to keep it fresh for my purposes, and I always formulate it with vitamins C + E which further protects it in my DIY serum/cream.

Just a couple of notes for anybody who is going to make this fresh..

- Cut off the end of the leaf and stand it upright for a few minutes to let the nasty, foul liquid drain out. (Then just the lovely gel will remain.)

- Use the largest leaf, and the one that's closest to the ground.

- Don't over water your plants! Once or twice a month is adequate.

ETA: Mishey, not sure I answered your question clearly... Yes, I omit the C + E, and only use the citric acid + refrigeration. Once I'm ready to incorporate it into a DIY product, then I add vitamins C + E to that. (Also, the vitamin C + E components I use will depend on the other actives I'm putting in the product.. It can easily be a C-ester for the "C" and simply an oil that contains a high quantity of vitamin "E" for that part.

Yay, it worked... Dancing

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