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For Vitamin C Serum DIYers
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Alley
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 6:41 am      Reply with quote
damia wrote:
i just made a fresh batch of aa

1 3/4 tsp of dist. h20
1/2 tsp of aa
a little less than 1/4 tsp of glycerin

this time it seems my face goes a little chalky after application, its hard to explain, sorta dry with a whitish tint, and i have broken out more than usual.. more h20? i have no idea whats going wrong.. any ideas would be appreciated


damia my math skills are brutal but I think you are around 25% LAA which would be a bit high. I would add more water. The other problem may be that the LAA was not fully dissolved before you added the glycerin.
HTH

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damia
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 8:07 am      Reply with quote
thanks alley,

i thought that might be it...i'll give it a try...everyone is so great here! thank you for the support everyone, thousands of dollars are being saved every month, and this website has alot to do with it!
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Thu Sep 24, 2009 11:02 am      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
damia wrote:
i just made a fresh batch of aa

1 3/4 tsp of dist. h20
1/2 tsp of aa
a little less than 1/4 tsp of glycerin

this time it seems my face goes a little chalky after application, its hard to explain, sorta dry with a whitish tint, and i have broken out more than usual.. more h20? i have no idea whats going wrong.. any ideas would be appreciated


damia my math skills are brutal but I think you are around 25% LAA which would be a bit high. I would add more water. The other problem may be that the LAA was not fully dissolved before you added the glycerin.
HTH


I think you should cut the HA down to about a 1/4 tsp and add more H20 for a total of 4.5 tsp
damia
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 7:57 am      Reply with quote
Quote:
damia wrote:
hey girls this is my first post...i love this site.

i recently made my first diy vitamin c serum using
1/2 teaspoon l ascorbic
1 3/4 teaspoon h2o
1/4 teaspoon veg. glycerin

i totally love it, though when i used it the next morning, some crystals were on the bottom of the jar.

my question is about percentages. i have looked and looked on line and everyone has a different recipe. i really need a confirmed 20% vitamin c serum using just the three above ingredients. any help would be so appreciated. you guys are totally awesome!
damia


Quote:
Welcome damia. According to my math (which is horrible ) you have a 20% serum already. 2 tsp = 10 mls so 20% of that would be 2 mls = 1/2 tsp LAA. Hopefully one of the smart kids aka Kassy will see this any double check my math skills or lack there of.



Quote:
I think you should cut the HA down to about a 1/4 tsp and add more H20 for a total of 4.5 tsp


ok girls, now im slightly confused... i remade my batch and used

2 teaspoons of distilled h2o,
1/2 tsp. of aa..
1/8th glycerin

it did not leave a chalky residue, still slightly stung and is definitely better than last batch...

is this a 20% serum? I am hoping it is at least 15%...
Alley
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 8:01 am      Reply with quote
damia you might be just a hair over 20% which is okay.

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kaistenolee
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Fri Sep 25, 2009 11:31 pm      Reply with quote
Hello Everyone,

I am going to share something how Vitamin C helps for skin.

Vitamin C is a wonderful skin-care ingredient, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is a water-soluble derivative of vitamin C rapidly gaining popularity in skin care. Vitamin C plays a vital role in skin repair. When your skin is injured, its Vitamin C content is used up rapidly in the scavenging of free radicals, and in synthesizing collagen to speed healing.

Vitamin C stimulates collagen synthesis and acts as an anti-oxidant, neutralizing free radicals. Vitamin C regenerates vitamin E and enables vitamin E to provide sustained antioxidant protection in the skin’s elastin fibers.

L-ascorbic acid is the ‘natural’ form of vitamin C. If L-ascorbic acid is fresh and properly stored, it will work well for those without sensitive skin. Vitamin C is an important skin care ingredient; its derivatives do a better job in some situations. They tend to be more stable, more affordable and less irritating.
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Sat Sep 26, 2009 8:15 am      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
Alley wrote:
ace I believe you could use either.

I am not familiar with the c-serum recipe that uses glycerin would love to see it.



Here's one for 1oz @ 15% concentration;

1 tsp LAA
3 tsp distilled water
2 tsp glycerin

Dissolve the LAA into the water stirring frequently (can take up to 45 minutes!). Then add the glycerin.. Stir well and put in dark dropper bottle. Keep in fridge.

If you add a few drops of vitamin E oil (to the glycerin prior to mixing together), it will be a little more stable, and also work synergistically with the C.. Also, halving the recipe to 1/2oz will assure it remains stable till used up.


Hi Kassy,

After reading the whole thread, I would like to try this recipe. Because it is my first time to DIY Vit C serum, I want to make a simple one!

I would like to buy those ingredients from making cosmetics.com. But one thing I want to know is , which Vitamin E should I buy? Because there's are two Vitamin E to choose.

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Antioxidants/Vitamin-E-d-alpha-tocopherol--p189.html

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Antioxidants/Vitamin-E-dl-alpha-tocopheryl-acetate--p190.html

And I would like to confirm, How many teaspoon should I add for Vitamin E?

Also, Anyone has DIY hyaluronic acid? If I want to make a HA which likes the PSF one, using this http://www.makingcosmetics.com/Regenerating-amp-Soothing-Agents/Hyaluronic-Acid-p81.html
Should I just put 1 teaspoon HA then add 10 teaspoon or 100 teaspoon distilled water?

Would very appreciate someone can help me! Thx alot!

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LAT
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Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:45 am      Reply with quote
Hi carforum

I can't help you with the vitamin e question and I don't know whats in the psf HA serum but I get my HA powder from bulkactives and add 1 1/2 tbls. distilled water to 1/8 tsp. HA powder. I make a small batch because I don't use any preservative.
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Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:36 am      Reply with quote
Careforum,
From first link:

Description: Natural origin, contains low quantities of other vegetable oil constituents due to the raw materials or natural antioxidants. Clear viscous brown liquid, faint odor. Soluble in alcohol & oil, water insoluble. Activity 750 IU per 1 g solution (about 1 ml). CAS# 59-02-9.

INCI Name: Alpha tocopherol.

Properties: In products: active especially in cosmetic products but less on the skin (less stable than synthetic dl-alpha-tocopheryl acetate), ideal to stabilize oils and fats in products (prevents rancidity). On the skin: antioxidant (protects from damages by reactive oxygen radicals & UV rays), moisturizing & antiaging effect (improves skin surface relief), soothing & antiinflammatory properties, promotes epithelisation & enzyme activity.

Use: 0.5-2.5% final concentration for skin effects, 0.1-0.5% for stabilizing oils in products.

Application: All kinds of skin care products, sun care products, makeup products, hair after-treatments preperations.

More Information:  MSDS,  Fact Sheet,  Sample Recipe

From second link:

Description: Water-insoluble vitamin E formed by esterification of acetic acid & tocopherol. Purity >98%. pH 6-8. Activity: 1000 IU per 1 g solution (about 1 ml). Clear viscous yellow liquid, faint odor. Soluble in alcohol & oil, water insoluble. CAS# 58-95-7.

INCI Name: Tocopheryl acetate.

Properties: On the skin: provides antioxidant activity only on the skin (tissue esterases need first to cleave off acetate to form active vitamin E), potent antioxidant (protects from damages by reactive oxygen radicals & UV rays), increases SPF, moisturizing & antiaging effect (improves skin surface relief), soothing & anti-inflammatory properties, promotes epithelisation & enzyme activity (faster wound healing).

Use: Add to to water phase. Typical use level 1-10%.

Application: All kinds of skin care products including sun care & makeup products.

It seems as though the first type is less refined and deeper in color, I am pretty sure people have used either type, I know most of the vitamin E I have used is clear, this makes it easier to tell if the vitamin C has oxidized. Someone may very well disagree I think you could use either as long as you make small batches, or if you have a good nose you can tell if it goes off.

HTH
DM

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DarkMoon
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Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:42 am      Reply with quote
Careforum,

Someone with much better math skills will have to tell you how each would effect the PH!

DM

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Tue Sep 29, 2009 11:57 am      Reply with quote
Does anyone know if the oil form of Vit C also oxidizes and changes color over time? Thanks!

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Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:04 pm      Reply with quote
fat_swan wrote:
Does anyone know if the oil form of Vit C also oxidizes and changes color over time? Thanks!


I am not sure what you are referring to - can you attach a link to the product you are thinking of?

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DarkMoon
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Tue Sep 29, 2009 12:13 pm      Reply with quote
FatSwan,
Alley ,
I am assuming what FatSwan is referring to is oil soluble vitamin C.
It is much more stable, the big question is what to mix it in as a base for the recipe...
there is a 7 page thread on that topic, read with care LOL It is a bit confusing, but here it is:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?tid=35528

HTH
DM

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 12:09 am      Reply with quote
Hi Darkmoon and Alley,

I was referring to Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (I believe they're the same thing).

I did read the Anhydrous C thread, but was under impression that was talking more about L Ascorbic Acid instead of the oil soluble C.

I was just planning to mix it with a bit of Jojoba and Macadamia, as I was unaware of any problems with this type of vitamin C, stability or otherwise. Am I doing something wrong? Please help. Thanks.

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 2:52 am      Reply with quote
fat_swan wrote:
I was just planning to mix it with a bit of Jojoba and Macadamia, as I was unaware of any problems with this type of vitamin C, stability or otherwise. Am I doing something wrong? Please help. Thanks.


No, it will be perfectly fine. I mix mine with Pomegranate Oil.

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:31 am      Reply with quote
FatSwan,

The thread does get confusing, the idea was to incorporate both water and oil soluble Vitamin C in one emulsion. That may have gotten lost in the tech aspect.
I asked about just using Jojoba oil for the oil soluble C Kelilu was the only one who really responded.
The reason for trying to mix both types is they are supposed to work more efficiently together. My head started reeling from all the info, so I may just mix water soluble per use and the oil soluable with Jojoba. Then use one then after absorbed the other can go on. I am still pondering all of this.

DM

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:44 am      Reply with quote
Hi,
I should say that with the oil soluble C I believe Kelilu is quite correct, it is the very stable form and I believe it would work in any good oil or mix. Sorry I did not intend to confuse things for you!

DM

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 8:08 am      Reply with quote
I have been using my DIY Vit C serum every morning. Yesterday Dr. Oz, answering question on skin ,mentioned the basics are Vit. A, C, E and his advice is to use them at night not morning because Vit. C will oxidize with sun light.
I wanted to ask if any of you use C serum at night.
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Wed Sep 30, 2009 9:58 am      Reply with quote
Bellezza wrote:
I have been using my DIY Vit C serum every morning. Yesterday Dr. Oz, answering question on skin ,mentioned the basics are Vit. A, C, E and his advice is to use them at night not morning because Vit. C will oxidize with sun light.
I wanted to ask if any of you use C serum at night.


I have read and heard the same, I do use it in the PM especially since I live where the sun shines pretty much everyday!

HTH
DM

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 10:57 am      Reply with quote
I also use it in the PM (2 hours before Taz). The reason I use in the evening is that I am in hurry in the morning and don't have time to wait for 20-30 minutes before applying sunscreen.
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Wed Sep 30, 2009 4:11 pm      Reply with quote
The am or pm use of Vitamin C is yet another contentious issue - there are proponents for both sides of the argument.

I use it in the am because I use Copper Peptides at night, and they have to be used 24 hours apart. Plus, Vitamin C is supposed to help with sun protection - but, as usual, who really knows what's best?

I do the same as Dark Moon - I apply a LAA serum followed by an oil soluble C serum - just hedging my bets!

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 5:01 pm      Reply with quote
Keliu,
My main reason for using the C's in the PM is time constraints in the AM right now. I just manage my homemade oil mix, let that absorb and get my MMU on. As you know that is a physical sunscreen, and in the constant sunshine in sub-tropic climate I have to use it! I have more time to apply it all at night, just my life at this time.
Confused
DM

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Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:36 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
damia you might be just a hair over 20% which is okay.


How do you figure out the % vit c of the serum? Is it based on volume or weight of actives?

So far I've been using 1/4 tsp (1.25ml) of L-AA crystals, 1 tsp (5ml) of de-ionized water and 1/2 tsp (2.5ml) of glycerine.

Not sure what the concentration would be...going by volume comes to around 14% but going by weight is approx 20%.

water = 1g/ml
l-aa = 1.65g/ml
glycerine = 1.26g/ml

Dee
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Wed Sep 30, 2009 6:59 pm      Reply with quote
Hi,
My math skills on this STINK but here is a link to a 10% C serum, I may very well be incorrect but I would guess doubling the amount of C should give you a 20% serum:
http://www.ehow.com/iphone/#article_4844882

If not you may find answers at:
http://www.makingcosmetics.com

if it is not listed on the site their CS is very willing to help if you call.

HTH
DM

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Thu Oct 01, 2009 6:40 am      Reply with quote
Thanks Darkmoon, but the first link didn't work for some reason.

Dee
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