Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

free skin care · Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:21 am

KiraB wrote:

Kassy - I have ordered most of the items for the wonderful cream recipe Smile

, but have a question - can I leave out the green tea extract, algae extract, and lactic acid? I still have to order the algae extract and the lactic acid. I was wondering about the green tea extract, somewhere I read (in this forum) not to use green tea extract and vitamin C together in the Vitamin C Serums. (I can't remember exactly why) But what if you use a Vitamin C Serum wait 15 to 30 minutes then apply a cream with Green Tea Extract in it on top, could this cause a problem with the effective-ness of the C Serum?

Thanks!!

Both Magnesium and Phosphate components are not organic. It does not have the biochemical characteristics to become a cell poisoning and cell destroying oxidized lipid. The 'salts' I believe are what makes the difference.

Also MAP, unlike L-AA, isn't converted into Ascorbic Acid until it has penetrated the cells. Hence, no acid/metal reaction. There are also other ingredients which 'bind to metals' in the recipe/base cream, which would prevent the reaction anyway..

You may leave the 3 ingredients you don't have out, and replace the volume with SKB or more base. It won't be quite as nice though!

Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:26 am

Hi just came back from lunch.
Thanks Kira and Alley for your responses.

This is not an abreviation but what is Ferulic acid, AHA, DMAE? What is their purpose?

I have the website list that shows where to buy stuff.

Thanks again
Steph
P.s. Can you explain how to put the prior comment in the box in the new comment.

free skin care · Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:35 am

Alley wrote:

I use my cloth in the shower - I don't think there is a wrong way to do it. I believe Kassy gave some instruction but I can't find it now Confused

Which acronyms - I will try to help. Frankly I struggle with that also. Embarassed

MICROFIBER CLOTH USE/CARE:

Here's the lowdown, as I know it (and do it.)

- Personally, I use it on a clean face.. I don't wear makeup, so this is a cinch for me.. BUT, if I did wear makeup daily, I would first use a cleanser to get it off, and then use the microfiber cloth as a final step.

- Saturate the cloth with very hot water, and then wring out well.. (It does it's best work, when just hot and damp.

- Wrap it around your hand taughtly, (re wrapping as necessary), and cover your entire face, neck + decollete in small, firm, circular motions.

- Usually I only launder it in the washing machine, after 2 or 3 days of use.. After each use, I rinse it thoroughly, then let it soak in an anti-bacterial hot water soak for 5 minutes (dial), then rinse well and let air dry. (If you don't use it to remove makeup, this will suffice!)

- When you want to put it in the washing machine, just remember to NOT use bleach or fabric softener.. Allowing to air dry, will keep it in the best shape.

FREQUENTLY USED ACRONYMS:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=3228

ALL OF THE DIY RECIPE'S POSTED ON EDS, AND MORE:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

And last but not least, 3 cheers for "havana8" for the fabulous job she has done keeping everything so well organized, and easy to find..

Welcome to the jungle 'KiraB'.. Very Happy

Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:48 am

thanks Kassy!! Very Happy

I knew you would help me understand - now to go and order the rest!!

Steph23, there are some really smart people here that can explain. But here's what I found on line:

Ferulic acid is commonly used in the DIY C+E Ferulic serum (commonly known as skinceuticals). The powder provides broad spectrum sun damage and antioxidant protection. It is also used for to skin lightening and brightening formulas -from bulkactives

Alpha hydroxy acids have been shown to promote smoother, younger looking skin by increasing the rate of cell renewal, improving skin texture and tone. -from bulkactives

DMAE improves the firmness of the skin and helps reduce the visual appearance of sagging skin (cutis laxa). It is an amine-based alcohol, a precursor to the neurotransmitter acetylcholine, present in nerve tissue in small amounts and more abundant in fish. DMAE acts as a free radical scavenger due to the high electron content of its nitrogen atom. Once phosphorylated, DMAE is incorporated into the membrane of cells, protecting against the cell membrane protein cross-linking. In addition, DMAE is an immediate precursor to choline, which is involved in cell membrane biosynthesis.
--from skinactives

*ETA: a tip -I print out anything and everything I can from the DIY recipes to online articles and keep all this in a 3ring binder.

free skin care · Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:56 am

Steph23 wrote:

Hi just came back from lunch.
Thanks Kira and Alley for your responses.

This is not an abreviation but what is Ferulic acid, AHA, DMAE? What is their purpose?

I have the website list that shows where to buy stuff.

Thanks again
Steph
P.s. Can you explain how to put the prior comment in the box in the new comment.

in the right hand corner of the post you want to copy click the "quote" button and that will bring you to the posting page with the quote above your soon to be constructed post.

KiraB has stepped up to the plate and answered all your questions.

Kassy - "welcome to the jungle" Laughing

Mon Aug 17, 2009 3:59 pm

Alley, thanks for replying re my Eye Cream. I'll keep you posted should anything miraculous occur Laughing

) I've also meant to try the Gelatin mix, but have only managed one application so far - and I've read you need to do it for 7 days straight, and then 2-3 times a week thereafter...

Also, tried to pm Kassy re my face cream (page 22), but can't seem to get my messages to send (geeze, if I can't get a simple pm to work, lawd know's what I'm doing messin' about with DIY; plus am now feeling like a stalker Embarassed

).

Still scared re HA (and ending up with face 'spackle'... apply to enlarged pores, then sand!), but probably need to delve back through this thread for tips on using SA's version (have vague recollection of it getting a guernsey).
Thanks, again.
Toastie.

free skin care · Mon Aug 17, 2009 8:25 pm

Check your PM's 'cheesetoastie'..

Sorry I missed your post on pg 22.. Sad

Mon Aug 17, 2009 10:34 pm

Thanks, Kassy, got (and replied) to your pm; now just need to get cracking. One last question for everyone:

How do you stop the water and oil mixes that you add to your creams from separating out again? Having a higher cream (and hence emulsifier?) ratio? Lot's of beating? Threats?

(Phew. Might need to invest in a lab coat if this works... and some goggles... that'll teach DH not to take me seriously. Ha!)

free skin care · Mon Aug 17, 2009 11:29 pm

What is it about DHs that they look at you funny and just shake their heads!!

free skin care · Tue Aug 18, 2009 6:49 am

cheesetoastie wrote:

Thanks, Kassy, got (and replied) to your pm; now just need to get cracking. One last question for everyone:

How do you stop the water and oil mixes that you add to your creams from separating out again? Having a higher cream (and hence emulsifier?) ratio? Lot's of beating? Threats?

(Phew. Might need to invest in a lab coat if this works... and some goggles... that'll teach DH not to take me seriously. Ha!)

I bought a handy little mixer for $10 at Amazon - nothing separates once I whip it together Laughing

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001HO8IJ8/ref=ox_ya_oh_product

Tue Aug 18, 2009 8:59 am

sorry - but just one more question.... can I add Butcher's Broom extract to the Eye Cream that Kassy posted with the Firming/Smoothing. Anti-Oxidant Cream?

I really appreciate all the help everyone has given!!

free skin care · Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:06 am

KiraB wrote:

sorry - but just one more question.... can I add Butcher's Broom extract to the Eye Cream that Kassy posted with the Firming/Smoothing. Anti-Oxidant Cream?

I really appreciate all the help everyone has given!!

What I would suggest, rather than incorporating it into the cream, is to put a bit of your cream in the palm of your hand, add 2 drops of BBE to that, and then apply...

If you have no problem with it absorbing, then you can go ahead and add say, 1/4 tsp to a 1oz cream..

BBE has a base of glycerin, which some people find to oily and hard to absorb.. Try a little first the way I suggested and then decide on putting it in your cream.

It's a great thing to use for undereye dark circles, which is the result of weak + leaking cappilaries.. Over time, BB strengthens + heals said caps!

Tue Aug 18, 2009 10:19 am

thank you!! Kassy you have been so much help, thanks - I will try it the way you suggested and let you know how it goes.

Thanks to everyone in this forum - I am learning so much!

free skin care · Tue Aug 18, 2009 11:06 am

What is Butcher Broom Extract?

Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:04 pm

Alley, Kassy had posted

Kassy_A wrote:

Butcher's Broom is nice used as a supplement and/or topically, for any issues concerning venous insufficiency... Typically, the dark circles under the eye, are from pooling of blood caused by leaking and or weak blood vessels..

I would also offer, that since I've incorporated this in serums topically, I've noticed the few broken caps on my cheeks and chin are for the most part now invisible. (This is just one part of a whole regime of skincare though.)

This is the one I'm using now, which is in a base of vegetable glycerin. Many more are available, including 'powdered' form;

http://www.zooscape.com/cgi-bin/maitred/GreenCanyon/questp428454/jornada34866974/viewsubsub100594/viewgroup109064

Here's a little more about it;

http://www.nutrasanus.com/butchers-broom.html

Hope that helps!

In this thread http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=464817#464817. I am trying it to see if it will improve my very dark circles. I have fair thin skin and dark blue/purple under eye circles.

free skin care · Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:09 pm

Alley wrote:

What is Butcher Broom Extract?

DESCRIPTION : Butcher's Broom is an evergreen shrub native to the Mediterranean region and a member of the Lily family. The plant derives its name from the use of the stiff twigs as brushes by butchers for their cutting blocks. The rhizome of this plant has been used since the ancient times of the Greeks for many circulatory disorders. Greek Doctors treated swelling and varicose veins with Butcher's Broom.

PHYSIOLOGY : Butcher's Broom contains saponin glycosides called rusco-genins. Research has shown that these ruscogenins possess vasoconstrictive and anti-inflammatory properties. These active ingredients reduce the fragility and permeability of capillaries and constrict the veins. These plant saponin glycosides are the starter compounds for important steroid compounds in the human body.

ACTIVE PROPERTIES: Butcher's broom extract was found to possess vasoconstrictive and anti-inflammatory properties. The herb is used in European medicine for venous circulatory disorders and hemorrhoidal problems. Many European women use Butcher's Broom to reduce capillary fragility and to help prevent edema in the legs after standing all day. Others have used the herb for varicose veins, particularly during pregnancy.

DIRECTIONS FOR USE : 150 mg./day internal.

TOPICALLY: A few DIY places sell the active.. I just buy the Extract, which has a glycerin base, and use a few drops in this and that..

This is the one I'm using now;

http://www.zooscape.com/cgi-bin/maitred/GreenCanyon/questp428454

Supposedly, these things enhance the effects;

BIO-ENHANCING AGENTS : Bilberry, centella, ginkgo biloba, ginger root, horse chestnut.

Since I started using Butcher's Broom (and Lecithin supplement), my broken caps are paler and my fatty bags have shrunk just a little..(I don't have dark circles, but the BB is excellent for repairing that after consistent use.)

free skin care · Tue Aug 18, 2009 12:12 pm

Kassy and KiraB thank you so much I had never heard of this before today. One more thing to add to my box of magic. Laughing

Wed Aug 19, 2009 2:52 pm

I have to say it's great!! Kassy's Firming/Smoothing/Anti-Oxidant Cream is great. I am home sick today from work - got a head cold and just couldn't shake it, and I needed a bit of rest. The last of the items I needed to make this cream arrived this afternoon and after a very long well needed nap I just could not wait. I got in the kitchen and mixed up a 1/2 batch, then washed my face to tried it out. I LOVE it!! I was to much in a hurry and did not mix each active in one at a time (except for the DMAE and MAP). Nest time I will spend more time and take it slow. In a small jar I put 2 oz. of base cream and added everything (at half the measurement) but the DMAE and MAP, stirred. Then in a shot glass I mixed the 1 tsp of SKB (I should have used 1/2 tsp of SKB) and the DMAE and MAP. I added this to the cream. It was not as thick as the original cream but not overly thin (this could be due to me being in a hurry). Really a good consistency, like a cross between cream and liquid. After I cleaned my face I applied the cream, it tingled/stung a tiny bit on the apples of my cheeks and around my nose (sensitive areas for me). But I have to say it melted into my skin and left me with a slight glow. Love it, now can't wait to reep the benifits of using this over time. Thanks Kassy! Please keep adding cream and serum 'recipes' (can I say that?) - love them!!

PS: If there are spelling errors or you don't understand I can blame the cold meds. Laughing

free skin care · Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:27 pm

Messed up Kassy's 20% Vit C, E, + Ferulic serum Brick wall

I wanted to try out MAP and Kukui Oil because I have pigmentation problems. So I mixed it but could not get the Ferulic to dissolve so I was left with a separated serum that made it down the drain. Then I noticed that there was no vodka in the formulation. It just said to mix the LAA and MAP into the H20 and dissolve and then add the Ferulic. Is this correct or should the Ferulic be dissolved in the vodka

So I went back to the original 15% Vit C, E + Ferulic formulation and added a bit of glycerin and the 5 gtts Kukui Oil and the Vit E. Now it looks too oily Confused

Kassy would this still be OK to use with the AALS or did I ruin it?

free skin care · Wed Aug 19, 2009 7:29 pm

Here is a cut/paste of the formula:

Vitamin C Serum (Just about 20%)

1 tsp LAA
½ tsp MAP
¼ tsp Ferulic Acid
¼ tsp Vitamin E oil (or whatever other oil you use with high E content)
3 tsp H20 (distilled)
1 tsp SKB
½ tsp Glycerin
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
5 gtts Kukui Oil (optional, but supposedly it helps with melasma + hyperpigmentation)

To mix, use 2 shot glasses again;

#1 glass

LAA + MAP stirred into H20, then add Ferulic Acid and stir after the C has dissolved. (It will take about 15 or 20 minutes!) Stir frequently!

#2 glass

Add all other ingredients, stir well. Now add contents together a little at a time, stirring constantly.

Pour into a dark bottle and shake well.

ETA: .. THDA can be substituted for the MAP, but that would need to be added to glass #2 in the oil phase.

free skin care · Thu Aug 20, 2009 6:38 am

milbader wrote:

Messed up Kassy's 20% Vit C, E, + Ferulic serum Brick wall

I wanted to try out MAP and Kukui Oil because I have pigmentation problems. So I mixed it but could not get the Ferulic to dissolve so I was left with a separated serum that made it down the drain. Then I noticed that there was no vodka in the formulation. It just said to mix the LAA and MAP into the H20 and dissolve and then add the Ferulic. Is this correct or should the Ferulic be dissolved in the vodka

So I went back to the original 15% Vit C, E + Ferulic formulation and added a bit of glycerin and the 5 gtts Kukui Oil and the Vit E. Now it looks too oily Confused

Kassy would this still be OK to use with the AALS or did I ruin it?

So when you added the FA to the H2O, LAA & MAP it all separated? Courious because this is the C-serum I plan on making next to mix things up a little. I wonder if we couldn't sub 1/4 tsp of H2O with vodka to help the FA dissolve?

Tue Sep 15, 2009 11:22 pm

Hullo,
Thought it time for an update. A few pages back (pg 22+23), I posted (my) recipies for a DIY face lotion and eye cream. Sadly, the news ain't good Sad

.

I made the face cream as posted (key actives: niacinamide, silymarin, green tea extract), with some tweaking re HA and Vit E addition (and, in a giddy moment of Ponds Institute euphoria, some SA freebie 'melon scent') and happily went about slathering (face, neck, hands and arms) for 2 weeks.

Anyhoo, after a couple of days my facial skin was definitely reddened. Took a couple of days off, and the redness subsided, so the cream was the culprit. I have rosacea across my cheeks and nose, but the redness extended right up to my temples and forehead. Guess, I'll have to make some basic lotions and test each active to out the guilty party. (Also, mysteriously sprouted some new 'age spots' - what the hell? Sad

)

Interestingly, on another post (apologies to poster, as I can't remember which one), a mention was made of The Herbaries warning re niacinamide:
To avoid the hydrolysis of Niacinamide to nicotinic acid, we recommend the pH of the finished formulation be in the range of 5.0 to 7.0. The hydrolysis of Niacinamide to nicotinic acid can result in skin flushing, redness and burning. Please note that Niacinamide added to pure distilled water will have the desired pH of 6.0-7.0.

While I didn't experience any burning, I definitely had redness and flushing. Curiously, I've not seen this warning on any other formulating sites, yet much evidence of people adding it to their formulations without too much grief. Anyhow, I'll also ph test my cream. Sigh.
(I'm hoping the culprit will be the nasty, nasty melon scent Rolling Eyes

) Off to experiment,
Lee

PS. Juries still out on they Eye Serum (with Chrysin, Matrixyl and Argenine - forgive spelling). Has a lovely consistency and doesn't puff my eyes, but no real improvement to date.
PPS. As frustrating as all this is, it's also kind of fun... Laughing

free skin care · Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:21 am

cheesetoastie wrote:

Hullo,
Thought it time for an update. A few pages back (pg 22+23), I posted (my) recipies for a DIY face lotion and eye cream. Sadly, the news ain't good Sad

.

I made the face cream as posted (key actives: niacinamide, silymarin, green tea extract), with some tweaking re HA and Vit E addition (and, in a giddy moment of Ponds Institute euphoria, some SA freebie 'melon scent') and happily went about slathering (face, neck, hands and arms) for 2 weeks.

Anyhoo, after a couple of days my facial skin was definitely reddened. Took a couple of days off, and the redness subsided, so the cream was the culprit. I have rosacea across my cheeks and nose, but the redness extended right up to my temples and forehead. Guess, I'll have to make some basic lotions and test each active to out the guilty party. (Also, mysteriously sprouted some new 'age spots' - what the hell? Sad

)

Interestingly, on another post (apologies to poster, as I can't remember which one), a mention was made of The Herbaries warning re niacinamide:
To avoid the hydrolysis of Niacinamide to nicotinic acid, we recommend the pH of the finished formulation be in the range of 5.0 to 7.0. The hydrolysis of Niacinamide to nicotinic acid can result in skin flushing, redness and burning. Please note that Niacinamide added to pure distilled water will have the desired pH of 6.0-7.0.

While I didn't experience any burning, I definitely had redness and flushing. Curiously, I've not seen this warning on any other formulating sites, yet much evidence of people adding it to their formulations without too much grief. Anyhow, I'll also ph test my cream. Sigh.
(I'm hoping the culprit will be the nasty, nasty melon scent Rolling Eyes

) Off to experiment,
Lee

PS. Juries still out on they Eye Serum (with Chrysin, Matrixyl and Argenine - forgive spelling). Has a lovely consistency and doesn't puff my eyes, but no real improvement to date.
PPS. As frustrating as all this is, it's also kind of fun... Laughing

Be careful there missy and make sure everything in the *kitchen sink* is compatible.. Laughing

What the heck is "silymarin", and what does it do?

Wed Sep 16, 2009 1:58 am

Ah, Silymarin (and the curse of the over-enthusiastic lemming Rolling Eyes

). It's one of the key ingredients in Rosacure:
a topical formulation containing a unique combination of silymarin, antioxidants,
moisturizing ingredients, and a stabilizing oleosome (which) significantly reduced facial redness in patients with newly diagnosed or established rosacea but did not reduce telangiectases http://www.canderm.com/files/Canderm/aRosacure_Dr_Nield_paper.pdf

Skinactives says:Research has shown that silymarin can help the skin recover from damage by UV light and chemical carcinogenics like benzoyl peroxide, immunosupression by UV, inflammation, oxidative stress, and it can even stop non-melanoma skin cancer in some cases.

Also, it was one of the key ingredients (along with MSM) Luckylouie credited with improving her skin dramatically and lessening broken caps significantly.(http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=23992&highlight=perfect+skin)

So, old tomato head here just had to give it a go... although now I've paid a little closer attention to the study above, it did mention one participant suffered increased redness. I'm just a bit desperate - my skin is really a mess. My camera's not working or I'd pm you a photo. It's red, with enlarged pores, broken caps on one cheek, and melasma/age spots starting to appear as skin gets a little clearer. (Along with wrinkles and baggy, dark eyes.)
Back to drawing board.
Lee

Thu Sep 17, 2009 3:13 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

Alley wrote:

Kassy I am patiently awaiting my ferulic acid from bulkactives.com (I am really trying to remember why I didn't order from Skinactives). I have the Vitamin E from Personal Forumlator and the ascorbic acid from skinactives. My goal is a simple stable C+E+Ferulic serum that I can mix up every couple of days or once a week.

If I don't see the ferulic acid by the end of the week I might just place another skinactives order.

I'm sure you'll get it soon!

Okay, I've worked out a simple recipe, for a 1oz 15%, C, E + Ferulic... You can relax and make 1 oz, which will probably last you 8 weeks or so.. It is very stable, and will remain so until it's used up, so no need to worry. (The vit E, SKB + FA all make it very stable!)

What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)

What to do;

- In first shot glass, put 1 tsp C into the 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water. Put on the side, stirring occasionally till FULLY dissolved (This can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour, so have patience.)

- In 2nd shot glass put in 1/2 tsp vodka, and sprinkle the FA in and mix. (Little formulator spatulas are great for this!) When it has dissolved fully, add in the vitamin E + SKB and stir it all up well.

- When the LAA has fully dissolved in the 1st shot glass, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir very well, and carefully pour into your 1oz bottle.

Keeping it in a cool dry, dark place, or fridge will keep it potent + stable!

Hope you like it!

Oh my goodness, I looked everywhere for a simple recipe, and found this. I don't have any skb so I substitued a humectant I did have and it has worked out perfectly. Bless you 10 folds, and everyone else who has contributed to help us less knowledged. Bless you, bless you, bless you!

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