Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
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free skin care · Fri Mar 09, 2012 11:01 am

maryms wrote:

I recently started using the C serum (Kassys recipe) but also a Hyalunic Acid serum with glycerin and vitamin e oil. Now my skin is breaking out and I have a lot of blackheads. Normally I have neither- I take excellent care of my skin. I read another person somewhere had made this comment but I can't find it and don't remember what the replies were. Can someone help me out with this please? All this work but now my skin looks awful. Thanks!!

I'm not sure what your question is.. Laughing

It sounds like you are using the C serum recipe, but didn't stop using your "serum with HA, glycerin and vit e"... Confused

Both would be too much I think..

Also, if you apply too much of any antioxidant serum, and it just sits on your face, chances are it will oxidize there, and definitely cause/look like blackheads... This is why I am very fond of my C serums being watery.. I find 4 or 5 drops will penetrate very quickly and I don't have any negative issues at all..

As I've said ad nauseum; keep your C/antioxidant serums thin and water based, because they are a TREATMENT! Keep the richer, moisturizing products for use separately.. After your "treatment" serums have fully absorbed, then feel free to apply your compatible "feel good" stuff..

Sun Mar 11, 2012 9:47 am

Thanks Kassy - I mine was thicker and had glycerin and e and I was putting a lot on thinking more is better. I really appreciate your help answering mine and others questions. Mary

free skin care · Sun Mar 11, 2012 10:02 am

You're welcome Mary Very Happy

Just go easy on both glycerin and vit E... They are soooo sticky.. ICK!

Thu Mar 29, 2012 11:45 pm

Does anyone know what can be used in place of Wheat Protein. I cant seem to find a supplier in the UK. Thanks for all your recipes its really fantastic.

free skin care · Wed Aug 08, 2012 11:51 am

liezelesterhuysen wrote:

Does anyone know what can be used in place of Wheat Protein. I cant seem to find a supplier in the UK. Thanks for all your recipes its really fantastic.

Just get yourself some Wheat Germ Oil... Buy the smallest size.. It only has a 6 month shelf life after opening (refrigerated). I typically buy 8oz, then toss it after 6 months. It's a highly potent and not so pleasant smelling oil, but it's FABULOUS for the skin.. Highest vit E content of any oil and also has vit A, several B's and a bunch of great skin friendly minerals + proteins.

A little goes a long way!

free skin care · Thu Aug 09, 2012 5:51 pm

liezelesterhuysen wrote:

Does anyone know what can be used in place of Wheat Protein. I cant seem to find a supplier in the UK. Thanks for all your recipes its really fantastic.

http://www.ofasimplenature.webeden.co.uk/#/hydrolysed-wheat/4537200290
HTH!

free skin care · Thu Aug 09, 2012 6:11 pm

fawnie wrote:

liezelesterhuysen wrote:

Does anyone know what can be used in place of Wheat Protein. I cant seem to find a supplier in the UK. Thanks for all your recipes its really fantastic.

http://www.ofasimplenature.webeden.co.uk/#/hydrolysed-wheat/4537200290
HTH!

Just a little food for thought on whether to choose a "hydrolysed" wheat protein product...

The good; most of the nasty smell is removed and another plus is a longer shelf life (up to 12 months refrigerated)

The bad; along with nasty smell, the beneficial amino acids and peptides have been broken down so much, they are rendered useless.. Sad

free skin care · Tue Sep 04, 2012 5:21 pm

Quick & Easy DIY Sunscreen (12oz about SPF 20+)

-1oz beeswax
-2oz coconut oil
-7oz mixed oil (I used almond, grapeseed, red rasberry seed & soybean)
-2oz zinc oxide (do NOT use nano or micronized! ZnO is a physical sunscreen, and not meant to be absorbed.)

In double boiler, melt beeswax, add all other ingredients and warm through and stir well.

Remove from heat and mix thoroughly with your hand mixer, or put in blender..

***Technically ZnO @ 20% is about a SPF of 20. The oils I used also have a natural SPF value, so the finished product is closer to an SPF of 30***

You don't need a preservative for this one (no water Smile

)

free skin care · Sat Sep 08, 2012 5:32 pm

Thanks, Kassy! I thought that the micronized zinc was okay and not a problem for absorption...is this wrong?

Thu Mar 14, 2013 3:45 pm

Please tell me if I can follow your receipe Kassy, without the SKB???

free skin care · Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:35 am

Kassy_A wrote:

Vitamin C Serum (Just about 20%)

1 tsp LAA
½ tsp MAP
¼ tsp Ferulic Acid
¼ tsp Vitamin E oil (or whatever other oil you use with high E content)
3 tsp H20 (distilled)
1 tsp SKB
½ tsp Glycerin
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
5 gtts Kukui Oil (optional, but supposedly it helps with melasma + hyperpigmentation)

To mix, use 2 shot glasses again;

#1 glass

LAA + MAP stirred into H20, then add Ferulic Acid and stir after the C has dissolved. (It will take about 15 or 20 minutes!) Stir frequently!

#2 glass

Add all other ingredients, stir well. Now add contents together a little at a time, stirring constantly.

Pour into a dark bottle and shake well.

ETA: .. THDA can be substituted for the MAP, but that would need to be added to glass #2 in the oil phase.

Can anyone tell me what "MAP" and "THDA" stand for?

free skin care · Fri Mar 29, 2013 4:37 am

Kassy_A wrote:

Vitamin C Serum (Just about 20%)

1 tsp LAA
½ tsp MAP
¼ tsp Ferulic Acid
¼ tsp Vitamin E oil (or whatever other oil you use with high E content)
3 tsp H20 (distilled)
1 tsp SKB
½ tsp Glycerin
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
5 gtts Kukui Oil (optional, but supposedly it helps with melasma + hyperpigmentation)

To mix, use 2 shot glasses again;

#1 glass

LAA + MAP stirred into H20, then add Ferulic Acid and stir after the C has dissolved. (It will take about 15 or 20 minutes!) Stir frequently!

#2 glass

Add all other ingredients, stir well. Now add contents together a little at a time, stirring constantly.

Pour into a dark bottle and shake well.

ETA: .. THDA can be substituted for the MAP, but that would need to be added to glass #2 in the oil phase.

Can anyone tell me what "MAP" and "THDA" stand for?

Fri Mar 29, 2013 7:31 am

gottaHAVEitALL wrote:

Can anyone tell me what "MAP" and "THDA" stand for?

'

MAP = Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (water-soluble vitamin C derivative)
THDA – Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (oil-soluble vitamin C)

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=381459

HTHs!

Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:01 pm

Hello Kassy, I'm new here and have been combing EDS for your CEF + HA Serum recipes for days and I've been in complete awe of your formulations, knowledge, and your dedication to helping everyone and answering everyone's questions. So here's my newb questions for you. I'd be so grateful if you took the time to help me out. I've filled my carts and I'm ready to get all ingredients as soon as you reply. Anxious

Kinda excited, kinda embarrassed. Anywho, here goes...

***These questions are all based on still keeping the serum at 20%***

1. Can Aloe Vera Gel be substituted for the SKB and/or Glycerin? (Glycerin is too sticky for my oily skin)
2. Do you not use Vodka to dissolve the FA for this recipe? Should I?
3. How do you know how much of each ingredient and active to use?
4. How can you tell what the % potency is when formulating these serums?
5. Relating to the last 2 questions, How/where can I learn the formulas? (I know that's a silly question, but I'd rather not have to bother you or anyone else if I'd like to change an ingredient to better suit my skincare needs. And I'd prefer not to ruin the serum and potency in the process.)
6. How long will this particular serum last before oxidizing? (I noticed there's not Preservative unless the other ingredients also act as preservatives, which brings me to my last question...
7. Do the HA and SKB also respectively also serve as a preservative? (I know the Vit E does)

I'm really sorry this is so long-winded. I really only initially planned on asking one or two questions and got really carried away. Embarassed

Thank you Thank you Thank you!

Kassy_A wrote:

Vitamin C Serum (Just about 20%)

1 tsp LAA
½ tsp MAP Can this be omitted?
¼ tsp Ferulic Acid
¼ tsp Vitamin E oil (or whatever other oil you use with high E content)
3 tsp H20 (distilled)
1 tsp SKB
½ tsp Glycerin Glycerin usually makes my (very basic) serums too sticky (@ 1 tsp), does it make this serum sticky as well? Is there an oily skin substitute you'd reccommend?
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
5 gtts Kukui Oil (optional, but supposedly it helps with melasma + hyperpigmentation) I'm having trouble finding this, can I substitute Rosehip oil?

To mix, use 2 shot glasses again;

#1 glass

LAA + MAP stirred into H20, then add Ferulic Acid and stir after the C has dissolved. (It will take about 15 or 20 minutes!) Stir frequently!

#2 glass

Add all other ingredients, stir well. Now add contents together a little at a time, stirring constantly.

Pour into a dark bottle and shake well.

ETA: .. THDA can be substituted for the MAP, but that would need to be added to glass #2 in the oil phase.

free skin care · Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:52 pm

Please correct me if Im wrong but pH of MAP needs to be around 7.2 IIRC. Whereas LAA needs pH of 3.5 or less to be effective. So how do you manage this in a serum containing both?

Mon Oct 21, 2013 4:54 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

PM me, and I will come up with a personalized recipe to address your concerns.. (Designer skincare is quickly becoming my new love.. Very Happy

)

Me Please! Pray

free skin care · Wed Oct 23, 2013 4:33 pm

fawnie wrote:

Please correct me if Im wrong but pH of MAP needs to be around 7.2 IIRC. Whereas LAA needs pH of 3.5 or less to be effective. So how do you manage this in a serum containing both?

MAP only needs to be at a ph7 in a retail product so it can sit on a shelf for 2 years.

For DIY purposes (for personal use), MAP does just fine at a 3.5pH for 4 weeks or so.

Personally, I only use and believe in the benefits of L-AA, but when I'm asked to go against the grain, I try to oblige.

Tue Nov 19, 2013 11:14 am

Kassy_A wrote:

Vitamin C Serum (Just about 20%)

1 tsp LAA
½ tsp MAP
¼ tsp Ferulic Acid
¼ tsp Vitamin E oil (or whatever other oil you use with high E content)
3 tsp H20 (distilled)
1 tsp SKB
½ tsp Glycerin
½ tsp Hyaluronic Acid
5 gtts Kukui Oil (optional, but supposedly it helps with melasma + hyperpigmentation)

To mix, use 2 shot glasses again;

#1 glass

LAA + MAP stirred into H20, then add Ferulic Acid and stir after the C has dissolved. (It will take about 15 or 20 minutes!) Stir frequently!

#2 glass

Add all other ingredients, stir well. Now add contents together a little at a time, stirring constantly.

Pour into a dark bottle and shake well.

ETA: .. THDA can be substituted for the MAP, but that would need to be added to glass #2 in the oil phase.

re-posting for garbo

garbo wrote:

Kassie, You seem to be very knowledgeable, my recipe for Vitamin C serum: 2 Tsp LAA 1 Tsp distilled water 1 Tsp Glycerine I don't measure exact amounts is that bad for my skin? Is this an effective recipe for youthful skin?

free skin care · Sat Nov 30, 2013 7:32 pm

Need to put this here... Yep, it's that good! Very Happy

(Please note; If you like it more lotiony, you can decrease the water by 2% and increase the E-wax by 2%)

20% C,E,FA & dl-Panthenol (B5). 2oz Volume (9-12-13)

Distilled Water (68%) 38.56 gms
L-Ascorbic Acid (20%) 11.34 gms (better than 15% unless very sensitive!)
E-Wax (3%) 1.70 gms
Propylene Glycol (2%) 1.13 gms (to solubize FA and also enhance penetration)
Glycerin (2%) 1.13 gms
Jojoba OR Meadowfoam oil (1%) 0.57 gms (will help extend shelf life + also penetration enhancer of sorts
Optiphen (or preservative of choice) (1%) 0.57 gms
Vitamin E Oil (1%) 0.57 gms
dl-Panthenol (pro vit-B5) (1%) 0.57 gms
Ferulic Acid (.5%) 0.28 gms
Citric Acid (.5%) to bring pH under 3 and also extra preservation (I use as much/little as I need for my target pH of 2.5!)

To Prepare:

Heat water(slowly/gently) to 140F then set aside (decant 1oz into a shot glass.) You will add your water soluble actives to it when it cools to 80F or less.

Heat E-wax, and oils (slowly/gently)to 140F and set aside, but do not allow it to get solid. The PG/FA can be added as soon as it cools down to 80 or 90F (Having supplies all prepared will allow you to work quickly!)

In a separate shot glass, measure out the propylene glycol and add the ferulic acid to this. Stir well and leave it be while the above phases are heating.

To the 1oz of water that has cooled to 80f, you can now add and stir in your l-aa, panthenol, citric acid and Optiphen. Add and stir each ingredient well, starting with the l-aa. Now add the glycerin and stir.

Add both phases together and continue to mix with a stick blender until the product cools completely (about 8 or 10 minutes perhaps.)

free skin care · Sat Nov 30, 2013 7:53 pm

And as long as I'm here, enjoy this easy and very moisturizing DIY lip baum;

Moisturizing Lip Balm (just shy of 3oz)

1 TBS beeswax
1/2 TBS shea butter
1/2 TBS coconut oil
1/2 TBS jojoba oil
1/2 TBS castor, almond or any other oil you like
1 tsp vitamin E oil

Optional; (My favorite creamsicle flavor/scent)

5 drops sweet orange essential oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil (I make my own with vanilla beans)
10 drops orange flavor (alcohol free) from DIY supplier

Melt all but the essential/flavor oils + vit E in a glass in a double boiler. (I just use a tiny non stick saucepan, inside a larger saucepan.)

Remove from heat, add in the flavor, essential oils and vitamin E. Stir well and immediately pour into your little jars or whatever you like.. Don't move it until it sets (about 30 minutes.)

*** Just an FYI; those mini Altoids mint tins, make really nice 1oz holders for this balm!***

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:13 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

And as long as I'm here, enjoy this easy and very moisturizing DIY lip baum;

Moisturizing Lip Balm (just shy of 3oz)

1 TBS beeswax
1/2 TBS shea butter
1/2 TBS coconut oil
1/2 TBS jojoba oil
1/2 TBS castor, almond or any other oil you like
1 tsp vitamin E oil

Optional; (My favorite creamsicle flavor/scent)

5 drops sweet orange essential oil
10 drops vanilla fragrance oil (I make my own with vanilla beans)
10 drops orange flavor (alcohol free) from DIY supplier

Melt all but the essential/flavor oils + vit E in a glass in a double boiler. (I just use a tiny non stick saucepan, inside a larger saucepan.)

Remove from heat, add in the flavor, essential oils and vitamin E. Stir well and immediately pour into your little jars or whatever you like.. Don't move it until it sets (about 30 minutes.)

*** Just an FYI; those mini Altoids mint tins, make really nice 1oz holders for this balm!***

Kassy - Hope you don't mind.... I'd like to add a little suggestion to this for anyone who might like a hint of natural color in their balm. You can add beet juice. For Kassy's recipe I'd start at 2-3 teaspoons of beet juice. This can be made from cooked and grated beets or from a health food store.

Love the altoid container suggestion

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 12:57 pm

@Sisareno; The beets definitely will give it color, but I wouldn't use the "juice or fresh beets" because they contain water. (Unless you change it up to include a preservative!)

Beet powder (in the supplement aisle) is a good alternative.

Another great thing, for those who wanted tinted balm, is to slice off about an 1/8th inch piece of your lipstick of choice, and add it to the melted wax/butter/oils. The more you use, the deeper the color, so play around until it's just right.

@havana could you pretty please edit my "lip balm" post to include "1 tsp lanolin" in the ingredient list. (That's what I get for not proof reading my post.. And the lanolin makes a huge difference to the moisture staying power. TIA Very Happy

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:10 pm

***Just an FYI for those interested in any C serum I posted since 2008... Don't use any of the recipes that don't include both a "preservative and emulsifier."***

I cringe when I look at some of those old recipes.. Laughing

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:23 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

***Just an FYI for those interested in any C serum I posted since 2008... Don't use any of the recipes that don't include both a "preservative and emulsifier."***

I cringe when I look at some of those old recipes.. Laughing

Hi Kassy! I'm just getting back into DIY after a long hiatus (buying a fixer-up took all my DIY energy!). I'm looking to cook up one of your Vit C serums and/or a glucosamine & niacinamide serum. I've been trolling through the threads for my perfect recipes--your Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013) looks good, even If I don't have Phloretin right now.

My main question for you is in regards to emulsifiers. I completely understand why you've added preservatives to your serums (and I bought myself some Optiphen for making Xmas gifts), but I'm wondering about the emulsifiers: is this mostly for folks with "separation anxiety" or do you find an added benefit to e-wax and/or polysorbate? I've been planning to use good ol' vodka for the prop. glycol and would prefer to sub beeswax or SKB for the emulsifiers but wanted your expert opinion first. Smile

(While I'm at it, any recs for how to hit these first wrinkles of my mid-30s--besides moisturizing and SPF, which I'm religious with--are most welcome! I'm got some lovely women in my family, but genetically their skin is not my ideal! Laughing

)

Thanks again for being such a continuous, generous (and patient!) source of DIY wisdom for the rest of us!!

free skin care · Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:16 pm

KBLang wrote:

Kassy_A wrote:

***Just an FYI for those interested in any C serum I posted since 2008... Don't use any of the recipes that don't include both a "preservative and emulsifier."***

I cringe when I look at some of those old recipes.. Laughing

Hi Kassy! I'm just getting back into DIY after a long hiatus (buying a fixer-up took all my DIY energy!). I'm looking to cook up one of your Vit C serums and/or a glucosamine & niacinamide serum. I've been trolling through the threads for my perfect recipes--your Vitamin C,E,FA & Phloretin (Oct 23, 2013) looks good, even If I don't have Phloretin right now.

My main question for you is in regards to emulsifiers. I completely understand why you've added preservatives to your serums (and I bought myself some Optiphen for making Xmas gifts), but I'm wondering about the emulsifiers: is this mostly for folks with "separation anxiety" or do you find an added benefit to e-wax and/or polysorbate? I've been planning to use good ol' vodka for the prop. glycol and would prefer to sub beeswax or SKB for the emulsifiers but wanted your expert opinion first. Smile

(While I'm at it, any recs for how to hit these first wrinkles of my mid-30s--besides moisturizing and SPF, which I'm religious with--are most welcome! I'm got some lovely women in my family, but genetically their skin is not my ideal! Laughing

)

Thanks again for being such a continuous, generous (and patient!) source of DIY wisdom for the rest of us!!

Jeeez girl, you flatter me more than I deserve.. I humbly thank you.. Embarassed

-The 'phloretin' was in the recipe simply because someone asked for a Skinceuticals dupe. Personally, I've never used it, so don't know what (if any) it's merits are.) Couldn't hurt though.

-I have learned through trial, error and much research, to never EVER make a water based product, without using a broad spectrum preservative. I have also learned the importance of the "heat & hold" method, which not only gets rid of microscopic critters, but also makes for a nice and easy emulsification process.

-In addition to the above, it's also majorly important to sanitize/sterilize every single thing that you'll be using in your DIY quest. A nice 4oz spray bottle filled with alcohol works well for me... And in addition to that, I always run my *stuff* through the dishwasher to sterilize prior to making anything.

-As far as "recs" for wrinkles (or anything), I would simply suggest you concentrate on feeding your skin antioxidants day and night... Speaking as a 60 something I can tell you this... If I did all the things at 30, that I'm doing in my 60's, I'd probably still look 30... Laughing

Honest to God, and all I hold dear, the best thing I have done for my skin was LED treatments, and an exclusive DIY antioxidant regime. Simple, easy and it works. For me it's been 6 solid years of this, and my skin looks better now, than it did when I began this journey.

The sag and aging process continues, but I'm rocking better skin than most 1/2 my age. (And the sagging is way slowed down~!) Very Happy

So after all this long winded saga I'll tell you what I think you really want to know... If I were 30 again, and knew what I know now, here's what I'd do/use.

-LED treatments for sure
-Antioxidant day cream (co-q-10, ALA, glutathione, panthenol, vit E + vit C)
-Antioxidant night cream (niacinamide, vit A,C,E, vit E + glutathione

Those are my favorite actives, and I just mix them around to suit my needs. I occasionally incorporate green/white tea, astaxanthin + amino acids.

I've tried everything, and the above is what stands the test of time for me. Hope it helps.

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