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Hyaluronic Acid---good or bad?
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Tue Dec 30, 2008 10:47 am      Reply with quote
This is a great thread and you guys are dancing all around the correct answer for this topic!

First of all, Hyaluronic Acid is good to use in skin care products and it is an excellent moisturizer with a stellar safety record.

It is the WAY that you use the Hyaluronic Acid that really makes the difference. It should be used in a properly formulated cream or lotion. This forum has pointed out that some creams and lotions can actually be drying to the skin because of the use of incorrect emollients and synthetic emulsifiers to hold the oils and water together. A properly formulated cream or lotion must take into consideration the "sebum" of your skin. This is the protective oils, esters, fats, cholesterol, and squalene that make up skin oils. You must make a cream or lotion to "complement" this protective sebum, not disrupt it.

Too much Hyaluronic Acid, or straight Hyaluronic acid can and will draw the water right out of your skin. This is true of glycerin as well. These materials are "humectants" which draw moisture to themselves. This is especially true of dry, low humidity climates where there is no water in the atmosphere. The water has to come from somewhere and your skin will be the source.

That's why the Hyaluronic Acid should be in a cream or lotion that contains 1)water 2)the proper emollient oils and esters 3)natural emulsifiers similar to the skin's sebum 4)occlusive materials, naturally derived that keeps moisture trapped at the skin's surface.

Proper emollient oils are macadamia, olive, and meadowfoam, and proper esters are jojoba. The natural emulsifiers can be made from olive or jojoba derivatives. The very best natural occlusive material is jojoba esters. Jojoba Esters are even better than the industry standard of petrolatum (a petroleum biproduct), and jojoba esters an non-pore clogging.

Add glycerin and Hyaluronic acid to the above combination of materials and you will have the absolute best moisturizing lotion available that will absolutely NOT dry out the skin in any climate or temperature.

But, all of this just goes to show you that cosmetic chemistry is a very precise science, and "combinations" must be put together to achieve the proper goal. Simple "hit and miss" combinations of one or two ingredients can actually be worse for the skin, and lotions designed with this "hit and miss" style are just poor chemistry designed to make a buck in most cases.

Hope this helps,


President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist,, Age 51 and staying young forever!
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