Stumbling Blocks (Allure Article)
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free skin care · Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:05 am

Stumbling Blocks by Laurel Naversen Geraghty

This article is from Allure magazine. I typed out the most important parts of the article.

According to this 2006 study from the University of California, Riverside, certain sunscreens cause more free radicals to form than no sunscreen at all. If the findings are confirmed, the implications will be enormous and sobering, given that women have been told for decades the best way to minimize aging and the risk of skin cancer.

According to UC Riverside study, helmed by lead author Kerry Hanson three commonly used, FDA-approved sunscreen filters Octyl Methoxycinnmate, Octocrylene, and benzophenone-3 can boost the number of free radicals over time when they break down and are absorbed into the skin. According to my analysis of the study findings, one hour after a ten minute session of UV exposure, the ingredient benzophenone-3 elevated free radicals, by 64 percent compared to the control, while octocrylene boosted free radicals by 33 percent and 16 percent respectively. The rate of free radical elevation caused by the sun itself has not been studied, according to several dermatologists.
And it may not be just there three ingredients that cause problems, notes Hanson. The UC Riverside scientists chose to test these chemicals because they are the three most commonly used ingredients in sunscreen worldwide and their chemical structures are very similar to other molecules that we know generate free radicals. Hanson says. It seems that any sunscreen has the potential to create free radicals including even the newer, more photostable versions and the purely physical blocks zinc and titanium dioxide according to Hanson but further study is needed. We don’t have enough data yet to judge which sunscreens do not generate free radicals.

Some dermatologists pooh-pooh the free radical study at UC Riverside as small and inconclusive, noting that it didn’t use actual sunscreen just individual ingredients. And some point out that the study used epidermal model tissue genetically engineered skin rather than real human sample. This study uses a skin model, and this sort of thing happens all the time: you get quirky findings that we can’t replicate because those things don’t happen in people. Says James M. Spencer, a clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai School of Medicine in New York.

Hansons’ response to these criticisms? She says the study wasn’t done on people because the free radical detecting technology is not approved for use on humans and notes that fake skin was irradiated for only about the equivalent of ten minutes of unprotected time in noonday summer sun—quite a conservative test, considering the hours that some of us bake out there. Hanson adds that the study built upon ten year old test tube research that also suggested that some sunscreen ingredients contribute to free radicals.
In any case, there is a faction of respected of dermatologist who aren’t ready to discount even a small study. “I think the UC Riverside free radical study is true—fake skin like this is commonly used in studies, and the researchers used advanced methods to image bioengineered skin and measure the amounts of free radical production” says Leslie Baumann, director of Miami Cosmetic Medicine and Research Institute, who has been at the forefront of many dermatological studies. “We’ve actually been talking about this for a couple of years,” she says.
Sheldon Pinnell, a professor of dermatology at Duke University School of Medince, also thinks study has validity, it’s know that some sunscreens behave in this manner. They get inside the skin and absorb energy, and that energy becomes free radicals, which can potentially cause harm he says, naming avobenozone (which UC Riverside didn’t test), as one that can form fairly active free radicals.

While more research is needed, the science has mad one thing clear: Adding high-quality antioxidants to sunscreen can counteract any free radicals activity as long as there are enough of them in the formulation. Antioxidants act like marriage counselors, striving to keep straying electrons from splitting into free radicals. A few companies, including, Coppertone, Murad, Priori, and Topix have had antioxidant sunscreens for several years Their standout products according to Baumann are Coppertone’s NutraShield Sunscreen Lotion with Dual Defense, Murad Oil Free Sunblock, Priori Radical Defense Sunscreen, and Topix’s Citrix Antioxidant Sunscreen: they all have hefty amount of good quality antioxidants, she says.

“We looked for at vitamins C and E, and they really do a great job of quenching the free radicals”, says Hanson. “Personally I look for a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or above and antioxidants high up on the ingredient list.” And they do not have to be in your sunscreen to work, adds Pinell, who’s studied free radical fighters extensively. “Once absorbed into the skin, antioxidants can last about four days. So even if you forget to put them on one morning, they’re still in there working for you”. Baumann herself isn’t as relaxed about her own routine” “I always put on a layer of antioxidants first and then a sunscreen also containing them afterward”.

Still dermatologist even ones who believe the study are adamant about not overstating the dangers. “It would be terrible to give people the message that sunscreen is bad and you shouldn’t use it”. Says Amy B. Lewis an assistant clinical professor at Yale School of Medicine. “Right now we have one small, inconclusive study versus huge amounts of data that show the lack of sun protection causes DNA damage, melanoma, basal cell and squamous cell skin cancer, and horrible deformed moles and wrinkles, and there is great evidence for prolonged use of sunscreen to protect against all of those things. If these chemicals cause something, then sun exposure you’re trading t for going to cause more free radicals. “

The UC Riverside researchers also insist that their take home message wasn’t to stop using sunscreen. “Our work supports what the Skin Cancer Foundation recommends, which is to reapply sunscreen often and liberally.” Hanson says. “At first you could, look at our data and say, “Should I not wear Sunscreen?—but the data really says it’s still the best dense we have against sun damage, especially with antioxidants to neutralize any free radicals. We just need to start using it in a smarter way.” And it’s not that there’s a conspiracy by the sunscreen industry, Hanson insists: “ I found more companies to be extremely receptive to this data—contacting me, embracing the study, and asking for more information because they want better products. The science is just starting to catch up”.

free skin care · Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:15 am

"It seems that any sunscreen has the potential to create free radicals including even the newer, more photostable versions and the purely physical blocks zinc and titanium dioxide according to Hanson but further study is needed."

Where's the evidence for that? It seemed they just made up this statement...

free skin care · Sun Jan 25, 2009 8:28 pm

this has been unsettling to me for a while...
as the percentage of young women with melanoma has greatly increased since it's been advocated to use sunscreen protection so avidly..and it's been difficult for me to 'witness'...since it seemed to me that the reason was the ingredients in the sunscreens...which imo have not all been safe.

free skin care · Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:20 am

The article unnerved me as well, but I continue to use sunscreen, until more thorough studies prove the same results. In the meantime, I make sure to use sunscreen with antioxidants and use an antioxidant serum before applying my sunscreen.

free skin care · Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:31 am

Interesting, you know that if you are using sunscreens based on antioxidants you should apply 30 minutes before exposure to sun, as that's how long it takes to absorb.

Physical sunblock like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide are effective right away.

But yeah, I don't like all the sunscreens either - would still like them to do some more research on the subject - especially important for kids.

free skin care · Tue Jan 27, 2009 8:27 am

Nimue wrote:

"It seems that any sunscreen has the potential to create free radicals including even the newer, more photostable versions and the purely physical blocks zinc and titanium dioxide according to Hanson but further study is needed."

Where's the evidence for that? It seemed they just made up this statement...

Well, that's what the scientist stated, and he or she said 'further study is needed' so it's a kind of a presumption. I read this article already since I get the magazine. I sort understood the jist to be "We don't really know if sunblock really does this or not, but there's a couple people who do think it does, but don't stop wearing sunscreen in the mean time."

Pffbt. I've been trying to stick to physical sunblocks, since they're supposed to stay on till you wash them off. I don't know if that's true... but I like to think it is.

free skin care · Tue Jan 27, 2009 9:27 am

Well the article states that only the presence of antioxidants stops the free radicals - and that's vitamins.

So using physical sunblock, but also need to vitaminize your skin, or better yet your whole self. ...

Would love to read more info on the subject if anyone has available.

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