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Tue Mar 31, 2009 8:33 am  |
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• 302 FAQ for Newbies
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=33409
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::REVIEW:: 302 Skincare Part 1: Intro to a Non-Acid Regimen
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=28855
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::REVIEW:: 302 Skincare Part 2: More Questions and Feedback
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=35321
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Hi everybody,
The original 302 thread has gotten so long, that new people interested in the line may not have the time to read through all of it, thereby missing alot of valuable info. I wrote up a 302 FAQ (which Dr H okayed) that summarizes what 302 skincare is and how it differs from other skincare. You cannot just add it to your current regimen, and there are certain guidelines that should be followed for the best results. If you have any questions after reading this FAQ, post on the original thread, so we don't create 2 big threads.
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=28855
Thanks!
Nancy (boski)
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302 Skincare FAQ (by boski)
Q1. What makes 302 skincare different?
For more a detailed summary, I would read my original post in the thread entitled "REVIEW: 302 Skincare: a nonacid approach." What makes 302 different is that (unlike many skin care lines) it is not based on a "repair" model. The repair model uses acids and other mechanical means of exfoliating the skin in order to jump start it into collagen production which results in anti-aging. The repair model can induce collagen production to an extent and often causes microinflammation (subclinical swelling) which reduces the appearance of wrinkles. The problem with the repair model, though, is that the quality of collagen is often subpar, it depletes the skin in the long-run, and speeds up the aging process for some. The skin cells require energy to repair itself after each exfoliation, and this energy declines with age, just as your metabolism slows down when you age. The older you are, the harder the skin will have to work to repair itself. Often the skin is so depleted after years of being constantly exfoliated, that it will become thin, blotchy, sensitive, and unhealthy looking. More often than not, the long-term effects of depleted skin presents as rosacea, breakouts, sensitivity to products (even water), and impermeable skin. The period of decline from long-term acid use varies in individuals though. Some people handle acids/peels very well for a very long period of time and may never need to change, but others cannot. For people who cannot tolerate acids, 302 is ideal.
Instead of a repair model, inflicting surface injury to the skin, 302 uses a metabolic model. It uses strong actives, applied very infrequently, to prompt the skin to behave more like it did when you were younger. It preserves the skin barrier and strengthens the skin's ability to resist sun damage and aging. The patented 302 compound provides the glucose to the skin which is the source of energy it needs as skin ages. The way you apply the products is unconventional; it is less frequent, and you rotate products each day preferably. You MUST be under the guidance of an esthetician to properly use the products.
Q2. Who is Dr. H?
In our thread, Dr. H is NOT Dr. Hauschka. We talk a lot about Dr. H in the thread. He is Dr. Richard Huber, a biochemist who has been working with skin and bone regeneration for about 3 decades. His discovery and research into the compound called 302, also known as avocatin or Avogen, was the catalyst for this skin care line. He is director and master formulator for the 302 products. The compound 302 is patented and is not available in any other lines except for the sister skin care line called Calmskin, which is a direct-to-consumer line and can be bought online atwww.calmskin.com without consulting with an esthetician. All of Dr. H's posts are highlighted in blue within the thread. I highly recommend newbies to read his posts. You will learn a lot about how skin works at the cellular level from them. And that is what really counts as far as sustained results go....the changes at the cellular level, not just the surface appearance of the skin.
Q3. How do I know if 302 skincare is right for me?
For the best chance of success, answer the following questions. If you answered "yes" to all or the majority of the questions, you are probably a good candidate for 302.
1. Are you going to be seeing or consulting with a 302 esthetician while using this line? There are too many products in this line which are geared for specific conditions, along with specific protocols and methods of application for each condition. The 302 Handbook is 306 pages long, so it is very complex. It's important you have this information, which can only come from a professional that you can communicate with on a regular basis. Even if you read the 302 thread in its entirety, that may not give you the information you need for your skin condition. If you don't have professional guidance or know what you're doing, it can create more problems. These are very strong actives. Misused, you can seriously irritate your skin.
2. Are you willing to use only 302 products and follow the protocol recommended to the letter? Especially, not using any of your old favorites with 302 and not using lotion makeup/moisturizers/sunscreens. This is not a marketing ploy. It really is to ensure you get optimal results.
3. Are you willing to persist through a possible transition period of uglies (which includes dryness, irritation, breakouts, blackheads) that may last up to 2 or 3 months?
Especially, if you were on acids long-term, this could very well happen. It's not something most people can handle and that's understandable. To avoid getting stressed out, make sure you have no major commitments or social events when you start out, for at least a month or two. The 302 company does provide transitional products which are meant to control these problems and renormalize the skin before going forward. Anyway, plan on the worst but hope for the best. If you can manage to survive this period, the skin will eventually recover and improve from that point onward. Not everybody has a difficult transition, but those who do usually see it happening almost immediately and can adjust the regimen to lessen the problems (see question Q7).
4. Are you willing to monitor your skin's reaction and make appropriate adjustments? That is, you have to be observant in how the topicals affect your skin. If you notice dryness and/or breakouts, it could be you need to back off on your application frequency. Many people don't adjust the regime to see if this helps relieve the problems before just giving up. The actives are potent. Sensitive skin types, especially, are likely to not tolerate as frequent application. Also, if using prescription products with 302, such as Retin A, you may encounter irritation and dryness. Many people can use Retin A with 302, but you have to monitor your skin. If you get too dry, you may need to use Retin A less or further down the road, after you've been on 302 longer. Many products in the vitamin A family (Retinol, tretinoin) and brand names containing this family: Avage, Differin, Tazorac will work better if applied less frequently whenever 302 is also used.
5. Do you have a realistic expectation of what to expect? Re-establishing the skin is a long process when done correctly. So, this is not a line that produces dramatic results in a couple months. I don't know why some people are better/faster responders...this is a question I wish I knew the answer to. But for "most" people, it takes time for the skin to recover and rebuild, especially after long-term use of acids and inflammatory procedures. The results are only going to be dramatic after you've been on it for at least 6 months from reading people's experiences. But if you see any improvement, it continues for years down the road, and it is easier to maintain the longer you're on it.
Q4. Where can I purchase 302?
Since 302 is professional use only, you will not find it in retail or mainstream online stores. Before purchasing products, the 302 company requires all estheticians to offer a personal consultation to ensure the client is getting the right products and knows how to use the products. This consultation can be done in person, via online survey and telephone or e-mail. There are several ways to find an esthetician, doctor, or spa that carries the line and/or does 302 facials:
1. For United States residents, go to the 302 web site atwww.302skincare.com and use the zip code locator function. The locations closest to you will appear. The 302 company also has a default esthetician at Advanced Dermatology in Spokane, WA who can help people who have no estheticians close by. Her name is Sabrena, and her information will pop up as the default.
2. If you are outside of the United States, you can either locate an online source by googling "302 skincare". There are several estheticians who have web sites, do phone or e-mail consultations, and sell products online.
3. We have a few estheticians well known to the EDS forum who can sell 302 as well. Right now we have EDS member "esthysteph", Ellen at Ellen's Place Salon in MA, Nanci at NCN Professional Skincare, Jennifer at 21st Century Skincare, Samtosa Skin Care. As more become known, I can update this list.
Q5. I have no instructions with my products. What do I do?
Contact the esthetician you bought the products from or email info@302skincare.com.
Q6. Can I use my old favorites with 302?
It's not recommended that you use anything products outside of 302, for a couple reasons. We need to gauge what kind of reaction you have to 302, and we need to avoid any possible interaction between ingredients. If you use 302 with acids like L-ascorbic C and Retin A, you could encounter problems such as dryness, irritation, breakouts, and rashes. To ensure minimum problems and best results, you should try to hold off on non-302 products if possible. Ask your esthetician if you feel you can't do without something. It may be okay in rare instances (like a plain carrier oil or emu oil). You must also evaluate your makeup - many times, ingredients in your existing makeup will create problems going forward.
Q7. I just started on 302, and I have breakouts, blackheads, clogged pores, a rash, or darkening pigmentation. What's happening and what can I do about it?
This is very common when transitioning from a long-term regimen using acids, or strong actives (like CP/BP/HP). The transition period for some people is very easy, while others seem to have a very bad time of it. To avoid problems, you should stop your current skincare for at least a couple weeks. Just use very gentle cleansers and SPF (MMU if possible) and nothing else. If you have very irritated skin, you may need to be off products for even longer. The goal is to get your skin back to baseline and somewhat calmed down before beginning. For some people, when they stop their current products, they may encounter dryness or irritation. This may be a sign that your skin was "addicted" to whatever was being used and showing withdrawal symptoms. This will lessen over time. If once you start 302, you see the breakouts or plugs occurring, you are going through the "uglies" phase. This is usually a sign that your skin is starting to function correctly. The skin's waste mechanism is starting to work normally again to purge your skin of stuff that had been sitting under your skin for awhile. You may see tons of "blackheads" (melanin deposits coming to the surface) that you never had before. Plugs may be very numerous in the beginning but will decrease over time. Professional extractions are the best way to help with this. The number of plugs and severity of breakouts will eventually decrease, as the skin functions renormalize. If you see a rash, your skin may not be ready for 302 actives yet because it's still very sensitized. People who have rosacea will especially be prone to this, as anything new (even water) could aggravate the skin. Pigment will sometimes darken when first using the 302 actives, as the skin is "awakening" and performing better. The waste material (in the form of pigmentation) is moved more effectively to the surface, which will present as darker spots. With time, the pigment will eventually lighten. Ultrasound will help this process along.
It usually takes 3 months for the more severe cases of uglies to fully go away. But once there, your skin will improve from that point onward. To lessen the uglies, you can do several things. In the case of rashes or severe breakouts, stop using actives immediately and prolong the transition period by just using the Face and Body bar or other 302 cleansers once or twice a day until your skin is less inflamed and sensitive. You may find that the Ointment RX and Calming Mist will help with inflammation. The Acne Mist will help with plugs. Another way of slowly transitioning is to use a limited contact approach by mixing the active in with a cleanser and leave on you face for about 10-20 minutes. Rinse off thoroughly. Even though you are rinsing it off, the active will still get into the dermis because of its small molecular size. Once your skin is more stabilized, you can use the active as a leave-on overnight. Start with 1 or 2x a week applications, introducing 1 topical at a time, and then start adding others in on alternate nights if things continue smoothly. If you encounter more problems, you need to back off and apply less frequently. In time, the skin will be healthier and better able to handle the stronger actives. It's a step-by-step approach. Sometimes you need baby steps in the beginning. This is why having an esthetician to guide you is a good idea. They see lots of clients with similar problems and skin types and can help you determine the best course of action.
Q8. I have acne scars, will 302 help?
Definitely, but the age of the client, the age and severity of the scars, and the current condition of the skin will affect the results. With very severe scars, more aggressive treatments incorporating gadgets like ultrasound, dermarolling, LED, and occasional 302 facials by a professional may be needed. Scar remodeling is a slow process. Expect at least 6 months to see any improvement, up to years for substantial improvement. I've been on 302 over 4 years, and only now is my scarring reduced enough where I do not need to cover them.
Q9. Does 302 guarantee results? What is the return policy?
No, they cannot guarantee results because everybody's reaction to the 302 products will be different. There are too many variables in the skin to predict what will happen for everybody. However, if unsatisfied for any reason, you may send the products back to your esthetician or source of purchase (before the refund period is up) for a refund or exchange, less shipping charges. Consult with you esthetician on their refund period.
Q10. I have deep lines (11's and nasolabial lines) and sagging jowls. Will 302 help with those?
While 302 is excellent for skin health, underlying muscles which sag or cause deep lines will not be helped alone by 302. You will need to look at other means to stimulate and exercise your facial muscles. Things that may help are facial exercises, cupping, electrical stimulation through microcurrent. There are many threads on EDS which address these methods.
Q11. Is this line an anti-aging line or an acne/rosacea line?
It can address both problems, but the products you use will differ depending on your individual needs and current skin condition. Consult with your esthetician and provide a complete history and current skin assessment so that she/he can recommend the correct products and regimen for your issues.
Q12. Is this line good for hyperpigmentation?
Yes, it can be, but it is not a quick fix for hyperpigmentation unless you have surface hyperpigmentation in the top layers of the epidermis. You can try a professional microdermabrasion or acid peel (with salicylates or AHAs) a couple times and see if it lightens surface hyperpigmentation. If nothing happens, discontinue exfoliative methods because the pigment is further down in the dermal layer, and further exfoliation will just drive it deeper. Dermal hyperpigmentation, especially that induced by laser treatments gone wrong or discontinuation of immune suppressors like hydroquinone, is extremely difficult to get rid of, but it can be done given time and patience. Once you have started a 302 hyperpigmentation regimen, you will need to give it at least 6-9 months for the first signs of improvement and up to a full year for substantial lightening. The incorporation of ultrasound will help tremendously in speeding up this process.
Q13. How long do the products last? How much does it cost to start?
Because you are not using the products everyday or twice a day, it actually lasts quite awhile. Most people get a couple cleansers and one active to start with. This should not cost more than $100-$150, but will last 2-3 months. You can add in additional products along the way as your budget allows.
Q14. Are results long-lasting or will my skin revert back once I stop?
This is what sets 302 skin care apart from others. Though results are not instantaneous, the results are sustainable and long-lasting. Wrinkling, hyperpigmentation and scarring which has diminished will not return. It is recommended, in fact, that you take a 302 "holiday" when you sense a plateau. This can be 2-3 weeks long. Stop using the actives entirely. You can continue using the cleansers and mists while on the holiday. When you resume, the improvement continues on a whole new level.
Q15. Can 302 help with the appearance of eczema?
Yes, many people have reported success with Recovery Plus, 302 serum, Ointment RX in helping reduce the appearance of eczema. |
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