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New to making Vitamin C Serum
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Coopertage
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 4:17 pm      Reply with quote
Hi,
I have just made my first batch of vitamin c serum (thanks to this forum Very Happy ). I have a few questions.
My formulation: 2 ml distilled water; 1/4 tsp l-ascorbic acid; 1 ml glycerin

1. What consistency is the serum supposed to be? watery? thick? Mine is kinda grainy. Did I not dissolve it enough?
2. Does putting other products over it (i.e. moisturizer, argan oil) affect the effectiveness of the C serum? Should I wait a certain amount of time before putting on other products?

I am kinda new to DIY skincare, so I want to make sure I am doing it right. Any suggestions/help would be very much appreciated! Thank you so much.
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:21 pm      Reply with quote
The recipe I make is as follows: 1/4 tsp Ascorbic Acid, 1 tsp water, and 1 tsp (sometimes less) of Glycerin. The serum you are using, has an extra tsp of water, which means the Vitamin C concentration is on the lower side. Usually my serum is pretty watery. And yes, if it is grainy, it's probably because the ascorbic acid didn't fully dissolve. I'm not sure if you're supposed to do this, but when I make my batch, I use semi warm water so the crystals dissolve quicker. Also, referring to your question about wearing moisturizer over the Vit C serum. I usually apply the serum, and wait a good 15-20 minutes before applying moisturizer on top, that way you give some time for the serum to really absorb into your skin.

Hope I was able to answer some of your questions.
Coopertage
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 5:54 pm      Reply with quote
Thank you so much for replying. How long does a batch of this size last for you? Do you apply once or twice daily? It doesn't make sense to use less water and the C will still dissolve? What will it look like when it IS dissolved? Thanks!
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:12 pm      Reply with quote
Coopertage wrote:
Thank you so much for replying. How long does a batch of this size last for you? Do you apply once or twice daily? It doesn't make sense to use less water and the C will still dissolve? What will it look like when it IS dissolved? Thanks!


Warm not hot water won't hurt the LAA at all, and just allow it to sit and dissolve stirring occasionally and it will dissolve then add it to your glycerin once it is. Most use it within 1-3 weeks, make sure you keep it stored in a dark glass bottle away from heat and light. You can refrigerate to ensure it oxidizes slowly. If it starts turning yellow it is time to pitch it and make a new batch.

HTH
DM

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EC413
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 6:44 pm      Reply with quote
Coopertage wrote:
Thank you so much for replying. How long does a batch of this size last for you? Do you apply once or twice daily? It doesn't make sense to use less water and the C will still dissolve? What will it look like when it IS dissolved? Thanks!

You're welcome.

One batch usually lasts well over a week, sometimes more. I sometimes apply it once, sometimes twice. Some days I don't even apply it. It might not last as long for you, depending on how often you apply it.

The crystals will still dissolve, even when using 1 tsp of water. It also helps to have a tinted bottle with dropper, to put it in. That way, if you notice it's grainy, you can shake it up.

When it's dissolved, it will simply look like water. Completely clear. As DarkMoon said, once it starts to turn a yellowish tint, it has become oxidized, and you're supposed to throw it out! I don't keep mine in the fridge, just a dark closet, but putting it in the fridge is supposed to make it last longer (for obvious reasons).
Coopertage
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:26 pm      Reply with quote
K. I think I must be doing something wrong then...cause mine is def grainy. Thank you so much for the help. Very Happy
I guess when I see the word "serum" I think it should be thicker....
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Sun Feb 21, 2010 7:43 pm      Reply with quote
Coopertage wrote:
K. I think I must be doing something wrong then...cause mine is def grainy. Thank you so much for the help. Very Happy
I guess when I see the word "serum" I think it should be thicker....


Where are you getting your vitamin C from some seem to have better luck with lotioncrafters ultrafine.

http://www.lotioncrafters.com

HTH
DM Smile

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foxe
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Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:49 am      Reply with quote
What % Vit C is the recipe w/ 1/4 tsp L-AA and 1 tsp H2O?

I recieved L-AA w/ my owndoc rollers and want to use it under my lipid Vit C as an extra boost. I tried making it once, but don't have glycerin and it was very watery. Is the glycerin needed to make it more serum-like?

Also, where can I find glycerin? Any places like Whole Foods sell this or do I need to go on-line?

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Mars
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Wed Feb 24, 2010 9:41 am      Reply with quote
Hi, Do you have to use distilled water? Smile

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EC413
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Wed Feb 24, 2010 4:23 pm      Reply with quote
foxe wrote:
What % Vit C is the recipe w/ 1/4 tsp L-AA and 1 tsp H2O?

I recieved L-AA w/ my owndoc rollers and want to use it under my lipid Vit C as an extra boost. I tried making it once, but don't have glycerin and it was very watery. Is the glycerin needed to make it more serum-like?

Also, where can I find glycerin? Any places like Whole Foods sell this or do I need to go on-line?


I believe that particular recipe is 10% although I am not entirely sure.

The glycerin DOES make it a little more serum-like... it thickens it up a bit, so it isn't as watery, although it doesn't do too much. I guess you can use some sort of alcohol in place of glycerin, but it might be drying. Glycerin is also an emollient, and it helps to moisturize your skin.

I found my glycerin at my local Giant Eagle (grocery store)... it was like 4 ounces for 2 or 3 dollars.

You can also order it online.. eBay and other various skincare sites.


MARS, I find myself using bottled water... although I think they recommend distilled because it's more "pure" for your skin, or something. I don't think you HAVE to use distilled.
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Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:03 pm      Reply with quote
I am not positive without checking but I thought the 10% recipe had half the water but might be totally wrong.
The reason that most use the distilled water is it's free of metals and minerals that can interact with the C, however I recall reading it isn't easy to find in the UK. I think for the under a dollar I find a gallon jug in every grocery and drug store here in the US it's just easier to go with the purest possible.

The glycerin I agree I do buy mine at the health food store to make sure I get vegetable glycerin but that's a personal preference, it's in most all drug stores and grocery stores here as well.

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chellelynn
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Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:47 pm      Reply with quote
Coopertage I am new to making my own vitamin C serum as well.

In fact this week I made my first batch as well and it was grainy because I did not let the LAA dissolve fully into the water before adding the glycerin.

For my second batch, I used warm distilled water and stirred until it was completely dissolved.

Also, I only used 1 teaspoon or water and not two that way it was thicker!

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Mars
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Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:29 am      Reply with quote
Thank you for answering my question about using distilled water. I'm really considering making my own C serum. I've been using 302 C Boost and like it very much. Some people have said my skin looks better than it used to. I don't know if it's 302 or not. I'm almost out, though and want to use a C serum.

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EC413
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Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:47 am      Reply with quote
Mars wrote:
Thank you for answering my question about using distilled water. I'm really considering making my own C serum. I've been using 302 C Boost and like it very much. Some people have said my skin looks better than it used to. I don't know if it's 302 or not. I'm almost out, though and want to use a C serum.


You're welcome.

Go ahead and make the vit c serum. Not only does it save you a BUNCH of money... I noticed my skin changing within a few days of using it. It really improved my complexion, more than any other serum/cream/lotion I have purchased for so much more money in stores. Anddd, there aren't a lot of additives, fragrances, etc... just vitamin c, water, and glycerin. It's pretty simple. I like simple.
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Thu Feb 25, 2010 8:52 am      Reply with quote
EC413,

I sooo agree with you, life is complicated enough, I love keeping it simple! Smile This recipe does just that nice and easy, and works plus feels great going on your skin! Smile

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foxe
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Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:28 pm      Reply with quote
EC413 wrote:

I believe that particular recipe is 10% although I am not entirely sure.

The glycerin DOES make it a little more serum-like... it thickens it up a bit, so it isn't as watery, although it doesn't do too much. I guess you can use some sort of alcohol in place of glycerin, but it might be drying. Glycerin is also an emollient, and it helps to moisturize your skin.

I found my glycerin at my local Giant Eagle (grocery store)... it was like 4 ounces for 2 or 3 dollars.

You can also order it online.. eBay and other various skincare sites.


MARS, I find myself using bottled water... although I think they recommend distilled because it's more "pure" for your skin, or something. I don't think you HAVE to use distilled.


I think I've seen vodka posted as an ingredient in the Vit C recipes. Could this be the 'alcohol' you've mentioned?

And, what would the alcohol do? I have very oily skin, so it may not be bad to be a 'bit' drying.

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Thu Feb 25, 2010 5:46 pm      Reply with quote
foxe,

The alcohol is in the take off of Skincentuals CEF serum you need alcohol to dissolve the FA because it's not water soluble. That's the only recipe that has any in it.

HTH
DM

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Kassy_A
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Thu Feb 25, 2010 7:28 pm      Reply with quote
foxe wrote:

I think I've seen vodka posted as an ingredient in the Vit C recipes. Could this be the 'alcohol' you've mentioned?

And, what would the alcohol do? I have very oily skin, so it may not be bad to be a 'bit' drying.



You've no doubt seen the 'vodka' in the C serum recipe's I have posted... I find it the easiest way to dissolve/liquify the Ferulic Acid. (FA can be dissolved in either vodka, propylene glycol and is also slightly soluble in 'hot' water.) I opted for vodka because I'm not a big fan of PG, and I also like that the alcohol helps the penetration process to be quicker. Just my personal preference and what was good for me.

Skinceuticals opts for propylene glycol as their solvent.. When I came up with my recipe though, I used vodka because I wanted to avoid the PG. Here's the ingredient list for Skinceuticals C, E + FA;

Ingredients for Skinceuticals C E Ferulic

Water, Ethoxydiglycol, L-Ascorbic Acid (Topical Vitamin C), Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Laureth-23, Alpha Tocopherol, Phenoxyethanol, Triethanolamine, Ferulic Acid, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate.


Just an FYI for those interested;

-Laureth-23 is the surfactant + emulsifier

-Phenoxyethanol is the preservative

-Triethanolamine is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. (Not quite sure why it's in a C serum though, as it's pH is 10, and a C serum needs to be below 3.5 to penetrate.) Certainly not my place to judge, just passing on the info as I understand it.

-Ethoxydiglycol (diethylene glycol + monethyl ether) is a solvent. Google for particulars.

For those who are interested in really having the best possible vitamin C serum experience, with the *most* stable 'C' product possible, have a look at this study..

http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v125/n4/full/5603565a.html

Vitamin C is really only as good as the company it keeps. At the very least you will want to team it with vitamin E, but the combo of C, E and Ferulic Acid really is magnificent. The 3 will not only work in synergy treating both the water and lipid parts of your skin cells, but will also recycle one another when each is spent. (When an antioxidant kills a free radical, it is neutralized, it is only another antioxidant that can recycle it.)

Can you tell how much I love this subject. You will too once you see the beautiful + healthy skin you'll enjoy, from just the right combination of ingredients.. Cool

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Mon Mar 01, 2010 2:44 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy wrote:
You've no doubt seen the 'vodka' in the C serum recipe's I have posted... I find it the easiest way to dissolve/liquify the Ferulic Acid. (FA can be dissolved in either vodka, propylene glycol and is also slightly soluble in 'hot' water.) I opted for vodka because I'm not a big fan of PG, and I also like that the alcohol helps the penetration process to be quicker. Just my personal preference and what was good for me.


Kassy - why are you not a fan of PG? Do you have dry skin (I understand it's better for oily skin than glycerin is)

I've just been looking over some recipes I've saved for Vit C serums and see this ing listed a lot. Just wondering your rational here.

I have oily skin BTW.

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Mon Mar 01, 2010 3:00 pm      Reply with quote
There are many that just don't care for using it but,

Humans

Propylene glycol is metabolized in the human body into pyruvic acid, which is a normal part of the glucose metabolism process and is readily converted to energy.

The oral toxicity of propylene glycol is very low, and large quantities are required to cause perceptible health damage in humans. Serious toxicity will occur only at plasma concentrations over 4g/L, which requires extremely high intake over a relatively short period of time.[8] It would be nearly impossible to reach toxic levels by consuming foods or supplements, which contain at most 1g/kg of PG. Cases of propylene glycol poisoning are related to either inappropriate intravenous use or accidental ingestion of large quantities by children.[9]

The potential for long-term toxicity is also low. In one study, rats were provided with feed containing as much as 5% PG over a period of 104 weeks and they showed no apparent ill effects.[10] Because of its low chronic oral toxicity, propylene glycol was classified by the U. S. Food and Drug Administration as "generally recognized as safe" (GRAS) for use as a direct food additive.

Prolonged contact with propylene glycol is essentially non-irritating to the skin. Undiluted propylene glycol is minimally irritating to the eye, and can produce slight transient conjunctivitis (the eye recovers after the exposure is removed). Exposure to mists may cause eye irritation, as well as upper respiratory tract irritation. Inhalation of the propylene glycol vapors appears to present no significant hazard in ordinary applications. However, limited human experience indicates that inhalation of propylene glycol mists could be irritating to some individuals. Therefore inhalation exposure to mists of these materials should be avoided. Some research has suggested that propylene glycol not be used in applications where inhalation exposure or human eye contact with the spray mists of these materials is likely, such as fogs for theatrical productions or antifreeze solutions for emergency eye wash stations.[11]

Propylene glycol does not cause sensitization and it shows no evidence of being a carcinogen or of being genotoxic.[12][13]

There is limited evidence that intravenous injection of propylene glycol can cause adverse responses in a small number of people. A Clinical Journal of Medicine article describes two cases of adult men experiencing psychosis from use of injected phenytoin that contained PG as a solvent. Their symptoms resolved when they were switched to a phenytoin formulation without propylene glycol.[citation needed]


http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Propylene_glycol?wasRedirected=true

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Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:16 pm      Reply with quote
I'm interested in trying this product:

EC Mode® Zinc C Thera-Serum

http://www.malibuwellness.com/content/CN_Product_Detail.aspx?ID=38201

I'm also interested in adding Ferulic Acid to it. Can I add the PSF antioxidant booster to this, or do I first have to add the booster to a little vodka? It says that the PSF antioxidant booster is water soluble...

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/psf-antioxidant-booster-p_11290.htm

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Mon Mar 01, 2010 9:22 pm      Reply with quote
lol, I just answered my own question. On the PSF website the ingredients for the antioxidant booster are lister as propylene glycol and ferulic acid.

It does say to to add it to 30 ml of serum but the serum I'll be adding it to is 50 ml, I hope it's still effective.

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benaked
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Fri Sep 03, 2010 7:19 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:

Can you tell how much I love this subject. You will too once you see the beautiful + healthy skin you'll enjoy, from just the right combination of ingredients.. Cool


Kassy,

You seem to have really impressive results with vitamin C + serum:) Could you please share if you somehow lower your skin pH before applying vit C serum for its better penetration?

Many thanks.
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Sat Sep 04, 2010 11:25 am      Reply with quote
benaked wrote:

Kassy,

You seem to have really impressive results with vitamin C + serum:) Could you please share if you somehow lower your skin pH before applying vit C serum for its better penetration?

Many thanks.


I think my "good" results are from a combination of good practices, and by no means just vit C serum. I wouldn't call it "impressive", but I am certainly meeting my goal of slowing down the aging process.. Laughing

I would imagine my skins pH is as neutral as it gets for the simple reason that I seldom have anything on it. (I don't wear any makeup or chemical sunscreen, seldom use more than water and a microfiber cloth to cleanse, (OCM once a weekish) and I only use 2 DIY serums and an AHA product maybe twice per week each.

If you use a non-alkaline product to cleanse and then wait about 10 minutes or so to apply your C serum, you should be okay. (I'm assuming you are using an L-AA serum Confused )

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Sat Sep 04, 2010 7:17 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:


If you use a non-alkaline product to cleanse and then wait about 10 minutes or so to apply your C serum, you should be okay. (I'm assuming you are using an L-AA serum Confused )


Many thanks for your fast response! I have read elsewhere that for vitamin C to penetrate the skin the ph has to be somewhere around 2.3(?). So I thought that that to make sure the vit C penetrates the skin it has to be prepped with the low ph product. But now I understand that if your skin ph is neutral, that the low acidity of the serum is enough for entering the skin? Please correct me if I am wrong.

I am starting the new regimen incorporating Retin-A, copper peptides and Vit C (currently I use just L-AA disssolved it in water). I am cleansing with Philosophy Pure and have ordered Marie Veronique Organics SPF (mineral non micronized) moisturiser and Alima pure mineral foundation. I also use Algologie Centella Asiatica gel. I guess that is not that much. Laughing I tried to compile the effective and natural products.

Hopefully you could give me some advice on Vitamin C, E, ferulic serum as well:) I did my first one after your recipe Wink a few month ago, but probably I have missed smth. Mine turned out a bit gritty (?), it looked like flakes you get from bad milk being occasionally poured into coffee (sorry for my english). I can not say was it undissolved ferulic or not (i tried my best to dissolve it in vodka) but i have used SKB straight from the fridge and it looked like these undissolved gel bits picked up the ferulic. I thought it was emulsification issue, so i added some Lecithin (from gel cap with no additives). It was rather dense, so I guess I failed to incorporate it properly. It did a bit improve the mixture but still not enough for me wanting to use it:) I want to give it another try and wish to do it properly. I would really appreciate your advice.

And very last thing.. I have noticed that when I use L-AA solution my pores get orangy (Vit C oxidised?) and my skin generally looks with a hint of additional colour. Is it a common issue among users? Have you experience this?

Really sorry for this long post.Embarassed But your advise is really needed:)

Many thanks!
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