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Night treatment - AHA / BHA / Glycolic Confusion
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Honey
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Wed Dec 01, 2004 3:23 pm      Reply with quote
Hi there,

I've been reading and reading all of the posts on this lovely forum and now I've got myself in a real muddle and I wondered if you could help.

I'm 27 with combi skin that is a bit dull and gets easily blocked.

I've worked out that I need to use a vitamin C serum (currently using Jan Marini) and am
using Skinsceuticals B5 gel and a sunblock in the morning. [Feeling quite proud of myself Surprised ]

What I now need is some sort of resurfacing (I think that's what I mean!) product for night time use. Basically something that gets rid of all of my dead skin and makes me look gorgeous and radiant!

Ok - here's where I confess that I now realise that I don't know the difference between
AHA, BHA, Glycolic , Retin-A etc etc

Are there any resources that list ingredients in laymans terms??

Also any recommendations for a nighttime treatment for me?? I have been using the Jan Marini Bioclear cream but it is just too strong for my skin and I have given up using it after three weeks of stinging and skin flaking.

Many, many thanks for all of your help,

Honey x
betterat40
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Wed Dec 01, 2004 3:57 pm      Reply with quote
I think the basiaandcarol.com site has a nice explanation of the ingredients/treatments you are asking about....

AHA- glycolics/lactic acid: help to refine surface texture and smooth skin by dissolving the "glue" that keeps dead skin cells stuck together. Good for hyperpigmentation, fine wrinkles, rough surface texture.

BHA- salicylic acid: helps to unclog pores by exfoliating inside the pore. Good for acne.

Retin-A= Tretinoin: Greatly increases cell turnover at a deep level inside the skin. Can repair sun damage, thickens the skin so fine wrinkles disappear. Good for keeping pores "open" so cystic acne can be treated.

That's all I know as a rank amateur! I alternate my Retin-A cream with an AHA cream/serum each night.

You can use AHA/BHA's during the day but you must use sunscreen with them.
farouk
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Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:00 pm      Reply with quote
Hi honey

I cant answer all of your questions but I think I know a really good product out there that might be good for you - Dermalogica's Skin Renewal Booster. And because its Dermalogica, you cant really go to wrong! Very Happy

Check ebay for a bargain because I know this is quite pricy. Ive been using it on and off for a while and its pretty amazing and resurfacing the skin. Should really have done a review ages ago but I never seem to find the time (euphemism for pure laziness Laughing )

HTH

Farouk
Honey
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Wed Dec 01, 2004 4:26 pm      Reply with quote
Hello,

Wow - super speedy replies - thank you!

Aha - so glycolic / lactic / AHAs are all the same sort of thing and salicylic / BHAs are the same. Suddenly all of the posts I've been reading on here make much more sense. Thank you betterat40.

I think that I'm probably after a mild AHA / BHA combo - the Dermalogica booster does look good. Thanks Farouk!

Do you know anywhere that lists the concentrations of the different ingredients (was going to try to compare to the Jan Marini to see if it's milder). Even the dermalogica website doesn't list the percentages.

Ok - off to do some more research.

Many thanks, Honey x
emma1
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Thu Dec 02, 2004 1:27 am      Reply with quote
Hi Honey,
I use Paula Begoun's AHA lotion every second night - I really like it.

Emma x
marika
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Fri Dec 03, 2004 1:12 pm      Reply with quote
Honey, percentage alone of AHA or BHA does not tell you as much as you may suspect about the product.

You also need to know the pH before you can determine how active the product will be and the vehicle, which can affect the amount of and rate at which the active will be delivered to the skin.

Unbuffered AHAs have very low pHs. For cosmetic use, they are partially neutralized: reacted with a small quanitty of an alkaline substance to raise the pH and decrease the free acid value (i.e. activity).

Two products with the same concentration of glycolic, say 10%, can have very different effects on the skin. A product at 10% glycolic, pH 3.2 with a water-alcohol vehicle will be much more exfoliating than a 10% glycolic at pH 5.0 in an emollient base.
jcw
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Fri Dec 03, 2004 6:38 pm      Reply with quote
La Prairie Retexturising booster is said to have AHA and BHA in it. I have heard good reviews from others.
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