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When to apply AHAs/BHAs, Serums, Moisturisers, Oils?

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MissCleopatra
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Sun Aug 22, 2010 2:25 pm      Reply with quote
OK, so i just discovered my skin does NOt like going without it's daily dose of AHAs & BHAs.

I just changed to an SAS skincare regime:
*CHAS serum and Anti-Aging cream with Resveratrol for day.
*ACV Toner, LMC serum and Twilight cream for night.

I stopped using my Paula's Choice 2% BHA Gel (looove this!) and my Alpha Hydrox Enhanced Cream (10% Glycolic Acid), due to me not knowing how to incorporate them into my new night-time regime - i dont know if you *can* use the BHA Gel and AHA cream over (or under) the LMC serum and Twilight Cream? - or would it affect the absorption of the SAS actives i just spent $$ on?

My 2nd question is about when to apply oil to my above routine (at night) - I have read advice of using oil as the very last step, after all seruums and creams (in my case LMC serum, Twilight cream.. and possibly BHA gel & AHA cream too if anyone can find a place for them back into my routine?).
I've also heard suggestions that you should use oil before creams due to there being waxes in creams and the oil not penetrating the skin to moisturise it if you layer it above these waxes.
Im so confused?
Can anyone advise me what order i should be layering all my nightime products, please?

Thanks sooo much ladies. xxxxxxxxxxxxx

_________________
Skintype: 30s, combo/oily, dehydrated, dull, possible SD (lots of surface oil but dryer/tighter/flaky below on t-zone), large pores, congestion, uneven texture, first signs of ageing, deep naso-labial folds, fine lines & dark undereye circles. Also addressing acute stretchmarks on stomach & hips due to pregnancy & weight loss.
MissCleopatra
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Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:34 pm      Reply with quote
Just to make things a little clearer my two questions are regarding which order to layer night-time skincare products:

1). At what point should i apply BHA Gel and AHA cream? ...
Before everything else? (serum, creams, oil),
After serum and before creams & oil?
After serum and cream, but before oil?
Or as the very last layer, after everything?

2). At what point should i apply carrier oils? (for extra moisture)...
(options as above).

Regards the oil, iv been using it as the very last layer, over serum and creams - but i did hear that some others use oils before creams, due to the creams containing waxes which would prevent the skin absorbing the oils moisture?
I dont want to prevent any actives from my serums or creams being absorbed into my skin - but i dont want the oil to just sit ontop of my skin doing nothing, either.

Can anyone please help me with these two questions? Id be so grateful. xxxxx

EDIT: As much as i LOVE my new SAS regime i desperately need to re-instate BHA Gel and AHA cream (or another form of AHAs/BHAs?) to my routine.. fast! - i just looked in the mirror and im coming out in LOADS of little spots/blocked pores under the skin. Im so upset - it 'might' be the Camellia oil i tried for the 1st time last night, but i reeeeally need to find a place for AHAs & BHAs in my SAS routine asap - help someone, please? Crying or Very sad xxx

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Skintype: 30s, combo/oily, dehydrated, dull, possible SD (lots of surface oil but dryer/tighter/flaky below on t-zone), large pores, congestion, uneven texture, first signs of ageing, deep naso-labial folds, fine lines & dark undereye circles. Also addressing acute stretchmarks on stomach & hips due to pregnancy & weight loss.
Loumomofthree
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Thu Aug 26, 2010 5:53 pm      Reply with quote
bump...
wish I could help...
SusieQ
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Sat Aug 28, 2010 8:24 am      Reply with quote
MissCleopatra wrote:
OK, so i just discovered my skin does NOt like going without it's daily dose of AHAs & BHAs.

I just changed to an SAS skincare regime:
*CHAS serum and Anti-Aging cream with Resveratrol for day.
*ACV Toner, LMC serum and Twilight cream for night.

I stopped using my Paula's Choice 2% BHA Gel (looove this!) and my Alpha Hydrox Enhanced Cream (10% Glycolic Acid), due to me not knowing how to incorporate them into my new night-time regime - i dont know if you *can* use the BHA Gel and AHA cream over (or under) the LMC serum and Twilight Cream? - or would it affect the absorption of the SAS actives i just spent $$ on?

My 2nd question is about when to apply oil to my above routine (at night) - I have read advice of using oil as the very last step, after all seruums and creams (in my case LMC serum, Twilight cream.. and possibly BHA gel & AHA cream too if anyone can find a place for them back into my routine?).
I've also heard suggestions that you should use oil before creams due to there being waxes in creams and the oil not penetrating the skin to moisturise it if you layer it above these waxes.
Im so confused?
Can anyone advise me what order i should be layering all my nightime products, please?

Thanks sooo much ladies. xxxxxxxxxxxxx


Misscleo, I use the PC BHA in the cream form and love it too! I also have the Alpha Hydrox cream and lotion. I alternate these products. You can use glycolics over your BHA though. I have done this but really see no difference compared to useing them as stand alone. If you want to do this, thin layer of BHA first, and your glycolic or AHA over. As for the other products, personally I think you don't have to use them. Your BHA and or AHA is enough. Just my opinion though. HTHs!

I came back to edit this. I forgot to say, that PC is on Facebook. You can ask your question there and get other responses too from their CS people and Paula! PC is also on You Tube with great videos for product application.
jasminerosey
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Sat Aug 28, 2010 12:09 pm      Reply with quote
Miss Cleopatra,

it's great to get other's advice(especially directly from the creators of the products!)...and especially when you're first starting out w/a regime....but also nice to experiment on your own after a while...see what works best for your unique skin.

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66 , living(raw) food 30 years, botanical oils, several facial exercise programs & massage techniques & acupressure & shiatsu techniques for face and body, energy skincare like Ageless Secret and several ormus products used internally and externally, love vaculifter, ocm, occasional face brushing, clarisonic as needed.
lucretia_zen
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Thu Sep 09, 2010 3:34 am      Reply with quote
How Do I Use an AHA or BHA Exfoliant?

Quote:
1). At what point should i apply BHA Gel and AHA cream? ...
Before everything else? (serum, creams, oil),
After serum and before creams & oil?
After serum and cream, but before oil?
Or as the very last layer, after everything?



Hi MissCleopatra, I found this advice on the web and thought you might be interested....


* You can apply an AHA or BHA product once or twice a day.
* You can also apply either of these around the eye area but not on the eyelid or directly under the eye.
* Apply the AHA or BHA product after your face is cleansed and after your toner has dried.
* Once the AHA or BHA has been absorbed, you can apply any other product in your routine, such as moisturizer, serum, eye cream, sunscreen, and/or foundation.
* If you're using a topical prescription product such as Renova, other retinoids, or any of the topical prescription products for rosacea, apply the BHA or AHA first.

Here's the link for the entire article. http://www.cosmeticscop.com/exfoliate-for-bright-smooth-and-radiant-skin.aspx


Quote:
2). At what point should i apply carrier oils? (for extra moisture)...
(options as above)


I often apply mine before my moisturizer and wait for it to sink in, before I add my moisturizer. Sometimes I even mix them together. I'm only adding my two cents on what I do, hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge will chime in..

Here is the link to a page I found on the web that might be of some interest?
http://www.vivawoman.net/2009/11/24/is-oil-better-than-a-moisturizing-lotion/

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Female, 37, brunette, Fair/medium Skin. European background. Combination skin, that becomes sensitive & reactive when emotionaly & physically stressed & also reacts terribly to heat and wind. Plant your own garden, decorate your own soul, instead of waiting for someone to send you flowers. Smile
RussianSunshine
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Thu Sep 09, 2010 5:28 am      Reply with quote
MissCleopatra (cute nickname!),

Check this tread out:
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=18360


Product Application by type

This is a rough guide for product application, based on type/absorbency. This is for products that are not pH dependant, nor limited by activity type. The thickness of a product, dictates its placement. You cannot apply a think product (like a liquid) over a thick product (like a cream) and expect it to absorb well. The cream can be a barrier to the thinner product.

-Cleanser (may need to wait before exfoliate, if pH is a concern)
(optional pH adjusting product could be used here, after cleansing) before acid)
-Exfoliate (usually requires a wait time)
-Toner (Liquid water like products, such as toner/treatment solutions, liquid DMAE)
-Serum (Copper Serum, treatment Serums, DMAE thicker products)
-Gel (DMAE, deffrin)
-Oils (Emu, Jojoba, Almond, etc)
-Creams
-Sunscreen
-Foundations

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fairy_dreams
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Thu Sep 09, 2010 4:09 pm      Reply with quote
I'm not too sure about your particular situation, but I always put on the oils before anything else. I find that it absorbs better when I don't have anything extra on top of my skin.
sister sweets
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Thu Sep 09, 2010 10:16 pm      Reply with quote
I use exfoliants such as AHA, lactic acid...etc after cleansing and I always use a cleanser with a balanced Ph.
I put on the exfolient and allow it to do it's thing for minimum of 20 minutes and then proceed with the rest of the goodies. It would work either AM or PM. I use mine before Copper Peptides. Some nights I will put on exfoliant and let that be it.

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Enjoying dermalogica with my ASG and Pico toner ** Please note: I have voluntarily and without pay participated in promotional videos for Ageless Secret Gold and the Neurotris Pico Emmy event.
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