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Exfoliation with BHA and AHA?
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Moonlight191991
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Sat Jul 23, 2011 11:28 pm      Reply with quote
everyone says that exfoliation is a critical step in skin care but other people seem to say that exfoliation may actually harm the skin. there are so many opinions on the subject that I'm so confused.
anyway paula begoun the cosmetics cop if you heard of her said that we should exfoliate everyday using BHA and AHA. I'm like WHAT??!! salicylic acid and glycolic acid on my face everyday?? doesn't that make my face resistant after a while?
so my questions here are:

1) if I got a neutrogena acne stress control gel product (NOT a scrub) that contains 2% salicylic acid .. do I need a scrub or this product will just do the whole exfoliation process for me?and do I use it everyday or just once ot twice a week?
2) a friend of mine told me that there are 2 types of exfoliation deep and shallow..shallow should be done twice everyday and deep is to be done twice a week to clean the pores inside out. how can i know the difference between this and that in terms of products to purchase??
3) does having a BHA product mean I don't need an AHA product or exfoliant??

Yeah I'm so messed up because I'm so new with skin care. it's a broad subject really..
fongflyer5
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:46 am      Reply with quote
It really depends on your skin type what product you use. Do you have problem skin & breakouts? If you do then a BHA product would work better for your skin type. It would control the oil production and breakout better. AHA suits normal to dry skin types. Both AHA and BHA are a form of exfoliation. It does help to remove and exfoliate the cells on your face, turning over the dead cells quicker. The strength you choose depends on what your skin can tolerate as does the frequency of use. You will be surprise once you start using them the difference it can make to your skin. You don't use these products twice a day, nor would you use both. You just need to chose one depending on your skin type. As for a scrub, that's completely different to AHA and BHA. Once you start using these, they work more effectively than a scrub. These are not peels, these are light exfoliation that work by loosing the dead cells on the surface of the skin, it will really help to give your skin better clarity, texture.

It's really a good product to incorporate into your skin care regime. And, NO they don't harm your skin, you will be surprise how much your skin will benefit from them. So give it a try !
GirlieGirl
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 9:40 am      Reply with quote
I don't recall Paula saying to use both. Just pick which ever one your skin would benefit most from. You can use every day or less.

You skin may or may not like a manual scrub. You can try it out and see. I would only use 1-2 a week though.
LightenNlift
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 11:06 am      Reply with quote
It really depends on your skin type and how well you tolerate it. Personally, Glycolic Acid 10 to 15% daily exfoliation in a serum gets rid of blackheads and clears my pores very well with an overall nice skin texture and smooth contours. But for others, BHA/Salicylic Acid may do a better job as long as its pH is 1.9 to 3 so that it can penetrate the actual blackheads and dissolve them. For dry skin types, lactic acid works wonders.
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 1:32 pm      Reply with quote
I use Lactic Acid instead of Glycolic for exfoliating. It is safer and gives you better skin turnover. Skin turnover is the reason why you should be using a exfoliator. As we age it takes much longer to completely replace the old skin. You want to increase that process to mimic what we had when we were young. I have posted a link below from Dianayvonne.com that explains some things about acids.
http://www.dianayvonne.com/category/16.aboutpeels/
LightenNlift
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 3:21 pm      Reply with quote
grhawk,
excuse me grhawk. Glycolic Acid is superior to Lactic Acid in terms for greater cell turnover. Lactic Acid is the mildest in the AHA scale of acids but it is great for sensitive, dry skin. BOTH glycolic and lactic are SAFE. Lactic comes from sour milk and glycolic from sugar.
fongflyer5
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 4:21 pm      Reply with quote
I have to agree with LightenNift in terms of acid strength, latic is more gentler than glycolic. Which one you prefer to use depends on your skin type and how your skin responses to them. The PH level is also really important, if it's the wrong level it won't penetrate into the skin and therefore won't be effective enough to work. Incorporating them into your skin regime really does help with skin turnover
BYRG
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:08 pm      Reply with quote
I am confused by this debate as well of if acids are beneficial or damaging. I mean is it an established fact that it significantly damages the protective barrier and causes inflammation? Cause if it does those things then it seems like they would be right about it being damaging yes?

I have a 30% glycolic peel and now I'm confused if I should be using it or not. And does retin a and vitamin c also cause more sun damage etc?

And what about manual or enzyme exfoliation? Does that cause inflamation and remove the protective barrier as well? Scrubs or shaving?

http://www.osmosisskincare.com/Research/ChronicExfoliation.aspx

http://www.beautyatanyageisbeauty.com/2011/06/over-use-of-glycolic-acids-causes-premature-aging/
loribar
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 7:21 pm      Reply with quote
Moonlight, I've been using Jan Marini's Bioglycolic Bioclear (glycolic acid and 2% salycilic acid) almost every day for years as part of my am skincare routine. It makes a big difference in blackheads, skin texture, and moisture levels for me.

I use retin-a for nightime sloughing and retexturizing.

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Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:01 pm      Reply with quote
BYRG wrote:
I am confused by this debate as well of if acids are beneficial or damaging. I mean is it an established fact that it significantly damages the protective barrier and causes inflammation? Cause if it does those things then it seems like they would be right about it being damaging yes?

I have a 30% glycolic peel and now I'm confused if I should be using it or not. And does retin a and vitamin c also cause more sun damage etc?

And what about manual or enzyme exfoliation? Does that cause inflamation and remove the protective barrier as well? Scrubs or shaving?

http://www.osmosisskincare.com/Research/ChronicExfoliation.aspx

http://www.beautyatanyageisbeauty.com/2011/06/over-use-of-glycolic-acids-causes-premature-aging/


Byrg - any form of chronic inflamtion is not good. If you don't over do it, exfoliation can be beneficial.
Quote:
I have a 30% glycolic peel and now I'm confused if I should be using it or not.
Your glycolic peel, if used occasionally, might be good for you - but you have to know how your skin reacts to it. Prolonged redness from it would not be good.

Quote:
And does retin a and vitamin c also cause more sun damage etc?

Retin A can cause irritation and redness and that is the concern most of us worry about. Some people just cannot tolerate it. THAT would be chronic inflamation. It is also this irritation that causes rise to the advice of sunscreen use with Retin A. Retin A can cause the skin to be more sensitive to the sun during new users initial phase of introduction to the product and that is usually due to that irritation that a lot of people get w/ it when they start out using it. Once your skin adjusts to using Retin A, it should not longer get red and irritated and it should also not cause as much sun sensitivity. Sunscreens should always be used for precautions, though.

And, Retin A is actually known to REMOVE sun damaged skin - smoothing out the fine lines that sundamage gives and evening out the skintone.

Vitamin C is a known anti-oxidant and can help mitigate sundamage. It does have a low pH and can possibly cause irritation in some skin types because of it's high acidity. But, it is a good product to use to overcome sun damage.

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early 60's, fair skin, combo skin, very few fine lines, vertical lip lines, crows feet & 11's, fighting aging! Using Palancia HF, dermarollers, CPs, Retin A Micro, Safetox, AALS, Clairsonic
Moonlight191991
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Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:03 pm      Reply with quote
Hey BYRG,
I think I can safely agree on the damage part but for the higher concentrations of these acids. Don't use the 30% glycolic acid unless you really do have severe acne and try to do it under supervision from a dermatologist especially that you haven't tried it before it can sting and burn alot and some people react adversely to it. also I recommend starting off with the lowest concentration and building from there to see which concentration best suits your skin. I know that because there is my friend who was going to try these treatments but her dermatologist said she's got a skin too thin and her brother's face burned under the effect of the acid but it healed few days later. also, there are actresses in our country that have excitedly jumped to these concentrated chemical peels for instant results only to find themselves stuck at home treating all the burns in their faces.

I guess as for the fruit enzymatic peels I'm not very sure if they're harmful or not but you can sure look up the ingredients for better understanding of the stuff.
as for retin A and vitamin C don't use them together use vitamin C in the morning and use Retin A as a night treatment. using both of them together at one time may actually harm your skin alot. also Retin A is not harmful at all but it can cause severe drying and peeling so make sure you use a good moisturizer. Retin A will help you delay aging signs so make sure you moisturize and make sure of course that you wear at least good spf of 20 even if you don't use these products to help reduce sun damage and aging signs..
I hope this helped in anyway
Moonlight191991
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Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:36 am      Reply with quote
Thanks alot for your post. really informative.
you said that they work more effectively than a scrub. I wanted to ask you though, I noticed there's alot of rave on dermalogica daily microfoliant about how it makes alot of difference in skin care routines and i wanted to try it. if I'm going to incorporate 2% salicylic acid product (neutrogena acne stress control gel) once or twice a week can I use the microfoliant as an everyday scrub or will that be too much exfoliation?
fongflyer5
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Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:52 am      Reply with quote
If you intend to use a 2% salicylic product once or twice a week, then the dermalogica daily microfoliant shouldn't be used daily. Although it's quite gentle it's too much exfoliation. I think once or twice a week is adequate. The salicylic will be much more effective.
Moonlight191991
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Tue Jul 26, 2011 5:03 am      Reply with quote
fongflyer5 wrote:
If you intend to use a 2% salicylic product once or twice a week, then the dermalogica daily microfoliant shouldn't be used daily. Although it's quite gentle it's too much exfoliation. I think once or twice a week is adequate. The salicylic will be much more effective.


Well then I guess I'm gonna postpone ordering dermalogica's microfoliant until I see what results I can get with neutrogena. Thank you fongflyer SmileSmile
fongflyer5
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Wed Jul 27, 2011 1:37 am      Reply with quote
Moonlight191991

I think you have chosen the right path, by easing a BHA product into your routine. I think once you start you may find you won't need to buy the Daily microfoliant. There isn't anything that special about it. Good luck I hope the BHA helps you
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Wed Jul 27, 2011 3:56 am      Reply with quote
I use black soap to exfoliate. It is made from argan oil and eucalyptus oil. It is a soft soap. I use it all over my body and on my face. It is really good for removing dirt and grime on necks and backs, elbows, knees. I use a white mask on my face after, which I also recommend. Both are very natural products.
Moonlight191991
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Sat Jul 30, 2011 1:30 pm      Reply with quote
thank you sooo much Smile
I do have one last question though (LOL I promise it's the last one). I read on another forum that you have to apply an anti-bacterial such as tea trea oil after using a BHA product to ensure that the pore will not be dominated with bacteria thus causing something new to emerge to the surface. I just wanted to hear that again to make sure.
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Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:45 pm      Reply with quote
Based on your skin type there is a choice of two active that should be used every second day (wouldn't recommend every day) AHA is helpful for antiaging whilst BHA is helpful for acne prone skin.

Apparently Paula's customer service is very good, maybe they can help you with choosing the correct products.
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Sun Jul 31, 2011 12:30 am      Reply with quote
Moonlight191991 wrote:
thank you sooo much Smile
I do have one last question though (LOL I promise it's the last one). I read on another forum that you have to apply an anti-bacterial such as tea trea oil after using a BHA product to ensure that the pore will not be dominated with bacteria thus causing something new to emerge to the surface. I just wanted to hear that again to make sure.


I have never heard of that before though it seems logical. But then again, you can't completely stop bacteria from reaching your skin anyways.
Moonlight191991
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Sun Jul 31, 2011 1:48 am      Reply with quote
I guess it's not about killing the normal flora of the skin since that would really promote skin conditions because normal flora are very important to keep for the skin's sake just like our intestine's bacteria but, I guess it's more like sealing the pores to make sure they dont get immediately colonized with strains that'll cause inflammation and redness.
************ but the thing is, why use an antibacterial if BHA is known to be an efficient one? that is the question. ***********
irongoddess
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Tue Aug 30, 2011 7:54 pm      Reply with quote
I've tried glycolic peels by a derm. Didn't really do much for me. Maybe it's because of my skin type--oily with bouts of acne and blackheads. Recently, I've been using VMV Id 2% BHA lotion nightly and it has dramatically improved my skin. It made waking up in the morning pure joy.
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Tue Aug 30, 2011 8:29 pm      Reply with quote
I just want to say that there is a "drop off" point when it comes to using exfoliants. Meaning after 3 months of using I would back off on it for another 3 months, because your skin won't get any better, since you've got perfect skin after 3 months of exfoliating.
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