If you were 35 again
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:23 am

I was wondering what your recommendations would be for a total beginner for face care, mostly preventative, though I do have the start of some wrinkles.

I'm fair skinned and freckle and burn easily so sunscreen has always been a part of my life. I occasionally wash and moisturize my face with olive oil, and wear very little makeup (just shadow and mascara and lip gloss).

I have a worry crease between the brows that is rather new, faint crows feet starting, and little laugh lines around my mouth. The pores on either side of the bridge of my nose are larger than I remember them being. I do have skin damage on my chest, shoulders, and face, from several bad burns in my teens before I finally realized I would never be tan and stopped trying.

My skin is all over, very dry. I can go 3 days without needing to shower. I moisturize with drugstore brands like Gold Bond. Acne is not an issue.

I'm not worried about the little wrinkles, but wonder what I should be doing to take better care of my skin.

If you are older now, and could go back to being 35, what would you add to a skin routine for payoff results later on?

Thanks!

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:48 am

Retin A, topical C (or combo antioxidants), and sunscreen (physical). I would not waste my money on the rest. In my opinion they are the most proven anti-agers we have at the moment.

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 10:51 am

Morning:
Cleanse
Vitamin C
Moisturizer
Sunscreen

Evening:
Cleanse
Retin A or a retinol product

Occassionally (maybe 1 to 2 times per week):
AHA's (something like Kate Somerville's Clinic To Go pads or Dr. Gross alpha beta peel pads)

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:06 am

IMO address the dryness/ dehydration. This can make a big difference to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, means your skin is better able to protect itself from wind/ UV/ pollution etc, and should mean you are able to slowly add in more aggressive topicals without your skin freaking. Apologies if some of the following is repeated from your previous thread! For cleansing choose lotions over foaming products, for exfoliating use a microfibre or muslin cloth or light lactic acid peels (hydrating and beneficial for sun damage).

There are various elements in the skin barrier that help it retain moisture: humectants such as lactic acid, urea, glycosaminoglycans like hyaluronic acid; lipids such as long chain saturated fatty acids (esp. stearic and palmitic), cholesterol and ceramides. A good drugstore cream to help replace these is CeraVe, but if you prefer natural products you might try products containing lanolin (cholesterol), unrefined shea butter (stearic acid) or olive squalane (sebum is rich in squalene). Generally it is most effective to combine a humectant with an emollient/ occlusive lipid. Be wary of oleic acid (olive oil, avocado, emu and others) as some research suggests this can affect keratinisation and may contribute to irritation.

Once your skin is less dry/ dehydrated, you might add in vitamin C and a retinoid as these have the most research backing them. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate is less irritating than L-ascorbic acid yet equally effective; retinyl palmitate and retinol are much gentler than retinaldehyde and Retin-A BUT less effective. You might choose a zinc oxide sunscreen like Devita which is one of the most hydrating and gets positive reviews for both texture and appearance after application. Some people use the SPF30 body block instead of the SPF30 face moisturiser as the ingredients are very similar but the price is not! Many of Devita's products are based on aloe vera which has various anti-ageing properties and is an effective humectant (rich in glycosaminoglycans).

HTH! Wink

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:18 am

Well, Facial Exercises OF COURSE!!!

Fri Feb 17, 2012 11:53 am

Okay, remember I'm a total newbie! Brand names would be oh so helpful, especially things I can get OTC as an Rx is out of the question with our terrible insurance.

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 12:01 pm

Retin A - order from outside the country.

Sunscreen. Brand: Burnout (must have for water play, including snow) Juice Beauty tinted moisturizer with sunscreen.

Oh, and products at http://www.ncnproskincare.com = AWESOME!!!!

Diet: Paleo

My sigi tells you what facial exercise program I'd recommend Wink

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 12:45 pm

navyblue wrote:

Okay, remember I'm a total newbie! Brand names would be oh so helpful, especially things I can get OTC as an Rx is out of the question with our terrible insurance.

For my post: CeraVe or Weleda baby calendula face cream, any high percentage aloe vera gel, DIY vitamin C serum (see recipes on DIY board sticky), Devita for sunscreen, Devita also offer products containing retinoids and C, including in their sunscreens. For retinol you can DIY or Green Cream/ NCN seems to be well thought of, and they both offer different strengths that you can work your way up. With dry skin you are at higher risk of negative reactions so I'd look for short ingredients lists, not products crammed full of unproven plant extracts or chemical sunscreens.

free skin care · Fri Feb 17, 2012 9:26 pm

I've had better luck with Green Cream than the various retin A products I've tried. Green cream comes in a strength for sensitive skin (level 3) which may be a great starting point for you.

Sat Feb 18, 2012 8:07 pm

Thank you, I'm so overwhelmed, and feel funny mixing my own stuff. I went to the drugstore to try to find some of what was suggested but I'm a bit lost. I could see some retin a products but no vitamin c products. I'm trying to stay away from parabens... augh.

I'll go over your recommendations again and see what I can find online.

I'm terrible at remembering to do anything with my face before I fall into bed, just sleeping in the little makeup I wear. I'm better at a morning routine. Do you think a nighttime routine is super vital?

Good thoughts on dealing w/the dry skin, I think it's improving a ton w/ my Eat to Live diet and fish oils. Not so itchy, and the patches of excema on my inner elbows are fading.

free skin care · Sat Feb 18, 2012 11:02 pm

1. Retin A
2. Devita sunblock
3. An antioxidant serum or cream. Consider Devita or Paula's Choice.

free skin care · Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:05 am

Firefox,

Where did you hear about oleic acid potentially having some negative results for the skin? Man, 'cuz my skin really seems to love avocado oil and that would then be a bummer... Is it just suggestive evidence at this point?

free skin care · Sun Feb 19, 2012 9:45 am

ClaudiaFE wrote:

Well, Facial Exercises OF COURSE!!!

Diet and good quality sleep- 110% agree!!

As for skin care here are my musts:

- Product with Niacin (usually NIA 24 range)- apparently its the best ingredient that prevents water loss from the skin. Couple with rose water and squalane, and I'm glowing in the frost of winter.

- Great antioxidant serums. Faves: C/E Ferulic/ Revale/ Prevage and PSF Berry Beneficial.

- Sunscreen: I don't have the patience for physical sunscreens. I use a stable, and moderate strength chemical sunscreen- La Roche Posay SPF 15 daily moisturizer with Mexoryl XS is a great choice.

Avene's Retinaldehyde 3 times a week, over Vitamin c serum in the PM.

free skin care · Sun May 27, 2012 9:35 am

cm5597 wrote:

Firefox,

Where did you hear about oleic acid potentially having some negative results for the skin? Man, 'cuz my skin really seems to love avocado oil and that would then be a bummer... Is it just suggestive evidence at this point?

I was wondering this as well.

free skin care · Sun May 27, 2012 11:43 am

cm5597 wrote:

Firefox,

Where did you hear about oleic acid potentially having some negative results for the skin? Man, 'cuz my skin really seems to love avocado oil and that would then be a bummer... Is it just suggestive evidence at this point?

Sorry, missed this: note that I use the words 'may' and 'suggests'. With many skin disorders or problems one's natural skin type/ composition of sebum interacts with diet, lifestyle and skincare routine. We don't all respond the same to prescribed medication or proven topical actives like L-AA.

Many are abstracts only, but you should get the gist
http://www.nature.com/jid/journal/v124/n5/full/5602810a.html
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/6223652
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18808414
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/16382685
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9067704
http://ne.ucsd.edu/faculty/l7zhang/publications/30-JID.pdf
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20650257

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 5:02 am

cm5597 wrote:

Firefox,

Where did you hear about oleic acid potentially having some negative results for the skin? Man, 'cuz my skin really seems to love avocado oil and that would then be a bummer... Is it just suggestive evidence at this point?

First I've heard of this too - Olive Oil is also one of the most basic and well thought of oils which has been used throughout history. Avocado oil is also really wonderful and many of us here use Emu Oil - although I realise some don't like it because of the animal connection.

On the other hand, Lanolin has rather a bad reputation in the skincare industry.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 5:28 am

Keliu wrote:

First I've heard of this too - Olive Oil is also one of the most basic and well thought of oils which has been used throughout history. Avocado oil is also really wonderful and many of us here use Emu Oil - although I realise some don't like it because of the animal connection.

On the other hand, Lanolin has rather a bad reputation in the skincare industry.

Actually medical grade lanolin has a good reputation amongst those in the skincare and pharmaceutical industry who keep their knowledge up-to-date because it is virtually hypoallergenic. The myth that lanolin is allergenic came from the days when lanolin was poorly refined/ contaminated and a study showing something along the lines of 1% of people with dermatitis were allergic which ended up Chinese Whispers to 1% of the general population. HTH! Smile

"Lansinoh HPA® Lanolin is the safest, purest nipple cream and completely hypoallergenic. Lansinoh HPA® Lanolin is the only lanolin product to have received the British Allergy Foundation Seal of Approval."
http://www.lansinoh.co.uk/products/lansinoh-hpa-lanolin

"Using recent data relating to 8.25 X 10 [to the power of 5] population in three European countries the incidence of specific lanolin allergy amongst the general population is calculated to be no more than 9.7 per 10 [to the power of 6] and probably considerably less ...

The benefits of lanolin as a unique combination of emollient for the skin and W/O emulsifier have been proven beyond doubt by subjective evidence of the practical results of its use over a period of centuries (1), and by its inclusion in most national pharmacopoeia for many decades. Lanolin is more readily miscible with sebum and more penetrating than petroleum jelly (2), and a very versatile and useful carrier with good release properties for certain medicaments."
http://owndoc.com/pdf/lanolin-allergy.pdf

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 5:48 am

I was actually thinking of Lanolin being pore clogging rather than being an allergen.

http://acnetreatmentcenterwa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/pore-cloggin-ingredients.pdf

Quote:

Acetylated lanolin alcohol is used as an emollient, to soften skin, but is highly comedogenic.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetylated_lanolin_alcohol

Lanolin is an extremely popular ingredient in Asian skincare but tends to be looked down on in the West.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 6:03 am

Keliu wrote:

I was actually thinking of Lanolin being pore clogging rather than being an allergen.

http://acnetreatmentcenterwa.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/04/pore-cloggin-ingredients.pdf

Quote:

Acetylated lanolin alcohol is used as an emollient, to soften skin, but is highly comedogenic.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetylated_lanolin_alcohol

Lanolin is an extremely popular ingredient in Asian skincare but tends to be looked down on in the West.

Really Keliu your link is only three lines long and you didn't even read it! Acylated lanolin alcohol is not the same thing as lanolin, it is a fraction which has been chemically altered.
"Acetylated lanolin alcohol, sometimes known as "sheep alcohol" or wool alcohol, is a non-drying organic compound produced from lanolin, the fat of wool shearings, which has been reacted with acetic acid and a small amount of lye."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Acetylated_lanolin_alcohol

"Lanolin is also frequently, but incorrectly, referred to as ‘Wool Fat’ by many of the world’s pharmacopoeias even though it has been known for more than 150 years that lanolin is devoid of glycerides and is in fact a wax, not a fat ... Like many natural products, lanolin has a complex and variable composition. For example, a typical high purity grade of lanolin is composed predominantly of long chain waxy esters (ca. 97% by weight) the remainder being lanolin alcohols, lanolin acids and lanolin hydrocarbons."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lanolin

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 6:06 am

I actually started getting serious in my mid thirties! I started using retin-a, copper peptide (although vit. C serum would be very good too), and sunscreen. My skin is on the dry side, but I found that almost any moisterizer would do. I also started getting serious about facial exercise and exfoliation. Oh and eating more fruits and veggies and drinking water!! That has helped my skin more than any topical.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 6:13 am

Firefox7275 wrote:

Really Keliu your link is only three lines long and you didn't even read it!

Excuse me but I did read it! I simply copied and pasted the relevant text.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 6:32 am

Does an allergy to wool preclude using any kind of lanolin product?

At 35 I would say the most important things are: eat right, religious use of sunscreen and Retin A, always cleanse before bedtime, and seek a dermatologist as needed.

I'm 48 and it's a shame that when I was younger (a teen) they didn't realize the damage that the sun could do (they used to push tanning beds as the safe alternative to the sun..and we all know that the the UVA emmitted is horrible for us!). I've always taken great care of my skin, but the lack of sun knowledge has really hurt it !

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 7:24 am

navyblue wrote:

I'm terrible at remembering to do anything with my face before I fall into bed, just sleeping in the little makeup I wear. I'm better at a morning routine. Do you think a nighttime routine is super vital?

I've always been told that it's super important to go to bed with a cleansed face; an esthetician once told me that going to bed with your make-up on ages your skin of an additional 7 days... Honestly I don't know if that's proven scientifically or not, but I do know it's bad for your skin. Whenever I feel lazy before I go to bed, I think of this stat and it's enough motivation. Laughing

Also your skin loses a lot of hydration at night, so it's important to moisturize it with something stronger than what you're using during the day.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 7:45 am

navyblue wrote:

Okay, remember I'm a total newbie! Brand names would be oh so helpful, especially things I can get OTC as an Rx is out of the question with our terrible insurance.

Generic Retin-A is about $50 at Wal-Mart without insurance and a tube will last longer than a month.

free skin care · Mon May 28, 2012 3:57 pm

Keliu wrote:

Firefox7275 wrote:

Really Keliu your link is only three lines long and you didn't even read it!

Excuse me but I did read it! I simply copied and pasted the relevant text.

Actually you said "Lanolin being pore clogging rather than being an allergen" backed it up by a Wikipedia entry for a totally separate compound.

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