Newbie Routine, some clarification please
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Mon Jul 16, 2012 9:56 pm

I am a 60 yo w/ dry skin who just started a new skincare routine! I always just never used soap, and used moisturizers am/pm.. Need more now! Any advice is appreciated/re conflicts and use of products....(AM< PM).... for AM: 1. wash with gentle wash/using baby brush 1x per week to exfoliate 2.C E Ferulic Serum (I will add Jojoba CE Ferulic, a DYI after samples are finished). 3. AGE Interrupter anti glycolic (I also have Avon Anew Wrinkle Corrector.... when to use?) 4. B5 Serum
5. Moisturizer (I have Bare Minerals SPF 20 for normal/dry) I also have EMU Oil/ if I leave on skin and wait it soaks it up! -good primer too then! 5. ECO All Natural Sunscreen for Face SPF 30
6.. Foundation SPF 20/Makeup (never used liquid before for foundation using Lancome Regenerist- getting used to it, skin needs it now.) FOR PM BEFORE BED:
1. Wash face with gentle wash/sugar added lightly to exfoliate. 2. ROC Eye Cream around crows feet/under eyes 3. Either Avon Anew Wrinkle Corrector OR AGE Interrupter ?? 4. Can I use a mixture of: Uns. Butter/Vit A Capsules (10000 IU) and Rosehip oil on face then for low retin A that's actually healthy? OR Is it worth getting Tretinoin Gel USP 0.05% 20g (haven't purchased it yet).... Should I also use the B5 serum here/then moisturizer: EMU after that? I have pretty skin/always have/even toned... but pores are coming in a little/ and wrinkles indeed are deeper than ever/dryness an issue. Thank you! Very Happy

free skin care · Tue Jul 17, 2012 1:30 am

Welcome!

First thing I would say is you might intially work on barrier repair, get your skin plump and hydrated before adding in the more aggressive or irritating products. I am a big fan of all your products/ actives working double duty for you. Do be sure to eat an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant rich diet.

Don't over-exfoliate or use multiple known irritants, this damages the skin's barrier function which can leave it more dry and dehydrated. You shouldn't need to exfoliate twice daily (brush, sugar), less so if you are using acids (vitamin C, Retin-A). If you exfoliate with AHAs such as lactic or glycolic acids you can get an extra anti-ageing/ hydrating effect.

Not sure what you mean by a gentle wash but many are not as gentle as they claim. If you prefer foaming products ensure yours is pH ~5.5, is not based on alkaline soaps or sulphate surfactants, preferably no anionic surfactants because all these strip the lipids from the skin barrier. Lotion cleaners or oil cleansers are gentler and many can still be rinsed with water if you like that clean feeling. Definitely don't scrub product that don't meet my suggestions into your skin with brushes or sugar. Don't overwet your skin/ soak in the shower because this can flush out the skin's natural moisturising factors.

Thirdly as we age the natural lipids in the stratus corneum deplete (cholesterol, ceramides, stearic and palmitic acids). Plant oils are not good source of these, if you like natural ingredients look for medical grade lanolin, egg or soy lecithin, unrefined west African shea butter. Personally I avoid oils rich in oleic acid and limit those rich in linoleic acid because both may contribute to irritation and inflammation and this, in turn, may damage the barrier function and/ or contribute to the ageing process.

Whichever anti-ageing actives you opt for it's important to use at research proven concentrations and to stick with them for a period of time. IMO there is no point in layering three serums, you could end up with silicones or oils blocking the next product or changing the pH so that the actives don't absorb. Many commercial anti-ageing products and eye creams are primarily silicones (-cone, -conol, -xane) or humectants to temporarily smooth and plump the skin so do read the ingredients. As you have identified retinoids and vitamin C are an excellent combination. Another synergistic and very gentle combination is kinetin-niacinamide-N-acetyl glucosamime which you could DIY. Some serum recipes use lecithin as an emulsifier so you could get an extra 'dose' of barrier repair, niacinamide boosts ceramide production as well as being anti-ageing.

IMO if you would like to use Retin-A choose a gentler form of vitamin C than L-ascorbic acid, such as MAP or AA2G. If you want something gentler than Retin-A you might go for retinol or retinaldehyde. Retinyl palmitate is the gentlest and least active of all the retinoids. These recipes are all based on published research, the actives are at the correct pH and percentage for results. Be sure any recipe you choose uses s scale, it is impossible to accurately measure powders with a teaspoon.
http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/seakinnianag-serum.html
http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/map-10-serum-light-lotion.html
http://skinessentialactives.blogspot.co.uk/2012_05_01_archive.html

free skin care · Tue Jul 17, 2012 7:31 am

I would skip the sugar scrub at night and try the lowest retin-a, I think it is .025%. And I would use the cream retin-a not gel as I believe the gel can be more drying.

Wed Jul 18, 2012 5:11 pm

Quote:

First thing I would say is you might intially work on barrier repair

I just purchased CereVe hydrating cleanser (I didn't know if the Boots 7 was really cleaning and doing this), for that purpose. Last step in routine in pm will also be the CerVe PM cream, which notes that the barrier layer is protected with their products.

Quote:

Definitely don't scrub product that don't meet my suggestions into your skin with brushes or sugar.

Taking note of that and other post.... no more sugar or brush- out for both!

Quote:

Whichever anti-ageing actives you opt for it's important to use at research proven concentrations and to stick with them for a period of time. IMO there is no point in layering three serums, you could end up with silicones or oils blocking the next product or changing the pH so that the actives don't absorb.

Noted here! SO, I will continue with my C E Ferulic (I have 6 small sample sizes, and when done will do a DYI Jojoba + CE Ferulic recipe that looks good). For A I will opt for a lower dose Retin-A or a retinoid.... can you suggest any in particular? They're expensive, and I found a gel online thats .05%, but what about this??

Quote:

try the lowest retin-a, I think it is .025%. And I would use the cream retin-a not gel as I believe the gel can be more drying.

Thank you for your help here! I was thinking of this product, cause it's a little less $$$, but won't now: Tretinoin (Generic Retin-A) Gel USP 0.05% 20g. Any suggestions as to a particular one that might work. I will use the CE Ferulic/AGE Interrupter in the am (they do go together, right?) by Skinceuticals, and then the Retinoids or low dose retin-A every other night (may be less to start). I stopped using EMU oil or but the B5 Serum locks in the moisturizers so will use that right before any moisturizers are mentioned in my routine (Day Bare Min. Moisturizer or Night CerevePM, and now have started with CereVe PM cream for my night cream (after either the CE Ferulic every other day OR the Retinoid/Retin A low dose (whatever I get) in the evening. I am not up to a DIY at this time with the $ invested in with the good products that I do have (SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic and AGE Interupter), but need to know what to get for an A. I have a recipe for butter/vit A capsules/and Rose Hip Oil, but that is not research based worthy, as said, and so I will try that when the Rose Hip oil comes in, (ordered), but really am looking for a good Retin product that won't rob the bank and is good for me. SO my routine will be simpler now:
1.Wash with CereVe Hydrating cream.
2.Blot on CE Ferulic/AGE Interrupter(do these conflict btw???) (AM/and every other PM or more depending on how the retin A works at night)2a. B5 serum for locking in next step.
3.Day Moisturizer (Bare Minerals SPF 20 Normal/Dry Formula) for AM followed by SPF Suncreen by ECO for the face/SPF Lancome Regnenerist Foundation.
or
3.Night Moisturizer: CereVe PM Cream only.

Does that seem simpler, and a help to the skin's barrier function? Thank you!

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