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Babor Ampoule Concentrates FP Stop Stress Fluid (2 ml x 7 amps) Shira Shir-Organic Pure Revitalizing Pomegranate Serum (30 ml / 1 oz) Peter Thomas Roth Viz-1000 Intensive Hydrating Serum (30 ml / 1 floz)
Help with recipe formulation for all day moisture
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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Joined: 26 Aug 2012
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Thu Aug 30, 2012 5:49 pm      Reply with quote
Can anyone help me come up with a recipe that will provide ALL day moisture for very dry skin? Or maybe you could direct me to a recipe that does this? Something like Estee Lauder Hydrationist? I'm looking to keep it as all nature as possible, I don't want any questionable chemicals in it. I'd like to keep it simple with just the main ingredients that will keep my skin moist and pump Smile

I really appreciate any help you guys can give me!!!
Here are the ingredients:
Estee Lauder Hydrationist Maximum Moisture Creme For Dry Skin Product
Water, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hdi/Ppg/Polycaprolactone Crosspolymer, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-20 Acid Peg-8 Ester, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Extract, Selaginella Tamariscina (Spike Moss) Extract, Citrus Reticulata (Tangerine) Peel Extract, Punica Granatum (Pomegranate) Juice Extract, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Calcium Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment Extract, Haberlea Rhodopensis Leaf Extract, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Saccharomyces Lysate Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Leaf Extract, Humulus Lupulus (Hops) Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Pomegranate Sterols, Beta Vulgaris (Beet) Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seedcake, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Yeast Extract, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Adenosine Phosphate, Linoleic Acid, Algae Extract, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Caffeine, Cetyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Saccharide Isomerate, Peg-100 Stearate, Phytantriol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Pca, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Trehalose, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Acetyl Carnitine Hcl, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Honey, Phenyl Trimethicone, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, 7-Dehydrocholesterol, Cyclodextrin, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Atelocollagen, Chitosan, Caprylyl Glycol, Sphingolipids, Silica, Dextrin, Sodium Carbomer, Linoleic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Fragrance, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol
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Thu Aug 30, 2012 6:03 pm      Reply with quote
or if you can't help with the recipe.....
Can you give me an idea of the percentages I should use?
It's my understanding that a lotion/cream has water, oil, emulsifier, and then any additives like essential oils, vitamins etc.
Is this right?
If so can you recommend what percentage of water, oil, emulsifier and additional additives that I should do?
Also could you recommend the best emulsifier to use for dry skin? I've only used beeswax, is there anything better or should I use a combination? If I use jojoba oil would that count as an emulsifier (since it's wax) or an oil?
Also if you have any recommendations for helping it not be so shiny I'd really appreciate it.
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Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:55 pm      Reply with quote
I went through the list of ingredients and pulled on the ones I'd like to use or I think wouldn't be hard to obtain. I don't know if they are all necessary or if there are others I need to include (such as emulsifier). Can anyone give me a suggestion on how to come up with a recipe from these ingredients (taking out anything unnecessary)? I hope I was able to pick ingredients that would keep my dry skin moisturized all day long, do you think so?

Order of Ingredients goes from Most to Least amounts
Sweet Almond Oil
Jojoba Seed Oil
Caprylic Capric Triglycerides (is there a substitute I can use?)
Cucumber fruit extract
Grape Seed Extract
Rosemary Extract
Tangerine Peel Extract
Pomegranate Juice Extract
Murumuru Seed Butter substitute with Shea Butter?
Pomegranate Sterols (can i use pomegranate juice or substitute with lanolin?)
Beet Root Extract - lots of minerals, amino acids, vitamins and antioxidants
Aloe vera gel
Something high in Linoleic Acid like Borage Oil
Algae Extract - SkinAgainís product formulators now consider algae extract as a potent, active substance that can be used to normalize the skinís moisture content and provide suppleness to the epidermis (Can I get at a health food store)
Coconut Oil
Hyaluronic Acid
Chitosan - forms a protective, moisturizing, elastic film on the surface of the skin that has the ability to bind other ingredients that act on the skin. (any substitute that is inexpensive and easy to obtain?)
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Fri Aug 31, 2012 2:31 am      Reply with quote
Basically a cream or lotion consists of a water fase, an oil fase, and an emulsifier.
When you select your ingredients, note whether they are water(-soluble) or oil/fat(-soluble).

A basic cream recipe would consist of 60% water fase, and 40% oil fase (including 10% e-wax as an emulsifier).
To find the right amounts you can find on line batch calculators.

Another nice way to discover how to incorporate an active into your recipe is, to look the ingredients up on sites that sell DIY ingredients and read their instructions. That will tell you how to dissolve, using water or oil, and whether you can dissolve in the heated fase or after cooling down.

If this is your first attempt to make a face cream, I advise you to cut down on ingredients and keep it simple. Maybe try an existing recipe first before you start tweaking it. There is a nice tutorial on the SEA blog showing you how to make a cream/lotion.
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Shira Shir-Organic Pure Revitalizing Pomegranate Serum (30 ml / 1 oz) Decleor Orexcellence Kit (4 items) Revitalash V'lumine Lash Serum (4 ml / 0.135 oz)