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Oils enhance absorption of actives for anti-aging?
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Barefootgirl
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 12:29 pm      Reply with quote
I was cleaning around home and came across a torn out article from the April 2013 issue of Allure...I've look around online to corroborate this advice, not having much luck so far, so if any of you have learned of this before, please advise...

Because oils are lipophilic, they pass through the lipid layer of the skin faster, preventing water loss and plumping skin with moisture more effectively. Olive and coconut oils are great moisturizers. If you apply an oil before your anti-aging cream, the oil molecules behave like tiny Trojan horses - tricking the skin into letting active ingredients like retinol, glycolic acid and Vitamin C, deeper into the skin and closer to the collagen-producing fibroblasts, all without irritating the surface."

Thanks, BFG
Tyger
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 1:58 pm      Reply with quote
I don't think it's the oils that are lipophilic. The ingredient that has an affinity with oils is lipophilic. And I always understood all moisturisers were effective because they kept water from evaporating from the skin, not that they could cross the skin barrier and thereby assist anything along for the ride, as this article suggests.
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 2:51 pm      Reply with quote
On this forum there have been frequent mentionings of using emu oil etc. to push in the actives.
And as far as I understand vitamin A and C palmitate are more easily absorbed by the skin because of the palmitate tail - palmitate being natural to the skin. But I'm no expert. Maybe someone with more knowledge in chemistry and skin biology can elaborate?
daler
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 4:43 pm      Reply with quote
lately I have been using a mix of several oils suitable to my skin type with oil soluble actives and this is the best thing I have used so far..... I have almost no black/whites heads even in those dreaded nose pores, all squeaky clean!

In a typical emulsion oils are heated to a v high temperature for emulsification and I have no doubt that they lose potency to some extent...

also oils dont evaporate so they remain on the skin until absorbed or wiped off..
Kath91
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:31 pm      Reply with quote
Hmm..that interesting, BFG. Reading the other posts, also, just got me thinking about something I saw some time ago about the groupings of moisturizing substances and how they work.

http://www.skintherapyletter.com/2001/6.13/2.html


Sorry, I didn't see reference to a wide variety of oils in the link, but, maybe, something there can help sort it out. I'd be interested to hear what else you (and others) have found out on this topic.
bullet875
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Fri Aug 16, 2013 10:39 pm      Reply with quote
daler wrote:
lately I have been using a mix of several oils suitable to my skin type with oil soluble actives and this is the best thing I have used so far..... I have almost no black/whites heads even in those dreaded nose pores, all squeaky clean!

In a typical emulsion oils are heated to a v high temperature for emulsification and I have no doubt that they lose potency to some extent...

also oils dont evaporate so they remain on the skin until absorbed or wiped off..


What kinds of oils and active are you using? I use pomegranate and blueberry oils mixed with blueberry and green tea extract, but an going to add a lot more oils to the mix: rose hip seed, maracuja, grapeseed, tamanu, and sea buckthorn. I'm hoping that this will increase firmness and elasticity while softening some expression lines.
daler
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:14 am      Reply with quote
bullet875 wrote:
daler wrote:
lately I have been using a mix of several oils suitable to my skin type with oil soluble actives and this is the best thing I have used so far..... I have almost no black/whites heads even in those dreaded nose pores, all squeaky clean!

In a typical emulsion oils are heated to a v high temperature for emulsification and I have no doubt that they lose potency to some extent...

also oils dont evaporate so they remain on the skin until absorbed or wiped off..


What kinds of oils and active are you using? I use pomegranate and blueberry oils mixed with blueberry and green tea extract, but an going to add a lot more oils to the mix: rose hip seed, maracuja, grapeseed, tamanu, and sea buckthorn. I'm hoping that this will increase firmness and elasticity while softening some expression lines.


I am using rosehip seed oil, argan oil, pomegranate seed oil, tamanu, chia seed oil, sea buckthorn oil....

how were you able to solubilize blueberry and green tea extract in pure oils???
bullet875
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 8:28 am      Reply with quote
daler wrote:
bullet875 wrote:
daler wrote:
lately I have been using a mix of several oils suitable to my skin type with oil soluble actives and this is the best thing I have used so far..... I have almost no black/whites heads even in those dreaded nose pores, all squeaky clean!

In a typical emulsion oils are heated to a v high temperature for emulsification and I have no doubt that they lose potency to some extent...

also oils dont evaporate so they remain on the skin until absorbed or wiped off..


What kinds of oils and active are you using? I use pomegranate and blueberry oils mixed with blueberry and green tea extract, but an going to add a lot more oils to the mix: rose hip seed, maracuja, grapeseed, tamanu, and sea buckthorn. I'm hoping that this will increase firmness and elasticity while softening some expression lines.


I am using rosehip seed oil, argan oil, pomegranate seed oil, tamanu, chia seed oil, sea buckthorn oil....

how were you able to solubilize blueberry and green tea extract in pure oils???


I didn't...I just mix them in when it's time to apply them. How is the argan oil working for you? I use maracuja because heard it absorbs better than argan, but it surely is much more expensive!
daler
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:04 am      Reply with quote
bullet875 wrote:
daler wrote:
bullet875 wrote:
daler wrote:
lately I have been using a mix of several oils suitable to my skin type with oil soluble actives and this is the best thing I have used so far..... I have almost no black/whites heads even in those dreaded nose pores, all squeaky clean!

In a typical emulsion oils are heated to a v high temperature for emulsification and I have no doubt that they lose potency to some extent...

also oils dont evaporate so they remain on the skin until absorbed or wiped off..


What kinds of oils and active are you using? I use pomegranate and blueberry oils mixed with blueberry and green tea extract, but an going to add a lot more oils to the mix: rose hip seed, maracuja, grapeseed, tamanu, and sea buckthorn. I'm hoping that this will increase firmness and elasticity while softening some expression lines.


I am using rosehip seed oil, argan oil, pomegranate seed oil, tamanu, chia seed oil, sea buckthorn oil....

how were you able to solubilize blueberry and green tea extract in pure oils???


I didn't...I just mix them in when it's time to apply them. How is the argan oil working for you? I use maracuja because heard it absorbs better than argan, but it surely is much more expensive!


I have not used maracuja, I mix aragan with other oils, my oil mix absorbs pretty well... and I forgot to mention prickly pear seed oil which I started using recently, it's amazing but very expensive, it feels like liquid silk if applied in 100% strength....
bullet875
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Sat Aug 17, 2013 9:09 pm      Reply with quote
I looked up prickly pear oil..ouch, that is expensive! Do you find it to be effective?
Keliu
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 2:28 am      Reply with quote
Barefootgirl wrote:
If you apply an oil before your anti-aging cream, the oil molecules behave like tiny Trojan horses - tricking the skin into letting active ingredients like retinol, glycolic acid and Vitamin C, deeper into the skin and closer to the collagen-producing fibroblasts, all without irritating the surface."[/i]



This doesn't make sense to me - because oils are occlusive - they block water based substances. For this reason, I always apply my oil AFTER any serums.

Also, the term "lipophilic" means that the substance is oil soluble rather than water soluble (hydrophilic).

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daler
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Sun Aug 18, 2013 10:57 am      Reply with quote
bullet875 wrote:
I looked up prickly pear oil..ouch, that is expensive! Do you find it to be effective?


well, i dont use it on it's own, but the overall mix is working out pretty well... btw, this oil better be good, it's the most expensive carrier oil!
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