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A Hello and Skin Routine Help!
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SweetCreamRabbit
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Tue Oct 20, 2015 5:51 pm      Reply with quote
I finally took the plunge and joined the forum, even though I've been stalking posts on EDS for the past few months. In fact, when I started seriously delving into skincare and especially pH levels all roads seemed to lead here.

Some background about me. I got acne around the age of 12 and it increasingly got worse. So I spent most of my money on skin care and thought of myself as pretty savvy when it came to beauty. But now, at 27, I'm realising this can't be true since my skin has never really improved. I spent the last 10+ years chasing (not beautiful skin but) normal looking skin and I have nothing to show for it! :'(

My skin is (and has always been) oily and prone to acne and scarring. The acne has reduced in frequency but the scars are deep and the pores are large and literally everywhere (I look like a bruised orange). I think it's too late for my pores to shrink, at this point they've become like permanent scars. No makeup will stay on. Powder dries me out and accents my scars, pores and newly accumulated fine lines. I'm not sure why I bother but I've been wearing it since my teens and it's become a security blanket. (I hate it and don't understand why beautiful skinned people ever use it! If my skin ever becomes beautiful I will never wear it again!)

On top of that, the last year I've noticed scratch like line thingies (?!) under my eyes and I (appropriately) flipped out. (It seems that not only did I have acne for the majority of my life now I'm wrinkling early! And I've been wearing SPF since my early twenties!) So, my skin type would be... Oily, sensitive, dehydrated, patchy? And I also have those white chicken skin like bumps under my eyes and milia (is it?) on my chest and upper arms. If a dermatologist thought of it, I probably have it! And it's so overwhelming! How do you treat all that?! I feel like my diet and skincare routine has always been better than my peers. It doesn't seem fair.

(Sorry, venting...)

So, anyway. You veteran members seem to have the skin front all figured out so I'm looking forward to any advice.

Have I been overdoing it all along? Am I missing something? Is there hope for me yet? Sad
tigerlily009
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 3:12 am      Reply with quote
I don't know if I have everything all figured out but I could probably make some suggestions.
Some of the symptoms you're describing sound like you may have been too aggressive with the wrong things and maybe even have some skin barrier issues which would make attempts to repair damage impossible.
What is your current routine and what products are you currently using?
And are you still having acne outbreaks (that influences how you can approach the scarring)?

And don't worry about your pores. You can never really shrink them but just make them appear smaller...and that's always possible. The way you describe them also suggests a damaged skin barrier.
SweetCreamRabbit
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 7:25 am      Reply with quote
Thanks for the reply Tiger Lily!

I think you're right in that years of aggressive skincare have taken a toll on my skin. I hope it's fixable though.

From reading posts about the moisture barrier on the forum, it does sound like mine is damaged. But I have no idea how to choose a cream/ moisturiser that won't be greasy, clog pores.

My routine is constantly changing and I also seem to waver being overdoing it and not doing anything at all. (Irritating it and then not being able to use anything... 🙈)

I try to stay away from fragrance and alcohol and always read the ingredient list.
I've been using Paula's Choice for a while but haven't seen drastic improvements so I decided to start adding other stuff in.

When the SoKo skincare trend hit (actually before it did) I went gung ho and revamped my routine. Stupidity I didn't read about the methodology of Korean beauty routines and just piled on creams and heavily fragranced toners on my face. It took me months to recover and I pretty much threw some money down the crapper!

Right now I'm trying to incorporate retin A into my routine. This would be the first month I've ever used it and I tried to use it 3 times a week and got all red and started peeling.

I'm all out of BHAs and AHAs so I'm in the market for a new exfoliant! Any recommendations? I know BHA is best for acne care but the fine lines are making me think I need an AHA as well. (Should you put BHA/AHA under your eyes anyway?)

So, any ideas on how to use tretinoin and exfoliants together? Oh and also a clairsonic I stupidly bought and can't use because it makes me break out!

I've realise that I need to rehydrate my skin but stay away from creams/ lotions. I've been using Hadda Labos Hyaluronic Acid toner (its a gel like substance, really) but it seems to make my skin red and sticky and I'm not sure which step it should be (or if it's definitely A causing the sensitivity?!). I just finished Cellex-C's High Potency serum (LAA vitamin C) which I liked but the B5 moisturising serum (also with HA) made me sticky and gross. So I'm not sure how to hydrate my skin if HA doesn't do it. It just kinda sits there and doesn't absorb.

For a cleanser I use Alba BotanicaBotanica's Pore Purifying Pineapple Cleanser (for its low pH) but it's a bit drying so I alternate with a CeraVe cream cleanser. So the routine is chaotic and goes like this... Cleanse -> Vitamin C (wait) -> serum/s -> HL toner (don't know where to stick it so I might use it after cleansing or anywhere else!) -> SPF (which is usually greasy and annoying) -> makeup (I won't get into this but let's say it irritates and dries my skin off and didn't cover the horrible state of it).

I bought an Eminence Mist (Stone Crop) hoping to hydrate my skin between steps and again, it becomes sticky and does nothing...

Night time I remove makeup with a cleansing cloth, micellar water and then wash it. And the routine is the same only I might use a moisturizer or oil at the end if my skin is dry. Still haven't found an oil or moisturizer that's worth a damn though...

So yeah. Wow. This is a huge post. Thanks for taking the time to help! 🙏

Oh and I don't break out at much. When I do I know what happened usually (stupidity or hormones). I have scars on my cheeks mostly from breaking out in my youth (lol) but now the acne I get is along my jawline (hormonal?!) so in some way it's less noticeable and I can still use most of the products on my face.

I thought of trying dermarolling for the scars but, can you imagine, adding that to an already effed up skin state? Wink
ngeisler
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 10:04 am      Reply with quote
Interesting...
Considering how we're bombarded with promises from cosmetic manufacturers, it's easy to fall prey to over-consumption/overuse. For what it's worth, my $.02:

1. You may agree or disagree, but I think natural is better. I own a natural skin care line and am hyper aware of how damaging most conventional skin care products can be.

2. If you're using Retin-a, please don't use another acid exfolliant. I think Retin-a is the best there is and adding another acid to your regiment is a recipe for disaster. Use it every other night without a moisturizer, on clean, very dry skin.

3. A clarisonic doesn't make you break out. It's probably the best thing someone with acne-prone skin can use. Don't overdo it though - use it in the shower in the morning without cleanser. Your face did not get dirty overnight and you don't need to strip every bit of oil away.

4. Gels generally contain alcohol - which should be avoided at all costs. Look for a serum, to use during the day, that has vitamin C and hyaluronic acid in it.

5. Keep it simple. Here's my routine suggestion: cleanse with a clarisonic (no cleanser) in the shower in the morning > Vitamin C Serum (not 15 or 20% - you only need 3% for it to be effective) with hyaluronic acid and ferulic acid > a clean serum with antioxidants > sunscreen if necessary. At night - cleanse with a gentle, natural cleanser > Retin-A every other night. On alternate nights, use a night serum with repair ingredients like green tea extract and ceramides.

This may be to minimalist for you, but I really believe less is more. Also, diet is huge and sugar will destroy your skin.
ngeisler
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 12:36 pm      Reply with quote
ngeisler wrote:
Interesting...
Considering how we're bombarded with promises from cosmetic manufacturers, it's easy to fall prey to over-consumption/overuse. For what it's worth, my $.02:

1. You may agree or disagree, but I think natural is better. I own a natural skin care line and am hyper aware of how damaging most conventional skin care products can be.

2. If you're using Retin-a, please don't use another acid exfolliant. I think Retin-a is the best there is and adding another acid to your regiment is a recipe for disaster. Use it every other night without a moisturizer, on clean, very dry skin.

3. A clarisonic doesn't make you break out. It's probably the best thing someone with acne-prone skin can use. Don't overdo it though - use it in the shower in the morning without cleanser. Your face did not get dirty overnight and you don't need to strip every bit of oil away.

4. Gels generally contain alcohol - which should be avoided at all costs. Look for a serum, to use during the day, that has vitamin C and hyaluronic acid in it.

5. Keep it simple. Here's my routine suggestion: cleanse with a clarisonic (no cleanser) in the shower in the morning > Vitamin C Serum (not 15 or 20% - you only need 3% for it to be effective) with hyaluronic acid and ferulic acid > a clean serum with antioxidants > sunscreen if necessary. At night - cleanse with a gentle, natural cleanser > Retin-A every other night. On alternate nights, use a night serum with repair ingredients like green tea extract and ceramides.

This may be too minimalist for you, but I really believe less is more. Also, diet is huge and sugar will destroy your skin.
SweetCreamRabbit
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Wed Oct 21, 2015 5:50 pm      Reply with quote
Thanks so much Ngeisler!

I'm all for minimalism. The overdoing it is probably a symptom of our consumer culture. I guess we're always on the lookout for that HG skincare product.

So you basically think physical exfoliation is superior to chemical? How come?

And do you have any specific products in mind? Especially for the vitamin C and the moisturiser. I was considering the Nia24 but it's wayyyyyyy too expensive.

Thanks again Smile
SweetCreamRabbit
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Tue Nov 03, 2015 12:42 am      Reply with quote
I guess I'll post what's been working so far.

I took a break from my retin A and AHA/BHA. (Though I want to incorporate it twice a week once my skin improves a bit.)

I think the Clairosnic actually works best for dry brushing (plus, isn't the skin much more vulnerable while wet? adding a harsh cleanser AND brushing could've been the problem all along!). I do this 1-2 times a week, if I remember. Honestly I kind of regret getting it. I'm so lazy using it. If I do remember I make my boyfriend do a whole body dry brush. Wink

I have to wash my face in the morning because it's usually too oily. I LOVE the Hada Labo Acid Foaming Cleanser because it doesn't dry me out and has a 5.5 pH. If I'm wearing makeup I use a cold cream first or DHC's (in)famous oil (but it's more drying than the cold cream).

Recently, I added in the Eucerin Clarifying Toner (also 5.5 pH) which is very moisturising. And in the morning I follow my Cellex-C vitamin C with Missha First Essence (awesome! really hydrating stuff!) and a CeraVe AM moisturiser. I tried so hard to add other things in but it makes my makeup ballup.

In the evening (the same routine follows) a mandelic acid serum (3 times a week; it's in a serum and not very aggressive) and layering lots of gel-like hydrators (=serums) to top it off with emu oil as an occlusive.

I tried tamanu oil but don't like it. It doesn't absorb as well and I'm suspicious that that it's breaking me out (though it could be a 100 other things!)

I also found a niacinamide powder that I bought from bulk actives (when I tried DIYing my own skincare; geez, that didn't last long) and mixed it with aspirin and coffee to make another toner. It makes my skin so smooth!

...And I'm sure no one really cares... Rolling Eyes
But if you do, and are curious about my routine you're welcome to ask. Smile
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