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Sun May 01, 2005 8:32 am  |
Okay, now I'm getting somewhere! I bought some new Vit. C that dissolves just fine. Maybe the old stuff I had was too old or not a good quality or something. I hope what I bought is what I actually want - the bottle only says "ascorbic acid," but doesn't specify "l" or "d."
Anyway, now my question is - how do I thicken this watery formula up a bit without adding oils and an umulsifying thickener? Xanthan gum comes to mind, but I don't have any and don't want to buy (and wait for!) a lb. when all I need is a bit! Any suggestions?
Mary Jane |
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Sun May 01, 2005 11:57 am |
Mary Jane,
You can't thicken it unless you add a thickening agent (like a carbomer, or guar gum or something)and you have to add those to the water before you add any of the other ingredients.
The only thing you could do is thicken it with xanthan gum - that should work (not sure about the pH though - it might not set if it's too acidic). And it might not dissolve since you've already added your glycol & silicone.
If you want it thicker, you'll probably have to start all over with a new formulation. But since you already have it made up, you can try adding the xanthan gum to it & see if it works.
Good luck!
-Darren |
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Pure Skin Formulations, LLC | http://www.psfskincare.com |
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samantha45100
New Member
 
Joined: 05 May 2005
Posts: 1
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Thu May 05, 2005 6:55 am |
Hello- I posted the following question on biochemistryofbeauty recently & the site admin didn’t think that xantham gum would be good in vit C serum (see below). The post is long (sorry) but hopefully it’ll be helpful. Maybe add some glycerin to your serum or check out biochemistryofbeauty forum.
Post:
I am just learning how to make my own skin care products and have a few questions because it’s all rather confusing to me! I purchased the Multi-Lamellar oil-free cream (ingredients below) from personalformulator along with L-ascorbic acid and Matrixyl. I made a 15% C cream by disolving the ascorbic acid in distilled water & adding to the multi-lamellar cream. Also made a 5% Matrixyl cream. Is it okay to use both products at the same time – one in the am & the other at night? Can I used them together? I am refrigerating the C cream. Should I refrigerate the Matrixyl cream? It seems like the C cream penetrates my skin very well but is a serum better? Any advice or words of wisdom would be appreciated!!
Multi-Lamellar CREAM - oil free: Water (Aqua), Glyceryl Stearate, Behenyl Alcohol, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Lauryl Alcohol, Myristyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Isohexadecane, Glycerin, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone Copolyol, Xanthan gum, Myristyl Myristate, Methylparaben, DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Propylparaben, Tetrasodium EDTA , Triethanolamine
Yes, you can use both products in the same day, but they have different optimal pHs; L-ascorbic is best below pH 3.5 and matrixyl requires pH 4.0-6.0. So you can use them both in the AM, or C in the AM and matrixyl in the PM, but if you use them both in the AM give it a wait between layers (apply C first).
Answer:
Refrigerating can extend shelf life by up to 100%.
A low-lipid serum would be a better choice for an acne-prone person but if you are not acne prone there are potential problems with creams in general regarding metal content (could have adverse reactions with the C, depending on the ingredients) and pH. That is the main motivation for making a very simple C serum: fewer ingredients and less chance for adverse reactions with the C.
In this cream, there are a few things I would be wary about: magnesium aluminum silicate (the silicate and aluminum parts) and the xanthan gum. I am not sure if they are really a problem, but I think that the potential exists. But, this cream also contains a metal chelator which could have a greater binding affininty for any trace metals than the C, which would lessen any potential problem. |
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Thu May 05, 2005 5:01 pm |
| Yeah, xanthan gum wouldn't have been my first choice as a thickener either, but from Mary Jane's post it seemed like that was the only ingredient she could get. From what I know about xanthan gum, it really doesn't ever dissolve in water. All polysaccarides create a colloid, or suspension of their molecules in the water. It binds the water molecules & adds to it's molecular weight & viscosity, but I believe that after time (or with drastic changes in pH), it will seperate and lose its serum-like consistancy over time. You might want to try refined methylcellolose instead. |
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Pure Skin Formulations, LLC | http://www.psfskincare.com |
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Thu May 05, 2005 7:11 pm |
Try and post recipe talk in the DIY thread  The reason it was created so we wouldn't have to look all over the place for the recipe's.
Thanks so much!
Blue |
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Thu May 05, 2005 10:07 pm |
I'm new to this forum and still finding my way around. Would someone please point me to the DYI thread - I've looked all over the place and can't find it!
Mary Jane |
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