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Mon Apr 07, 2008 2:54 pm  |
| AnnieR wrote: |
ScotsLass-sorry, didn't mean to mislead but I haven't had any myself, but with fragile skin I thought I would ask (asked also on the dermaroller thread). I've been rolling about a month once a week very lightly with a 1.5 and it's been great, no problems, but I hear of people that push harder and have bruising so I was just curious. Since I can have a red mark left from an acne scar I thought it might be worth checking into. I don't use topicals directly after, just a bit of Active Serum with hydracool in about an hour and it does soak in nicely. I have followed the crisscross pattern on my Leaf and Rusher directions so it's going well, no blood or even peeling.
My caps have always been there, but I just had an IPL and didn't want to make any more permanent marks. Thanks for the help. |
Hey Annie - Glad to hear that you were asking a question out of curiosity and not because you experienced anything adverse with your own roller.  Bruising happens as a result of blood rupturing beneath the skin from an intensive rolling session (meaning more pressure was applied and for a longer period of time). Pinpricks of blood will not cause bruising, unlike oozing area's of blood, so as long as you continue to roll the same way you've been doing, you shouldn't bruise at all. If anyone finds they have areas of their skin that oozes with blood they really ought to use an antiseptic immediately after a treatment, as infection is a legitimate concern and should be taken seriously.
Generally speaking, bruising will not happen if you are using the smaller rollers such as 0.5 mm, 0.75 mm and 1.0 mm, as they do not target the deeper skin layers and instead create 'channels' in the upper layers of your skin that allow topicals to penetrate further. The shorter needle sizes can also be used more than once a week as they are not able to damage new collagen formation the same way that the longer needles can.
The longer needles break down old damaged collagen strands and this abrasion, or minor injury in the dermis, induces the production of fresh new collagen. If you repeatedly roll your skin with the longer rollers (1.5 mm and up) more than once a week, you are effectively breaking down the new collagen before it has time to properly re-stimluate. In other words, you are mowing down the new collagen during the time frame that it requires to start 'building' again. This is why you'll find many articles or documents about dermarolling that suggest you roll with the longer rollers once a week for 6 weeks then STOP rolling entirely for a period of 12 weeks. It then takes at least 90 days of no rolling for your skin to fully regenerate. So you will not know the real results of this 6 week session until that time.
In the meantime, while you are waiting to see the FULL results of your 6 week cycle with the 1.5 mm roller, you can still use the smaller rollers 2 to 3 times a week as a means of helping your topicals & actives penetrate deeper. I've actually married the two protocols together and use a smaller roller for product penetration Monday's and Wednesday's before bed with my serums, and the 1.5 mm roller on Friday's for my weekly intensive session. Once my 6 week cycle with the larger roller is done, I will continue to use the smaller roller at least twice a week at night before I apply my evening products. The reason I do this at night verus the day is because collagen production is higher while you're sleeping.
FYI to those using Skinbiology's Copper Peptide serums. CP's are not to be used directly on any kind of open wound; and area's with oozing blood classify as such. For this reason, CP's should NEVER be used immediately after a rolling session if your skin is OOZING at all as the CP's can inadvertently trigger the formation of *scar collagen*. If your skin is not oozing, you can safely apply a copper peptide product. It is advised by Skinbio that you start with a milder CP and dilute it with water if you intend to use it right after a rolling session as the product is being delivered significantly deeper into your skin and this can cause a great deal of inflammation and/or a sensation of burning and itching. IF your skin does become super inflamed after you've applied a CP right after you've rolled, and the inflammation does not subside, rinse it with water repeatedly and then use Emu oil alone until the next day. |
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Fair with mild rosascea & combination skin (dry with oily t-zone) |
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Sat Apr 12, 2008 11:51 pm |
You're so welcome, Aiva! I don't know what kind of products you intend to use with your roller or how tollerant your skin is, so I would suggest you experiment on a patch of skin on your face for a wee bit to see how that goes. At the moment I have been using a 1.0 mm roller on clean skin as a prep technique two nights a week before I apply my evening products. However, I am not rolling the products in after I've applied them and have not attempted to do so at this stage (I have sensitive skin and need to go rather slowly right now  ). I do intend to try this method out further down the road though!
I have read several articles that say it is perfectly fine to do a quick roll on clean skin first, then apply your product, then roll on top of the product for additional penetration. This method creates micro-channels for the product to sink into upon initial application before you roll again to push everything that much deeper. If you applied a product on top of clean skin that wasn't briefly rolled first, I believe you will still deliver some product deeper in your skin, but not nearly as much as you would by having the skin prepped with a quick roll beforehand.
Just keep in mind that the extra 'push' of any products may inflame your skin to a degree depending on what you are using, or it may trigger some peeling the next day. Generally speaking, the products that are most often rolled into the skin are vitamin treatments or hyaluronic acid serums. In other words, products that help the skin fight against free radicals or plump it up. I have not come across any document that supports the idea of rolling a copper peptide product, l-ascorbic acid, or retin-a cream into the skin. So please take care of what you intend to use should you try the push technique with your roller.
Once you've finished a 'push roll' you will need to take some extra time to clean your roller in order to remove any product residue that adheres to the needles, as this can encourage bacteria to form on the roller head.
Hope this gives you some ideas of how you might want to approach the prep versus push techniques with your roller, Aiva. Hope you have lots of success with whatever method you end up trying, too!
**Note** - Though I am using a 1.0 mm roller as a product prep tool, the needles on this size penetrate the skin closer to 0.7 mm, and not at the full 1.0 mm depth. This is why I opted for this roller as a prep tool instead of the 0.5 mm size, which actually penetrates closer to 0.3 mm. |
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Fair with mild rosascea & combination skin (dry with oily t-zone) |
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