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foxe
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Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:10 am      Reply with quote
sister sweets wrote:
katewilson wrote:
Thank you DarkMoon Smile I will go for the natural unadulterated one also, the d-alpha tocopherol.


Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.


Hi sis - are you sure your Vit E bottle says "dL" alpha?

The dl version is the synthetic one.

The d-alpha is the natural one.

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Fri Mar 19, 2010 4:33 pm      Reply with quote
foxe,

Here is the only Vitamin E that lotioncrafters lists on their web site, it's the more stable but synthetic E.

Vitamin E Acetate
CAS No. 7695-91-2; 58-95-7


Alpha tocopheryl acetate or Vitamin E Acetate is the stable form of Vitamin E most often used in cosmetic formulations for its skin care benefits. Supported by numerous studies over the past few years, Vitamin E Acetate has been shown to increase the enzyme activity in the skin, prevent free radical induced skin damage, increase epithelisation of surface wounds and increase the moisturisation of the horny layer. Add to the oil phase of formulations.


Recommended Usage Rate: 0.5 - 5%
Appearance: Clear yellow viscous oil

INCI: Tocopheryl Acetate

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Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:56 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
ETA: Mishey, not sure I answered your question clearly... Yes, I omit the C + E, and only use the citric acid + refrigeration. Once I'm ready to incorporate it into a DIY product, then I add vitamins C + E to that. (Also, the vitamin C + E components I use will depend on the other actives I'm putting in the product.. It can easily be a C-ester for the "C" and simply an oil that contains a high quantity of vitamin "E" for that part.


Yes it's very clear now. Thanks heaps Kassy.
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 5:33 pm      Reply with quote
I just made my 1st "real" serum after 2 months of using one that, after testing it with pH strips,I found was basically crap. That "Perfect C" kit from Walgreens, yeah, I was warned, but it was half-price. Anyway, I just received my actives order and whipped up a couple of small trial batches. One had green tea in it, then I read that the tea will cause harmful activity, so I tossed it. The other was just LAA and distilled water, which I applied with cotton like a toner. Holy cow, it stings!! Shock The pH strips show it at a 3, and the one I've been used to tingled, but didn't sting. Will my skin become used to this? I'd really rather not reduce the LAA if I know this is temporary.
Also, I notice a faint whitish film on my face when it dries. Normal?
I added a couple of squirts of generic Cetaphil to the mix...thickens it up a bit and seems to have no effect on pH. There's no mineral oil in the ingredient list. If this is ok, and will not hinder absorption, I'll make a larger batch in a spray bottle for face and body use. Anyone's thoughts?
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 7:59 pm      Reply with quote
foxe wrote:
sister sweets wrote:
katewilson wrote:
Thank you DarkMoon Smile I will go for the natural unadulterated one also, the d-alpha tocopherol.


Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.


Hi sis - are you sure your Vit E bottle says "dL" alpha?

The dl version is the synthetic one.

The d-alpha is the natural one.


Hi Foxe - It does indeed say Dl-alpha Tocopherol. Surprising.
I'm going to try palm oil with my next batch and see how it goes. I'm set for a lotioncrafters order and a GoW to stock up the apothocary.

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Sun Mar 21, 2010 6:43 am      Reply with quote
Speaking of 'stocking up the apothecary' - DH just happened to notice all the boxes that have been getting delivered here lately Rolling Eyes (Must remember to place ONE larger order rather than several smaller orders) That can be a problem when you can't get everything at one place, though....

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Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:45 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
Pan wrote:
Hi all
I'm new to this topic; after reading some of this I would love to make my own C serum too. Thank you for sharing. I decided to order some ingredient and wonder any Canadian out there where did you order your stuff?


Hi, and welcome! Smile

Here is the recipe index and near the bottom are lists of many suppliers.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

HTH
Thank you DarkMoon Smile
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Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:09 pm      Reply with quote
You are welcome Pan, I know it's a bit difficult finding all the information at first. Smile The recipe and supplier's list is great Havana8 gets a big thanks for putting that all together, and keeping up with additions. Smile

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Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:34 pm      Reply with quote
foxe wrote:
Speaking of 'stocking up the apothecary' - DH just happened to notice all the boxes that have been getting delivered here lately Rolling Eyes (Must remember to place ONE larger order rather than several smaller orders) That can be a problem when you can't get everything at one place, though....


I live in an apartment block - so when a package is delivered it goes to the manager first who writes out a note and puts it in our mail box to notify us that there is a package to pick up. The manager complained to my husband that he was getting RSI from writing out so many notes!! This caused an inquisition into why and what was I buying.

I've now fixed this problem by getting my own personal post office box. Very Happy

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Sun Mar 21, 2010 5:41 pm      Reply with quote
Keliu wrote:

I've now fixed this problem by getting my own personal post office box. Very Happy


Oh, what a tangled web we weave.." Laughing That is a Great idea and could protect quite a few of us!
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Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:26 pm      Reply with quote
Keliu wrote:
foxe wrote:
Speaking of 'stocking up the apothecary' - DH just happened to notice all the boxes that have been getting delivered here lately Rolling Eyes (Must remember to place ONE larger order rather than several smaller orders) That can be a problem when you can't get everything at one place, though....


I live in an apartment block - so when a package is delivered it goes to the manager first who writes out a note and puts it in our mail box to notify us that there is a package to pick up. The manager complained to my husband that he was getting RSI from writing out so many notes!! This caused an inquisition into why and what was I buying.

I've now fixed this problem by getting my own personal post office box. Very Happy


Laughing Laughing

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Sun Mar 21, 2010 7:41 pm      Reply with quote
rileygirl wrote:
Keliu wrote:

I've now fixed this problem by getting my own personal post office box. Very Happy


Oh, what a tangled web we weave.." Laughing That is a Great idea and could protect quite a few of us!


That is a great idea, and all those headaches you are saving yourself. LOL

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Mon Mar 22, 2010 3:03 am      Reply with quote
Hi all, I'm new to EDS forum and have been overwhelmed by all these new and helpful information I've be reading for the last 24 hours.

I'm about to start derma rolling having ordered 0.5mm roller and have been trying to find a serum to prep my face before and after rolling.

I've notice a few recipes on this thread from earlier posts but there are lots of acronyms and abbreviations in the recipes, e.g MAP. SKB, THDA etc and I'm now very lost and confused.

I blame this on my relative naivety in the world of DIY skincare, but could someone please enlighten me on what these actually mean and point me to a glossary of terms on this site if there is one? I tried to search for one but didn't have any luck. If one isn't yet made, I think creating one would be a great reference for all.

If anyone has a recommended recipe for pre and post rollering, I'd be very grateful and it will help cut down the time I'll be spending trawling through the roller forums looking for pages and pages of tips and info.

Thanks all for making me feel welcomed! Hope to be a helpful contributing member to this group.

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DarkMoon
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Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:10 am      Reply with quote
Hello lilpil and welcome. Smile

Here is the list of frequently used acronyms

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=3228

And here is the recipe index plus suppliers listing.

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

HTH

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Mon Mar 22, 2010 9:33 am      Reply with quote
Oh, I love it! Laughing My DH has been asking a lot of questions too. So, anytime he asks, I give him all the details. I break down all the costs for him, explaining how much the premade stuff costs per bottle, and how many bottles I can make with the ingredients I'm buying. I explain what each ingredient does and why it's in there. Then I tell him how much I'm saving on derm visits and other products. By the time I'm done, he wishes he hadn't asked.
Keliu wrote:
foxe wrote:
Speaking of 'stocking up the apothecary' - DH just happened to notice all the boxes that have been getting delivered here lately Rolling Eyes (Must remember to place ONE larger order rather than several smaller orders) That can be a problem when you can't get everything at one place, though....


I live in an apartment block - so when a package is delivered it goes to the manager first who writes out a note and puts it in our mail box to notify us that there is a package to pick up. The manager complained to my husband that he was getting RSI from writing out so many notes!! This caused an inquisition into why and what was I buying.

I've now fixed this problem by getting my own personal post office box. Very Happy

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Mon Mar 22, 2010 8:25 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
katewilson wrote:
sister sweets wrote:
Hi Kate - The one Kassy recommended to me was from Personal Formulator. It is the Natural vitaminE /dl alpha tocopherol
This is exactly what it says on my bottle.

Hope that helps. It's been working great for me and many others.


Thanks sister, I guess I should order from Personal Formulator just that E oil. I am trying to follow Kassy's recipe perfectly since I am a first timer Smile

One more question: which version of C serum is suggested to use with the AAL treatment (Anti_Aging Light)? the water or oil soluble? ( LAA or Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate?), I forgot the right answer of what I read. Thanks in advance!


You don't want to use anything totally oil based with any LED.. Also be sure whatever C serum you apply before LED has absorbed 30 minutes, then just give your face a quick rinse with just a bit of water which will remove any lingering oil/film.

You only really need 1/8th tsp (per oz) of any oil of your choice that has a high vitamin E content.. (I just use rosehip, macadamia, avocado or palm oil these days).. As Sis mentioned, the vitamin E oil from TPF is pretty good).... Also, reduce the Ferulic Acid to 1/8th tsp. (I'm not sure why the recipe is reading 1/4 tsp.) Also, on the subject of FA, I don't know why some folks are having trouble solubizing it.. Not sure what they expect, but when you put it in a little glass, then pour a bit of vodka on it, you should be looking at a yellowish, opaque liquid at that point. Then just proceed with the rest.

Also, for anybody who doesn't have or want to use SKB, aloe gel works nicely instead. Either of these serve the purpose to *emulsify* the oil/water phases for me... For those who have polysorbate 80 or propylene glycol, you can certainly use that. (I just prefer to keep all chemicals to a minimum whenever possible.)

1oz 15% Vitamin C Serum (3/18/10)

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
2 tsp Distilled H20
1 tsp Jojoba Oil
1 tsp SKB (Don't use more than 1 tsp, it's too tacky!)
1 tsp Aloe Vera Gel (or just use 2 aloe and leave out the SKB)
1/8th tsp Vitamin E
1/8th tsp Ferulic Acid
1/2 tsp vodka

Use 2 shot glasses;

Glass 1:

Put in the L-AA, pour slightly warmed H20 over it, stir, and proceed with the rest of recipe. (Don't use water that is too hot or too cold.. about 80ish degrees is perfect.)

Glass 2:

Put in the FA, pour room temp vodka over it, stir. Now add in and stir the remainder of the ingredients one at a time, in this order; SKB and/or Aloe, Jojoba + Vitamin E.

Once the L-AA has completely dissolved in the H20, slowly incorporate the contents of both glasses together in another (larger) glass. Mix all very well, then put in your dispensing bottle. (Anything that occludes light is good, and pump bottles are best to keep oxygen to a minimum.)

For those who want to make 2oz and use it head to toe just double the ingredients... I don't refrigerate mine and it has never reached the 2nd stage of oxidation (yellowing), but for those who don't think they'll use it within 2 months, you can add .5% of Optiphen preservative to it, which will further preserve it. (Add this to the water/L-AA glass.)

This is a very simple and effective DIY serum. For those with a bit more DIY experience, you can easily formulate this with THDA which would be added to the oil phase. Just decrease the L-AA to 10%, and add 7% (2 ml) of THDA, and add a bit more 'oil' and decrease the water by the same amount.


Hey Kassy gurl!! I saw that you had added some aloe vera and wonder what you think of this re: the C+E ferulic jojoba recipe:

I added 1/4 tsp aloe vera oil extract (TheHerbarie.com has it) and 3/4 tsp jojoba to the oil phase instead of the 1 tsp jojoba. This made it very smooth and less shiny for me. This I combined with 1 tsp SKB and 1/4 tsp Covi-Ox T50.

I subbed Covi-Ox T50 for the vit E. (Ditto: TheHerbarie.com). It has 4 types of tocopherols so could provide additional antioxidant benefits.

Yay? or nay?

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Mon Mar 22, 2010 10:32 pm      Reply with quote
Hey fawnie - nice to have you reporting in... I'm sure Kassy will be along shortly to answer. She checks in from time to time.

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Mon Mar 22, 2010 11:49 pm      Reply with quote
I don't know how you are all incorporating the oil into the mixture without an emulsifier. The SKB doesn't seem to do the job for me.

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Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:44 pm      Reply with quote
Thanks Sis!
Hi Keliu, mostly I just whip the $h!t out of it with a thin spatula, or even a clean bamboo skewer might work. Something fine to break up those globs of SKB and combine them with the oils. Then I slowly add in the water phase like making a salad dressing.

The oil and water phases will never permanently combine, if I've got that right, since oil and water are oppositely charged and need an emulsifier, like you said. But like Lancome's Bi-facil cleanser, a good shake makes it all right with the world! At least long enough to get it on my face!

Hope I got that right, Kassy. Very Happy

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Tue Mar 23, 2010 7:54 pm      Reply with quote
I've never had a problem with the SKB. I have not tried the recipe with jojoba nor aloe. Next go 'round.

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Tue Mar 23, 2010 8:14 pm      Reply with quote
Keliu wrote:
I don't know how you are all incorporating the oil into the mixture without an emulsifier. The SKB doesn't seem to do the job for me.


I agree with you Kelilu mixing oil and water needs a real emulsifier. Plus all the whipping and shaking just incorporates a lot of air into the mix, oxygen=oxidation. IMHO Smile

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Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:18 pm      Reply with quote
For those who need a true emulsifier, just use either polysorbate or lecithin or similar.

For me, the SKB has worked fine and I haven't had separation anxiety.. Laughing

If you follow how I've outlined the additions in the recipe (glass 2), it shouldn't seperate. The separation problem arises when you try to mix the oil right into the water.

Another option is to reduce the water to just how much you absolutely need to dissolve the L-AA, and increase the SKB and/or Aloe by the same amount you've decreased. Glycerin + HA can also help you achieve a thicker more emulsified serum.

The possibilities are endless once you have the basics down pat.

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:31 pm      Reply with quote
Everyone, please forgive me for going off topic but while we've got Kassy "on" I need to ask her a question..

Miss Kassy -
I haven't been using the C lately cause I have a "rash" that comes and goes. This may be a daft question but I notice it gets worse after sitting at my computer and under a full spectrum light. I'm using Retin A. Could this possible be the culprit?????
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Wed Mar 24, 2010 5:47 pm      Reply with quote
Zoftig wrote:
Everyone, please forgive me for going off topic but while we've got Kassy "on" I need to ask her a question..

Miss Kassy -
I haven't been using the C lately cause I have a "rash" that comes and goes. This may be a daft question but I notice it gets worse after sitting at my computer and under a full spectrum light. I'm using Retin A. Could this possible be the culprit?????


Hi Kiddo,

Just trying to finish up PM's and saw your post. Please PM me with the following;

1. When was the 1st time you noticed it?
2. Can you relate it to anything new you started using topically?
3. You say it comes and goes, but how often.. (Days per week?)
4. What medications are you taking regularly, and is anything added new since the rash started.
5. What does it look like (exactly), and does it itch or burn.
6. What gadgets are you using, and do you disinfect them regularly?

For Retin-A in general, it's best applied just before going to bed.. Personally I believe that "any" light can degrade it.

PM me as much as you can think of, and I'll tell ya what I think. (I'll get back to you sometime tomorrow.)

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:57 am      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
Zoftig wrote:
I haven't been using the C lately cause I have a "rash" that comes and goes. This may be a daft question but I notice it gets worse after sitting at my computer and under a full spectrum light. I'm using Retin A. Could this possible be the culprit?????


For Retin-A in general, it's best applied just before going to bed.. Personally I believe that "any" light can degrade it.



http://thebeautybrains.com/2008/06/11/can-your-skin-get-uv-damage-from-a-computer-screen/

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=37006

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