For Vitamin C Serum DIYers
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free skin care · Wed Mar 14, 2012 2:23 pm

Hi Kassy! If you are still around here, I would love your input.

I am thinking of starting my own C serum now, but have made myself sensitive. I have recently decided to go Gung Ho with turning back the clock. I tend to be an all or nothing intense type. My work situation changed and for the first time in years I had time to really take a look at what was going on and I got scared. I don't have money for surgery or fillers. I am 55 now and for all of you gals in your mid to late 40's, if you think you are seeing unacceptable changes now, prepare yourself for after menopause. If I had been more disciplined early on like you guys I am sure I would be in better shape. It is hard if you don't see the need as much. I always took care of my skin and always looked really young but I guess I did not work at it hard enough for prevention. Aging catches up to even those of us who were in the forever young category for so long. Also I just lost 5 lbs and I am continuing and that really takes a toll and causes serious deflation when you are older.

I have done some of these off and on but never stuck with it. Within the last month I have started up Facial Exercises with skin handling and massage, Tua Trend, AALS, Vaculifter, Safetox and I even pulled out my old Leaf and Rusher Derma Roller but that might send me over the edge. I do not do everything every day but try to do something, even if just a simple Tanaka massage. This is taking so much time and I don't have my routine set yet by any means. I can definitely see the "ugglies" effect of doing too much so I have to cut back. My skin goes from looking great to ok but with lots of dry crustiness. I think all the handling, even with oil for slip, is irritating me. It is going to take some time.

I do use 302 C drops and I am fine with it. I see some brightening. I have had irritation to C in the past and got lots of red bumps. I think the worse was Perricone long ago. I have decided that Jojoba might clog my pores. Is that possible? That is in the 302. So I am looking for an alternative. I am open to trying the L-AA form of C.

I want something simple. I stocked up with tons of ingredients from Lotioncrafter a few years ago with and all the paraphernalia and I just didn't do it! I am sure it all expired. Figuring out the percentages with everything is just too much work for me and for the most part, I prefer to just pay the extra money and buy it when it comes to more complicated formulations. But in this case with the C, I think I might be able to deal, so I want to give it a try. Also I want to use all over my body and see if it helps with sun spots and it will be too expensive to purchase this.

I have to do something about the texture of my skin which is why I pulled out the DermaRoller. I have tried Retinol products in the past but they were either too irritating or were so gentle I saw nothing. Do you think NCN's Trans Retinol would be too strong for me if I also add in the C? I am also using Ageless Secret and NCN Collagen Elastin. Thinking about her DNA. Other than that it is just cleansing and moisturizing with either a few drops of oil, hydrating mists or moisturizer.

Do you think I should give the C a try at this time and if so any suggestions on a recipe?

Hope 60's are better than 50's. I think this decade is a real shocker! Rolling Eyes

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:18 pm

Hooray for my favorite DIY vendor for Vitamin C serum supplies... As usual, we ask, they listen..

Lotioncrafter.com now has a kit that will have you duplicating Skinceuticals C, E & Ferulic perfectly.. The kit contains all the actives you need to make more than 6.5 oz of serums (minus the distilled water).. for $49.95 ... This is so worth it, especially if you are tackling your 1st project! Complete instructions come with it.

Here's the actives you will get;

You'll receive:

1g Ferulic Acid
30g L-Ascorbic Acid Ultra Fine Powder
5g Hyaluronic Acid
1g dl-Panthenol
15g Glycerin
15g Laureth-23
5g 95% Mixed Tocopherols
45g Ethoxydiglycol
25g Propylene Glycol
14g Triethanolamine
5g Phenonip
10-pack pH Testing Strips
Instructions

You will not find a better deal or a better quality of L-Ascorbic Acid to work with.

An optional scale and airless bottles are available from the pull down menu at the top of the page (for those who don't already have these great stock items.)

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/c-e-with-ferulic-acid-kit.html

Yay Lotioncrafter ... Very Happy

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:22 pm

Hi Kassy, I wanted to get your opinion on Ethoxydiglycol.. I have read horrible stuff about it... lotioncrafter says it's ok to use upto 80% but, I believe, in Europe maximum allowed % is 2%.. Thank you

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:35 pm

daler wrote:

Hi Kassy, I wanted to get your opinion on Ethoxydiglycol.. I have read horrible stuff about it... lotioncrafter says it's ok to use upto 80% but, I believe, in Europe maximum allowed % is 2%.. Thank you

Keep in mind that it is in the Skinceuticals formula, so that is why it is available in the kit..

As with anything, it's always good to do some research and then adjust to your specific needs.. I'm not a fan of Triethanolamine, so that's why it isn't in the recipe's I posted.. You could always leave out what you are in fear of, but then just keep in mind that the end result will be a bit different than the retail brand..

We can't have it all, but we can sure have the safest "almost"... Laughing

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:38 pm

They have this on the site notice the usage is usually much lower.

Ethoxydiglycol
CAS No.: 111-90-0

Ethyxydiglycol also known as diethylene glycol monethyl ether, is a cosmetic grade solvent that conforms to the current USP/NF monographs. Ethoxydiglycol is particularly appropriate for skin care preparations where it acts as an excellent solvent and carrier. Its solubility in ethanol, propylene glycol, vegetable oils, water, and butylene glycol makes it a valuable solvent or co-solvent which can be used in hydrophilic or lipophilic phases.

Typical Usage: 1 - 10%, safe as used up to 80%
Appearance: Clear liquid
Solubility: Soluble in water and oils (see above)

INCI: Ethoxydiglycol

Caution: Do not directly apply onto your skin.
This product should be added to a formulation at the recommended usage rate.

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/ethoxydiglycol.html

You can see more on safety on EWG Skin Deep

http://www.ewg.org/skindeep/ingredient.php?ingred06=702287

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 7:54 pm

Thanks for that DM.. Very helpful to have in the thread.. Very Happy

I'm so glad they have the kit.. It will be a perfect knock-off for those who love that product.. The other bonus for those folks will be that they will see what a difference a truly fresh product makes..

No more $130./oz *amber* C serum ... Shock

free skin care · Wed Apr 11, 2012 8:01 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

Thanks for that DM.. Very helpful to have in the thread.. Very Happy

I'm so glad they have the kit.. It will be a perfect knock-off for those who love that product.. The other bonus for those folks will be that they will see what a difference a truly fresh product makes..

No more $130./oz *amber* C serum ... Shock

Thanks,

Great find on the kit, I could not agree more about a great way for people to get a quality product and easily DIY with a kit! Very Happy

Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:41 pm

DarkMoon wrote:

They have this on the site notice the usage is usually much lower.

Ethoxydiglycol
CAS No.: 111-90-0

Ethyxydiglycol also known as diethylene glycol monethyl ether, is a cosmetic grade solvent that conforms to the current USP/NF monographs. Ethoxydiglycol is particularly appropriate for skin care preparations where it acts as an excellent solvent and carrier. Its solubility in ethanol, propylene glycol, vegetable oils, water, and butylene glycol makes it a valuable solvent or co-solvent which can be used in hydrophilic or lipophilic phases.

Typical Usage: 1 - 10%, safe as used up to 80%

Hi All,
You will see this often on our website "Safe as used up to nn%" or similar words. While manufacturers recommended usage rates are noted on the website, we also check the Cosmetic Review Compendium published by the Personal Care Products Council to determine if the ingredient has been reviewed and note their "Safe as Used" information in order to provide you with as much accurate information as possible.

Jen
Lotioncrafter

Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:44 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

Thanks for that DM.. Very helpful to have in the thread.. Very Happy

I'm so glad they have the kit.. It will be a perfect knock-off for those who love that product.. The other bonus for those folks will be that they will see what a difference a truly fresh product makes..

No more $130./oz *amber* C serum ... Shock

Regarding the C&E with Ferulic Kit we created when I reverse engineered the formulation (fun & challenging), the resulting solution will be a light yellow color when freshly made -- this comes from the ferulic acid and can't be helped. You will know if it is oxidizing over time (and we've found it will, albeit slower than a formulation without ferulic) because the solution will darken. We've also found this can be slowed down further by using non-translucent containers and also by storing the excess in the refrigerator.

We make the kits on a weekly basis, so if there is a sudden run on them, we may need to ramp up production, so check back if you note they are out of stock.

Jen
Lotioncrafter

free skin care · Thu Apr 12, 2012 12:47 pm

Lotioncrafter wrote:

DarkMoon wrote:

They have this on the site notice the usage is usually much lower.

Ethoxydiglycol
CAS No.: 111-90-0

Ethyxydiglycol also known as diethylene glycol monethyl ether, is a cosmetic grade solvent that conforms to the current USP/NF monographs. Ethoxydiglycol is particularly appropriate for skin care preparations where it acts as an excellent solvent and carrier. Its solubility in ethanol, propylene glycol, vegetable oils, water, and butylene glycol makes it a valuable solvent or co-solvent which can be used in hydrophilic or lipophilic phases.

Typical Usage: 1 - 10%, safe as used up to 80%

Hi All,
You will see this often on our website "Safe as used up to nn%" or similar words. While manufacturers recommended usage rates are noted on the website, we also check the Cosmetic Review Compendium published by the Personal Care Products Council to determine if the ingredient has been reviewed and note their "Safe as Used" information in order to provide you with as much accurate information as possible.

Jen
Lotioncrafter

Hello Jen and Welcome,

Thanks for coming on board and weighing in on this.
Great site for my DIY ventures BTW!

free skin care · Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:38 pm

Lotioncrafter wrote:

Kassy_A wrote:

Thanks for that DM.. Very helpful to have in the thread.. Very Happy

I'm so glad they have the kit.. It will be a perfect knock-off for those who love that product.. The other bonus for those folks will be that they will see what a difference a truly fresh product makes..

No more $130./oz *amber* C serum ... Shock

Regarding the C&E with Ferulic Kit we created when I reverse engineered the formulation (fun & challenging), the resulting solution will be a light yellow color when freshly made -- this comes from the ferulic acid and can't be helped. You will know if it is oxidizing over time (and we've found it will, albeit slower than a formulation without ferulic) because the solution will darken. We've also found this can be slowed down further by using non-translucent containers and also by storing the excess in the refrigerator.

We make the kits on a weekly basis, so if there is a sudden run on them, we may need to ramp up production, so check back if you note they are out of stock.

Jen
Lotioncrafter

Jen, I always solubize my FA in a bit of vodka, and it just looks 'milky' (not yellow)... The powder is pale yellow but it never makes my serum look yellow...EVER!

Could it be an interaction with one of the other ingredients? Perhaps that's why the Skinceutical brand yellows so quickly? Interesting!

free skin care · Thu Apr 12, 2012 3:41 pm

I make a v simple ascorbic acid solution with just distilled water and L-ascorbic acid ( from Lotioncrafters ) and germaben ll . It does not turn yellow for almost 30 days if I keep it in the fridge...

free skin care · Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:30 pm

daler wrote:

I make a v simple ascorbic acid solution with just distilled water and L-ascorbic acid ( from Lotioncrafters ) and germaben ll . It does not turn yellow for almost 30 days if I keep it in the fridge...

Just keep in mind though, that antioxidants work in teams! Using L-AA on it's own is weak... Sad

free skin care · Thu Apr 12, 2012 4:32 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

daler wrote:

I make a v simple ascorbic acid solution with just distilled water and L-ascorbic acid ( from Lotioncrafters ) and germaben ll . It does not turn yellow for almost 30 days if I keep it in the fridge...

Just keep in mind though, that antioxidants work in teams! Using L-AA on it's own is weak... Sad

Thank you Kassy; I do use another DIY emulsion with lots of actives and antioxidants including MAP.. I kept ascorbic acid out of it cause of the low pH and limited shelf life

Fri Apr 13, 2012 4:53 pm

I've been lurking these forums for several months and learning a lot from all your posts! I've added a few things to my beauty regimen (copper peptides and retin-a-micro, in addition to the hydroxy acids I was already using) and I'm now looking to add a vitamin c serum.

The DIY serums seem more appealing to me since all the marketed ones I find have some ingredients that scare me (parabens, silicones, & some ingredients that I just don't understand what they are). I have one question that might be stupid, but I have a bottle of Ester-C Calcium Ascorbate (comes as a brown powder) and was wondering if that can be used in place of LAA for a topical preparation?

Also, when should I be applying the vitamin C serum? I apply my copper peptide (Super CP Serum) in the morning and alternate evenings with my hydroxy acid cream or retin-a-micro. Should I apply it in the evening before my night routine? I feel confused even after I've read so much on these topics!

Sat Apr 14, 2012 7:28 am

Kassy_A wrote:

Just keep in mind though, that antioxidants work in teams! Using L-AA on it's own is weak... Sad

I have to respectfully disagree. I've mostly lurked here off and on for years and I recognized your name instantly as belonging to one of the most insightful and educated members here, so I hope you won't take offense. I haven't had the opportunity to read this entire thread and don't know if anyone else has had a similar experience with L-AA, but I know for a fact that this one simple ingredient has done a brilliant job of reversing signs of premature aging on my skin -- thanks to tons of stress and chronic illness. Rolling Eyes

I add 1/2 tsp. of L-AA crystals (Country Life, 2.5 grams per 1/2 tsp., purchased at the health food store) to a small amount of cool (not cold) filtered water (approximately 2 Tbsp.), and whisk like mad until the crystals are dissolved. I then apply my "serum" generously to face and neck using cotton balls and allow my face to air dry. If anyone decides to try this method, you'll want to wrap a towel around your neck. I squeeze the solution out of the cotton; my face and neck are literally bathed in it.

It burns my sensitive skin. I feel fried for several minutes afterwards, and it takes hours for the redness to fade. I only apply C serum at night, 3x a week. It's too harsh for every night, but the potency of the serum is why it works as well as it does. So I would say to anyone who would like to derive serious collagen-building properties from their L-AA: make it burn. And use it exclusively as a night treatment so your skin will have time to recover.

I've annihilated fine lines with this serum, so I can vouch that it absolutely will work wonders if you make it strong enough. The best thing is how cheap it is! An 8 oz. bottle of L-AA crystals is around $8.00 and lasts forever (there are 88 1/2 tsp. servings).

free skin care · Sat Apr 14, 2012 12:32 pm

Welcome Nanella!

No offense taken at all. As I always say feel free to get what you can from what I share, or leave it alone..

For me vitamin C is for much more than it's ability to generate collagen synthesis.. That's great, but what I really want, is to enjoy the protection it affords in the free radical arena..

To get the best of both worlds I choose to incorporate at least 2 antioxidants (& often 4) in my serums.. Like it or not, they work in synergy when combined.. Think of them as lovely little soldiers. Would you prefer having one to protect you or several?... I prefer an army! Laughing

PubMed offers lots of material on the topic, here's one for starters, with several more on the R side bar;

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12789176

Also keep in mind the cells you have hopes of targeting are composed of both water + lipids.. feeding both parts should be your goal. (Well it's mine anyway Wink

Please be careful with all that "burning + redness for hours"...it is not an indication of effectiveness, but could be quite the contrary. And please consider that "supplements" are meant for the digestive tract.

I'm sorry to hear of your stress and chronic illness and wish you all the best.

Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:54 am

Thanks for the welcome, Kassy. Smile

I think it's great that L-AA is such a versatile active. I began using it for the antioxidant benefits and slowly increased the potency in the hopes that it would give my skin's collagen synthesis a kick in the pants. I was looking for a tretinoin substitute at the time, and I say that with the realization that they're two entirely different actives and, therefore, not exactly interchangeable. I've read a little about the studies on C and collagen synthesis, however, and knew it had some real potential. To make a long-winded story short, I've had great success and was eager to share...in case anyone wanted to try using it for more than its protective abilities. Others may get the same benefits without the minor burning; my skin is highly reactive. It can be a blessing or a curse. Rolling Eyes

The crystals I use are pure L-AA, no additives. It's the same stuff you can purchase at the DIY sites, but in larger particles. I've used the finely milled powders and they dissolve a lot faster, which is a definite perk. Sometimes my arm tires before I'm finished whisking. I guess I could take that as a hint that I need to do more bicep curls. Wink

Thanks for posting additional info about the benefits of C + E. I'll take an army over one soldier any day. Wink

free skin care · Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:18 am

Here is a more recent and nice review article on the using vitamin C and vitamin E together and how vitamin C regenerates vitamin E, making the two synergistic:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18045356

free skin care · Sun Apr 15, 2012 8:20 am

cm5597 wrote:

Here is a more recent and nice review article on the using vitamin C and vitamin E together and how vitamin C regenerates vitamin E, making the two synergistic:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/18045356

Thanks for adding that cm, great addition to the thread!

free skin care · Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:20 pm

cjgrrl wrote:

Hi,I have a question about the serum. I use Vit. C crystals and Camu Camu powder. Anyways, the camu powder is orange so my serum is always a dark orangey brown color. How would I be able to tell if it has oxidized? So far I've been making the serum every seven to ten days and I store it in an amber dropper bottle. I wondered if anyone else here uses the camu powder too? Thanks, Smile

It would be fine for 7 to 10 days... better if u keep it in the refrigerator

free skin care · Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:23 pm

cjgrrl wrote:

Hi,I have a question about the serum. I use Vit. C crystals and Camu Camu powder. Anyways, the camu powder is orange so my serum is always a dark orangey brown color. How would I be able to tell if it has oxidized? So far I've been making the serum every seven to ten days and I store it in an amber dropper bottle. I wondered if anyone else here uses the camu powder too? Thanks, Smile

If you mean LAA there is no way to tell as it can still be clear and start oxidizing. Never used Camu Camu Powder so have not a clue on that. I prefer airless pump bottles to keep air out.

Tue Apr 17, 2012 1:58 pm

HIIIIIIIIII Cool

I would like to start DIY Vitamin C Serum. I would like the simplest recipe possible so I will be making a brand new fresh batch every day!!! Just vitamin c and distilled water!

If I want enough to last me FOUR MONTHS using every day for my face and neck, how many oz of ascorbic acid do you guys think i should buy? 1oz 2oz 3oz ...40z?!

Now this is a question here.....if i want a 20% vitamin c, i've seen that the recipe is to use 1/2 teaspoon and 2 teaspoon of distilled water. it makes sense to me, 0.5 out of 2.5 is 20% is it really that simple?? What would be the PH if I did that? I am worried about PH... I would like a PH of 2.5 to 3 Smile

Thu Apr 19, 2012 6:00 am

supersaucysugarspoon wrote:

HIIIIIIIIII Cool

I would like to start DIY Vitamin C Serum. I would like the simplest recipe possible so I will be making a brand new fresh batch every day!!! Just vitamin c and distilled water!

If I want enough to last me FOUR MONTHS using every day for my face and neck, how many oz of ascorbic acid do you guys think i should buy? 1oz 2oz 3oz ...40z?!

Now this is a question here.....if i want a 20% vitamin c, i've seen that the recipe is to use 1/2 teaspoon and 2 teaspoon of distilled water. it makes sense to me, 0.5 out of 2.5 is 20% is it really that simple?? What would be the PH if I did that? I am worried about PH... I would like a PH of 2.5 to 3 Smile

My 8 oz. bottle of L-AA crystals provides 88 1/2 tsp. servings, so I'm going to posit that you'd need at least 12 oz. for four months of daily use.

1/2 tsp. per 2 tsp. of water would be much too strong for me, but I have sensitive skin. If you're going to use crystals, don't refrigerate your water. You'll have a heck of a time getting that amount to dissolve in cold water.

L-AA has a pH of 2.2 - 2.5 (from bulkactives). Water, having a neutral pH, will have minimal effect on the solution's pH.

Tue May 01, 2012 7:01 pm

Hi everyone,
I am new to this forum. I just recently got serious about skin care, have been using Retin A and now I want to get into DIY Vit C serum. I have done a bit of reading around this forum, have read some threads/posts and followed this specific thread for a bit. However, I got totally confused as there are too many versions of DIY Vit C serums. Kassy especially has like 5 different versions. Does it matter which recipe I would pick to make? What is the difference between each recipes (functional wise, besides just different ingredients in the recipe). I really want to start placing the order asap but have no idea which recipe to pick to follow. Please help me get started! Thank you very much.

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