Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare

free skin care · Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:00 am

funkydory wrote:

Kassy_A wrote:

I've come to the conclusion that when using SKB and/or Ferulic Acid in any formulation it works best to heat for 6 or 8 seconds in the microwave..

Just made a new C serum, and the heating made it a breeze, and the serum also wound up with a nicer consistency.. (A bit thicker than usual, which some folks prefer..)

What I did;

Put FA in a shot glass, added just 1/4 tsp of vodka, (it dissolved right away), put in the SKB, stirred and then heated in the mic.. Then I stirred in the oil, + 1/2 tsp of glycerin and incorporated the LAA/water/ after it dissolved.. Then at the end, I added a 1/2 tsp of HA serum (NCN) I had on hand.

I decided to use a little glycerin, and really like the extra moisture and slip it gave it!

Hope that helps any others who are dealing with some lumps.. Embarassed

My FA didn't fully dissolve. It just turned murky even after microwaving it. Is that normal? I was stirring it for 30min and still not fully dissolved.

How long can you put it in the microwave for?

FA dissolves as soon as the vodka hits it, so if your's didn't something is wrong..

Put 1/4 tsp FA in a shot glass, pour 1/4 tsp vodka over that + stir (it will be milky white and serumy looking), now stir in the SKB and microwave for about 5 seconds.. It will be a lovely consistency serum..You can now add the oil + glycerin into this glass and stir..

Then when the phase #1 glass (L-AA + water have dissolved), you can add both phases together. Add the Hyaluronic Acid (slowly + continually stirring) after both phases are combined..(less headaches that way.)

Do you guys need me to redo this recipe + instruction, or are you getting this..? (Argh! I just know what ya'll are gonna say.. Bad Grin

)

free skin care · Tue Jun 23, 2009 11:48 am

It would be lovely if you would update the recipe with the new techniques. I've cut and pasted so much lately it is starting to resemble a kindergarten paper mache project gone bad

free skin care · Tue Jun 23, 2009 8:52 pm

15% C,E + FA with HA (New 6/23/09)

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
3 tsp Distilled H2O
1 tsp SKB
1 tsp Glycerin
1/4 tsp Ferulic Acid
1/4 tsp vodka
1/8 tsp Vitamin E or Rosehip Oil
1/2 tsp Hyaluronic Acid Serum (NCN has a really nice 2oz serum, that is compatible with this recipe, and is also great for an LED serum)

Use 2 little glasses.

Phase 1 glass (water)

Put L-AA in glass, add water, stir frequently and let it fully dissolve. Depending where you buy it, that can take up to an hour.. *Lotioncrafters dissolves quickly I hear*.. (If, and only if, after 60 minutes it's still gritty, you can sit the glass in a warm water bath for a minute, and stir, stir, stir.

Phase 2 glass (oil/emulsifying)

While you are waiting for the L-AA to dissolve, you can proceed with the rest like so. Put the FA in the 2nd glass, pour the vodka in and stir, now add the SKB. Mix this together, and put it in the microwave for 6ish seconds. When you take it out it should be whitish and serumy.. Give it a stir, add the oil and stir + add the glycerin and stir..

Phase 3 (putting it all together)

When the L-AA has fully dissolved, add the contents of both glasses together, stir well, and add the HA in now and stir well..

You should have an opaque off white serum when you are finished, with a consistency similar to a syrup (minus the stickiness Laughing

) If you use Rosehip Oil, you will start off with a bit darker color (great oil though!)

*For anyone that is using an HA powder, you will 1st have to make it into a liquid, or it will just ball up.. Embarassed

*

*Please don't be tempted to add more L-AA.. It will only wind up in your toilet bowl.. Embarassed

Our skin can only absorb so much* Besides, it will give you a load of grief trying to dissolve it.

Happy formulating... Very Happy

Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:08 pm

For easy retrieving, this and the previous version are in the DIY Recipe Index as:

Kassy's 15% C, E + Ferulic Acid (FA) with HA Serum, version A (3/24/09): http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=446865#446865
Kassy's 15% C, E + Ferulic Acid (FA) with HA Serum, version B (6/23/09): http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=467039#467039

free skin care · Tue Jun 23, 2009 9:38 pm

^^ Thanks havana8 for consolidating all the recipes for us!

About the FA, I didn't get a consistent solution (I used 42andbelow vodka, I thought its supposed to be high quality!!)

I'll go try the ferulic acid again... looks like I gotta go buy more ferulic acid since the last time i only ordered one tube!

free skin care · Tue Jun 23, 2009 10:13 pm

funkydory wrote:

^^ Thanks havana8 for consolidating all the recipes for us!

About the FA, I didn't get a consistent solution (I used 42andbelow vodka, I thought its supposed to be high quality!!)

I'll go try the ferulic acid again... looks like I gotta go buy more ferulic acid since the last time i only ordered one tube!

I've had the same 5 gram tube of FA for months and months, and it's stil more than half full..

You should only be using 1/4 tsp in a 1oz cream or serum... You want to keep the concentration at .5%

Any old vodka will do.. Don't know where you got the idea it should be high quality.. Confused

Did you try making a serum following the complete recipe/instructions as posted?

free skin care · Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:41 am

Kassy_A wrote:

funkydory wrote:

^^ Thanks havana8 for consolidating all the recipes for us!

About the FA, I didn't get a consistent solution (I used 42andbelow vodka, I thought its supposed to be high quality!!)

I'll go try the ferulic acid again... looks like I gotta go buy more ferulic acid since the last time i only ordered one tube!

I've had the same 5 gram tube of FA for months and months, and it's stil more than half full..

You should only be using 1/4 tsp in a 1oz cream or serum... You want to keep the concentration at .5%

Any old vodka will do.. Don't know where you got the idea it should be high quality.. Confused

Did you try making a serum following the complete recipe/instructions as posted?

I was thinking the more expensive the better right? Lol! Its for my face!! And only a little bit.. I can afford that (My excuse to buy a bottle =p)

I followed the instructions, but it didn't dissolve fully. I will try again tonight. The serum I made yesterday is a little murky with little clumps, still usable I guess but not what I will say good consistency.

Wed Jun 24, 2009 4:16 am

Kassy,
I've just finished your Viterol A based C serum from pages ago (thank you, thank you, thank you) and am ready (drumroll) to take the next DIY step and try your latest.
Only thing is, I have the dreaded HA powder. (Woe is me.) From Skinactives. Who say, and I'm paraphrasing, just bung it in your cream... and risk a 'balls-up' Shock

?
Are they mad?
Please advise. Do you think I can get away with mixing with SKB? Vodka? (Should I mix me with some vodka?) Please advise. (Oh, I already said that.)
Yours nervously.

free skin care · Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:11 am

cheesetoastie wrote:

Kassy,
I've just finished your Viterol A based C serum from pages ago (thank you, thank you, thank you) and am ready (drumroll) to take the next DIY step and try your latest.
Only thing is, I have the dreaded HA powder. (Woe is me.) From Skinactives. Who say, and I'm paraphrasing, just bung it in your cream... and risk a 'balls-up' Shock

?
Are they mad?
Please advise. Do you think I can get away with mixing with SKB? Vodka? (Should I mix me with some vodka?) Please advise. (Oh, I already said that.)
Yours nervously.

I'm on top of myself with packing, closing up the house, and a million last minute things to do right now..

I promise, I will be back later on tonight, and will have an answer for how you should proceed.. (It's all about the dreaded math, which skinactives never makes very clear.. Sad

)

free skin care · Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:50 pm

Okay, here's what it says at skinactives.com for the 1gm powder/vial of hyaluronic acid;

Usage
Each tube is enough for 4 fl oz of cream or lotion at approximately 1% concentration (1 g in 120 mL cream). Use in your favorite cream or add to our Canvas Base Cream or a Sea Kelp Bioferment base.

Hyaluronic Acid can also be added to any cream, gel or lotion to thicken a mixture. Add some powder to a small amount of water, let it absorb and form a gel, then mix into the desired product. Keep Hyaluronic Acid in its closed container, in a cool dry place, until ready to use. Be careful when using in a cream or other mixture as it is tricky to get the quantities correct, and using too much may spoil a cream.

So if 1gm will give you a 1% concentration in a 4oz formula (120ml/gm), you would have enough in that vial to make four, 1oz C serums..(30ml/gm to 1oz).. You need to use one fourth of what's in the vial..

I believe if you keep it right around the 1/4 tsp mark you will be okay.. (Technically it will be more like 1/4 + 1/8th tsp) if you want to be really exact..

So now that I've confused you all, the bottom line is to stick with 1/4 tsp powdered HA for a 1oz serum.. You will have the best result if you mix it in a bit of the distilled water, then add it to the serum..

For those who are using the powder, seperate 1 tsp of the distilled water that you are using for the serum to mix the HA into.. Just dissolve the L-AA in the other 2 tsp. of water.

HA is a swift pain in the booty, and you are more than welcome to leave it out if you like a thinner serum.

Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:31 pm

Kassy, thanks so much for clearing that up. My Skinactives handout was no where near as informative (mental note: check their website). In a nutshell, HA needs to be added to water and should never be over 1% to avoid ending up with spackle. (Disaster averted. Wink

)
I'm also about to start on my first eye-serum and face lotion and was hoping to run it by you and Alley first. I'll post later, but do have a percentages question with which I'd love some help. If you are looking at adding 10% of an active to say a 30 ml serum, would it be:
a) 27ml 'base' to 3ml active; or
b) 30ml 'base' to 3ml active.
I'd go 'a', but I've seen another post describe it as 'b'. What do you guys think?

And again - thanks so much for time and generosity. I truly love this thread.

free skin care · Wed Jun 24, 2009 7:52 pm

Mama Kass-

Are you still handing out the NIA 24 recipe?

Thanks.

free skin care · Wed Jun 24, 2009 8:28 pm

I only ever used niacinamide once in my life, so I won't be much help to you..

Here's what skinactives says:

Usage
Each tube is enough for 32 fl oz of cream or lotion at approximately 0.5% concentration (5 g in 960 mL cream). Use in your favorite cream or add to our Canvas Base Cream or a Sea Kelp Bioferment base.

I have one foot out the door literally, and don't have time to do the math, but with the info above, I'm sure someone will chime in to help you.. (My guess would be a pinch or two.. Embarassed

)

** Warning**
Please note that application of niacinamide is contra-indicated for people affected by Parkinson disease.

Inky, I don't remember doing a "Nia 24" recipe.. Confused

Cheese; 'a' is correct.. 3 mL gives you 10% concentration of active, in a 1oz (30mL) cream or serum. So 3 mL + 27 mL of the remaining fluid volume..(If using several actives, just follow this principal)

To all;

Have fun, and behave yourselves till I get back on 7/12.. I'll try to check in a couple of times per week..

BIG hugs...

free skin care · Thu Jun 25, 2009 12:21 am

^^ Have a good break Kassy!

I made my 2nd batch of ferulic acid + vit c and e serum last night... The ferulic acid still settles on the bottom but its a little better than the first. I think after I'm done, I'll try again to stir the FA with vodka for a longer time.

free skin care · Thu Jun 25, 2009 1:45 am

I went to Ross Dress for Less and picked up the shot glasses. SkinActives order was picked up Mon. The orders from Tropical Traditions, LotionCrafters, and The Personal Formulator have arrived. All I am waiting for now are orders from Essential Wholesale and Garden of Wisdom and I'll be good to go.
What we really need is one stop shopping Brick wall

Now I don't know if I should go ahead and try to formulate something or wait for Kassy to get back
hmm

free skin care · Thu Jun 25, 2009 5:20 am

Have fun Kassy. And use a lot of sunscreen. Laughing

free skin care · Thu Jun 25, 2009 6:04 am

milbader wrote:

I went to Ross Dress for Less and picked up the shot glasses. SkinActives order was picked up Mon. The orders from Tropical Traditions, LotionCrafters, and The Personal Formulator have arrived. All I am waiting for now are orders from Essential Wholesale and Garden of Wisdom and I'll be good to go.
What we really need is one stop shopping Brick wall

Now I don't know if I should go ahead and try to formulate something or wait for Kassy to get back
hmm

Go for it sister - the rest of us are still here Laughing

Bet'n all of us we had better be able to figure it out!!! Wink

I could not agree more on the one stop shopping - I finally developed a spreadsheet ( Idea

from some brilliant EDS memeber) of what the ingredient is - what the concentration should be and most importantly where the hell I bought it!

after posting I realize I better tell you will be out of town this weekend starting tonight. I am not sure how much internet access I will have.

free skin care · Thu Jun 25, 2009 8:59 pm

Will miss ya Kassy...
Have heaps of fun. Very Happy

free skin care · Sat Jun 27, 2009 9:28 am

One more question about the ferulic acid. When its dissolved in the vodka, there will be no more sediments in the solution right? So you guys just get a evenly concentrated serum like solution after that.

I haven't seem to have much luck on that. Still trying!!

free skin care · Sat Jul 04, 2009 7:03 am

I know that Kassy is away but maybe someone can answer this question for me. In the formulation for the mystery face cream Kassy calls for Vitamins C+E. Would that be 1.5 cc of Vit. E and 1.5 cc of Vit.C. If so how much LAA do I need to dissolve? Or, is Vit. C+E an individual product that I need to purchase?

hmm

Here is a list of the ingredients in the mystery creams: (I use approximately 1 1/2 CC's of each active in a 2oz cream or serum for the face)

Face Cream

green tea extract
grapeseed oil
wheat protein
algae extract
mushroom extract
soya lecithin (Supplement gel cap can be used)
vitamins A, (I highly recommend Retinol 1.0% from NCN or Cellbone)
vitamins C + E
hyaluronic acid
SKB
DMAE (less than 3% so no worries there, just a bit of firming)
argerilene (I prefer 5%, but up to 10% can be used)
niacinamide (if you use Olay or CVS perfecting cream as a base, that will suffice)
Matrixyl 3000

For a base any of these can be used; (After much trial and error with preservatives and emulsifiers, I've decided to take the easy way out and use the following as my bases.) This also cuts out an additional 2 or 3 formulating steps.

CVS brand Perfecting Cream (Olay knock off that's almost identical)
Juice Beauty Serums (any will do)
Base Cream (all suppliers have it)

free skin care · Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:33 am

millbader are you refering to the c+e+ferulic acid serum or the firming/smoothing/anti-oxidant facial cream?

If you are refering to the c+e+ferulic acid serum all of the recipes are located here
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902
There are more than a few versions.

free skin care · Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:42 am

I need the measured amounts of:

vitamins C + E

from the recipe above for the face cream.

I made the Vit C, E + Ferulic a few days ago.

free skin care · Wed Jul 08, 2009 12:45 pm

Here is the recipe for the face cream

Firming/Smoothing/Anti-Oxidant Cream 4oz

Alpha Lipoic Acid (1 tsp)
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (Matrixyl) (1 cc/ml or 1/2 tube if from Skinactives)
Coenzyme Q10 (1/4 tsp)
DMAE Bitartrate (1 1/2 tsp)
Ferulic Acid (1/2 tsp)
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)(1 tsp)
Anti-Oxidant Booster (3 squirts)
Every Lipid Serum (ELS) (5 squirts)
Green Tea Extract (1/2 tsp)
Algae Extract (1/2 tsp)
Lactic Acid (5 drops)
Palm + Coconut Oils (1/2 tsp of each)
Skinactives Base Cream (4oz jar with 2 TBS removed)
SKB (just enough to mix the DMAE + MAP in separately, before adding to the final cream. A heaping tsp is good.)

Everything can be added and mixed into the base cream in no particular order,

EXCEPT the DMAE + MAP, which needs to be mixed separately into the SKB, and then added to the cream.. (Adding it directly to the cream with cause the cream to liquify!!!)

Just add and stir each active in one at a time, keeping the DMAE, MAP, SKB mixture, and also the Lactic Acid till the end..
If you are going to make an eye serum out of this cream as well, scoop a TBS out before adding the Lactic Acid as the final step..

free skin care · Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:34 pm

is this a better c-serum than Kassy's one with Viterol? C plus E plus Ferulic, etc etc?
Was about to order it all...
hmmmm Confused

free skin care · Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:50 pm

A serum and a cream are two different types of treatment. The serum goes under the cream/lotion.

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