Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
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free skin care · Sun Aug 02, 2009 2:58 pm

Until I found this board I never really exfoliated at all. I was fearful of damaging my skin further. Derm. once told me never to get a peel since I burn so easily. So for 20+ years I avoided using any exfoliating products. I've been slowly added some exfoliating products, some chemical some physical, and my skin is now baby soft and smooth.

free skin care · Sun Aug 02, 2009 3:57 pm

Barefootgirl wrote:

Hi all,

I am back to my planning phases of developing an *oil based* C+E+Ferulic

so far,

I have rice bran oil and squalene or jojoba? as a base

Add:

TA for the C
Gamma Oryzanol for the Ferulic
D-Alpha Tocopheral capsule for the E

Rice bran oil already has quantities of E and Ferulic, but though I could boost these a little bit to make super oil based serum.

Suggestions for ratios/percentages/quantities of each to come up with a decent serum?

Thanks, BF

Where did you source the Gamma Oryzanol from? I can only find it in supplement form. Is it ok to use it topically?

I make a Niacinamide and Glucosamine serum by just combining with water and glycerine. I think the recipe is in the thread that Havana gave you.

Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:08 pm

Keliu wrote:

Barefootgirl wrote:

Hi all,

I am back to my planning phases of developing an *oil based* C+E+Ferulic

so far,

I have rice bran oil and squalene or jojoba? as a base

Add:

TA for the C
Gamma Oryzanol for the Ferulic
D-Alpha Tocopheral capsule for the E

Rice bran oil already has quantities of E and Ferulic, but though I could boost these a little bit to make super oil based serum.

Suggestions for ratios/percentages/quantities of each to come up with a decent serum?

Thanks, BF

Where did you source the Gamma Oryzanol from? I can only find it in supplement form. Is it ok to use it topically?

I make a Niacinamide and Glucosamine serum by just combining with water and glycerine. I think the recipe is in the thread that Havana gave you.

It's in the recipe index too under Serums & Potions. Search for Keliu or Niacinamide on that thread.

free skin care · Sun Aug 02, 2009 6:22 pm

I got it from Skin Actives - if I recall correctly, it is oil soluble, so that works great for my latest recipes which are all turning out that way.

Thanks all for the info -

BF

Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:25 am

I apologize if I missed something, but what does MAP stand for (Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). If there is a post in the forums somewhere explaining the abbreviations please let me know. I have looked and I don't want to overload the forums. Thanks

free skin care · Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:49 am

Freeborn81 wrote:

I apologize if I missed something, but what does MAP stand for (Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). If there is a post in the forums somewhere explaining the abbreviations please let me know. I have looked and I don't want to overload the forums. Thanks

You have what MAP stands for in your post - Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate. You can check it out here:

http://www.bulkactives.com/map.htm

Wed Aug 05, 2009 7:47 am

Freeborn81 wrote:

I apologize if I missed something, but what does MAP stand for (Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate). If there is a post in the forums somewhere explaining the abbreviations please let me know. I have looked and I don't want to overload the forums. Thanks

Here is the Frequent Acronyms thread:
http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=3228

Welcome to EDS. Smile

free skin care · Wed Aug 05, 2009 2:48 pm

Hi Ladies,

So I’ve decided to put together a hybrid serum based on all my DIY reading at EDS (mostly Kassy—thanks!). Currently, I use Kassy’s C, E, + FE serum in the morning, and I’m looking to create a nourishing evening serum. I’m in my late 20s, and I have combo skin. My main goals are preventing wrinkles (I am already a *dedicated* sunblock user), evening/brightening my skin tone, fading acne marks, preventing breakouts (which are mostly controlled). I read at smartskincare.com that I probably don’t need to start with DMAE or anything like that yet. So I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing your thoughts on the recipe I have so far—any crazy potential reactions I missed? Any suggestions for ingredients (the recipe has questions marks)? Also, I use a peel 1-2 times a week plus microfiber, but should I add an exfoliant? Thanks as always ladies!

“Preventative Medicine” Serum Experiment 1 oz.

BASE (4 tsp.=23 cc’s):
2 tsp. Juice Beauty antioxidant serum
1 tsp. SKB
1 tsp. ???? (water? argan oil? hemp seed oil? more JB?—I don’t need glycerin b/c I’m a little oily)

ACTIVES (7 cc’s):
1 cc green tea extract
1/8 tsp. niacinamide (3%)
1 cc avocado oil
1 cc seaweed extract
1 cc ALA
2 cc’s ???? up for grabs: rosehip seed oil? black willowbark extract? cranberry extract?

free skin care · Wed Aug 05, 2009 5:29 pm

KBLang wrote:

Hi Ladies,

So I’ve decided to put together a hybrid serum based on all my DIY reading at EDS (mostly Kassy—thanks!). Currently, I use Kassy’s C, E, + FE serum in the morning, and I’m looking to create a nourishing evening serum. I’m in my late 20s, and I have combo skin. My main goals are preventing wrinkles (I am already a *dedicated* sunblock user), evening/brightening my skin tone, fading acne marks, preventing breakouts (which are mostly controlled). I read at smartskincare.com that I probably don’t need to start with DMAE or anything like that yet. So I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind sharing your thoughts on the recipe I have so far—any crazy potential reactions I missed? Any suggestions for ingredients (the recipe has questions marks)? Also, I use a peel 1-2 times a week plus microfiber, but should I add an exfoliant? Thanks as always ladies!

“Preventative Medicine” Serum Experiment 1 oz.

BASE (4 tsp.=23 cc’s):
2 tsp. Juice Beauty antioxidant serum
1 tsp. SKB
1 tsp. ???? (water? argan oil? hemp seed oil? more JB?—I don’t need glycerin b/c I’m a little oily)

ACTIVES (7 cc’s):
1 cc green tea extract
1/8 tsp. niacinamide (3%)
1 cc avocado oil
1 cc seaweed extract
1 cc ALA
2 cc’s ???? up for grabs: rosehip seed oil? black willowbark extract? cranberry extract?

That looks awesome!

For those 2 cc's up for grabs, I would use Glucosamine + either Lactic or Hydroxy acid. The willow bark is good also. These will really work on evening out, and brightening your skintone..

For the extra base tsp, I would just add a bit more of the JB. Considering you are just a Very Happy

youngun

, and do have occassional breakouts, I'd go on the light side with oils.. The bit of avocado oil you've included is perfect.

Another nice thing (if you don't already have it) is Jojoba oil..(really a wax ester!) I'm really liking this stuff, and it's fabulous to formulate with. If you do have it, a cc of that would be nice as well..

I've never used Hemp or Argan Oil, but I've read wonderful things about both on the forum..

Oh, Lawdy, so many goodies to play with, for such a little moolah... Finally we are getting what we pay for in a product, and the best part is it works!!!!

Yay us!

free skin care · Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:01 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

That looks awesome!

For those 2 cc's up for grabs, I would use Glucosamine + either Lactic or Hydroxy acid. The willow bark is good also. These will really work on evening out, and brightening your skintone..

For the extra base tsp, I would just add a bit more of the JB. Considering you are just a Very Happy

youngun

, and do have occassional breakouts, I'd go on the light side with oils.. The bit of avocado oil you've included is perfect.

Another nice thing (if you don't already have it) is Jojoba oil..(really a wax ester!) I'm really liking this stuff, and it's fabulous to formulate with. If you do have it, a cc of that would be nice as well..

I've never used Hemp or Argan Oil, but I've read wonderful things about both on the forum..

Oh, Lawdy, so many goodies to play with, for such a little moolah... Finally we are getting what we pay for in a product, and the best part is it works!!!!

Yay us!

Thanks Kassy!

is exactly how I've been feeling--here's to finally getting bang for our buck!

Thanks also for the advice on what to add. I might go with the willowbark and jojoba, and I'm going to go ahead and order glucosamine. Ooh, just read about licorice extract, might need to throw that in there too! I've been doing some searching on acids, and I just wanted to check if I could just use citric or malic acid for my AHA? Or did you have a specific hydroxy in mind? I get a little confused with all the acids!

And the lactic acid quantity was 4 oz.! I'm tempted to just head to my fridge for some milk... I mean, we do add vodka to the Vit C serum. Laughing

FYI, argan oil was what actually got me into skincare and EDS--adult acne struck and I finally decided to splurge on Josie Maran argan oil after months of nothing conventional working. Which meant I spent $50 for 2 oz. of a straight carrier oil. Shock

But soon I found EDS, and that opened up my beauty world! Now for $50 I can DIY for the whole neighborhood. Very Happy

I still use argan as a moisturizer when I need it, sometimes mixed with a little tamanu--my skin continues to react very favorably to them both.

free skin care · Wed Aug 05, 2009 9:32 pm

I've had my 4oz lactic acid from TPF for ages.. I think I like it best of all, it just seems to agree with me.. I actually throw a tsp of that into my Alpha Hydroxy Souffle cream, and it really pumps it up.. Shock

Mostly I just stick with a few basic acids + antioxidants, which seems to work best for me.

It's amazing how many actives are available to us, which deal with a multitude of skin problems.. We have barely touched the surface.. There is so much to learn.

I agree with you about the goodies in the fridge also.. Laughing

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:18 am

Kassy_A wrote:

I've had my 4oz lactic acid from TPF for ages.. I think I like it best of all, it just seems to agree with me.. I actually throw a tsp of that into my Alpha Hydroxy Souffle cream, and it really pumps it up.. Shock

Mostly I just stick with a few basic acids + antioxidants, which seems to work best for me.

It's amazing how many actives are available to us, which deal with a multitude of skin problems.. We have barely touched the surface.. There is so much to learn.

I agree with you about the goodies in the fridge also.. Laughing

I am confused about acids also - where and when can you use the lactic acid? I have the 4 oz bottle from TPF and but use it in only one formula. Is that an active we have to be careful what we add it to and with what?

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 6:29 am

Hello all I have "tested" this formula twice now with no disasters so I thought I would share. I love this body lotion for summer (I use a AHA lotion in the non sun exposure months). It is really light and absorbs very quickly.

8 oz Jojoba Lotion Base - from Essential Wholesale
1/4 tsp Niacinamide (Vit B) - .5%
1 1/ tsp Glycerin - 3%
1 tsp Algae Extract
1 tbsp MSM dissolve powder in water - 10% (it takes about 12 capsules if you are using)
Distilled Water enough to dissolve MSM
1 tsp Vodka
1/2 tsp Ferulic Acid - mix in vodka - 1%
.75 mil Alpha Bisabolol - .3%
2 1/2 tsp Vitamin E Acetate - 5%
2 1/2 tsp MAP (Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate) 5%
2 tbsp SKB
1 1/2 tsp Dermal Defense 3%
1/2 tsp Hyaluronic Acid (HA) 1%
1/4 tsp scent if you choose

Great tip from Kassy is to use 2 oz of base to mix the everything in and then add to rest of base much easier to handle.

Dissolve the MSM in water in separate glass
Mix the FA in the vodka in 3rd glass

Mix everything together

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 2:39 pm

There is a liquid Vitamin C available at New Directions. Has anyone tried using that?
http://shop.newdirections.com.au/epages/newdirections.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/newdirections/Categories/17/178

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 5:11 pm

miss anna wrote:

There is a liquid Vitamin C available at New Directions. Has anyone tried using that?
http://shop.newdirections.com.au/epages/newdirections.sf/en_AU/?ObjectPath=/Shops/newdirections/Categories/17/178

This is an oil soluble Vitamin C so it has to be combined with other oils. I use it and mix it into Pomegranate Oil. Oil soluble C is also supposed to be much more stable than LAA.

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:00 pm

YOO HOO Ms Kassy!

A problem in the ...la booor a tory...! I just made your C w/Jojoba serum and the oil is separating. Crying or Very sad

This is what I did...

I put 1 t L-AA in shot glass, added 3 t of distilled water and stirred till clear (only seconds -Lotioncrafter). I set this aside.

I put 1/4 t FA (Skinactives) in a second shot glass and "poured" 1/4 t vodka in and stirred till fully mixed. I then added a very thick and gloppy 1 t SKB (Skinactives) and stirred mightily. I put it in the microwave 5ish minutes and it came out thick and creamy. Then I added 1 t Jojoba Oil and 1/4 t E oil (both pure without additives and fresh from the health food store). I stirred more mightily this time.

I added the L-AA glass into the oil glass and stirred until my arm went limp Laughing

but I never could fully incorporate the beads of oil into the mix. We're talking several minutes. On sitting now it appears to be fully separated.

Should I toss this and start over (I have a lifetime supply of L-AA) or should I put it in a small bottle and shake the h*ll out of it before using??

A little humility and alot of whimpering going on here.... Laughing

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:07 pm

I am not Kassy but I think this may be your problem

"I put it in the microwave 5ish minutes and it came out thick and creamy."

Should go in microwave 5-6ish seconds

Hope that helps.

free skin care · Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:50 pm

Thanks for the reply Milbader. Actually, what I haven't admitted to...I made my first batch last night. The 6 minutes in my microwave "cooked it". The glass was hot and the serum a light yellow. So this time I gave it a 3 minute shot and then a 2 minute one. It looked good till I put the oils in.

Was your SKB really thick and globby? I thought that that (instead of my ignorance) could be the problem. Hoped actually...

I'm sure you're right though...the heating thing.

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 5:10 am

Zoftig wrote:

I added the L-AA glass into the oil glass and stirred until my arm went limp Laughing

but I never could fully incorporate the beads of oil into the mix. We're talking several minutes. On sitting now it appears to be fully separated.

Not Kassy either....but you'll never get oil and water to mix together without an emulsifier. Maybe the Juice Beauty serum that Kassy uses has one and that's how she gets it to combine - we'll have to wait and see what she says.

I'm also not sure whether it's ok to put actives in the microwave either - the heat might kill their effectiveness - but I'm just guessing.

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 9:29 am

Zoftig:
Yes, SKB is thick and gel like.

This formulation uses less vodka only 1/4 tea the non-jojoba formula uses a full 1 tea. Maybe bump up the amount of vodka to incorporate the oils?

Instructions from Kassy: "Yes, still the same 2 phases.. The JO along with the vitamin E."

Here are the steps for the formulation:

Glass #1: Dissolve LAA in H2O
Stir frequently as it may take up to 30 minutes to fully dissolve

Glass #2: Dissolve Ferulic Acid in Vodka
Add SKB and stir
Microwave for 6 seconds
Add Vitamin E and stir
Add Jojoba and stir

Mix Glass #1 into Glass #2
Stir

Sorry I cannot be of more help.

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:12 am

Lawd have moicy.. I turn my back one day (sick again. Sad

), and you're off cooking your SKB.. Laughing

If you want to thin the SKB down, just 4 or 5 SECONDS is enough.. (5 minutes was your problems, as you cooked out all the emulsifying goodness.. Shock

)

The SKB + Jojoba oil both have emulsifying properties, and are all that's needed to incorporate everything..

Have another look at the picture I posted of the finished product.. You've done everything exactly correct, except the microwaving of the SKB.. Have another try keeping everything the same, with 5 seconds for the SKB.. Wink

Alley, you're body lotion looks fabuloso! I'm going to give that a go.. Thanks for sharing!

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:25 am

Thank you ladies!

Keilu, I added some Juice Beauty serum to the mix I already had. It still didn't mix but it was worth the try.

Milbader, I added just a tad more vodka (1/8 t?) in the next (now the third) and did microwave it the 6 seconds. It again came out a pale yellow but I'm going to go with that. It seems to be working so far. We'll see what Kassy has to say.

Jan

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 10:39 am

Ms Kassy

Lawd have moicy is right!! I meant 6 seconds!! Embarassed

This latest serum is pale yellow but looked OK for about 5 minutes. Now this (third try) is begining to separate. Do you think it could be the oils I bought at the health food store?

I am absolutely anal about measurements so I don't think I screwed them up. How about just giving this last mix a good shake before applying it. I could always get the two oils from a better supplier online. Huh?

I'm sorry you're not well today. Sad

Surely it's not the E Coli again? I think those green smoothies in your Blendtec will give your immune system a boost!

p.s. edited to add that a very slight stir or shake totally blends it. Maybe this is normal to separate a bit??

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:06 am

Milbader

Sorry about the misinformation. I never microwaved it for minutes just seconds. There goes all my credibility. Rolling Eyes

free skin care · Sat Aug 08, 2009 11:35 am

Z, I'm not sure what the culprit is.. Maybe the oils you bought have other ingredients in there?

I've had no problem with separating with this mix, so I'm stumped with what to tell ya..

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