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Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
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DarkMoon
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Sat Mar 13, 2010 5:32 am      Reply with quote
mithai,

Yes I recall bouncing between the 2 Vitamin C threads! Let us know what you decide to whip up and how it works out. Smile

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Sat Mar 13, 2010 7:10 am      Reply with quote
katewilson wrote:

I would love to hear more of your input because I am also tempted by the 302 philosophy and since you have been there once already.



katewilson, thanks for letting me know all that. First, sorry for going off topic, everyone, please don't shoot me. Just a few thoughts about the Retin A. Are you using the 0.025% cream? It sounds like your skin is sensitive to RA and I would think you should be at the lowest percent. Also, if you aren't using RA daily, then that is why you are continually peeling. A lot of people have that problem when they only use RA a few times a week - it is a cycle. So, if you were to use the RA nightly (tiny pea size amount, lowest strength) your skin would actually get used to the RA much quicker than using it only a few times a week. (Forgive me if you have done this, as I know there are some that the RA is just too strong for in any strength, but I wanted to share that just in case.)

I will send you a PM on the 302 products. No need to go off topic even further here!
katewilson
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Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:50 am      Reply with quote
Sorry about my English writing or if I off topic a little again, but I would like to get an opinion from you guys:

Do you think the oil based tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in 302's C Boost is not as effective as LAA?
Do you think the water based LAA combined with the oil based tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate is even better?
Do you think the retinyl palmitate in 302's B boost is less effective then the actual RetinA?
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Sat Mar 13, 2010 9:51 pm      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
mithai,

Yes I recall bouncing between the 2 Vitamin C threads! Let us know what you decide to whip up and how it works out. Smile


Will do!!..what did YOU decide finally?

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DarkMoon
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Sat Mar 13, 2010 10:05 pm      Reply with quote
mithai wrote:
DarkMoon wrote:
mithai,

Yes I recall bouncing between the 2 Vitamin C threads! Let us know what you decide to whip up and how it works out. Smile


Will do!!..what did YOU decide finally?


I make a basic C serum and another with THDA and use both just covering all my options! Smile

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Sun Mar 14, 2010 12:02 am      Reply with quote
DarkMoon wrote:
mithai wrote:
DarkMoon wrote:
mithai,

Yes I recall bouncing between the 2 Vitamin C threads! Let us know what you decide to whip up and how it works out. Smile


Will do!!..what did YOU decide finally?


I make a basic C serum and another with THDA and use both just covering all my options! Smile


Smile

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Sat Mar 20, 2010 2:51 pm      Reply with quote
3oz Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion

This is a nice pre treatment to use prior to your gadget treatments. For pre LED, use 30 minutes prior, and if your base cream has any silicone, just give a quick water spritz, and wipe it away after 30 minutes.

2 TBS Oil Free Base Cream/Lotion (TPF's is pretty good.)
2 TBS Distilled H20
1 TBS Aloe Vera Gel (Find a drugstore product with 'Disodium EDTA' in the ingredient list!)
8 Drops Optiphen (Preservative)
2 1/2 ml/cc Pumpkin Seed Extract (4%)
3 ml/cc Goji Berry Extract (5%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Green Tea Extract (2%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Algae Extract (2%)
.6 ml/cc Hyaluronic Acid Serum/liquid (1%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Sodium PCA (2%)

Start by mixing the Optiphen into the H20, then stir/mix in the aloe and base cream, then add and stir in each of the remaining ingredients/actives one at a time, stirring each in well.

A bit of info on why I chose these actives;

*Pumpkin Seed Extract; smooths fine lines + helps with firmness and elasticity

*Goji Berry Extract; when used at 5% it increases ATP by 20%. This is the foundation of collagen building, and is especially synergistic when used with LED treatments. (LED's work to increase collagen synthesis, by increasing the ATP activity in the cells! This active will give it a huge boost)

*Green Tea Extract; probably the best overall antioxidant, but when used with LED treatments it's been proved to really work on fine lines.

*Algae Extract; this is a really nice skin tightener, and just a good nourishment for the skin.

*Hyaluronic Acid; great moisturizing properties and gives a bit of plumpness to the skin.. More is not better with this, so be sure to keep it at 1%.

*Socium PCA; it's a great humectant/moisturizer, and will absorb water/moisture much like HA does.

Happy formulating!

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Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:15 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
3oz Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion


2 TBS Oil Free Base Cream/Lotion (TPF's is pretty good.)
2 TBS Distilled H20
1 TBS Aloe Vera Gel (Find a drugstore product with 'Disodium EDTA' in the ingredient list!)
8 Drops Optiphen (Preservative)
2 1/2 ml/cc Pumpkin Seed Extract (4%)
3 ml/cc Goji Berry Extract (5%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Green Tea Extract (2%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Algae Extract (2%)
.6 ml/cc Hyaluronic Acid Serum/liquid (1%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Sodium PCA (2%)

*Hyaluronic Acid; great moisturizing properties and gives a bit of plumpness to the skin.. More is not better with this, so be sure to keep it at 1%.



This makes no sense at all to me. I believe you are starting with a solution of 1% Hyaluronic Acid serum/solution. This product is 99% water and 1% "active", assuming a simple volume ratio. When you add a solution to another composition (meaning all the other ingredients in the recipe), the overall percentage of the active in question will decrease. I don't understand the warning to not use too much. You can't "keep it at 1%" unless you add more pure HA powder.

Adding 0.6 ml (cc) of Hyaluronic acid serum/liquid is really not adding all that much HA to the overall recipe (the math works out to 0.007% which is well under 1%)

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Sat Mar 20, 2010 4:50 pm      Reply with quote
Lacy53 wrote:
Kassy_A wrote:
3oz Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion


2 TBS Oil Free Base Cream/Lotion (TPF's is pretty good.)
2 TBS Distilled H20
1 TBS Aloe Vera Gel (Find a drugstore product with 'Disodium EDTA' in the ingredient list!)
8 Drops Optiphen (Preservative)
2 1/2 ml/cc Pumpkin Seed Extract (4%)
3 ml/cc Goji Berry Extract (5%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Green Tea Extract (2%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Algae Extract (2%)
.6 ml/cc Hyaluronic Acid Serum/liquid (1%)
1 1/2 ml/cc Sodium PCA (2%)

*Hyaluronic Acid; great moisturizing properties and gives a bit of plumpness to the skin.. More is not better with this, so be sure to keep it at 1%.



This makes no sense at all to me. I believe you are starting with a solution of 1% Hyaluronic Acid serum/solution. This product is 99% water and 1% "active", assuming a simple volume ratio. When you add a solution to another composition (meaning all the other ingredients in the recipe), the overall percentage of the active in question will decrease. I don't understand the warning to not use too much. You can't "keep it at 1%" unless you add more pure HA powder.

Adding 0.6 ml (cc) of Hyaluronic acid serum/liquid is really not adding all that much HA to the overall recipe (the math works out to 0.007% which is well under 1%)



You have said time and again that you don't use DIY products, so maybe that is why you aren't well versed on the subject, I don't know.

Anyway, because you have now gave others cause to second guess their attempts with this DIY recipe, I will provide you with the info for the hyaluronic acid I use for simple ease in the recipe's, and other's are aware of;

http://www.personalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?products_id=1188

INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate

Sodium Hyaluronate is the sodium salt of Hyaluronic Acid. It is a biopolymer produced by fermentation. It is supplied as a 1% water solution. Due to its natural skin-like properties, excellent water retentive capacity and high viscoelacticity, it is highly recommended for skin products, such as creams, lotions, sprays, lipsticks, etc. The recommended usage for skin care products is 0.25% to 2%

To a 4oz cream for 2% use level, add 2.27g or 1/2 tsp



It's very sad that you always look to find fault with me, but not even once have you had anything nice or positive to say. I'll take it as high praise that you found nothing else negative to say about the remainder of my recipe... Rolling Eyes

Apologies to everybody else, but I won't revisit this thread until I have a new recipe to post. As always, I'm a PM away.

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Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:42 pm      Reply with quote
I like to try Kassy's new recipe she posted today "Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion" for pre LED.

The only base cream I found is call " Everyday Cream Base" and it's ingrdient has Safflower seed oil listed as 2nd, Is it meant not oil free?

http://www.personalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?products_id=612


"2 TBS Oil Free Base Cream/Lotion (TPF's is pretty good.)"

but I can't find a oil free base cream one TPF.
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Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:46 pm      Reply with quote
oh, I found it, may it's this one:

" Multi-Lamellar CREAM - oil free"

http://www.personalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?cPath=16_21&products_id=524
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:09 pm      Reply with quote
This is a brand new A, C + E serum which I'm so impressed with after one week, I'm confident in posting here for all other DIY guru's...(For those who don't enjoy the DIY venue regularly, please do your research before jumping in to cast doubt on this recipe.)

Because both Vitamin C and Retinyl are extremely susceptible to degradation from UVA + oxygen exposure, I have opted to tweak my routine a bit, and use this at night before beddy bye. For those who want to use it during the day, I would say you should be sure you can have 30 minutes or so after application, before you hit the great outdoors! (Once an A or C product penetrates the epidermis, I don't believe that UV rays can degrade it from that point)...This is purely MHO, based on my own research. Feel free to research further!

VITAMIN C (20%), E + A (RETINYL) SERUM (4-5-10)

This serum incorporates L-Ascorbic Acid, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate + Retinyl Palmitate, and has just a small amount of water added, so it can address both the water + lipid parts of the skin cells. (You will derive the best of what vitamin C has to offer, if you address *all* components of each cell... That would be lipid and water.)

VITAMIN A, C (20%) + RETINYL (1%) + E (1%) SERUM 4/5/10

1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid (15%) (I recommend Lotioncrafter's!)
1.5 ml/cc THDA (5%) Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
.3 ml/cc Vitamin E Oil (I opt for Rosehip Oil for this serum, but any high quality 'E' oil will suffice)
.3 ml/cc Retinyl Palmitate (There is Retinyl Palmitate in the 'Skin Gel' fairly high on the list,) but because it's such a highly degradable active, I choose to add an additional 1% to mine. Feel free to tweak this to your own needs, and yes it is a very expensive active ($32./oz).
1/2 tsp Grapeseed Oil
3 or 4 drops of Tangerine Essential Oil (Optional... I just love the smell of it!)
*3 tsp "Skin Gel"
http://www.vitacost.com/Aloe-Life-Whole-Leaf-Aloe-Vera-Skin-Gel-Unscented See ingredients below! This is a beigy tea colored gel, and it's awesome in this serum. (For those who don't want to use this "exact" product, you will need to research your own choice...This particular product is exactly what I was looking for.)
1/16th tsp Disodium EDTA (This amount is just the very corner of the DIY "spatula" we are all familiar with) A tiny bit is enough!
2 tsp Distilled Water (warmed)

Glass #1:

Measure your L-AA into a shot glass and pour 2 tsp of (warmish) distilled water on it. Stir occasionally while it's set aside. (This will look milky white, and should completely dissolve before you incorporate it into the oil phase.)

Glass #2

Measure in your THDA, add and stir in your vitamin E + grapeseed oil, now add in your Retinyl Palmitate. Stir each addition. (These are all the 'oil' soluble components.) If you are using the 'optional' tangerine EO, you would add it here.

Glass #3 (This is where you'll combine both phases!)

When the L-AA has completely dissolved in the distilled H20, you will then incorporate both phases together. Just add the water phase slowly into the oil phase, while continually stirring and pouring slowly to combine.

This is a fairly thich gel/serum type of emulsion, and is best used in a "dropper" type dark blue or amber bottle. I keep mine in the fridge because vitamin C and Retinyl are both highly degradable... Retinyl products in general are fully potent for about 4 to 5 weeks of when formulated, so don't make more than an ounce of this at a time.... (Sure, the folks who want to take big bucks from you would have you believe diffently, but their full of shittay! Very Happy

*Please keep in mind that the "Skin Gel" is a light brownish color, and the finished serum will reflect that." For this serum you will either trust me implicitely and know in your heart that I wouldn't steer you wrong, or move on to all the other DIY recipe's that have been posted lately..... Laughing Rolling Eyes Laughing (Yeah, I know, nobody else has the *balls* to post a recipe... Laughing ) Or so I hear.... Very Happy Oh well, what can I tell ya, I'm a glutton for punishment... Bad Grin

Skin Gel:
http://www.vitacost.com/Aloe-Life-Whole-Leaf-Aloe-Vera-Skin-Gel-Unscented

This is what the serum looks like finished;

Image

Okay, so that's what it looks like; (murky beigy-light brown, thick gel), but trust me, it's luv-er-ly stuff)... Dontcha just know I wouldn't share it with ya so soon if it wasn't!

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:17 pm      Reply with quote
Miss Kassy

"(Yeah, I know, nobody else has the *balls* to post a recipe... )"

I don't have the smarts to post a recipe! Laughing
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:00 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy, Thank you for the new C,E plus Retinyl Palmitate serum recipe! yeah Smile I definitely want to try this recipe since the Viterol/LAA Serum is not the option for me anymore. I believe Retinol has had a very good effect on me, maybe even better for me than RetinA. not sure exactly why, may be the RetinA Micro 0.1% is to strong for me like rilleygirl think.

I have been waiting and have always been hoping that someday you would make a recipe like this one, ever since I read what you stated below:

"the powerhouses that really make a difference at the cellular level are; A, C, + E.. Anytime these 3 can be incorporated together, I believe you will have a synergistic one two punch."

Quick question, I used 2 tsp of Aloe Vera Gel with Tetrasodium EDTA to replace the SKB in your 15% VC Serum, can I do the same in my GreenTea Pre_LED serum?
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:22 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Kassy, I made the Nourishing Cell Stimulating Lotion today. I applied it to my face and felt a warm tingling sensation afterward. It was slightly uncomfortable. Can you tell me how much you apply prior to LED treatments and FE? Do you know what ingredient could be causing this? Also, can I refrigerate this lotion?
Thanks for your help.
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:36 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Kassy, I used the TPF's oil free cream base for this recipe. It has dimethicone copolyol which is a silicone derivative. Not sure if you would consider that a silicone that would interfere with the LED. Since the base is oil free then I don't have to spritz with water and wipe it off after 30 minutes do I? Just wanted to double check. Thanks again.
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:14 pm      Reply with quote
Kass you are the BEES KNEES to keep coming up with recipes and sharing them with us. Let's hope the naysayers keep the poo poo to themselves.

As soon as I use up my most recent batch of C, I'm giving this one; (the holy trio) a go.
I've decided to start with CP's in the daytime so this switch to night will work perfectly with that plan.

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:06 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Kassy,

Great to see another recipe.

I think it is good for us to alternate a couple of serums on a regular basis so that our skin can get benefits from various actives.
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:11 pm      Reply with quote
This newest recipe sounds like a good protocal for those of us who dermaroll: with all the goodies needed to keep the skin nourished and ready for the next roll.

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:19 pm      Reply with quote
packratmack wrote:
Hi Kassy, I made the Nourishing Cell Stimulating Lotion today. I applied it to my face and felt a warm tingling sensation afterward. It was slightly uncomfortable. Can you tell me how much you apply prior to LED treatments and FE? Do you know what ingredient could be causing this? Also, can I refrigerate this lotion?
Thanks for your help.


I just apply about a 'dime' sized amount in the palm of my hand, which is my typical application method, and enough for face, neck + hands.

The only guess I have regarding the "warm tingling sensation" is that maybe this concentration of actives might be too much for you. Other than that, are you quite sure you only used 8 drops of preservatives? Optiphen is pretty potent stuff, so if you used too much it might cause irritation. Also, there is always the chance that you are allergic or sensitive to one of the ingredients.

What I would recommend is to add more water + aloe to it (about a TBS), and see if diluting it helps.

As far as the silicone question (in your 2nd post), the tiny amount in the base cream isn't a hindrance to LED treatments, as long as you give the actives 30 minutes or so to absorb, and then just wipe the *film* off before your LED treatment. (Silicone does it's job by forming a film on the skin to keep moisture etc in. Just remove the film and your good to go.)

Yes, you can refrigerate it if you like, but you don't *need* to.

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:31 pm      Reply with quote
katewilson wrote:
Kassy, Thank you for the new C,E plus Retinyl Palmitate serum recipe! yeah Smile I definitely want to try this recipe since the Viterol/LAA Serum is not the option for me anymore. I believe Retinol has had a very good effect on me, maybe even better for me than RetinA. not sure exactly why, may be the RetinA Micro 0.1% is to strong for me like rilleygirl think.

I have been waiting and have always been hoping that someday you would make a recipe like this one, ever since I read what you stated below:

"the powerhouses that really make a difference at the cellular level are; A, C, + E.. Anytime these 3 can be incorporated together, I believe you will have a synergistic one two punch."

Quick question, I used 2 tsp of Aloe Vera Gel with Tetrasodium EDTA to replace the SKB in your 15% VC Serum, can I do the same in my GreenTea Pre_LED serum?


A, C + E still rules IMHO... Very Happy

Which LED serum are you using? Anyhoo, you might want to try a new one I just posted in the AALS thread.. In fact, I'll copy it to this thread for you... Be right back.. Very Happy

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:47 pm      Reply with quote
sister sweets wrote:
Kass you are the BEES KNEES to keep coming up with recipes and sharing them with us.

As soon as I use up my most recent batch of C, I'm giving this one; (the holy trio) a go.
I've decided to start with CP's in the daytime so this switch to night will work perfectly with that plan.


Laughing Bee's knees indeed!

I've switched my C use to the night shift as well... Now I'm getting fanatical about spritzing green + white tea throughout the day which supposedly neutralizes the dreaded free radicals from UV exposure. (Us florida folk need all the help we can get with that Cool )

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 9:49 pm      Reply with quote
***Cross posting from AALS thread***

8oz PRE LED/POST SUN EXPOSURE GREEN/WHITE TEA SPRITZ

-7 1/2 oz distilled water
-2 MSM caplule contents (Opti-MSM recommended)
-2 ml/cc white tea extract ( http://www.vitacost.com/Twinlab-TeaZen-be-u-TEA-licious-organic-White-Tea-extract-Green-Coffee-Berry-Peach ) A full dropper is 1 ml/cc. See ingredients below
-3 ml/cc green tea extract
-2 ml/cc hydrolyzed wheat protein ( http://www.personalformulator.com/wvss/product_info.php?products_id=994 )This is not the same as wheat protein oil!
-2 ml/cc sodium PCA (great humectant!)
-2 ml/cc licorice root extract (nice for those with hyperpigmentation!)
-2 ml/cc algae extract (nice subtle skin tightener along with skin benefits!)
-1.7 ml/cc optiphen (preservative) This will assure potency and stability of actives for several weeks
-***optional***For those who use CP Serum, it's a wonderful addition to this especially if your using it pre LED treatment. Rather than incorporating it into the 8oz spritz, just put your few drops of CP's in the palm of your hand, and add a squirt or two of spritz to it, then apply. (Supposedly copper peptides increase collagen synthesis by 60%, and there is now a couple of studies that prove a synergy when used in conjunction with LED treatments.)

All ingredients are water soluble, so just add everything into an ounce or so of the distilled water, stir well, put in 8oz spritz bottle, and fill to the top with distilled water. I keep mine in fridge for added stability, and well, it just feels nice to have a cool spritz throughout the day.

I've read some info here and there that both white and green tea, when applied after sun exposure, can neutralize the free radicals generated by UV exposure... (Thus my decision to use this throughout the day, and leave my C serum regimes for nighty-night.)

For pre LED use, just spritz liberally on clean exfoliated skin, massage in, and do your treatment when your skin is dry to the touch.

The finished spritz looks much like tea, feels nice + absorbs quickly. You can follow it up with moisturizer (if needed) and makeup... Just don't use this at the same time as vitamin C serum.

White Tea Extract Ingredients;

(99% polyphenols, 60% EGCG), Vegetable glycerin, deionized water, honey, natural peach flavor, magnasweet (licorice root), citrus extract, luo han guo (glycoside/often used as sugar substitute, made from fruit).

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Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:27 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
Which LED serum are you using? Anyhoo, you might want to try a new one I just posted in the AALS thread.. In fact, I'll copy it to this thread for you... Be right back..


This is the recipe that I had question for:

PRE-TREATMENT SERUM FOR LED USE
3oz distilled water
1 TBS AHA cream (I use Alpha Hydroxy Souffle, but I guess any would do)
1 TBS SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
1/2 tsp HA Serum (Hyaluronic Acid)
1/4 tsp Green Tea Extract


My plan is alternate with the one above and the new " Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion " before my AALS.
I already made the new " Nourishing-Cell Stimulating Lotion " and the new 15% VC serum (3/18/10), Both are great! Thank you so much for share your recipes with us..Kassy!!! I hope I can come up some more beautiful words than just Thank you Smile
katewilson
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Joined: 08 Feb 2010
Posts: 24
Mon Apr 05, 2010 10:40 pm      Reply with quote
wow, great, then I just go for the newer one . I am always one step too late, the good things is I already have many of the ingredient for the new spritz. Thanks Kassy.
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