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Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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zyggy
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Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:44 am      Reply with quote
Okay, Dr Kassy, I ordered some Viterol today. You're such an enabler, lol. But I do appreciate your recipes and use my Vit C serum every day, and soon to be improved.

Actually, I'm very excited.

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Sat Dec 06, 2008 11:06 am      Reply with quote
zyggy wrote:
Okay, Dr Kassy, I ordered some Viterol today. You're such an enabler, lol. But I do appreciate your recipes and use my Vit C serum every day, and soon to be improved.

Actually, I'm very excited.



Glad it's working out for ya Zygmeister.. Very Happy

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Mon Dec 08, 2008 9:08 am      Reply with quote
Kassy,
This has been the strangest thing. I have this rash on my face and below my chin not on my chest. Not on my cheeks. I originally thought it was the Viterol A. But I did what you recommended and there was no reaction on my elbow. I have isolated other things I put on my face with no reaction. I am thinking and am pretty sure it is the towel I use at the gym. The reason I think it is the towel I used, is that I only had/have the rash on my face near my hairline and on my brow, and my lower chin. Those are all places I use the towel. Even the back of my neck was itchy. I still have the rash. I have not used the Viterol A again, however I am going to tonight. It is just so odd. Never happened before. However I don't trust the towels at my gym anymore. Someone once told me that they don't wash the towels, they just refold them. I didn't believe them, but maybe I should. I will bring my own towel from now on.
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Mon Dec 08, 2008 11:08 am      Reply with quote
Bringing your own towel is a good idea!

So you pretty much ruled out the Viterol allergy with the elbow test, so that's good. When you start to apply it again, just use it sparingly, and apply to one section at a time, completely rubbing in each area.

Keep in mind it could even be a "sweat rash" from working out. Also, since it's specifically around the hairline, be sure to thoroughly rinse out your shampoo/conditioner.. Have you changed brands recently? That could be the culprit if you did!

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Mon Dec 08, 2008 1:44 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy I hate to muddy the waters here a little but instead of the Viterol A cream could you mix in just Ferulic Acid to get a C+E+Ferulic type of serum?

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Mon Dec 08, 2008 3:14 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
Kassy I hate to muddy the waters here a little but instead of the Viterol A cream could you mix in just Ferulic Acid to get a C+E+Ferulic type of serum?


Yes my dear, you can make a great C,E, ferulic without the Viterol A.. But the Viterol A recipe I posted makes it a cake walk....

Skinceuticals C, E, Ferulic has this;

Synergistic Ingredients – Optimized Antioxidant Cocktail
Discovered by Duke University testing designed to improve the stabilization of SkinCeuticals C+E Serum, Ferulic Acid not only
improved stabilization, but also DOUBLED photoprotection from 4-fold for C+E to 8-fold for C E FERULIC. C E FERULIC is
scientifically optimized and formulated at the precise pH level and concentrations proven to provide maximum delivery of active
ingredients and optimal efficacy. This patent pending formulation provides:
• 15% L-ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C) – Neutralizes free radicals, primarily in the aqueous parts of skin; stimulates collagen
synthesis; regenerates vitamin E when it is used up fighting free radicals; and provides photoprotection.
• 1% Alpha Tocopherol (pure Vitamin E) – Neutralizes free radicals, primarily in the cell membrane and cell lipids; aids in
the healing process; and provides photoprotection.
• 0.5 % Ferulic Acid – Neutralizes free radicals; improves the stability of vitamins C and E; and enhances photoprotection.



You can easily make your own following these percentage amounts.. The reason I offered the semi-homemade recipe with Viterol A, was because it cuts down all that planning, mixing and measuring for the gals who want to get there feet wet with DIY, but don't want the headaches.. It also happens, that the Viterol A has ferulic acid, vitamin e, and the other ingredients already in there, which are totally compatible with Skinceuticals C,E + F...

The recipe I provided will give you a stable, potent, C serum, with a nanosome delivery system....To my knowledge, that isn't available anywhere else for any price..

It's a simple choice really.. Try it for a few dollar investment, or shell out a hundred or so for a name brand... Some people just feel like quality is reflected by the price.. I am not one of those people.

So in answer to your question, just keep the following percentages in mind, for Skincuticals C, E, Ferulic..

15% L-Ascorbic Acid
0.5% Ferulic Acid
1% Pure Vitamin E (which means Alpha + D Alpha together)

Other ingredients are; glycerin, hyaluronic acid, B-5, solvent + water.

ETA: If you try a DIY version, be sure the PH is under 3.5, or it won't penetrate sufficiently...If not, you've wasted your time! The recipe I posted checked out at 3.3 PH

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:55 am      Reply with quote
Wow "Doc" you are so knowledgeable. Thanks again for sharing your expertise

Any chance you could go into your lab and invent a DIY for the rosacea suffers on this forum??
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 8:45 am      Reply with quote
Kassy I feel like I should be sending you a cheque for all the great advice you provide all of us! Very Happy I like you think if you can make this stuff yourself why pay thousands a year; along with the added benefit of knowing exactly what is in your products.

I will hand your % recipe to my engineer buddies (math is not my strong suit) and have them figure out the tsp/tbsp amounts for me as I was planning on using Sea Kelp Bioferment from Skinactives as my base.

Thank you again for sharing all of your knowledge.

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Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:05 pm      Reply with quote
You guys have me laughing my head off... Laughing

Just please keep in mind that I'm not a professional formulator, and this is just a hobby that I truly love, born out of my desire to have the best most potent worker bee ingredients, at the cheapest price possible. (It really is a kick coming up with recipe's, especially when they turn out well for people.)

All I ask, is that if any of you make these recipe's, that you share your honest feelings about them.. If you tell me what's good or bad, it will help me to improve the next one.. (Many of you are doing this in PM's, but that doesn't help or benefit the other members, who share the same skincare concerns...Please share!)

stovetop; Let me do some research on rosacea, and I'll see if I can come up with something.

Alley; I love SKB! Do you have the little vial of ferulic acid from them as well? And what about vitamin E? I'll wait for your reply, and give you a recipe to use..

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:55 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy I am patiently awaiting my ferulic acid from bulkactives.com (I am really trying to remember why I didn't order from Skinactives). I have the Vitamin E from Personal Forumlator and the ascorbic acid from skinactives. My goal is a simple stable C+E+Ferulic serum that I can mix up every couple of days or once a week.

If I don't see the ferulic acid by the end of the week I might just place another skinactives order.

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Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:01 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
Kassy I am patiently awaiting my ferulic acid from bulkactives.com (I am really trying to remember why I didn't order from Skinactives). I have the Vitamin E from Personal Forumlator and the ascorbic acid from skinactives. My goal is a simple stable C+E+Ferulic serum that I can mix up every couple of days or once a week.

If I don't see the ferulic acid by the end of the week I might just place another skinactives order.


I'm sure you'll get it soon!

Okay, I've worked out a simple recipe, for a 1oz 15%, C, E + Ferulic... You can relax and make 1 oz, which will probably last you 8 weeks or so.. It is very stable, and will remain so until it's used up, so no need to worry. (The vit E, SKB + FA all make it very stable!)

What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)

What to do;

- In first shot glass, put 1 tsp C into the 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water. Put on the side, stirring occasionally till FULLY dissolved (This can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour, so have patience.)

- In 2nd shot glass put in 1/2 tsp vodka, and sprinkle the FA in and mix. (Little formulator spatulas are great for this!) When it has dissolved fully, add in the vitamin E + SKB and stir it all up well.

- When the LAA has fully dissolved in the 1st shot glass, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir very well, and carefully pour into your 1oz bottle.

Keeping it in a cool dry, dark place, or fridge will keep it potent + stable!

Hope you like it!
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:18 pm      Reply with quote
OMG that is the exactly the type of recipe I was looking for Thank you

As soon as I make my first batch I will let you know - I am soooo excited!!!

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Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:39 pm      Reply with quote
stovetop wrote:
Wow "Doc" you are so knowledgeable. Thanks again for sharing your expertise

Any chance you could go into your lab and invent a DIY for the rosacea suffers on this forum??


I'm working on it stovetop! In the mean-time, check out this Rosacea site.. It has wonderful information;

http://www.skincarephysicians.com/rosaceanet/minimizeflareups.html

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Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:41 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
OMG that is the exactly the type of recipe I was looking for Thank you

As soon as I make my first batch I will let you know - I am soooo excited!!!



Laughing Laughing Laughing

I hope you love it! But if not, please share why, so I can tweak it for ya....

The more all you guys share with me, the better I can come up with even better recipe's.

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:52 pm      Reply with quote
Oh wow. Kassy, you're my major DIY inspiration. I've told a few people recently I want to get into making and selling my own cosmetics. I'll have to pay attention and learn from the master Very Happy
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Tue Dec 09, 2008 5:30 pm      Reply with quote
Fox wrote:
Oh wow. Kassy, you're my major DIY inspiration. I've told a few people recently I want to get into making and selling my own cosmetics. I'll have to pay attention and learn from the master Very Happy



Lawdy! I'm hardly the master, but thanks for the vote of confidence..

I just love doing this as a hobby, sharing recipe's with all, and making gifts for family and friends....So far, so good!

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
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Wed Dec 10, 2008 8:49 am      Reply with quote
Kassy I am currently filling 2 carts (Personal formulator and Garden of Wisdom) with the ingredients for your eye cream. The one thing I can't seem to find is the seaweed extract where do you get yours.
I haven't looked at Skinactives because their website seems to be down.

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Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:02 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
The one thing I can't seem to find is the seaweed extract where do you get yours.


Seaweed Extract: Seaweed is high in vitamins A, C and E (to name a few) which are potent anti-oxidants (which help reduce the appearance of wrinkles). This extract does have the distinctive smell of seaweed. Suggested usage rates: 3 - 5% in liquid soap, hair products, cremes, melt and pour and CP soap.

This site has every extract and oil under the sun, and the prices are great IMHO;

http://www.brambleberry.com/extracts.html

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Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:07 pm      Reply with quote
Thank you again Kassy. Here is a question for you do you think adding the EGF (growth factor) to your eye serum would be okay? I don't see anything in your recipe that would neutralize it do you?
I have had the most success with Skinmedica Eye Illuminating cream. I tried Skinactive Bright-I cream for about 8 months but have decided to go back to Skinmedica. I would prefer to make my own if I could.

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Wed Dec 10, 2008 6:39 pm      Reply with quote
Alley wrote:
Thank you again Kassy. Here is a question for you do you think adding the EGF (growth factor) to your eye serum would be okay? I don't see anything in your recipe that would neutralize it do you?



The only thing to keep in mind is the eye cream recipe I posted is for 1oz... The EGF from skinactives.com is in a 'one' time use vial, and is recommended for a 4oz formulation, and is too much for 1oz.. But you could just adjust the recipe and make a 4oz cream..

Here's the recommendation for EGF from skinactives;

Usage

Each kit is enough for 4 fl oz of cream or lotion at approximately 0.00005% concentration (50 mcg in 120 mL cream). Use in your favorite cream or add to our Canvas Base Cream or a Sea Kelp Bioferment base.

Mix thoroughly, but gently. Vigorous mixing will decrease the activity level of the EGF.

EGF is kept highly concentrated to preserve its activity, therefor you will hardly see the EGF drop at the bottom of the small tube. Store the EGF in the refrigerator until you are ready to use it. When ready to use, add the contents of the second tube (saline solution) to the tube containing EGF and close. Mix by inverting and straightening the tube several times. The EGF is now ready for addition to your cream, lotion, or serum. Do not be tempted to use it more concentrated than recommended. A growth factor is similar to a hormone: very little (it is measured in micrograms, one millionth of a gram) will go a very long way.


Also Alley keep in mind you can improvise what I've posted, and tweak it to suit your needs.. That's what's great about DIY... You can take a basic recipe and then leave what you don't like out, and add other things that you like better.. I just continually try new things, and learn as I go along... I don't pretend to lead anyone to believe I have it to an exact science, because other than the C serum I don't.. I just am sharing recipe's that have worked out well for myself and others..

The C serums I post are the equivalent of baking, as in, measurements and formulation need to be precise....The other recipe's are much more liberal, and you can add or subtract as it suits you..

I'm also a big believer in "semi" homemade, and have added different actives to some ready made serums/creams that I consider to be of good quality.. (I especially recommend this for beginning DIY'ers, because you don't have to deal with "formulation phases", "emulsifiers" and "preservatives".. I'm all about getting the most bang for my buck, and love shortcuts!

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Thu Dec 11, 2008 1:12 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy thank you for the good and practical advice. I will take your eye serum as a starting point and figure out what I am actually trying to accomplish and what ingredient will give me that and mix away.
I just returned for a local surplus store where they have all shapes and sizes of glass beakers and jars. I am all set to try the C serum if the ferulic acid ever gets here. I will keep you posted.

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Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:32 pm      Reply with quote
I'm too lazy to go to the store and pick up some vitamin E capsules. Can I use Argan oil instead, maybe 1/4 tsp?

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Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:36 am      Reply with quote
Frodo wrote:
I'm too lazy to go to the store and pick up some vitamin E capsules. Can I use Argan oil instead, maybe 1/4 tsp?


I'm not familiar with 'argan oil', so can't help you there..

The reason E is recommended is that it's synergistic with C.. It also helps with stability.


ETA: Okay, I just did a google, and it looks like it will be compatible... It has a good amount of vitamin E in it, and other good things... As long as the color isn't yellow/amber, it should be fine..

Argan oil is exceptionally rich in natural tocopherols (vitamin E), rich in phenols and phenolic acid, rich in carotenes, rich in squalene, rich in essential fatty acids, 80% unsaturated fatty acids[3] and depending on extraction method more resistant to oxidation than olive oil.

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Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:39 am      Reply with quote
I use Argan Oil - it's supposed to be rich in Vitamin E so I suppose you could use it.
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Fri Dec 12, 2008 6:24 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A: Thanks for the link
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