Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
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free skin care · Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:04 am

Alley wrote:

Okay Kassy I just ordered a bunch of stuff to make your eye serum - I am going to tweek it a bit. Let me know if you see anything counter productive. My plan is to follow your eye serum base which is equal parts of SKB, glycerin + any base or eye cream you like.

Dang it I just realized it didn't order the glycerin.....

DMAE (Just keep this at 3%)
wheat protein
argerilene
Eyeliss instead of seaweed extract
cucumber extract
green tea extract
vitamin e oil - instead of avocado oil or I could use emu oil also - comments ????
Pepha - tight instead of mushroom extract

I don't really like vitamin E for the eye if I can avoid it, it's too heavy and occlusive.. Avocado Oil + Emu are better choices, as they will not only penetrate easily, but they will also penetrate deeper, bringing the actives with them!

Although I love and use SKB, lately I am trying to keep it to a minimum, because it does tend to leave a film if you use too much.. Because the eye tissue is so thin and delicate, you want to use things that are light, and will have the best chance to fully absorb..

Tweaking things is great! And if you come up with something great, please share it with us all...

ETA: You can get glycerin in any drugstore for a few bucks!

free skin care · Fri Dec 19, 2008 12:18 pm

That is why I need your advice, I can see how the vit e would be heavy so Emu it is.
Good advice on the SKB I will limit this also. I will post the recipe when I get everything and let you know how it went.

ps Love the your C serum Very Happy

free skin care · Fri Dec 19, 2008 10:40 pm

Thanks Alley, I'm glad to help... And I very much appreciate you sharing your opinion on my recipe's.

free skin care · Wed Jan 07, 2009 7:30 pm

Okay I am totally lost here.... I was about to start the eye serum and I have no idea how much SKB, glycerin and base. I know you said equal parts but how much of each should I start with.

My other question is my C serum seems to have thinned out but not oxidized. Should I add some additional skb.

One more thing I am having a Jessner peel tomorrow and would like to create a "healing" serum for the next week. I was thinking SKB, emu oil, cucumber extract???? I need your expert advice please.

free skin care · Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:17 pm

Alley wrote:

Okay I am totally lost here.... I was about to start the eye serum and I have no idea how much SKB, glycerin and base. I know you said equal parts but how much of each should I start with.

My other question is my C serum seems to have thinned out but not oxidized. Should I add some additional skb.

One more thing I am having a Jessner peel tomorrow and would like to create a "healing" serum for the next week. I was thinking SKB, emu oil, cucumber extract???? I need your expert advice please.

Eye Serum

1 CC of each active will give you a nice potent 1oz eye serum.

DMAE (Just keep this at 3%)
wheat protein
argerilene
seaweed extract
cucumber extract
green tea extract
avocado oil
mushroom extract

The base is equal parts of SKB, glycerin + any base or eye cream you like. I used a juice beauty serum. (1/3rd of each for the base)

So to figure out a 1oz serum/lotion here's how;

1oz equals 30 CC's ... So the actives will equal just about 7 CC's + the powdered DMAE (3 to 5%), that leaves 23 CC's remaining for your base.. That is approximately 4 tsp of base cream of your choice.. If you have any Juice Beauty products on hand, that makes a great base along with a little SKB and glycerin..(for ex; 2 tsp of JB, 1 tsp glycerin, 1 tsp SKB)

Don't worry about exacts because you will take all the fun out of it for you..(The only exact you need to know is for the DMAE to keep it from going over 5%)

Now to the C serum; Don't forget to shake it before use, as you should with any serum... It should be thin! No need to add anything.

Healing Ingredients;

Here is where I will try to talk you into my beloved oils... They are pure, healing, and loaded with everything beneficial for the skin.. All of the following are great, and would be wonderful mixed up with pure Aloe and Shea Butter;

Virgin Palm Oil
Squalane Oil
Virgin Coconut Oil
Cold Pressed Avocado Oil

I buy my palm and coconut oil here;

http://www.tropicaltraditions.com/red_palm_oil.htm?gclid=CLPqzZbp85cCFRJxxwodDlNhDw

Hope that helps, and please post again if something isn't clear..

free skin care · Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:52 pm

Thank you thank you thank you. I am telling you this DIY stuff is intimidating Confused

I am preparing myself for the condescending lecture about "scientific" evidence from the cosmetician regarding the skinactives products I use, never mind my novice DIY serums. She already said she was blocking out time for "consultation" to go over all of my products. Rolling Eyes

free skin care · Wed Jan 07, 2009 9:06 pm

Alley wrote:

Thank you thank you thank you. I am telling you this DIY stuff is intimidating Confused

I am preparing myself for the condescending lecture about "scientific" evidence from the cosmetician regarding the skinactives products I use, never mind my novice DIY serums. She already said she was blocking out time for "consultation" to go over all of my products. Rolling Eyes

Just keep in mind half her living comes from what she sells... Trust me, she will poo poo just about anything you tell her you use .. Rolling Eyes

If you want to cut her off at the pass, just be sure you know what products she 'sells', and tell her that's what you already use, and you get it for cheap on Ebay... Laughing

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:30 am

LOL I actually started using SkinMedica from the advice of this spa. I should give her a big thank you because it was in my effort to find an affordable source of SkinMedica (that stuff is not cheap!) that I stumbled onto EDS and the forum. So they inadvertently directed me here and away from their products. Not that I would ever pay spa prices for anything Very Happy

I was thinking I might print out the ingredient lists of the Skinactives I use to show the actives and that it isn't snake oil but then again I might just be opening a can of worms I really don't want to.

I am trying going to try the eye serum tonight so I will let you know how it goes. I gave my C serum a good shake this morning and I know it still working due to that wonderful tingle and the glow in my skin!

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:24 am

Glad the "C" is working out for you... I haven't had any complaints, so I guess the recipe is good as is.

Don't worry about what to say at the 'Spa'... Just have a good listen, and only speak when you're spoken to ... Laughing

If they really badger you, just tell them the additional actives you are using. Also, I think EDS sells Skin Medica, so you can tell them you get a discount buying it here..

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:12 pm

Hi Kassy. A question for ya.
I made up your C,E and Ferulic about a week ago. I'm wondering if this is Ok or whether I didn't mix the l ascorbic acid enough. It looked clear to me though when I mixed it, seemed to dissolve straight away actually.
But the end product has a clear look with milky looking speckles through it. Have I done something wrong? I'm using it anyway, especially as I've just done a roll.

One other thing Kassy. I'm considering making my own anti wrinkle cream with matrixal in it. I'm using John's one at the moment, do you think there's something you could *prescribe* for me that's like his? I like that one alot, but why not try a DIY.

Thanks so much Kassy, you're an absolute gem helping us all DIY. Very Happy

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 8:02 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

Just keep in mind half her living comes from what she sells... Trust me, she will poo poo just about anything you tell her you use .. Rolling Eyes

If you want to cut her off at the pass, just be sure you know what products she 'sells', and tell her that's what you already use, and you get it for cheap on Ebay... Laughing

good one

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:10 pm

Mishey wrote:

Hi Kassy. A question for ya.
I made up your C,E and Ferulic about a week ago. I'm wondering if this is Ok or whether I didn't mix the l ascorbic acid enough. It looked clear to me though when I mixed it, seemed to dissolve straight away actually.
But the end product has a clear look with milky looking speckles through it. Have I done something wrong? I'm using it anyway, especially as I've just done a roll.

One other thing Kassy. I'm considering making my own anti wrinkle cream with matrixal in it. I'm using John's one at the moment, do you think there's something you could *prescribe* for me that's like his? I like that one alot, but why not try a DIY.

Thanks so much Kassy, you're an absolute gem helping us all DIY. Very Happy

My guess is the "milky looking speckles" are the ferulic acid... Did you mix it into the alcohol to dissolve, before adding it to the rest of the serum, as per instructions? FA is a PITA to incorporate into anything, because it is only very slightly soluble in water.. Hence my suggestion of 'vodka' .. Laughing

As for 'wrinkle cream', since John's is already so reasonable, and you like it, why not just juice that up with additional actives?

If you want to start from scratch just give me the list of ingredients and I'll work out a recipe for you... The easy way though, is to use that as a base, so you don't have to deal with preservatives and emulifiers.. Wink

free skin care · Thu Jan 08, 2009 11:57 pm

Kassy_A wrote:

Mishey wrote:

Hi Kassy. A question for ya.
I made up your C,E and Ferulic about a week ago. I'm wondering if this is Ok or whether I didn't mix the l ascorbic acid enough. It looked clear to me though when I mixed it, seemed to dissolve straight away actually.
But the end product has a clear look with milky looking speckles through it. Have I done something wrong? I'm using it anyway, especially as I've just done a roll.

One other thing Kassy. I'm considering making my own anti wrinkle cream with matrixal in it. I'm using John's one at the moment, do you think there's something you could *prescribe* for me that's like his? I like that one alot, but why not try a DIY.

Thanks so much Kassy, you're an absolute gem helping us all DIY. Very Happy

My guess is the "milky looking speckles" are the ferulic acid... Did you mix it into the alcohol to dissolve, before adding it to the rest of the serum, as per instructions? FA is a PITA to incorporate into anything, because it is only very slightly soluble in water.. Hence my suggestion of 'vodka' .. Laughing

As for 'wrinkle cream', since John's is already so reasonable, and you like it, why not just juice that up with additional actives?

If you want to start from scratch just give me the list of ingredients and I'll work out a recipe for you... The easy way though, is to use that as a base, so you don't have to deal with preservatives and emulifiers.. Wink

Hi Kassy.
Yes I did add the ferulic to vodka. Maybe not mixed enough then. I'll be sure to give it massive mix next time. It's still Ok to use?

Well I do like John's cream but it's only about 1oz and I like to use anything I use on my face on my neck, chest and arms also. And then there's our $ here in Oz is only 70c in your $, and the high international shipping. So I would like to try a DIY version if possible.
Here's the ingredient list:
Water, Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicetyl Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Phosphate 20, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dimethicone, Steareth-10, PEG-150 Hydogenated Jojoba, Sorbitan Stearate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Benzoate.

Geez what a mouthful! Do you know what that concoction might be? Laughing

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 7:23 am

Kassy my c serum is completely white in colour - did I over do it with the ferulic acid?

The peel went great she wasn't pushy about the skinactives or my DIY. She was more concerned about having me stop using Obagi Nu-Derm because I don't need it for pigmentation so why go thru the misery. Embarassed

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:23 pm

Mishey wrote:

[Hi Kassy.
Yes I did add the ferulic to vodka. Maybe not mixed enough then. I'll be sure to give it massive mix next time. It's still Ok to use?

So I would like to try a DIY version if possible.
Here's the ingredient list:
Water, Jojoba Esters, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dicetyl Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Phosphate 20, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Dimethicone, Steareth-10, PEG-150 Hydogenated Jojoba, Sorbitan Stearate, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Sodium Benzoate.

Don't worry about the C serum, it's fine! White to clearer colored is what I was aiming for.. As for the FA, next time be sure to only use a pinch.. (It an awfully gritty, hard to fully dissolve product, but worth the headaches.)

On to the wrinkle cream.. I feel you can do better than that, and have a DIY cream without quite so many chemicals ..(IMHO of course). (The primary reasons I got into DIY was to avoid as many chemicals as possible, and enjoy in abundance, the good things for our skin.)

Here is a link to a wonderful ready made lotion that I highly recommend either on it's own, or as a wonderful base for DIY'ers.. The best of "Jojoba" is already in it as well; (You can easily add the actives of your choice to it!)

http://www.tropicaltraditions.com/organic_moisturizing_lotions.htm

You will see several varieties, with only slight differences... Personally, I use the unscented for DIY..

If you want a thicker 'cream' as your base, they have 'creams' as well.. I prefer thinner formulations.. But you can certainly thicken the lotion up to the consistency of cream with the addition of Carbomer, Hyaluronic Acid or Cetyl [Cetearyl] Alcohol..(There are more, but these are the skin friendly ones.)

Here is a Matrixyl 3000 (Palmitoyl Peptide Complex) solution that you can add to any 'base' of your choice, and it's wonderful in the lotion I recommended above. Recommended usage is 10% in your final formulation; (I have been using this in formulations for 1 year, and highly recommend it for wrinkles.)

This product will cost you $24.00 for 25 CC's, which used at 10% will be enough for 10oz of products!

http://cellbone.com/Matrixyl_Solution.htm

Have a look at all of this, and let me know what you decide..

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 12:48 pm

how much is a pinch - like a pinch bet'n your finger and thumb? I am sorry I know I am killing you Laughing

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 1:04 pm

Alley wrote:

how much is a pinch - like a pinch bet'n your finger and thumb? I am sorry I know I am killing you Laughing

LMAO!!

Yes, just grab a bit between forefinger and thumb.. If you are mathematically inclined (unlike me), just figure out what .5% would be to your total formulation.. (for EX: 1oz liquid is equeal to 30 cc/ml's, so .5% of that is equal to 1/2 cc/ml.)

Your on your own with figuring out the powder though.. A pinch has worked fine for me ... Laughing

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 1:40 pm

A pinch it is - I am Malibu Stacey when it comes to math Brick wall

free skin care · Fri Jan 09, 2009 5:18 pm

Brilliant!
So for $38.50 I can make around 9oz of cream, instead of 1oz for $15. Yay!
Thank you so much. I just need to wait till the matrixyl comes back in stock, or find another distributor. Very Happy

free skin care · Sat Jan 10, 2009 12:02 am

Mishey wrote:

Brilliant!
So for $38.50 I can make around 9oz of cream, instead of 1oz for $15. Yay!
Thank you so much. I just need to wait till the matrixyl comes back in stock, or find another distributor. Very Happy

By golly you've got it! More than a years supply, made fresh as needed, without all the foo-foo filler ingredients that are in most retail products...Gotta love this DIY stuff, dontcha..

Wait for the Cellbone product, it's the very best!

From now on, before I post a recipe, I'm going to stock up ... Laughing

Same thing happened with the Viterol A, which is finally back in stock after a month ... Shock

Or perhaps it's just a coincidence... Naaaah! Too many PM's today for that to be the case... Laughing

free skin care · Sun Jan 11, 2009 8:39 pm

Kassy do you think I could add niacinide and glucosamine to the jojoba and matrixal 300 mix?

free skin care · Sun Jan 11, 2009 9:09 pm

Mishey wrote:

Kassy do you think I could add niacinide and glucosamine to the jojoba and matrixal 300 mix?

Yes, they are all compatible..

Keep the glucosamine at a max of 2%

Keep the niacinamide at a max of .5%

Mon Jan 12, 2009 4:15 am

Kassy_A wrote:

So here it is all together;

Recipe for 15% 1oz Vitamin C serum; (Do not be tempted to increase the %, it isn't necessary!)

- 1 tsp Ascorbic Acid powder or crystals
- 3 tsp Distilled water
- 2 tsp Viterol A (If you only use this for formulating, you'll have enough to make a years worth of serums!)
- 2 Vitamin E capsules (you'll pierce it, and squeeze the contents into the Viterol A)

I'd like to make this serum, but have a slight concern. I have some l-ascorbic acid powder, will that work? Science is not my thing so I'm not sure if ascorbic acid and l ascorbic acid are the same thing or not...

free skin care · Mon Jan 12, 2009 7:45 am

jud I used the l-ascorbic acid hope that helps.

Kassy created the eye serum on Saturday and I love it. I made some modifications, crossed my fingers and hoped I didn't create a toxic substance! The texture is awesome, light and easily absorbed. Here is the recipe I used - please let me know if my tweaking may have caused some issues.

VERSION A – Jan 1/09

1 cc wheat protein
1 cc Argerilene & Matrixyl 3000 (need to add more next time)
1 cc Eyeliss
1 cc cucumber extract
1 cc green tea extract
1 cc emu oil
10 drops Pepha tight - (probably not enough)

1 tsp SKB
1 tsp glycerin
2 tsp Oil of Olay original (I know but I love the smell)

free skin care · Mon Jan 12, 2009 12:23 pm

Looks awesome to me Alley, and adding "Olay" is great! They have some wonderful creams/serums... Look for the ones that contain 'niacinamide', which are lovely!

Enjoy your potion... Very Happy

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