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Please help with formulations: butters; carrier oils; e.o.
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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erna
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Tue Dec 14, 2010 11:30 pm      Reply with quote
Please help with formulations: Butters; Carrier Oils; Essential Oils.
I have read tones of articles and threads...but everything seems a big mess to me. When I received amazing products and wanted to start doing some DIY creams, I got confused. I know there are many of you who knows wonderful recepies...
I want to make face creamand eye cream (for day and night)using these products:
BUTTERS: shea; mango; avocado; cocoa.
CARRIER OILS: pomegranate; apricot kernel; coconut; evening primrose.
ESSENTIAL OILS: patchouli; lavender; tea tree; fennel.
Also, using these products I would like to make hair mask, body butter, anti cellulite cream...Can anyone help me with formulations? I do not understand when it is explained in %... The best for me is when it is explained oz, gr, spoons: Some of carrier oils cannot be used more than 20% in creams.. That makes it difficult for me to decide proportions.
Rolling Eyes
DarkMoon
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:13 am      Reply with quote
erna,

With just butters, oils and EO's you can make scented or treatment butters and that's fine, but to make a cream you have to emulsify water and oils (oils and butters) together.

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erna
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 8:57 am      Reply with quote
Oh... even if I put more carrier oil? For creamier concistency?
erna
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Wed Dec 15, 2010 12:16 pm      Reply with quote
What if I will use these:
1,5 TBS shea butter
1 TBS avocado butter

0,5 TBS pomegranate oil
0,5 TBS apricote oil
0,5 TBS evening primrose oil
1 TBS cocnut oil

2 drops patchouli eo
1 drop lavender eo
1 drop fennel eo
2 drops tee trea eo
1,5 TSP Vit E

What do you think?
NotMeNotYou
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Mon Dec 20, 2010 4:48 pm      Reply with quote
Your formulation will make something with a lip balm consistency which will be too heavy and greasy for face and eyes. To make a proper cream you need something called an e-wax (emulsifying wax). This will allow you to add water to the mix and it will all combine to make a cream.

Creams are commercially made with at least 60% water, about 5% wax\butter and around 10% oil. That's why they soak in quickly and aren't greasy.

I know you said you don't understand % so here's an easy way to work it out. If you think of your cream as being made with 10 TBS in total, then you will use about 0.5 TBS of wax\butters (that's 5%) and around 1 TBS of oil (that's 10%) and the rest will be water, 8.5 TBS (85%). That will make a very light lotion type cream.

I make a face cream with these proportions, it's a nice rich cream that soaks in quickly without any greasiness.

Total amount 10 TBS

6 TBS of water. (60% water)
3 TBS Apricot kernel oil (30% light oil)
0.75 TBS of combined heavy oils (7.5% heavy oils)
0.25 TBS of e-wax (2.5% wax)

There is another aspect to formulating which is helpful to know. The relative heaviness of your ingredients. Butters are like wax in creams they add thickness and also greasiness and must be used in low amounts unless you want a balm. Light oils like apricot kernel oil will soak in quickly and should make up the majority of your oil content. Heavier oils like avocado, pomegranate and oils that are thick need to be used in low amounts (less than 10%) otherwise your cream will leave a greasy residue on the skin. Coconut oil behaves more like a butter than an oil in creams.

In your formulation you are using 70% butters, 20% heavy oils and 10% light oil which will create a very heavy balm. Suitable for hands, feet and lips but not eyes or face.

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40, fine porcelain skin, tendency to pigmentation no other issues. Rosehip oil is the cornerstone of my skin care.
erna
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Tue Dec 21, 2010 4:49 pm      Reply with quote
Ooops... I have already made it. With no water. Yes it is oily and greasy. But when I put my "cream" at night, I do not bother about my oily face Rolling Eyes In the mornign, I simpy put on some cream, wait for about 10 min and later I remove any visible oils with tissue Smile
I thought if I put water then I will need to add some preservatives (which I hate to use).
Thank you for your answer, I will try to use less heavy oils next time.
Now I am also looking for any hints how to make shampoo with apple cider vinegar; aloe vera; glycerin; wheat germ oil. Sadly I don't have castil soap... Is it possible to use water instead?
DarkMoon
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Tue Dec 21, 2010 5:13 pm      Reply with quote
Have you read through the recipe index? Smile

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

A google search for DIY recipes for shampoo

http://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+recipes+for+shampoo&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari

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erna
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Wed Dec 22, 2010 10:23 am      Reply with quote
Yes, I have read that thread. I have made some oils, hair mask for my hair and some other good things.
Also I was googling for the shampoo recepie..but I did not find the one that has the ingriedients I want too use.
Yesterday I made some oils mix (coconut, castor, avocado, pomegranate, jojoba, evening primrose, aloe vera + some EO's) for my hair. I read some girls use it as a leave in conditioner. Well, my hair is oily Very Happy So next time I will use it just before washing my hair. I was just wondering if I can use coconut oil as a leave in... would it leave my hair oily?
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