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Sat Jun 09, 2012 4:04 pm  |
As remarked in other topics, every form of vitamin C has its own merits.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is easy to come by, but for DIY there are a few things to keep in mind to make a workable product. It can dissolve in oil, but it takes a bit of heat and some emulsifier to get there. If it isn't dissolved it won't do much on your skin.
This is how, after a lot of trial and error, I do it.
18 grams of oil (I use a combination of rosehip and avocado)
2 grams of hydrolized lecithin (guess ordinary lecithin would work as well)
2 grams of vit. E oil
3 grams of ascorbyl palmitate (very fluffy powder)
Combine the oils, lecithin and powder and gently heat it in a double boiler while stirring, to dissolve the powder.
When dissolved, remove from heat. Add 2 grams of retinyl palmitate liquid and stir in.
Pour into a jar (not a bottle). When cooled, the ascorbyl palmitate will cause it to become a gel. So don't use a bottle with a narrow neck, the gell will become quite solid!
Add too much powder and the mixture will stay gritty (and the gritty powder will not do anything on your skin). 10 percent is about the max I could manage to dissolve.
Of course this recipe is easy to adapt. More vit. A, or add some Q10, or an essential oil or two. But this is the basic version. |
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Sat Jun 09, 2012 6:18 pm |
| Great recipe. Do you use this when dermarolling? It sounds like it could work well for that. |
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Sat Jun 09, 2012 7:23 pm |
Thanks for posting this.  What is this like to apply please, the recipe reads like an ointment not a gel? |
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Sensitivity, forehead pigmentation & elevens, nose & chin clogged pores. Topicals: Aloe vera, squalane, lactic acid, Myfawnie KinNiaNag HG: Weleda calendula, Lanolips, Guinot masque essentiel, Flexitol Naturals, Careprost. Gadgets: Vaughter dermarollers, Lightstim. |
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Sun Jun 10, 2012 12:41 am |
I use this after dermarolling, I like it because there is no preservative or irritating chemical in it, only the things I want in there.
Firefox, when cooled down this becomes a gel. When you heat it, it liquifies again. That's because of the palmitate. So what you have is a gel that spreads very easily because it melts on your skin and feels like an oil.
The colour isn't very attractive - the avocado oil and the lecithin give it a green-yellow colour. |
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Sun Jun 10, 2012 2:24 am |
| Lotusesther wrote: |
Firefox, when cooled down this becomes a gel. When you heat it, it liquifies again. That's because of the palmitate. So what you have is a gel that spreads very easily because it melts on your skin and feels like an oil.
The colour isn't very attractive - the avocado oil and the lecithin give it a green-yellow colour. |
Thanks for your reply. Funny colours I can deal with - there is red palm oil in my refrigerator!  Sounds like an ointment with a relatively low melting point. Gels generally have a high water content and you haven't used any? I thought you might have missed out some ingredients. |
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Sensitivity, forehead pigmentation & elevens, nose & chin clogged pores. Topicals: Aloe vera, squalane, lactic acid, Myfawnie KinNiaNag HG: Weleda calendula, Lanolips, Guinot masque essentiel, Flexitol Naturals, Careprost. Gadgets: Vaughter dermarollers, Lightstim. |
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Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:09 am |
| Thank you for recipe Lotusesther! You said "ascorbyl palmitate" in the ingredients list, and then you also used "retinyl palmitate" in the directions. Did you use both or was it just a typo and you only used one of them? |
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Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:16 am |
| Both, it's a vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) and C (ascorbyl palmitate) gel. Or ointment. Jelly. |
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Sun Jun 10, 2012 3:24 am |
| Lotusesther wrote: |
| Both, it's a vitamin A (retinyl palmitate) and C (ascorbyl palmitate) gel. Or ointment. Jelly. |
Oh right, as per the title. Sorry! I multi-task too much and miss things. I was confused because the retinyl palmitate wasn't listed as one of the ingredients.
A gel/ointment/jelly sounds nice and particularly soothing! |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 3:58 am |
| Lotusesther, where do you purchase your retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl palmitate and vitamin e? |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 4:59 am |
LE,
Is there a reason you don't use the oil based retinyl palmitate?
BFG |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:13 am |
But I do use oil based retinyl palmitate!
Ascorbyl palmitate you can buy at any vitamin store. Retinyl palmitate I bought from a local shop.
Mind you, ascorbyl palmitate is not considered the most effective c-derivative even though Perricone has used it extensively in the past (lots of patents) and Jan Marini's C-Esta line is based on it. But it's very gentle on the skin and helps to fade age spots. |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:25 am |
Thank you Lotusesther. What about your vitamin e?
I can't find any retinyl palmitate darnit.  |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 5:31 am |
That's odd. As far as I know most DIY suppliers carry it.
You could substitute it with retinyl acetate.
Vitamin E is a staple in DIY skin care, you can find that one everywhere. |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:16 am |
| Lotusesther wrote: |
That's odd. As far as I know most DIY suppliers carry it.
You could substitute it with retinyl acetate.
Vitamin E is a staple in DIY skin care, you can find that one everywhere. |
Thanks Lotusesther. I can't decide which form of vitamin e to go with.
I was wanting to use retinyl palmitate because I think you told me you can use it without getting broken caps from it! I'm not sure if retinyl acetate is safe for broken caps. |
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Fri Jun 15, 2012 6:49 am |
| I don't get broken caps from it (as I did from retinol) but everyone is different, so this doesn't have to mean that your skin will like it. |
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Sun Aug 05, 2012 1:13 pm |
 Today I made a new batch and thought to speed things up a bit in dissolving the c-palmitate I'd use my lovely battery operated mini whisk.
So now I have 2 jars, instead of 1, of not jelly/gel, but mousse!
I'll use it up but I don't think it's a very good idea to use a whisk, all that air won't help with shelf life.
It looks very cool though |
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Sun Aug 05, 2012 2:32 pm |
| Lotusesther wrote: |
Today I made a new batch and thought to speed things up a bit in dissolving the c-palmitate I'd use my lovely battery operated mini whisk.
So now I have 2 jars, instead of 1, of not jelly/gel, but mousse!
I'll use it up but I don't think it's a very good idea to use a whisk, all that air won't help with shelf life.
It looks very cool though |
Hi Lotusesther, It looks like you have been using the original recipe about 2 months. May I ask what kind of results you have seen and do you only use this after dermarolling? Thanks. |
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Everything has beauty but not everyone sees it |
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Sun Aug 05, 2012 4:34 pm |
| Hi CookieD, I can't truly tell what is doing what in my skincare. I use this as a night serum and after rolling. |
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Floralouise
New Member
 
Joined: 30 Mar 2015
Posts: 3
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Mon Mar 30, 2015 9:41 am |
| I am new to the dyi world. I want to incorporate this wonderful product in my cream and found this nice thread! Problem: do I dissolve my VAP (Vitamin A Palmitate) in Vita E first, heat up the oil, lecithin, and C ester, Then add the two mixes together after cooling? I guess I need step by step. PS: I had always dissolved my CEster in Beeswax, but I did not have any and tried a small amount of Gray Goose Vodka; it turned out beautifully. |
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Flora |
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