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katjones111
New Member
 
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 1:19 am  |
Hi everyone.
I'm new here and relatively new to DIY skincare too. I've been trying to perfect a Vit C + E + Ferulic acid serum for a while. Every time I make it I get the pH wrong! I can't seem to get it below 5 or at the lowest 4. I know that it needs to be below 3.2 to be active. I've got a problem either with my method or my ingredients or proportions and I was hoping someone might be able to help me.
I don't know what I'm doing wrong as I follow the ingredient list (included below) to the letter and I'm very careful weighing out. I also mix everything thoroughly. One thing I may be doing incorrectly is warming the water slightly to dissolve the Vit C (or else it takes forever!). Might this be deactivating the Vit C and thereby raising the pH?
Can I add some citric acid powder to an already made up solution to bring down the pH and make it usable? I've tried adding extra LAA with no luck.
I've got two batches just sitting there and I don't want to waste them. I'm starting to get a little disheartened with my failed attempts so any help you can give will be very gratefully received!
Kat x
Ingredient % Weight/g
Distilled Water 72.5 20.55
L-Ascorbic Acid 15 4.25
Propylene Glycol 7 1.98
Sodium Lactate 2 0.57
Polysorbate 80 1 0.28
Tocopherol 1 0.28
Optiphen 1 0.28
Ferulic Acid 0.5 0.14 |
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:32 am |
Vitamin C is so unstable, heat, light and even air start the degrading process with it - so if you are using warm water then that is very likely going to be a culprit here and will definitely deactivate the Vit C.
| katjones111 wrote: |
| One thing I may be doing incorrectly is warming the water slightly to dissolve the Vit C (or else it takes forever!). Might this be deactivating the Vit C and thereby raising the pH? |
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katjones111
New Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:47 am |
| TheresaMary wrote: |
Vitamin C is so unstable, heat, light and even air start the degrading process with it - so if you are using warm water then that is very likely going to be a culprit here and will definitely deactivate the Vit C.
| katjones111 wrote: |
| One thing I may be doing incorrectly is warming the water slightly to dissolve the Vit C (or else it takes forever!). Might this be deactivating the Vit C and thereby raising the pH? |
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Wow! I thought there might be a small chance that was the reason but I'm still surprised that warm water did it. Can you recommend a way to dissolve the vit C more quickly without heating it up?
Surely if it's sitting out on the counter in the open air for ages waiting to dissolve this will deactivate too?
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katjones111
New Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 3:48 am |
PS Thank you for responding  |
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:27 am |
Yes sitting on a counter in open air will degrade it too. Its better to add the C to water and then seal the jar/container and shake until it dissolves. I know when I used to make Vit C serums, I would put distilled water into a small air tight jar I had, and then add the ascorbic acid and close the lid and literally shake it for a few minutes (it took about 3-4 minutes) and then would test the ph and keep it refrigerated and that did the trick for me, and it stayed the correct ph level. Trouble is that I used to make small batchese to ensure it didn’t degrade so I had enough for only 2-3 days (I used it about 2x a day).
It also depends on the quality of the ascorbic acid that you are using – as they are not all consistent or high quality – there are some cheaper versions out there that are unstable.
| katjones111 wrote: |
Wow! I thought there might be a small chance that was the reason but I'm still surprised that warm water did it. Can you recommend a way to dissolve the vit C more quickly without heating it up?
Surely if it's sitting out on the counter in the open air for ages waiting to dissolve this will deactivate too?
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 7:29 am |
| You may also want to increase the quantity of the water to dilute the ph levels too. However you will need to experiment as there are a lot of actives you are using. |
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:11 am |
May I ask where you purchased your Vit C.?
Some Vit. Cs are larger crystals and some are a fine powder. The measurements for DIY would be different based on the physical characteristics. |
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katjones111
New Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:26 pm |
| TheresaMary wrote: |
| You may also want to increase the quantity of the water to dilute the ph levels too. However you will need to experiment as there are a lot of actives you are using. |
Thanks TheresaMary...I'll give that a try. Going to make another batch today using cold water in a jar. If
If I add water to the batches I've already made, will that possibly raise the pH so that they are usable? |
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katjones111
New Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:28 pm |
| milbader wrote: |
May I ask where you purchased your Vit C.?
Some Vit. Cs are larger crystals and some are a fine powder. The measurements for DIY would be different based on the physical characteristics. |
Hi Milbader. I'm using Resurrection L-Ascorbic fine granular powder 99.93% purity. It's meant for cosmetic formulation. I'd really like something a bit finer but not sure if that would make the Vit C less stable in powder form. |
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Thu Sep 07, 2017 4:55 am |
Unless they have been kept in a dark room with no oxygen they are already likely to have started degrading and be unstable already so adding more water may actually not be such a bad thing. It may actually reduce the ph balance rather than raise it but yu will have to test to be sure. It really depends on the actives used and no two actives are the same – they all have different qualities and reactions with others.
| katjones111 wrote: |
| TheresaMary wrote: |
| You may also want to increase the quantity of the water to dilute the ph levels too. However you will need to experiment as there are a lot of actives you are using. |
Thanks TheresaMary...I'll give that a try. Going to make another batch today using cold water in a jar. If
If I add water to the batches I've already made, will that possibly raise the pH so that they are usable? |
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katjones111
New Member
Joined: 06 Sep 2017
Posts: 7
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Thu Sep 07, 2017 5:58 am |
[quote="TheresaMary"]Unless they have been kept in a dark room with no oxygen they are already likely to have started degrading and be unstable already so adding more water may actually not be such a bad thing. It may actually reduce the ph balance rather than raise it but yu will have to test to be sure. It really depends on the actives used and no two actives are the same – they all have different qualities and reactions with others. [quote="katjones111"]
Sorry TheresaMary! I actually meant to say 'lower the pH' as it's currently at 5 and I need it at less than 3.2. I'll try adding water...at this point I have nothing to lose! Thanks |
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Thu Sep 07, 2017 6:06 am |
Depends on the age of the batch you made. Even serums that have been left for 2-3 days can degrade very rapidly. Additional water should lower the ph but the ingredients will definitely have lost some potency and strength.
| katjones111 wrote: |
| Sorry TheresaMary! I actually meant to say 'lower the pH' as it's currently at 5 and I need it at less than 3.2. I'll try adding water...at this point I have nothing to lose! Thanks |
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Thu Sep 07, 2017 3:53 pm |
For extra solubility, add 5-8% Propylene glycol, 10% alcohol.
For extra stability, add Ferulic 1-2%
Honestly, It's not worth making it yourself. Buy and use
iS CLINICAL Super Serum Advance+
It contains unsurpassed advanced ingredients in an elegant formula that cannot be replicated at home.
Ingredients: Water/ Aqua/ Eau, Ascorbic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Urea, Glucose, Guanidine, Tripeptide-1, Arbutin, Polyporus Umbellatus (Mushroom) Extract, Calcium Pentothenate, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Zinc Sulfate, Glycerin, Phenoxyethano |
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