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What "Actives" build collagen? Do AHAs/Glycolics?
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Rjez
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Mon Jan 01, 2007 1:05 pm      Reply with quote
You could also check out the forums on skinactives website. I copied this yesterday:

Quote:
My understanding is that you basically need 3 things for your skin to re-build itself and become thicker:

First: You need to signal your skin to start the process and increase turnover (EGF and KGF are signals; Alpha Beta and/or Pumpkin Peel for exfoliation).

Second: You need to provide the energy and the building blocks for collagen production (peptides such as Dermagen, PP3, NAP; CoQ10 for mitochondrial energy, etc.).

Third: You need to give your skin the nutrition and lipids it needs to be healthy (ELS, MNS, Sea Kelp, Rosehip Oil, Anti-Ox Booster, etc.).




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nyonyakay
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Thu Feb 08, 2007 2:54 am      Reply with quote
Dr Hannah Sivak of Skin Actives has just posted a list of actives that can help with collagen. I thought it would be directly relevant for this thread"


"Actives that can help with collagen:
Ascorbic acid is necessary to synthesize collagen, because it is required to hydroxylate the amino acid proline after synthesis of the protein. Scurvy is a syndrome of vitamin C deficiency and is related to defective collagen synthesis.

Betulinic acid stimulates collagen synthesis and actively inhibits the enzyme elastase to prevent/correct the loss of elastic fibers responsible for skin suppleness.

Boswellia serrata promotes collagen synthesis and is also an elastase (protease) and hyaluronidase inhibitor, a life preserver for the dermal matrix.

L-carnosine: prevents cross-linking of collagen, one of the causes of wrinkles and loss of elasticity brought about by aging and exposure to UV (sunlight).

Centella asiatica stimulates scar maturation by increasing synthesis of type I collagen.

Copper peptide complex induced stimulation of collagen synthesis when added to a culture of human fibroblasts. Be careful with copper peptide: too much will decrease collagen!

Epidermal growth factor (EGF) increases protein synthesis (plus lots more!)

Green tea: shown to prevent collagen glycation in the vascular system, not in skin, but you never know....

N-acetyl glucosamine increases collagen synthesis

Horse chestnut's escin inhibits protease activity, including elastase.

Hyaluronic acid: make your skin collagen happy and provide a nice matrix for it.

Natural active peptides will supply your skin with amino acids that will be used in collagen synthesis.

Retinyl acetate and other retinoids increase synthesis of collagen

Sea kelp bioferment contains fucoidans, polysaccharides that have been shown to increase collagen synthesis.

Soy isoflavones: use to correct, even if only in part, the decrease in estrogens that leads to skin aging and decreased collagen synthesis.

Wild yam disogenins: use to correct, even if only in part, the decrease in estrogens that leads to skin aging and decreased collagen synthesis.


DO NOT use: quercetin, which inhibits fibroblast proliferation, collagen production, thus preventing scar formation."
godiwantapony
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Sun Feb 11, 2007 9:08 pm      Reply with quote
If you are post menopausal then try estrogen and progesterone creams, as these used in combination with Retin-a and L-ascorbic acid have been clinically shown to thicken collagen. The is even newer research which is indicating that DHEA used topically can additionally promote growth of collagen type 111.
Arielle
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Sun Feb 11, 2007 9:51 pm      Reply with quote
nyonyakay's post of Hannah's list is great. Thank you, nyonyakay. I'm glad that Hannah got around to producing the list.

That's quite an arsenal and, as we all know, some things work better for some than others.

We all know the L-Ascorbic Acid is necessary. So that's a given as is the SKB.

Hyaluronic Acid plus Natural Active Peptides equals matrixyl. So, if you're already using Candy's Matrixyl 3000, you've got that covered. If you're not using it, you should be. (I should check to see if there's a review already and, if not, write one.) Does that sound like I love, love, love it?

L-Carnosine has provided me with faster results than Centella Asiatica. But, that might not be true for someone else. I also take L-Carnosine capsules daily in addition to a complete Mega Amino Acid complex. (Again, you have to find what works best for you.)

Retinoids are necessary as part of a "weed 'n' feed" program. I adore PSF Retinol Nite Repair.

Soy Isoflavones and Wild Yam are best for those who are peri-menopausal, menopausal, or post. I use the soy iso. but I also use Progesterone twice a day. So, in any case, I have that covered.

Copper has it's place and I use super cop as you all know (if you've seen the weed 'n' feed post). You just need to be careful.

I tried the EFG but got off it, as well. I'm working on my skin but I do NOT want to have to wonder or worry about anything I'm using.

What was the point of all this? Oh, yeah, you don't need to grab the whole arsenal. Just figure out what works well together or what will "multi-task" and pare it down to what you, personally, actually need.

Ari

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