"Our Skin and Aging", a basic primer
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free skin care · Tue Nov 24, 2009 11:10 am

As a cosmetic consultant, I have been working with a cosmetic company in the Phoenix area to create a new cosmetics line. This new line is heavily focused on free radical scavenging and anti-oxidants through the use of Resveratrol and Super Fruits (Acai, Goji, Pomegranate, Cranberry and Grape Seed Oil). The products that I have formulated for them are in the prototype stage now, and should be launching in early 2010. They are now beginning to create a sales force, and they requested that I write a primer on "skin" for the sales team. The document which is very imformative, but not too technical has recently been finished. It is a compilation of articles, information, and symposium notes that I have studied and accumulated over the years. I thought it would be helpful to share it with the members here on EDS.

Our Skin

General Skin Information, The Process of Aging:
Human skin generally goes through a series of continuous life cycles that can change as we age. At a young age there are hardly any signs of aging, and therefore skin care should focus on preventative maintenance. At this point the skin will need hydration, UV-protection, and anti-oxidant protection in order to avoid premature aging.

Eventually, the skin’s turnover and metabolism begins to decrease causing loss of skin radiance and uneven skin tones. The beginnings of fine expression lines around the eyes and mouth will appear.

As the human age increases, pronounced lines and marked wrinkles will be noticed. This is a result of a decrease in the elastic matrix of the skin (Collagen and Elastin), and cells retain less water and lose their firmness. Focus on cosmetics that contain ingredients that boost collagen and elastin production are essential at this point.

As the biological age of the customer increases to old age, the skin age will also increase. Most changes already seen will be intensified, and the skin will be in need of profuse hydration. At this point, the use of anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories, and free radical scavengers can and will slow the skin aging process and help rebuild the skin. The skin aging process cannot be reversed, but it can be slowed and repaired to a desirable degree.

A Physiological View of Skin Aging:

A cross section of the human skin can be seen in the figure entitled “A Diagram of Human Skin”. It is important to remember that “cosmetic” products are only allowed to function on the very top layers of the skin. Therefore, cosmetic products should be designed to have a function on the top layer (stratum corneum), and the layers just beneath known as the epidermis. These layers are comprised of dead skin cells as well as live skin cells that have been newly formed and which slowly move to the surface.

In the diagram entitled “The Skin’s Sebum (lipid) composition, what is known as the ‘brick and mortar’ alignment of skin cells can plainly be seen. These skin cells begin life as newly created cells deep within the layers of the skin. These fresh new cells are vital, full of life, and fully developed in size and shape. As the skin ages, the new cells constantly move to the surface. As they move to the surface they gradually flatten out. Eventually they die and become the top layer of very flat skin cells. Note that the alignment of the skin cells is the reason why the skin is such a phenomenal natural protective barrier. It is nearly impossible for most things to penetrate the skin to any degree because of the alignment of skin cells surrounded by skin sebum. Our skin naturally remains moist and supple by creating “sebum” which forms the “mortar” between the “bricks” which are the individual skin cells. This sebum is very critical to skin health. The general composition of skin sebum is described in the diagram. It has recently been discovered that many creams and lotions can actually disrupt natural skin sebum and displace it. This is caused by using emollients and active ingredients that are not compatible with the components of natural skin sebum. So, it is recommended to use raw materials and emollients that have similar fatty acid and wax ester profiles as well as squalene and other minor components found in skin sebum. This will result in optimum and continuous moisturization of the skin.

Enemies of the Skin:
The skin is the protective barrier that all humans must have to survive in a harsh environment. The skin is a natural marvel that can protect humans against most foreign objects and other mechanisms of attack. It is well known that the skin is in a constant battle against the environment. UV radiation from the sun is both beneficial to human health (Vitamin D production) and harmful due to free radical damage and oxidation. Pollutants from the environment also create free radicals and pro-oxidants. The life style of each individual can also play a role in skin health and ultimately in skin aging. For instance, smoking cigarettes, a poor diet, and stress can negatively influence skin health. A simplified list of “enemies of the skin” is shown below;

The sun (UV radiation)
The environment (pollution causing free radicals and other pro-oxidants)
Lifestyle choices (smoking, diet, hydration, stress, etc.)
Lack of protection (no sunscreen, lack of external moisturization)
Faulty Cosmetic regimens (creams and lotions with cheap and incompatible to human sebum emollients, over exfoliation, extreme use of AHA, retinoids, and other chemical peels, extreme use of skin lighteners)

Grades of Aging:
Each individual customer will have attained a “skin age” based on their personal metabolism and life style. The Grades of Aging are classified from 0 (youthful) to 5 (severely aged) in a logical and progressive order. Each is described according to the aging condition of the skin, not the chronological age of the customer, and states the category of ingredients needed for influencing the skin to improve that particular classification. The grades are based on the Glogau Classification of Photoaging and Rubin classification of Aging with expansions that enable you to know the products that best suit the customer’s skin.

Grade 0
Youthful, supple skin; even skin tone; and great firmness and elasticity. The treatment principle for this skin is not repair; it is prevention of damage in order to keep it in the condition it is in for many years to come. Aggressive treatment is unnecessary, and over-the-top exfoliation of this skin grade can cause irritation and quite possibly quicken aging.

Home Care. Home care should include an enzyme cleanser for natural exfoliation, a moisturizing and antioxidant-rich sunscreen for protection in the morning, and an antioxidant-rich moisturizer for overnight. The home care treatment product for the eyes should contain antioxidants and be moisturizing in the evening. A gentle scrub one time per week will keep the keratin normalized and allow for the penetration of ingredients.

Grade 1
A hint of fine lines around eyes, only in movement areas; firm skin with good elasticity. This customer’s skin is still in great shape, but it is not as bright and supple as Grade 0 skin. The treatment principle is still prevention, but it is very important to keep the skin in its current condition. Only light exfoliation is needed, not aggressive treatments.

Home Care. Home care is the same as it is with Grade 0, but customers should use an antioxidant cleanser at night and a scrub one to two times weekly. The nighttime eye treatment should be upgraded to one containing anti-aging antioxidants and moisturizers.

Grade 2
Fine lines around the eyes, possibly in expression areas and on forehead; slight deepening of the nasolabial folds; minor loss of firmness and tone. Treatments must include repair to some degree, with more exfoliation stimulation and higher levels of moisturizers and maintenance.

Home Care. Home care should also be stepped up with the client using an antioxidant-laden cleanser in the morning and evening, as well as an exfoliating cleanser every two to three nights, such as a 15% glycolic or lactic cleanser, an exfoliation scrub with particles, or home care lotion. The moisturizer must be high in hyaluronic acid and should also include antioxidants. Eye area home care should be moisturizing, and rich in antioxidants and dermal-building peptides. Preventive products with ingredients such as free radical scavengers will help stave off aging.

Grade 3
Fine lines are fully developed; a hint of actual wrinkles in expression areas; definite deepening of nasolabial folds; hyperkeratotic areas possible; some loss of firmness and elasticity on the neck, lower face, eye area and forehead. This customer needs repair right from the start, as well as regular exfoliation. Home care should be a step up in percentages and assertiveness. The customer must be observed closely to determine the need for higher-grade treatments and home care because this grade defines whether a little or a lot of later aging will occur. It must be addressed now and reversed, if possible.

Home Care. Home care should be the same as Grade 2, with an antioxidant cleanser in the morning and an exfoliating cleanser every evening. Treatment products should contain higher-grade dermal-building ingredients, such as the peptides. Exfoliants are very important to this customer because the skin has slowed its sloughing rate and AHAs speed up the cell turnover rate. The home care program should contain AHAs or retinols for two to four weeks, according to the customers Fitszpatrick classification, before the higher level resurfacers. A lightening product is usually also important for this client, especially if there is a history of excessive sun exposure. DNA repair products are even more important and eye area home care should be even more moisturizing, building and, if hints of shadows or puffiness under the eyes exist, include the use of an ingredient to address those issues as well.

Grade 4
Developed wrinkles; deeper nasolabial folds and definite forehead lines; hyperkeratotic areas; loss of firmness and elasticity in neck, lower face, eye area and forehead. This customer needs repair and higher level exfoliation to get the skin to a lower grade of aging as soon as possible. With appropriate products, services and cooperation, you should be able to reduce the customer to a Grade 3 readily, and possibly even a high Grade 2.

Home Care. Home care should begin with a balancing program that is intensified with retinoids or AHA products in order to speed up exfoliation and dermal development. It is recommended the pre-peel or home care programs that contain AHAs or retinols for two to four weeks, according to the client’s Fitzpatrick classification, before higher level resurfacers and a TCA peel are administered. Of course, the moisturizer should be high in hyaluronic acid and other ingredients, as well as antioxidants and building ingredients. Peptides of appropriate percentages can be used for maximum results, and products containing DNA repair ingredients remain important. Free radical scavengers is a key ingredient for this grade, also. Usually, a lightening product is important for this client due to hormonal changes and sun damage. The eye area home care is moisturizing, building and should have an ingredient for treating shadows under the eyes.

Grade 5
Deep wrinkles; deep nasolabial folds; aged appearance; loss of firmness and elasticity on neck, lower face, eye area; deep forehead wrinkles; definite hyperkeratotic areas.

Home Care. Home care should involve high percentage anti-aging ingredients with targeted delivery systems. Retinoids or AHAs should always be introduced before the deep peels or professional laser treatments, which are usually recommended by physicians. Home care post-treatment products should include those that contain ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, free radical scavengers, wound-healing plant extracts, and zinc or titanium dioxide sunscreens should be introduced while the epidermis is re-epithelialized. The treatments and home care products should include higher active ingredient percentages for clients of higher grades of aging.

Protecting the Skin:
Once the cause of skin aging as well as the enemies of the skin have been identified, then it can be easy to create a cosmetic skin care regimen to protect the skin. Hydration of the skin is one of the best means to keep the skin young, supple, elastic and protected. By hydration it is understood that the correct emollients and active ingredients must be used. These include emollients that are comprised of the correct fatty acids and wax esters. These fatty acids must also include Linolenic and Linoleic Acid, more commonly referred to as Omega 3 and Omega 6. These fatty acids form great barriers (ceramides) that help retain skin moisture. Wax Esters, particularly from jojoba form an excellent natural skin moisture barrier. It is far superior to synthetic ingredients such as petrolatum, mineral oil or silicones.

Active ingredients such as vitamins, minerals, UV full spectrum sunscreens, hyaluronic acid, peptides, anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories, free radical scavengers and others should also be formulated into any superior cosmetic product. The vitamins and minerals can help nurture the newly formed skin cells. Full spectrum sunscreens help block out rays from the sun which cause free radicals to damage the skin at the cellular level. Hyaluronic Acid and the peptides help to moisturize the skin and to build collagen and elastin. The anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatories, and free-radical scavengers form a protective barrier from harsh environmental factors. Each of these play basic key roles in keeping the skin protected and as free from aging as possible. The best way to choose superior cosmetic products is to read the ingredients list and to look for these key ingredients.

free skin care · Wed Nov 25, 2009 8:45 am

Alien wrote:

I read this with interest. But, i notice the repeated suggestion, if you can call "the client MUST use" a suggestion, to use Hyaluronic ACid.
Was there not a study showing that HA simply "wets" the skin, and will over time actually do more harm then good?

Alien, I think what you need to remember here is "dose". Everything is different depending on the dose that is applied. I think putting 100% pure HA on the skin could disrupt the normal skin cell/sebum barrier by displacing the sebum....thus drying out the skin rather than hydrating it. But, HA is in your natural skin cell/sebum matrix. So, adding a very small percentage of HA, like that which is in a well formulated cream or lotion, will work synergistically with the emollient oils (fatty acids and wax esters) in the cream or lotion. In that way, you will get complete hydration that is very compatible with your existing skin sebum. In this case "a little bit" is much better than adding a lot. And that is probably what the case study that you are referring to is talking about.

Hope this helps,

John

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