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Barrier repair creams and related topicals
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Barefootgirl
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Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:45 pm      Reply with quote
Sorry, good idea to keep this separate from the Epionce thread.

This is a recent article by the researcher who who has studied prescription type barrier repair creams vs. OTC type preparations:


http://www.cosderm.com/fileadmin/qhi_archive/ArticlePDF/CD/024060256.pdf

BFG
bethany
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Wed Aug 14, 2013 3:54 pm      Reply with quote
Looks like h.kitty was right about the patent issue.

You may want to look at the Thornfeldt book thread...I posted some other product info over there for you, but I'll ask Havana to move stuff over here.

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RussianSunshine
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Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:10 pm      Reply with quote
What are the prescription barrier repair products and moisturizers? Never heard of that.
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Wed Aug 14, 2013 4:16 pm      Reply with quote
RussianSunshine wrote:
What are the prescription barrier repair products and moisturizers? Never heard of that.


They have a certain FDA approval. Here is one, and based on the names assume it falls under one of Dr. T's patents:

http://www.epiceram-us.com/

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Barefootgirl
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Wed Aug 14, 2013 5:56 pm      Reply with quote
This is the part of the article that stood out the most for me:


The final question is what is the difference between prescription barrier repair products and moisturizers?

I would say that the main difference is that the prescription barrier repair products have filed for a 510(k) device approval and the OTC moisturizers have not.


BFG
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 9:46 am      Reply with quote
Thsnk you for posting this interesting article. It does seem to take the mystique out of a lot of skincare (and the matching prices).
bethany
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:06 am      Reply with quote
Lotusesther wrote:
Thsnk you for posting this interesting article. It does seem to take the mystique out of a lot of skincare (and the matching prices).


Agreed...it was a great read.

CeraVe and SkinActives Every Lipid Serum both have the 3 barrier repairing ingredients.

And here is an older thread on barrier repair where we talked about some other products:

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=35800&postdays=0&postorder=asc&&start=0

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Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:26 am      Reply with quote
Thank you to BFG & Bethany for getting this topic going!

I just want to say that I have been doing a trial of SA ELS (which I have used for a while but not consistently) & Epionce Medical Barrier Cream - One on each of my forearms - both of which are sundamaged. Sad

After a wk (in fact really after the 1st application) there is NO contest. MBC wins hands dwn! My MBS forearm is MUCH smoother & softer & appears less damaged. This is with a single application/day.

I also used the MBC on some persistent eczema on one of my hands & it is virtually GONE! (and I noticed improvement after the 1st application as well)

I am very impressed! Very Happy
Barefootgirl
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 10:38 am      Reply with quote
Currently, Dr. Zoe Draelos of Duke U. appears to be doing research related to barrier repair creams and moisturizers and the differences between them.

I need to post a link to her DermTube presentation - but if you want to go there now to watch it - search under barrier repair. She casts doubt on whether the optimal ratios are necessary.

I think for my skin condtion, Cerave will continue to work unless I start dealing again with serious inflammation in which case, I might want to try some of the topicals used for dermatitis and similar conditions as well as the Epionce products.

BFG
bethany
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:12 am      Reply with quote
cabrita wrote:
Thank you to BFG & Bethany for getting this topic going!

I just want to say that I have been doing a trial of SA ELS (which I have used for a while but not consistently) & Epionce Medical Barrier Cream - One on each of my forearms - both of which are sundamaged. Sad

After a wk (in fact really after the 1st application) there is NO contest. MBC wins hands dwn! My MBS forearm is MUCH smoother & softer & appears less damaged. This is with a single application/day.

I also used the MBC on some persistent eczema on one of my hands & it is virtually GONE! (and I noticed improvement after the 1st application as well)

I am very impressed! Very Happy


I think it really comes down to individual needs. I had been using the Environ Body Cream on my arms (also supposed to focus on the barrier), and they continued to look like crap after ReAura until I started using the MBC. But if one has healthy skin and isn't using doing any crazy stuff, they may not need the higher end product.

BTW, in Dr. T's book, he said that the desired ratios actually varied in certain cases like eczema, psoriasis, and other skin disorders.

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bethany
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 11:13 am      Reply with quote
FYI that Nia24 also focuses on strengthening the skin barrier, though I have not looked at the ingredient list.

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Thu Aug 15, 2013 12:40 pm      Reply with quote
bethany wrote:
FYI that Nia24 also focuses on strengthening the skin barrier, though I have not looked at the ingredient list.


That's right, Bethany. The Intensive Recovery Complex is my HG moisturiser. It uses a compelx of Niacin, oils and ceramides to help repair the skin barrier.
Barefootgirl
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 1:11 pm      Reply with quote
Yes, it looks like there are several ingredients singly and in combination that support barrier repair and moisturization and definitely agree it's an individual case basis...maybe even under a physician's care...depending.


BFG
bethany
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Thu Aug 15, 2013 1:27 pm      Reply with quote
It looks like Dermalogica has one available too called Ultra Calming Barrier Repair.

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Fri Aug 16, 2013 9:56 pm      Reply with quote
I was looking priori barrier repair complex. Has anyone tried this one?

It has following ingredients:
Aqua, Glycerin, Isohexadecane, Isododecane, Ceresin, Cyclotetrasiloxane, Sucrose Cocoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sodium PCA, Dimethicone, Steareth-2, Lactic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Phospholipids, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Retinyl Palmitate, Beta-Carotene, Allantoin Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Bisabolol, Ceramide 3, Cholesterol, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Polysilicone-11, Butylene Glycol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin.

But at the moment I'm using argan oil with Nancys VOLU-LIFT Recontouring Face Cream With Ceramides. Do you think this would be enough?

I just can't use anything with rosehip oil which many barrier complex creams seem to have. It just breaks me out. I noticed the epionce barrier MBC has this( since it's being talked about on EDS), which looks good, but won't risk trying. Even the ELS serum by skinactives broke me out.

Anyways any input on the priori or what I'm doing would be great. Its nice to see we're talking about skin barrier protection. The discussions have had good timing as for the past week I've taken a break from acids and skipping a needling session, which I've been doing every 6 weeks (4x now). My plan was to have a 2 week acid holiday Shock , then slowly ease back into it. Good idea?

TYIA

Edited to add that once I had an allergic reaction to compost gardening dirt on my face. I even used gloves and all. So I went to see my esthetician and she put a dermalogica mask and even gave me a couple samples of the sensitive skin barrier repair that's mentioned in PP and it was pretty good. In two days it all cleared up. Just thought I'd add that in as I'm not really a dermalogica fan Very Happy
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Tue Aug 20, 2013 11:42 pm      Reply with quote
I love this quote from the article:

Quote:
. Petrolatum remains
the gold standard for barrier repair ingredients because it is the substance closest to the natural intercellular lipids and it can intercalate into the intercellular spaces.


Recently, I've been back to using Vaseline as a body moisturiser and it works better for me than all the fancy ones - cheap and cheerful and doesn't give me a rash! There are lots of people who say that Vaseline is the best thing for the face.

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Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:02 am      Reply with quote
Laughing

Eva Fraser has always said to use vaseline!!

I used to use it on my lips which always dried up and got cracked in the winter it worked every time, I stopped using it when vaseline went out of fashion !! Now its back in.

Just give it time and all the good stuf comes back in

Wink

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Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:39 am      Reply with quote
For post-laser care, mole removal etc. doctors still recommend Vaseline.

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Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:08 am      Reply with quote
I use Vaseline daily on my lips and nose but on my post-laser treatments, Ipl's etc. I also use Aquaphor all over my face. That stuff is a staple in our home.

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Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:37 am      Reply with quote
There's petrolatum in both Nivea and Creme de la Mer Very Happy
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Wed Aug 21, 2013 8:55 am      Reply with quote
oh this provokes a funny memory. My former mother in law was gorgeous in her 50s and her mother was beautiful in her 80s....my MIL used Estee Lauder Night Repair as her primary line of defense, but a lifetime of sun and cigarettes left her quite wrinkled.

She used to say to me "look at my mothers 80 year old skin and can you believe that all she uses is Vaseline!??"

BFG
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Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:08 pm      Reply with quote
At my father's funeral I met a niece I hadn't seen in ages. She was, then, somewhere in her sixties. And she had absolutely perfect skin. I could not resist asking her what she used. She was confused for a moment - skin care? - and then said - Nivea.
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Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:14 pm      Reply with quote
I think what it all boils down to is - we now have way more knowledge of topical actives and also way more pollution and other problematic things to fight. But preserving the skin barrier, with Vaseline or Nivea or if you're into that Creme de la Mer is a wise thing to do with plenty of both anecdotal and scientific evidence behind it.
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Wed Aug 21, 2013 12:33 pm      Reply with quote
Bethany, hhhhh she was just advising me to focus on this issue (barrier skin repair).


Here is my story: Im sahar from Tunisia, I want you to help me, I bought my 5 dr.rollers and sill don know how to use them nor with which cream I should use them (for my eyes and my face), still I didn't start dermarolling, yesterday I received my 5 dr.roller and I don know how to start, I am 25, still young but woke up one day and found small fine lines under my eyes , I also started noticing some tear troughs , I got chocked and I think it is because I used a very concentrated anti aging serum for the eye contour, the idea was to stimulate blood circulation in order to lighten my new dark circles and the serum was made of vitamin c and ginko biloba in high doses, it was like i was naturally hindering the production of my own collagen, as a result I got new fine lines under my eyes after one week of the serum use. I have more fine lines in the right eye... Im not sure about the reason I told you, because drops of the vitamin c serum I put weren't too much and I didn't use the serum for a long period, it was just one week or 2. May be because I'm sleeping too late since 2 years and having lots of stress and this decreases collagen in my skin. note that sometimes when I used Flavo c serum , I was mixing it with some strong essential oils (everlasting immortelle(helicryse italienne+lavender maillete) along with organic rosehip vegetal oil; this may be a cause for the sudden tear throughs and fine lines or may be because at that time was doing some facial exercices (not on regular basis). I don know , help me, I need to get back my own collagen and I'm afraid of anti-aging creams. I need a cream that can help my skin regenerate its own natural collagen, I mean I need something that can help my skin reproduce collagen by itself, my motif is to restore my own collagen to get it back and make it regenerate more and more than before. I can accept dark circles but the hollow eyes no no never, I need your support to eliminate the hollowness and the fine lines under my eyes. basis), I don know. I'm not sure if dermaroller is the right option to choose but I think derma roller is the most natural solution to help me get back my collagen, that's why and as I told you the texture of my skin is not good and I have chicken pox scars with wrinkles. I don't think any cream will eliminate my small fine wrinkles, I need something that can help me restore collagen in a natural way. How can you help me? I need your advice.
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Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:22 pm      Reply with quote
Skinmedica Ceramide Treatment Creme is wonderful. I discovered this after a rec to use it post fractionated C02 laser and continue to use it.

It is my daily eye cream, and at night I use it after retin A. I have never had my under eye skin in better condition. When I feel my barrier is compromised, I use it on my entire face. It's really not a bad price, $64 for two ounces, and it lasts a long time.

From the Skinmedica site:

Contains the dynamic blend of patented growth factor blend TNS® and Ceramide technology to assist post-procedure skin

Helps to support epithelialization of post-procedure skin

Rapidly restores skin's barrier and moisture balance


Key Ingredients

Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (TNS®) → A physiologically balanced, naturally secreted and stabilized growth factors blend that helps improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and overall skin tone and texture.

Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA (Ceramide) → Skin barrier agent that promotes and maintains the moisture mantle of the skin and improves the skin texture by emollient and moisture-retaining effects.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide → A synthetic tripeptide designed to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 → A synthetic peptide designed to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
Ingredients

Water/Aqua/Eau, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide MEA, Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media, Dimethicone, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil, Cetearyl Glucoside, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Sterols, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Carboxymethyl Beta-Glucan, Squalane, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glycerin, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Isoceteth-20, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol, Carbomer, Tetrasodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben

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