FAQ list associated with EDS FAQ Index (do not remove pls)
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:32 am

This is the source post for the EDS FAQ being maintained at http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?p=19462

If you would like to contribute a topic the please PM me.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:34 am

The difference between AHAs and BHAs (contributed by Safire)

From my understanding there is only one main type of Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA) available, Salicylic Acid which is usually the most popular or common form of exfoliant that people know of. BHA is derived from asprin & hence has some anti-inflammatory properties (I was suprised when I heard this! Very Happy

) & is therefore less likely to cause skin damage or irritation in comparision to AHAs.

However in terms of Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) there are several different types available/used. These include: glycolic acid (from sugar cane), lactic acid (from milk), malic acid (from apples/pears), citric acid (from citrus fruits), & tartaric acid (from grapes). The most commonly used & apparently the strongest & most effective of these is glycolic acid.

The main difference between AHAs & BHAs is based on their solubility. BHAs tend to be oil-soluble & are therefore considered to be better for oily, blemish-prone skin types. Seeing as they are oil-soluble they can penetrate oily skin to exfoliate deep down into the pores to help keep them clear, reducing blemishes & blackheads. Whereas AHAs are actually water-soluble, and therefore don’t exfoliate deep down into pores, but tend to exfoliate mostly the skin surface. Apparently AHAs (& BHAs) with lower pH levels i.e. lower acidity tend to have the highest & fastest rate of absorption into the skin, & therefore provide the best exfoliation.

I am not 100% sure about this, but as far as I know both AHAs & BHAs work similarly in terms of exfoliation. They both slough off dead surface skin cells to reveal newer & healthier cells. This process helps improve uneven skin tone, roughness, wrinkles, sun-damage, freckles & blemishes, to name a few. Due to the removal of the outer layer of dead skin cells, both AHAs & BHAs also allow the skin to absorb moisture a lot more easily. Added by Carekate: However, AHAs are more effective at surface exfoliation because only they have the ability to dissolve the "glue" that holds together the dead skin cells to the fresh, new skin beneath (whereas the BHAs work more in the pores - added by Mabsy). Please see this post for further details: http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=5981&start=321

I won’t go into the side effects of BHAs & AHAs as I assume most people are aware that they can cause some redness, dryness or skin/sun sensitivity Smile

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:37 am

Acne Prescription Topicals- Vitamin A Derivatives: (contributed by manslayerliz)

One of the most popular families of prescription acne topical therapy is the Vitamin A derivatives. This group includes Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, and Differin. Out of this group, Differin is considered the topical cream with the least potential to irritate the skin. That being said, different formulations work for different people, so if you are still unsatisfied with the results you are receiving after a couple months with one product you might consider going back to your dermatologist and trying a different formulation.

The vitamin A derivatives are known as “keratolytics”--- they dissolve the plugs of keratin that would otherwise be clogging your pores. At the same time, they exfoliate the superficial layer of your skin while encouraging collagen-production in the deeper layers. That’s why vitamin A derivatives have also come to be used in anti-aging regimens as well.
While vitamin A derivatives are often very effective in keeping pores unclogged, if someone is suffering from painful, cystic acne it’s likely that the vitamin A derivative alone will not be enough to solve the problem. In this case, either another topical therapy, such as sulfer or a topical antibiotic, or an oral antibiotic are often suggested.

One drawback to using vitamin A derivatives is that there is a high risk of the skin being highly sensitized, especially when the treatment is first started. Many people complain of red, peeling, irritated skin. Depending on your skin type and the product you are using some of this irritation may be inevitable and once your skin adjusts you will begin to see more consistent results. However, there are steps you can take to minimize your risk of irritation:
1) Begin by applying the product every other night, until you see how your skin will react.
2) Wash your face with a mild cleanser, follow up with a mild toner, and then wait 15 or 20 minutes to give your skin a chance to dry completely. (Water increases the potential for irritation.)
3) Initially restrict your use of other actives such as AHA, BHA acids, etc. Once your skin has adjusted to the medication, begin to slowly add the actives back into your routine, one at a time. Give your skin time to adjust to each new product, and watch it carefully for excessive dryness, redness, or peeling.
4) Avoid using other very strong topical treatments such as 10% benzoyl peroxide or sulfur until you have consulted a dermatologist.
5) Vitamin A derivatives will make your skin more susceptible to sun damage, so be absolutely sure to use a broad-spectrum sunblock during the day.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:38 am

Vitamin C (contributed by sormuimui)

Vitamin C must be in the form of L'ascorbic acid for it to be beneficial for skin. It is a water-soluble antioxidant that stimulates both collagen synthesis and provides sun protection. L'ascorbic acid provides sun protection by neutralizing free radicals which are highly reactive molecules produced by the interaction of sunlight (UV rays) and our skin tissue. In other words, it helps prevent premature aging due to photodamage. That is why it is used in many preventative skincare products and when used, makes a good complementary product to sunscreen.

Vitamin C also helps with those who are already beginning to see signs of aging. It has been proven to be one of the only antioxidants that stimulate collagen synthesis. How, I am not sure, but it seems to be one of the only compounds that the body recognizes for this purpose. Through collagen synthesis, Vitamin C has shown to contribute in healing and alleviating skin problems and thus would be suitable to most or all skintypes.

Once Vitamin C is absorbed it cannot be rubbed or washed off. However L'ascorbic acid is still relatively unstable and will oxidize in time (depending on how stable a particular product is - the more stable the less quickly oxidization). Vitamin C topicals should always be stored away from light, in a cool and dry place. It tends to oxidize and lose its effectiveness more quickly if stored in direct sunlight (thus the amber colored bottles). Vit C should be applied 12 hours apart from copper peptides and L'ascorbic acid must have a low pH level for it to be effective.

Vitamin C Esters

In general, an ester is the combination of an acid and alcohol. Thus ascorbic acid/L'ascorbic acid (Vit C) + alcohol = Ester-C. It has been shown that ester-c is beneficial to skin and perhaps even better than Vit C as it is more stable and has a longer shelf life (most topical ester-c products claim to have a shelf life of 2 years). However Ester-C is most readily found in supplements rather than topicals and can be mixed with other vitamins and minerals like calcium, etc. Ester-C products claim to be as effective as normal Vitamin C products (although I cannot comment because I have never used an Ester-C product).

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:39 am

Hydroquinone/Kojic Acid (contributed by manslayerliz)

Hydroquinone is what’s known as a “Bleaching Agent.” Actually, it’s the only chemical that the FDA will currently allow to be called as such. Hydroquinone is used to treat hyperpigmentation but ironically it does not “bleach,” but rather it inhibits melanin production. The process can be expedited by manual or chemical exfoliation, and of course a broad spectrum sunblock MUST be used to prevent more damage and melanin production.

Many people, however, approach hydroquinone with caution. The higher concentrations present a risk for something called “ochronosis” which is a condition where dark spots appear on the skin. The FDA deems hydroquinone to be otherwise safe, but it has been banned in some other countries where studies have indicated that it may be carcinogenic as well as a cause of birth defects.

People who don’t feel comfortable with using hydroquinone often instead use Kojic Acid. Kojic Acid is botanically-derived and it has similar melanin-blocking properties to hydroquinone but it does not share the risk for ochronosis, nor has it been indicated as being carcinogenic. Like Hydroquinone, Kojic Acid will be the most effective when it is used with a broad spectrum sun block.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:40 am

COPPER PEPTIDES (contributed by Molly)

Copper peptides are always naturally present in the skin and there are higher levels of it when the skin has been damaged which triggers repair. Products containing Copper Peptides (CPs) are a way of introducing this function topically and using the natural process of healing to accelerate skin renewal. In tests copper peptides have been shown to; remove damaged proteins and collagen and stimulate the production of new GAGs (water holding proteins), elastin and collagen. CPs are also both anti-inflammatory and a potent anti-oxidant so skin improvements should be achieved without the kind of skin barrier irritation typically experienced when using retinoids or AHAs. The long-term result should be thicker, firmer skin with better moisture retention and (maybe) a reduction in wrinkles. This process is often referred to as ‘remodelling’.

What are they used for?
Here on EDS - Primarily anti-aging, but also scar reduction and sometimes mole reduction or elimination. Some users recommend them just for healing after peels and microdermabrasion.

Product confusion!!! Which to use?
There are two types of copper peptide used in skincare products which causes some confusion; First generation CPs which are used in most products including Renova and Neutrogena and second generation CPs which are only used in Skinbio’s products and they have slightly different properties (so see note below about what you can use them with). Both were invented by Doctor Pickart who first worked for Procyte and then set up Skinbio (www.skinbio.com). More peer reviewed tests have been carried out on the ‘first generation’ CPs, but the products which use them have lower percentages than were used in those tests. The second generation CPs (Skinbio’s) only have tests behind them to prove healing not anti-aging so we can only assume that these will reduce wrinkles, but they do have the same percentages of the active in them.

What can’t you use them with
First generation CPs (e.g.Neova/Neutrogena) are not stable when used with acids so you cannot combine them with AHAs, BHAs, Retin A etc.

CPs of both kinds cannot be applied to the skin at the same time as Vitamin C because Vitamin C is neutralized by copper, (but only on the surface of the skin not once it has absorbed and become part of the skin matrix. In fact both copper and Vitamin C are naturally present in the skin at the same time.) A lot of users do combine CPs and Vitamin C by using one in the evening and the other in the morning.

How do you use them?
They can be used AM (as they do not make you sun sensitive) or PM, or both. It’s best to start with products with low concentrations until your skin is used to it. You can layer Skinbio’s CPs with acids (acids first then CPs) or Retinoids (retinoids first then CPs) and many other actives to speed up renewal.

Warning: Skinbio has some extra strong products – Tri-reduction, SuperCP serum, Supercop cream and Supercop X 2 which can be highly irritating and should only be used after months of use of the lower level products.

How long until I see results
A lot of people experience a glow and generally healthier skin very quickly down to the repair of the skin barrier and CP’s anti-oxidant properties, but to see signs of renewed proteins, increased moisturisation and collagen you should give it 3 months at least.

Problems
Some people experience ‘the uglies’ where people get fine lines and sagging skin at some point during use. There’s no agreement about the cause and it seems to particularly afflict people in the eye area. One theory puts this down to irritation from using too much too quickly or general overuse, another that some individuals might be hyper-sensitive to copper and finally that in some individuals the damaged proteins and collagen are being removed but for some reason the skin function does not replace these quickly enough . Some people carry on using albeit more slowly and ‘the uglies’ vanish, others find continued use doesn’t sort out their problem.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:41 am

What is an Essential Oil?(contributed by wildflower)

An essential oil is a volatile substance derived from a natural source through various processes such as, distillation, solvent extraction, expression, etc. The essence may be sourced from the flower, leaf, stem, root, bark, seed, resin, rind or nut of the plant. Essential Oils are considered the "life force" of the plant as they carry its energy signature. They are used by nature as a self defense mechanism, and to propogate life (by repelling and attracting insects). Essential oils are used in various industries such as cosmetic, perfumery, pharmaceutical, medical, food & drink, industrial, and of course aromatherapy and holistic health. EOs should be used with caution as they have contraindications and should be diluted when applied to the skin.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:43 am

What is a Carrier or Base Oil? (contributed by wildflower)

A carrier or base oil is often used to dilute essential oils but can be used solely on its own. It is usually derived from vegetables, nuts or seeds and has very therapeutic properties itself. The oil is often high in essential fatty acids, proteins, vitamins and minerals and is very beneficial for the skin due to its natural composition being similar to the natural sebaceous quality of skin.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:43 am

What is a Hydrosol? (contributed by wildflower)

A hydrosol is also known as a floral water, plant water, distillate or hydrolate. It is derived from the distillation process (of essential oils) as the residue or byproduct. It contains all essences of the plant in a water soluble form and is extremely beneficial and therapeutic while being safer to use as well. Hydrosols are used in aromatherapy, in the cosmetic and perfumery industry and in food and drink as well.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:44 am

EMU OIL (contributed by Guapagirl)

Comes from a large flightless bird and is a by product of the meat industry (you would be amazed how many people say 'so what is it?').

Much hyped as a miracle anti-aging cure that does everything except make the tea, emu oil is a fantastic anti inflammatory, is non-comodogenic (sp?....sorry bit brahms as usual Rolling Eyes

) and, this is where skincare junkies get very excited, is a brilliant penetrant. Not like sex, but better. It helps push actives into the skin. This is because emu oil is truly transdermal. That means it actually penetrates the skin barrier rather than sitting on top of it like most oils etc. If your 'active' (copper,Vit C) etc is under the emu, it goes in deeper. In thoery anyway.

Emu comes in different grades. Raw unrefined emu isn't easy to get hold of and is probably pretty smelly (very good for joint pain however apparantly).

For skincare, you will be after refined, which has a slightly grainy texture and goes solid at low temps. It's very affordable and good stuff.

If you want to use emu under makeup or have slightly oily skin, you may like triple refined emu oil. This is generally clear and liquid at all but the lowest temps. It is very light and easily absorbed, but dryskins may prefer regular or....

Winterised emu. This is sometimes sold as 'Ultra' emu oil. It has something like 45% more anti-inflammatory effects, is very moisturising and easily absorbed. Texture is kind of between regular and triple refined. Not as grainy as regular and more solid at room temp than triple. A little goes a long way and it mixes well with actives like copper peps and HA (I actually mix all three as a body lotion and it stays emulsified).

If you like it a lot, you can buy it in bulk from the processors, or just use small amounts on the face. If you do buy large amounts, decant into a small bottle as you need it and refridgerate. That way it'll keep for 12-18 momnths.

Finally, emu oil if refined, DOES NOT SMELL!
...if yours is smelly bin it! It nearly always has vit E oil added as a preservative but that is all.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:47 am

DMAE (contributed by MelissaMarie)

DMAE stands for dimethylaminoethanol. It is used in pill form by many for anti aging benefits, but in skincare, its mainly for firming. It also helps bind moisture. The problem with alot of creams with this in it, is the concentration is way way way too low. At higher concentrations the firming and moisture retention is greatly increased.
I've tried quiet a few with too little and the results are nominal, if any. So you want to look for a product where its listed high in the ingredient list, so that theres enough of the product in it. If its listed low, its not going to do much for you. I could give percentages but since skincare companys don't list ingredients that way its easy to look for one where its listed high, Amino Genisis is one I believe where that is the case (and there are plenty of raves alone for their products).

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:48 am

Idebenone (contributed by amnis)

This is a powerful antioxidant similar to CoEnzyme Q10 (in fact it is a synthetic variant of Co Q10) that is said to be even more powerful than vitamin e. It is known to have an EPF (Environmental Protection Factor) of 95 while vitamin e has an EPF of 80 (based on a scale of 0 to 100). Idebenone is able to penetrate down into the deeper layers of the skin. It is also considered to be gentler on the skin in comparison to other common antioxidants. Interestingly, idebenone is said to be more effective than Co Q10 because at low oxygen levels it still has antioxidant properties while Co Q10 actually produces free radicals.

What is does:

-protects skin from the environment
-improves lines and wrinkles
-hydrates
-smoothes texture
-reduces inflammation
-lightens pigment (like hydroquinone)

Depending upon the concentration in a product, it can produce results in as soon as approximately 6 weeks.

Similarly to Co Q10, Idebenone can be taken orally as a supplement as well.

Common skin care products containing idebenone:
Prevage
PrevageMD
Sovage
True Cosmetics Youth Revealing Complex
True Cosmetics Radiance Revealing Complex
(Note on True's makeup: I was told by an aesthetician that uses their line that while their makeup contains idenbenone it doesn't perform the same as the Youth and Radiance Revealing Complex in delivering it deep into your skin. It does however help with surface inflammation.)

You can also purchase idebenone to use in your DIY formulations on sites such as personalformulator.com

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:49 am

TCA peel (contributed by Majorb on behalf of Anna_in_Sweden)

TCA is Trichloroacetic acid and it is a deeper peel than Glycolic, Lactic and Salicylic acids. It helps with fine lines and pigment discolourations. I have had success with it which is why I have continued to do them.

I have noticed that all TCA peels for home use are not created equal. In an attempt to save money I purchased from a few ebay sellers and I found that even their higher formulas 18%, 20% were weaker than the 12% and 16% that I bought from Platinum Skincare. I started with their 12% first then worked up to 16%. Platinum Skincare recommends this for people new to TCA peels. They sell samples which allows you about 3 or 4 peels to start with. You might try this to see if your skin agrees with it. If it doesn't you could always use the remainder on your hands or chest area. I don't work for Platinum Skincare I just found that their peels are superior to the others that I've seen and bought out there. Home use TCA is weaker than that at a doctor's office. A lot of pictures that I have seen online make it look like this is a major procedure but those are in office patients and the % of their peels are often 30% or higher and usually several layers as well. A 12% or 16% will not give you those dramatic results after one peel but what I like about these home peels is that I can control how much I will flake or peel based on strength of the formula and the number of layers. You can get great results with doing several less deep peels over time.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:50 am

CARRIER OILS (contributed by wildflower)

Almond Oil: Rich in minerals, vitamins and proteins. Excellent as a body oil and for massage. Recommended for dry, sensitive, rough and irritated skin. One of the most useful and versatile base oils.

Apricot Oil: Recommended for aging and mature skin as well as sensitive and inflamed skin conditions as it helps soothe, nourish and restore.

Avocado Oil: High in vitamin E, beta carotene, and protein. Helps soothe irritated skin conditions such as eczema and helps promote regeneration of new skin so works well with scarred, and chapped skin. Because of its unsaturated fatty acids it works as a light ultraviolet filter as well. Recommended for dry, dull and dehydrated skin. Great hair treatment too.

Calendula Oil: Calendula is an excellent healing oil for dry, chapped, scaly or irritated skin. Helps control eczema, psoriasis and rashes by soothing and preventing future breakouts. Can be used all over the entire body. Ideal for babies as it is gentle and soothing (especially for nappy rashes).

Camellia Oil: Great for sensitive and irritated skin as it contains soothing and healing properties. Excellent for skin prone to rosacea and redness. Also recommended for dry, chapped skin or rough skin as it restores nourishment and skin elasticity.

Coconut Oil: Excellent hair and body oil. Works great as an after sun oil to help soothe skin. Great for massages and hair masks and to blend your own perfume. Not recommended for facial skin as it leaves face too oily.

Evening Primrose: One of my favourite facial oils. Rich in vitamins, minerals, GLA content and antioxidants. Excellent for a wide variety of skin conditions especially sensitive and highly sensitive skin conditions, and irritated skin conditions like eczema, psoriasis or rosacea. Perfect for dry, chapped, mature and aging skin as it is highly soothing and nourishing, and helps with skin regeneration and elasticity.

Grapeseed Oil: A popular massage oil as it penetrates easily although it does cause staining (of sheets) and tends to go rancid quickly. Works well as a base oil for blends with essential oils or with other carrier oils . Recommended for dry and mature skin.

Hazelnut/Macadamia Oil: These nutty oils maintain basically the same properties. Excellent for sun protection and for homemade sunscreens. Work well with dry and mature skin. Make great hair treatment masks as they are very nourishing and smell great.

Jojoba Oil: Another versatile carrier oil which is actually a wax. Rich in proteins and minerals and highly penetrative. Contains myrisitic acid which helps with inflammation. Jojoba resembles the skin's own sebum so helps control oil production while being moisturizing as well which makes it a great balancing oil. Great for oily and acne prone skin. Excellent for both body, hair and facial care.

Olive Oil: Excellent for hair treatments due to its highly nourishing qualities. Rich in minerals, vitamins, proteins and fatty acids. Recommended for dry and dehydrated skin. Works well to prevent stretch marks and can also be used as a natural sunscreen.

Pomegranate Oil: Very high in antioxidants so it helps heal and soothe skin while preventing further damage. Very nourishing and restorative. Recommended for aging and mature skin. The most expensive of the base oils and one of the most difficult to find.

Rosehip Oil: Another huge favourite of mine. Rich in vitamin A and minerals. Very high in linoeic and gammalinolenic acids. Excellent facial oil for all skin types as it promotes skin regeneration and restructuring. Great for mature and aging skin as it helps cell damage and renewal. Wonderful for sensitive skin and irritated skin conditions such as rosacea as it helps soothe irritation and redness, reduces inflammation, helps heal broken capillaries and nourishes dry, chapped skin. Also works wonders in lightening and preventing scars and stretchmarks. This is my "miracle" oil.

Sesame Oil: Rich in GLAs, this is a very nourishing oil and balancing oil. Recommended for acne prone and very oily skin as well as extremely dry and dehydrated skin.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:51 am

Hyaluronic Acid (HA) (contributed by Molly)

Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring substance found in the body; it lubricates the joints, plumps the skin and is present in large quantities during fetal development. As we age the production and levels of HA in the body and skin declines dramatically. We can add HA to the skin topically or we can take HA supplements to boost our levels. (Although scientific opinion is divided on whether oral supplements can affect the skin there are a lot of EDS users who swear by it, especially for lip plumping.)

It’s main property is that it is the strongest known natural humectant available with the ability to hold up to 1000 times its own weight in water. It can also penetrate the deeper levels of the skin and fill in intra-cellular spaces to create a supportive environment for skin functioning. It’s main cosmetic effect is as an immediate skin plumper, which is why it is used in small percentages in a wide range of cosmetics. This is not a permanent effect so you need to apply it regularly to see results.

When used as a neat HA serum it is usually formulated as a 1% solution, which can be bought very reasonably in large quantities, already mixed, or you can buy it in powder form and make it into a serum with water yourself. You can apply day or night, as often as you like as it’s neutral and non-irritating.

How do most people use it? Sometimes directly on clean skin - this feels like a dry, plumping moisturizer, if that isn’t a contradiction, and if you have oily skin or the weather’s very humid this might be a good option for you. Others with normal to dry skin or in a dryer environment like to mix it with a natural oil, such as emu. You can sandwich HA-emu-HA for an extra plumping effect which is especially good for the undereyes. You can also put it over other topicals as a final layer, to aid penetration. Because it is neutral and moisturizing it is also recommended after peels and other procedures to create a healing environment.

There are two sources of HA; one is plant derived and another is from Cocks’ combs so if you’re a vegetarian you might want to check the source. (BTW, Cocks’ combs were reserved as an exclusive Imperial food in ancient China).

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:53 am

Corrective Concealers (contributed by Rosebud)

There are 3 main types of coloured corrective Concealers:

*Lavender: Helps to conceal very dark under-eye circles and dark spots on bronze skin tones. Normalizes yellow-colored imperfections
such as sallow complexions and yellow bruises.
Lifts sallow complexions

*Yellow: Used to conceal bluish bruises, under-eye circles and mild red tones on the face. Brightens warmer skin tones

*Green (mint green): Used to neutralize red tones on the skin. Use this for covering blemishes, red blotches, rosacea, port-wine stains.

Apricot: Brightens cooler skin tones

Peach: Brightens cooler skin tones

Rose: Lifts sallow complexions and gives a glow

Blue: Takes down orangey skin tones, also corrects bad self-tan applications!

Bronze: Brightens and lifts nearly all skin tones. Gives a healthy sun-kissed look

Gold: Accentuates golden skin tones and suntans

Silver: Brightens cooler skins. Usually only done in the evening!

These Concealers are nuetralising colours, they appear opposite on the colour wheel.
Green neutralises red whilst blue neutralises orange.
By covering a red blemish or spot with green concealer, then make-up the red tones will not shine though.

Concealer can work wonderfully when applied correctly, but when done wrong it is like your worst enemy, here are some key tips I find work for me:

SHADOWS

Always test the shade over your foundation, their is a misconception that for undereye you should go for a lighter shade, this will lead to white rings which look just as bad as dark ones.
To keep things as natural as possible, apply your foundation first and then top up the cover on only the inner half of the under eye. This way if you have the beginnings of fine lines, you are not adding weight to the outer half and showing off the problem.
Using a brush will give a more natural coverage than fingers, however using your ring finger will apply less pressure to the delicate skin.
To avoid eye concealer becoming too heavy you can also mix with eye cream to creat an eye treatment.

BAGS AND PUFFINESS

Again using a brush (once you have applied your foundation), paint a slightly lighter concealer into the dip under the bag. The best products for this have light-diffusing particles, Ives St Laurant Touche Eclait is a good example. The effect is that you want to bounce the shadow under the eye-bag away. Heavy concealer will always make bags look worse.

RED CHEEKS/NOSE/SPOTS

If using a colour corrector, apply the smallest amount possible, then apply your foundation. Once that has set, once more apply the tiniest amount of the colour corrector.
Small layers work more effectively than piling everything on at once.

If not using a colour corrector, apply your foundation as per normal. Then, using a concealer that you've tested over the foundation, apply nearly dried concealer over the foundation in light patting strokes. The reasoning behind this is that if the product is too wet, you will remove any cover you have achieved with the foundation. Then reapply a bit of foundation in the same way.
When covering excess rednes always work in layers.

As you can probably tell concealer is my best friend when it comes to make-up Laughing

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:55 am

SUNSCREEN (contributed by Molly)

What’s the difference between a physical and a chemical sunscreen?
Physical sunscreens refract the UV radiation off your skin. Chemical sunscreens absorb the UV radiation.

Physical (also known as mineral) sunscreens use the following: Titanium Dioxide (Tio2) and Zinc Oxide (ZnO) or a combination of the two as their actives.
(Common brands are Skinceuticals Ultimate UV, Sofina, Shiseido, Clarins UV Plus)

There are two types of chemical sunscreen.
The older kind mainly use Avobenzone, octisalate, Oxybenzone, Octyl Methoxycinnamate or a mix of these as their main actives. These work by absorbing the rays, but they get ‘used up’ doing this which is why you need to reapply.. (These are the kind of chemical SS which were approved by the FDA for sale in the USA until this month so if you’re from the US these are the kind available in the shops.).
(Common brands: Neutrogena dry touch, ?????????? don’t know actually)

The newer kind of chemical SS, often referred to as Euro or high PPD (see below) sunscreens, use Mexoryl or Tinosorb as their main actives. These absorb the rays but do not get ‘used up’ or stop working and have much greater UVA protection than any previous SS. (These are referred to as Euro SS because they’ve been available in Europe (and Asia) for many years, but not approved by the FDA for sale in the US until this month.)
(Common brands are LaRochePosay Anthelios XL , Avene Extra High Protection, Vichy Capital Soleil, Bioderma)

I’ve heard physical sunscreens are better. Is this true?
There are lots of websites which say this, but they seem to be referring to the older generation of chemical sunscreens. In fact they never say, but their assumption seems to be that all SS chemical screens are the same, which is not true. The older chemical SS have problems with photostability, which possibly leads to the production of free radicals as they break down and some tests show the skin on the face absorbs chemicals like Avobenzone into the bloodstream. Physical screens on the other hand remain inert and do not seem to be absorbed much. But Euro sunscreens are stable and are designed not to absorb, though some contain oestrogenic ingredients.

So, which is the best kind of sunscreen?
Mineral sunscreens protect best at the UVB end of the spectrum. UVB is primarily responsible for burning. The protection tails off badly at the more aging, UVA part of the spectrum, but they have a long safety record, seem kinder for sensitive skin as they deflect rather than absorb, and can be made into quite light and elegant formulations. Although some warm-toned people still find even the most ‘invisible’ leave a slight white cast. However they only ever achieve a PPD of 8-10 at best for UVA protection.

Earlier chemical SS are again better at UVB than UVA protection, achieving a PPD of 15 max in the latest products. You have to keep reapplying and then there are fears over absorption and photostablity.

Euro SS give the greatest UVA protection, which seems to start at around PPD20 and can go as high as 40, but they are thick and sticky to use, though improving.

(I would like to show some charts here, but I’d need to get permission first)

The choice is yours!

Are chemical sunscreens bad for you?
Earlier screens may be because of photostability and absorption issues, see above. Euro SS are designed as far as possible not to absorb, though some do contain oestrogenic ingredients.

What does photostable mean?
It means that the chemicals are not broken down by UV radiation. Earlier SS chemicals need stablising ingredients to achieve this.

Does UV radiation permeate glass?
Glass cuts out very little UVA radiation so some people either get their windows tinted or wear ss indoors. A little UVB in high UV index areas can also get through so you might burn if you go for a long car drive.

How much SS do I need to apply?
Most testing is done using half a teaspoonful on bare skin. Considering how cosmetically inelegant this is most of us would probably only do it for really high UV situations such as the beach or sports.

What SPF should I use?
As you can see above most of use don’t use nearly enough product to achieve the level indicated so the higher the better to allow for lighter use. I think most people would advise SPF 30 or more especially if you are using sun sensitizing skincare such as exfoliants or retinoids.
SPF (sun protection factor) is only a measure of UVB protection. You also need to check the UVA protection level. The best way to gauge this is by finding out the PPD (see next question).

What does PPD mean?
PPD means Persistant Pigment Darkening and it's a measure of the UVA protection. SPF is only a measure of the UVB protection.

Manufacturers' claims on the bottles are mostly rather vague about the UVA protection. PPD is our way of seeing through manufacturers claims. These days most claim 'broad spectrum' protection, but how broad is broad? The mineral screens, such as Shiseido or Sofina are usually only 8PPD, whereas the Euro screens such as Anthelios Fluide Extreme are as high as 28PPD (or more) - so you can see a massive difference for the same 'broad spectrum' advertising claims. (I wrote this on another site. I'm assuming it's my copyright)

For UVA protection there is also the Japanese PA rating, but the highest, PA+++ , only seems to equate to PPD8 so it’s out of date and not so useful. In the UK there is the Boots star rating system of up to 5 stars, but again it’s more vague than PPD. You can easily find the PPDs online if you do a search or check main brands on this page at MUA http://makeupalley.com/user/notepad/sunscreens

Do I need to use SS all year round?
A hotly debated issue. Some people claim UVA levels are high all year round, others claim UVA follows the same line as UVB so it is negligible in the winter months if you live in the northern hemisphere.

Do I need to reapply?
You shouldn’t need to re-apply physical SS, besides you can usually see if it is still on your face.
Older chemical SS need to be reapplied every 1.5 – 2 hours because they get used up.
Euro SS do not need to be reapplied unless you sweat them off or they’re displaced by sebum on your face.

Do I need to wait after applying?
Not for mineral/physical ss nor for euro SS, but yes for earlier SS as they need to absorb a little to function so about a half hour wait.

Can I use make-up or powder over my SS
You need to be careful about what your makeup contains as you could degrade the chemicals in your sunscreen.
Generally speaking you can top physical screens with other mineral or silicone based make-up. You don’t want to use one with a chemical SPF because the minerals can break it down and create free radical damage.
Vice versa, if you’re using older chemical screens you do not want to use anything containing minerals again down to breaking down the chemicals.
With most euro sunscreens you cannot use mineral make-up nor anything containing minerals and it’s advisable not to use make-up with any kind of SPF containing other chemicals either. Avene seems to be the exception here because it is already combined with minerals it is OK to use mineral make-up over it. You can use starch based powders over them such as plain old corn-starch from the kitchen or Jurilique rose or lavender dust seems popular on EDS.

Can I layer my protection to get a higher SPF
No, it doesn’t add to your protection and may, as indicated above, by mixing different types of protection degrade the chemicals.

I don't want to use SS chemicals. Can I use natural oils?
Some natural oils such as Buckwheat oil (I have no idea please fill me in natural oil users) are shown to have an SPF of around factor 4 (I don't know about the PPD). There are also a lot of reports on the web about Rasberry seed oil having high (SPF 30) broad spectrum protection, but after investigating it seems that there was no research into this and it's just based on either a misunderstanding of the research or bad reporting. On the other hand there is anecdotal evidence from EDSers that this oil protects well from burning and tanning in practice.

Can I use moisturizer under my SS
That should be fine (as long as it doesn’t contain SPF ingredients) with both physical screens and euro screens as they are designed to sit on top of the skin. Earlier chemical screens need to absorb so it might interfere with their functioning.

Can I use my moisturizer with SPF instead of SS?
These are usually too lightly applied to be protective enough and the PPD (UVA protection) can be very low.

Can I use mineral makeup in place of sunscreen?
Not unless you use an awful lot of it. To achieve SPF 15 you need at least a quarter of a teaspoon in one sitting.

I’ve heard Vitamin C protects against UV. Can I use that instead of SS?
Vitamin C is one of the most ‘photo-protective’ anti-oxidants, but it works differently to SS. The Vit C needs to be absorbed into the skin and become part of the skin matrix. It then acts to neutralize the particular kind of free radicals generated by UV radiation. It won’t stop you burning or tanning, but might mop up the damage after that. Most people use this as a second level of protection to mop up after whatever radiation their SS fails to screen out.. Although some people claim you can boost your SPF to 8 or more by using topical anti-oxidants and supplements.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:55 am

List of physical sunblocks (contributed by Sormuimui)

Shiseido Anessa Mild Sunscreen SPF 43 PA+++
Clarins UV Plus SPF 40
DDF Organic Sunscreen SPF 30
Badger Sunscreen (the Sensitive skin/Baby one) - I'm not as sure about this one but another member told me about it so maybe she can confirm
Clarins Sun Care Cream Very High Protection For Children SPF 30
Skinceuticals Ultimate Physical Sunscreen SPF 30

Some sunscreens with chemical filters that may be misleading as organic/physical sunscreens:
Yonka Sun Cream - has SPF 30 but it does have OCM
Jurlique - both the Sun Care Cream and Sun Care Lotion (although I do quite like the Sun Care Cream for my body)
Shiseido Anessa or Shiseido SPF 55/50 (in US/Canada)
Sofina (not sure about the uv cut milks SPF 50 though since no one on EDS has mentioned the ingredients for this one)
Sunkiller

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:57 am

Topical Vitamin E (contributed by Safire and Manslayerliz)

I don't have a great deal of knowledge regarding Vitamin E, so here is a tiny little summary...

Topical vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol or tocopherol acetate) has a wide variety of skin benefits. It is used to treat and reduce many skin conditions or disorders, such as decreasing the effects of psoriasis, to help in the reduction of scaring from wounds, to help reduce the appearance of stretch marks on the skin and to help reduce dryness, fine lines and wrinkles...just to name a few!

Vitamin E is an antioxidant. It can help prevent free radical damage. Based on the observation that skin damage caused by the sun and other environmental agents are induced by free radicals, there is the possibility that vitamin E may be effective in preventing & reducing skin damage cuased by environmental exposure.

Overall vitamin E is a highly nourishing vitamin that promotes good healthy skin....this is all I know! Anxious

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:58 am

Oil Cleansing Method (OCM) (contributed by Safire)

OCM is a method of cleansing and moisturizing the face with a mixture of Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Castor Oil (or another suitable carrier oil or "drawing oil") and a select blend of essential oils, which are high in anti-oxidants and moisturising ingredients. The drawing oils draw the dirt and oil from the pores helping to prevent breakouts/blemishes. The plant-based oils used in OCM can attach to oil based debris (such as skin's own natural sebum, make-up, heavy sunscreens & moisturisers) and then form an emulsion which can trap and remove this deris and dirt from the skin. This process is based on the concept that "oil dissolves oil". The OCM even removes oil based makeup such as mascara, without irritating or drying out the skin. The OCM allows the skin to be cleaned without disturbing its natural pH levels, stripping its healthy production of oil, or causing any excess blemishes, breakouts & acne...which is a common misconception of OCM.

OCM - How to:

The best way to use the OCM is by massaging a fairly generous amount of the oil into the face and neck areas using a gentle circular motion with fingertips, concentrating on areas with excess make-up or deris.

A clean warm wash cloth can then be placed over the face for a minute or so. This helps release any impurities from deep within your pores.

Finally rinse the face/neck area well forming a milky like emulsion, in order thoroughly trap & remove any remaining oil or residue from the skin. There should be no need to follow up with another form of cleanser after this process.

Your skin should now feel clean (not tight), smooth & soft Very Happy

(Thanks to my friend Tanya who is Beautician & Naturopath for giving me some advice regarding OCM Smile

)

Sun Oct 22, 2006 5:59 am

AHA, BHA, Retinol and their impact on skin thickness (contributed by Molly)

AHA's, BHA's and Retinol/Retinoids will all thin the dead upper layer of the skin (the stratum corneam) slightly, but the actions of Retinoids and Acids are quite different and Retinoids are not classed as AHAs.

Retinoids signal structural changes in the skin, whereas AHAs trigger repair through 'controlled' damage. Only if the AHAs are at high enough percentages though. I can't remember exactly without looking it up, but I think I'm right in saying that anything up to 10% glycolic will only give gentle resurfacing (ie, remove a little of the dead layer) whereas around 14% will damage and trigger repair including the production of more collagen.

Both AHAs (at the appropriate percentage) and Retinoids will in the end thin the dead layer a little, but make the skin in total thicker because of rebuilding/thickening of the epidermis.
Look at this piccie of the results of retinoid use, which shows that much more clearly.
http://www.makeupalley.com/account/pics.asp?id=279145&picture=395173

BHAs I'm not totally sure about, but as far as I know their main benefit is in working inside the pores, where they digest sebum so it's more of a cleansing action. I think this results in a little bit of resurfacing, but I don't think they are used in the same way as AHAs to trigger repair through damage.

Here's some more info on Retinoids
http://makeupalley.com/user/notepad/tetrakis/
which I think is great. (mtview posted it somewhere a while ago)

Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:02 am

Types of Water/ Water Processes (contributed by Amnis)

Heavy Water, also known as D2O or 2H2O, has had its hydrogen atoms replaced with deuterium (heavy hydrogen). It is resistant to evaporation and has a stronger bond with the skin than regular water so skin won’t dry out as fast or as deeply.

According to Jane Iredale, heavy water takes ten times the amount of energy to ionize compared to light water (regular water) making it more protective against UV rays. It also creates a plumping effect and is good for acne prone skin because it deactivates certain bacteria.

An internet source even said that heavy water can irritate the skin:
http://www.freedrinkingwater.com/water-education3/1-water-beautiful-skin.htm.
Eh?

Distilled water is boiled, evaporated and condensed to remove impurities and minerals.

Deionized Water has been purified from all other ions (to name a few: sodium, calcium, copper and chloride) with the exception of H3O and OH-. It may still contain organic compounds.

Purified Water is produced by taking water from any source such as well water, spring water, sea water or tap water and processing it through reverse osmosis or deionization. It then becomes similar to distilled water.

Reverse Osmosis- In this purifying process, high pressure forces water through a semi-permeable membrane through which only pure water molecules can fit. The membrane restrains the flow of microorganisms, organic matter and inorganic matter thus allowing only pure water to pass through.

Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:03 am

Managing the Side Effects of Accutane (contributed by karmicarchitect)

Dry skin: Remember, moisturizing requires moisture plus something to hold it in, so look for products with humectants (NaPCA, glycerine, hyaluronate) and water; using one ingredient without the other can exacerbate the problem.

Dry Lips:
1.) Moisten a cloth or paper towel with luke warm water. Press the cloth into your lips for 5 seconds or more.
2.) Apply an occlusive balm (such as Aquaphor).

Dry/dehydrated Mucous Membranes --

Ear/Nose/Throat:
(Your nose can become very dry and bleed while on Accutane.)
Using a humidifier is helpful but not always practical. If you don't have access to a humidifier, try this trick: pour some hot water into a cup and pour it back out. Place the cup over your ear. This is especially helpful on airplanes.

Dry Mouth: Drink water (obviously). Biotene products (special mouthwashes and gum with saliva-producing enzymes) are helpful, too.

And of course, wear sunscreen

(Disclaimer: I'm not a doctor and I don't play one on TV. I'm just a girl who has been on 5 courses of Accutane.)

Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:06 am

Facial Toner (contributed by Amnis)

A toner can be used following cleansing and before applying moisturizers or treatments to your skin. It also can be used after applying makeup, especially mineral, to “set” it as well as a mid-day refresher.

Benefits of a toner:
-It can help your skin absorb the beneficial ingredients of your treatments.
-Balances the pH of your skin after cleansing.
-Helps to draw moisture to your skin and hydrate it.
-Tightens your pores w/out making your skin feel tight and uncomfortable.

How to use it
You can use a toner either by applying it with a cotton pad or by spritzing it onto your skin. (After cleansing, it helps to remove any residue or lingering dirt and/or oil from your skin.)

Do I need to use a toner?
I suppose you could think of it as another opportunity to add beneficial ingredients to your skin. Some people find that using a toner doesn’t make a difference while others can’t live with out it. Personally, I think it prevents my face from suffering from surface hydration.

Difference between a toner and an astringent
An astringent is usually used to treat acne or control oil and usually contains alcohol. It can be used with a cotton pad and, similarly to toner, it helps to remove any residue or lingering dirt and/or oil from your skin after cleansing. Note that alcohol can be drying to the skin.

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