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Sun Dec 24, 2006 9:20 pm |
I'm currently using PTR's 10% glycolic/2%BHA gel (on my t zone only cos I'm hypersensitive) - very good results, but I'm running out and wondering about the other types of acids. My clogged pores and blackheads/whiteheads are gone, but the fading of dark spots from old pimples is pretty minimal and slow. Wondering whether there are other options or if I should stay with what I'm using since I'm getting good results for congestion. Was considering the Mama lotion but realised the seaweed extract in it would break me out. Can anyone explain mandelic or any other options to me? |
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Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:18 pm |
i think they are similar but just come different sources, glycolic acid from sugar cane and mandelic acid from bitter almonds. They say mandelic acid is naturally anti-bacterial so it could be better for acne. |
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Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:44 pm |
Mandelic acid has a larger molecule size than the glycolic and is for this reason supposed to be less irritating. To some degree it also works like a BHA in that it can exfoliate inside the pores and not just on the surface like typical AHAs. I too have heard what hendricks mentioned about mandelic acid being anti-bacterial. You may want to do a forum search on mandelic acid since I think I read something about it helping with pigmentation issues.
Since you are hypersensitive you should approach mandelic acid with caution. My very sensitive skin was unable to tolerate it and I ended up breaking out horribly from the skin barrier damage that resulted from a modest mandelic acid program (10% Skincarecentral Mandelic Acid 3X a week). Also, keep in mind that the pH of most of the mandelic acid products is usually pretty low compared to glycolic acid where you can easily find products with a wide range of pHs. These low pHs can make the mandelic acid "stronger" than some of the higher pH glycolic acid products even though mandelic is considered to be a "gentler acid". |
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Tue Dec 26, 2006 12:51 pm |
Both are AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)- so are "mainly" surface exfoliates.
BHA, is Beta Hydroxy Acid, it is more of an inner pore wall exfoliate. Which means it reachs into the pore better then the AHAs.
BHA also can pass through skin oils, on skin surface and within the pores. Making this better suited for oily skin. It is less irritating then any of the AHA acids.
Glycolic acid is the most irritating of the AHA acids. It cannot exfoliate inside the pore, nor does it work through oils at all. This can limit penitration, so skin should be clean and oil free before use.
Mandelic acid, also an AHA, but it is better able to penitrate skin oils then Glycolic. It can also exfoliate some insde the pore linning, though not quite as well as BHA, I believe. It is also less irritating then Glycolic. This makes it better for oily skin.
Depending on the formula, some of the Mandelic products can be sticky and leave a film on the skin. Which many do not like. This can be especially bothersome to acne prone skintypes.
For skin congestion, do continue to use a well formulated BHA. The BHA exfoliates the inner pore wall, removing dead skin cells and oil congestion on inner pore walls.
And the additional AHA is a good step also, as it can help remove dead surface skin cells which can close up pore surface. (BHA can't do that as well)
I personally like Lactic AHA better then Glycolic or mandelic acid. I have used all three. Lactic is also milder then glycolic, and also has some ability to penitrate skin oils a bit. (not as well as BHA) It seemed milder then mandelic for me also.
I find for oily congested skin, with enlarged pores, I like the AHA/BHA blend fromwww.ifeelprettyproducts.com under exfoliants.
I personally go with the stronger 10% Lactic AHA/5% BHA. But this is a low pH formula, making is a stronger one then many acids on the market with a higher pH. So to strong for those starting out, or those with very sensitive skin. But they also have a lower strength beginner level product. 5/2% I think. This is better for sensitive skin.
I am a longtime acid user though, and find it works excelently keeping my enlarged pores clear, and smaller.
I have used the lower and higher strenghth for me, the higher strength is better for my personal needs. Especially in humid summer. In winter my skin is dryer, so I use it every other day. In summer I use it daily.
But many people still find every other day, or every third day is more then enough, depending on their skin needs. |
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