Creating a smokey eye. Has anyone used this technique?
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

free skin care · Mon Jan 08, 2007 10:36 pm

Saw this:
http://beautynews.blogspot.com/2005/11/makeup-question-of-day.html

It seems so foreign to me but it sounds like you take a straight-edged eye shadow brush and bascially brush eyeshadow from lash line towards your brows, holding the edge parallel to your lashes.

anyone try this? Am I reading this correctly? For the record, it did seem to work.

=== quoted from the website ===

Now trick of the trade. Are you ready? Listen carefully. Here's the trick. You need the right brush. Really.
(photo of straight edge eye liner brush - like the one recommended for MAC eyeliners).

You take the flat end of the brush, and rub the side of the bristles into your soft brown shadow. Then hold the flat edge of the brush against your lashes. You're almost holding the brush vertically, so the handle is up and the flat edge of the bristles line up against the top lashes. And in one sweep, from lashes up, apply your brown shade up to the crease.

Need more? Do it again, but don't forget. It's always from the lashes up. Hit anywhere else and you'll get the case of the smudgies. You know, color that just won't blend right and looks streaky. It's the technique, not the brush.

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 12:50 am

I think it's called tightlining which emphasizes the lashline and gives the illusion of a thicker lash base.

I've been doing it for the last few months and loved it. It's very natural looking and made my lashes "looked" longer Smile

Here's a link with more details on this technique which definitely has helped me:
http://www.emakemeup.com/en2/flowerreport/view_review.php?sid=1cc421c71c6a68898e364ab5a&reviewid=6999&vr=1

HTH

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 1:32 am

I don't think the technique described is tightlining. Tightlining is applying color to the lashline to make it look fuller and darker.

If I understand this correctly, this technique has you hold the liner brush at the lashline as if you were about to tightline, but instead of pressing it into your lashline and wiggling the brush to deposit all the color there, you sweep or flick the brush up from the lashline, up the lid and into the crease. So the technique is applying the color in a vertical motion from lash to crease rather than the normal, horizontal sweep across the lid that most people do

I have never heard of this technique. I might try it but it seems a little tricky.

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 6:58 am

Interesting, but sounds like alot of blending is involved since you have to do it a few times to cover the entire eyelid?

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 7:30 am

I asked a Clarins counter lady once at Mall and she taught me how to do it. I did on my sister and it was really good. So, give a try in counter rather than learn the theory...

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 10:30 am

I love this technique. It really does make your lashes look fuller. It is sort of an expansion of tightlining. I tightline at the base of my lashes, above & below my lashline, then I do your technique where I hold the brush vertically & sweep upward, emphasizing the outer corner more. But, instead of using the flat eyeliner brush I used for tightlining, I use a brush that's still flat & fairly stiff, but just I little more fluffy b/c it's easier to blend. Then I tightline again to make sure I have a bolder lashline. My mu artist used this technique on my wedding day.

free skin care · Tue Jan 09, 2007 11:27 am

leidon wrote:

I love this technique. It really does make your lashes look fuller. It is sort of an expansion of tightlining. I tightline at the base of my lashes, above & below my lashline, then I do your technique where I hold the brush vertically & sweep upward, emphasizing the outer corner more. But, instead of using the flat eyeliner brush I used for tightlining, I use a brush that's still flat & fairly stiff, but just I little more fluffy b/c it's easier to blend. Then I tightline again to make sure I have a bolder lashline. My mu artist used this technique on my wedding day.

Leidon - are you smudging the tightline and making it fuller or are you applying a different eyeshadow color?

With this technique - they talk about using a brown shadow to cover most of the eyelid. Then using black eyeliner.

I think I'll try your method with a different brush. It did work ... but takes some finesse.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:41 am

Yes! I attended a Laura Mercier master class about 18 months ago (which was an absolute hoot for probably all the wrong reasons!) and the artist used this technique on me. It made quite a bit of difference to the end result and I can now confidently go 'smokey-eyed' without looking like one of the undead. Also, it was done in conjunction with the eyeliner (cake, mixed with water) applied by square-edged, slim brush to the underside of the upper lashes, which I believe is (as others are saying in this thread) the 'tightlining' being referred to. I think one of the key differences between the Laura Mercier instruction and my naive earlier fumblings was that they recommended going for a super-dark lid colour, but blending carefully, rather than the mid-colour I'd been using too much of.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:57 am

ejthomas wrote:

Yes! I attended a Laura Mercier master class about 18 months ago (which was an absolute hoot for probably all the wrong reasons!) and the artist used this technique on me. It made quite a bit of difference to the end result and I can now confidently go 'smokey-eyed' without looking like one of the undead. Also, it was done in conjunction with the eyeliner (cake, mixed with water) applied by square-edged, slim brush to the underside of the upper lashes, which I believe is (as others are saying in this thread) the 'tightlining' being referred to. I think one of the key differences between the Laura Mercier instruction and my naive earlier fumblings was that they recommended going for a super-dark lid colour, but blending carefully, rather than the mid-colour I'd been using too much of.

ooooooo ... any further tips would be MUCH appreciated! I have problems blending. Many times it seems the colors are just stuck and no brush will blend the edges.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:19 pm

Rjez wrote:

leidon wrote:

I love this technique. It really does make your lashes look fuller. It is sort of an expansion of tightlining. I tightline at the base of my lashes, above & below my lashline, then I do your technique where I hold the brush vertically & sweep upward, emphasizing the outer corner more. But, instead of using the flat eyeliner brush I used for tightlining, I use a brush that's still flat & fairly stiff, but just I little more fluffy b/c it's easier to blend. Then I tightline again to make sure I have a bolder lashline. My mu artist used this technique on my wedding day.

Leidon - are you smudging the tightline and making it fuller or are you applying a different eyeshadow color?

With this technique - they talk about using a brown shadow to cover most of the eyelid. Then using black eyeliner.

I think I'll try your method with a different brush. It did work ... but takes some finesse.

There are different variations of the smokey eye. You could do it with brown shadow & then smoke with the black liner. I think that a soft liner always looks better than a harsh one. I've used this variation for a more natural smokey. For an even more natural smokey, you could ditch smoking the liner out. Smashbox has a smokey eye kit, as well as Mally http://www.qvc.com/qic/qvcapp.aspx/app.detail, which makes it pretty much goof proof. Here are directions: http://www.qvc.com/hb/hb_a57057_popup.html?tmp=pd&cont=info2 & here's a video demo http://www.qvc.com/video/video.html?page=hb/mally&cp=classF809&tmp=P2&cont=9&cm_re=PAGE-_-PROMOTIONS-_-BANNER:WATCHANDLEARN

But, when I want to do the bold smokey eye w/nude lips, I'll use just the base shadow, that way the "smokiness" really stands out. I use a cake liner & contact solution/visine to tightline, & when it's still moist I'll blend it out w/the softer brush. Of course that smudges the liner at the base, so I go back & tighline once more. My mu artist used the same flat liner brush for lining & smoking, but I've found that I'm just not as skilled & can't get the proper fading/blending, plus it takes me alot longer. The fluffier flat brush helps immensely in capturing the look.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 2:34 pm

if I use any kind of black eye makeup around my eye I look like a raccoon. I try to stay away from mascare and eyeliner. Wish I could use it though,.....as good as a makup artist though.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 3:17 pm

I work for MAC and we get asked a million times a day for the "smokey eye". I have known that Laura Mercier trick for years and it makes a HUGE difference with the smokey eye look. It is extremely important to get the base of the lash line on the top as dark as possible otherwise your smokey eye will look patchy and awful. I always use this trick on everyone even those ladies who don't like eyeliner because done right it makes the lash line fuller and you can hide the eyeliner so it is not visible if you want to. I usually get the customer to look down and wiggle it into the base of the lashes underneath top lashes then I will get them to close or look down and I will lift up their lid so I can get right into the base of top of the lashes. I find this works dramatically on people who have grey, blonde or light lashes. Then they don't get that awful two-tone thing happening when they put on their mascara. I usually use our Technakohl in Graphblack or Brown Border.
That brush that Elke Von Freudenberg uses looks similar to our 212 brush. I always use my 252 to apply the dark lid color. I guess the 212 would be good to get into the lashline. I usually use our 219 pencil brush to make the look super smokey. It works especially well for the dark shadow under the eye and around the whole eye. It is my fav smoky brush. I used to use the 212 for underneath but now I seem to favor the 219 but I guess I could use them together. We have sooooo many brushes sometimes I forget I forget to use them.

One thing we do at our counter which I find EXTREMELY important for the smokey eye is to do the eye shadow before you do the foundation. Dark shadows always seem to fall and it helps to clean up under the eye before you apply the foundation to give a really professional look.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:39 pm

I do the smokey eye look because I have been advised that my eyes really stand out. My make-up artist has fun doing this look on me. I am not at explaining how to apply it or what tools you should be using.
Sorry I can't help with that.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:52 pm

Thanks Leidon and misskatblack ... looks like I should set aside some extra time tomorrow morning to play.

BTW - I noticed today that my half-assed double eye lid creases were more pronouced - which is really throwing off my usual eye makeup. I usually apply color and blend as if I have no crease.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 9:55 pm

I saw a picture of you and I think you do. My make-up artist said that it is possable to emphasize the crease.

free skin care · Wed Jan 10, 2007 10:05 pm

Skincare wrote:

I saw a picture of you and I think you do. My make-up artist said that it is possable to emphasize the crease.

I wish I knew a good makeup artist. Actually, there is a phenomenal artist who specializes in Asian faces but she doesn't teach lessons. I talked to her 8 years ago and last year she launched her own makeup (Taylor Pham cosmetics) and was one of the Allure guest beauty experts.

I'm not used to my disappearing/appearing eyelid crease!

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:16 am

Asian eyes are the easiest and my favorite to do the smokey eye look on. I will find the diagram from my PKM (MAC - Product Knowledge Manual) and describe it tomorrow. I gotta go to bed. I got work early tomorrow.

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:13 am

I find the directions above a tad confusing. But the eye photo shown looks beautiful.

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 8:49 am

misskatblack wrote:

Asian eyes are the easiest and my favorite to do the smokey eye look on. I will find the diagram from my PKM (MAC - Product Knowledge Manual) and describe it tomorrow. I gotta go to bed. I got work early tomorrow.

Is it? I can't do my eyes for the life of me. I'm not that good with makeup to begin with something that requires such technique is hard for me to create.

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 10:57 am

ariesxtreme wrote:

misskatblack wrote:

Asian eyes are the easiest and my favorite to do the smokey eye look on. I will find the diagram from my PKM (MAC - Product Knowledge Manual) and describe it tomorrow. I gotta go to bed. I got work early tomorrow.

Is it? I can't do my eyes for the life of me. I'm not that good with makeup to begin with something that requires such technique is hard for me to create.

I wasn't that great to begin with either, but my m/u obession started in high school & so after years of trial & error I've finally got the technique down. I can do my entire face in about 10 minutes w/o a mirror. I didn't start doing the smokey eye until just before my wedding, in college, when I was "interviewing" different mu artists for my wedding day makeup. Most of them did the smokey eye on me b/c it really accentuated the shape of my eye. BUt, I don't do it as severe as Pam Anderson does her smokey. Before that I always did the typical: neutral base shadow, darker in the crease & outer lid, medium highliter shade just above the crease & highlighter at the brow bone & inside corners of the eye. I'm asian & the smokey eye technique really accentuated the shape of my eyes, made my eyes look bigger & my lashes appeared thicker. You know us asian girls with the problem of lackluster lashes (pre JM,revitalash & carekate that is), so this technique really helped. It's worth getting the technique down, as it really does do wonders in accentuating our look.

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 1:56 pm

it doesn't seem to work with creme eyeliner... but then again, why would it? i will try powder next time I get the urge to wear a smoky eye... thanks for the tip!

--avalange

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:01 pm

leidon wrote:

ariesxtreme wrote:

misskatblack wrote:

Asian eyes are the easiest and my favorite to do the smokey eye look on. I will find the diagram from my PKM (MAC - Product Knowledge Manual) and describe it tomorrow. I gotta go to bed. I got work early tomorrow.

Is it? I can't do my eyes for the life of me. I'm not that good with makeup to begin with something that requires such technique is hard for me to create.

I wasn't that great to begin with either, but my m/u obession started in high school & so after years of trial & error I've finally got the technique down. I can do my entire face in about 10 minutes w/o a mirror. I didn't start doing the smokey eye until just before my wedding, in college, when I was "interviewing" different mu artists for my wedding day makeup. Most of them did the smokey eye on me b/c it really accentuated the shape of my eye. BUt, I don't do it as severe as Pam Anderson does her smokey. Before that I always did the typical: neutral base shadow, darker in the crease & outer lid, medium highliter shade just above the crease & highlighter at the brow bone & inside corners of the eye. I'm asian & the smokey eye technique really accentuated the shape of my eyes, made my eyes look bigger & my lashes appeared thicker. You know us asian girls with the problem of lackluster lashes (pre JM,revitalash & carekate that is), so this technique really helped. It's worth getting the technique down, as it really does do wonders in accentuating our look.

I'm so jealous! I wish I knew how to master this technique. I always have to run to MAC to have my makeup done if I go out for something special, it's such a pain. I never really wore makeup at all, not til after college so it's only been the last 2 years that I've actually been experimenting with makeup if that so I'm still a rookie when it comes to makeup techniques and so forth.

free skin care · Thu Jan 11, 2007 2:15 pm

Rjez et al,

thanks for the vertical sweep technique...tried it today with my smashbox palette that has the flat, hard brush and it was lovely. I am looking for good shadows to use for smokey eyes in the evening (texture rather than colours) Is MAC the best in your opinion? I love MAC too.

free skin care · Sat Jan 13, 2007 2:37 am

Hey everyone,
This is the description from my product book. The description of the eye-shadow for shallow/smooth (or asian) eyes as is follows:
Shallow/Smooth
"The eyelid looks quite small in comparison to the eyelid and brow areas. To make the eye look more classically proportioned, begin by shading the eyelid with medium to dark colors while highlighting the browbone with lighter colors or reflective textures. The area around the eye can also be shaded with dark to medium colours to create a more "smoky" effect. Eyeliner can also be helpful in softly shaping or dramically defining the eye."

The pic of the eye accompanying the description looks as if the eye is completely kohl rimmed with a a tracing of dark shadow completely around the eye with little more weight on the outer edges or corners of the eye.
Usually when I do a shallow/smooth lid smoky eye I will do it differently to when I do eyes with more pronounced creases. With a shallow/smooth lid I do as above but I graduate the color on the lid as if it is a cat's eye shaped rainbow with the darkest color at the base then a medium color to blend thru to the browbone highlight, which is the lightest color, I NEVER draw a crease. Always remember with shadow dark and matte shadows make areas recede and light and reflective (sparkly, shiney) shadows make areas come forward. This is why with shallow/smooth lids you put darker colors on the lid as it makes this area recede or draw back and in doing so creates shading. If you still find this confusing, I suggest making an appointment at your MAC counter and get them to show you how to do it.
For eyes with creases we often use a dark or matte color in the crease, for the lid we have the options of pretty much anything (light or sparkly to bring lid forward or out) dark or matte to make the area recede.
For a dark smokey eye for these type of eyes (with crease) we usually put a very dark color on the lid in a half circle. A lighter shimmery brow color on the brow bone. Then I like to use a medium color thru the crease to blend them together then I kohl rim the eye and tightline it with plenty of mascara. I always use a smudging brush to shade the shadow around the eye and for a smokey look I always draw the shadow over the kohl pencil under the eye. A must with this look is to define the eyebrows and use a pink base concealer (MAC NWs) under eye to cancel any blue (darkness) under the eye. But that's just what I find works. No means the definitive answer.
If you have an extremely deep crease I would recommend putting a lighter medium color through the crease and a darker one on the outer corner of the lid in a little blended circle but blend it more onto the lid than into the crease.
I have been playing around with my 212 brush doing the "tightlining" effect and still find I need to use a pencil also. Both together work nicely, the only drawback is my smoky eyes today and yesterday had toooo many steps!!! Looked awesome tho! Took far too long for the eyes! Good if you have no time constraints!!!

My Account Co-ordinator when I worked for Dior used to work for Laurier Mercier. She showed me the tightlining trick with a pencil.

Automatic Message

If this is your first visit to the EDS Forums please take the time to register. Registration is required for you to post on the forums. Registration will also give you the ability to track messages of interest, send private messages to other users, participate in Gift Certificates draws and enjoy automatic discounts for shopping at our online store. Registration is free and takes just a few seconds to complete.

Click Here to join our community.

If you are already a registered member on the forums, please login to gain full access to the site.