Vitamin C Serum - am confused?????
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free skin care · Mon Jun 06, 2005 5:37 pm

I have been reading with interest everything on the C Serums and on the recipe thread someone said that you have to use L'ascorbic acid instead of ascorbic acid so how come Cellex - C serum contains Ascorbic acid? Does this mean that it is inaffective?
Also another said that if water is added to the homemade serum then it reduces the potency of the L' Ascorbic acid, I noticed that the Skinceuticals Vit C Serum contains water as its most active ingredient!!!!!!
So is it just me that's confused - I am dying to crack on and make up a batch of serum, can anyone clear all this up hmm

free skin care · Mon Jun 06, 2005 7:43 pm

Calling L-ascorbic acid "ascorbic acid" is sloppiness on the mftr.'s side. It should clearly state what type of C is being used - not just use a generic term.

As for the water in the solution - L-ascorbic acid oxidizes somewhat quickly in the presence of oxygen. The oxygen in the water can destabilize the l-ascorbic acid, the solution will turn amber-colored/brown and become ineffective. However, if the l-ascorbic acid is encapsulated in silicone for instance, it is protected from contact with the oxygen in the water so it will not oxidize. Unfortunately, the silicone also makes your skin's ability to uptake the C limited as well.

skinceuticals does use water in their formulas. It's a shame since there are plenty of formulas out there they could switch to that wouldn't use water. I think they do add tyrosine? to the water though which is supposed to slow down the oxidation process. You might want to PM abejita - she's a skinceuticals user and knows quite a bit about their formulas.

If you want to mix up fresh, carekate and others can help. You will need to mix it up at least once each 72 hours.

free skin care · Mon Jun 06, 2005 11:50 pm

The serum recipe that I used from smartskincare.com says that it will keep for about 2 weeks if refrigerated. Smile

T x

Tue Jun 07, 2005 12:50 am

I too have been thinking about the stability issues of vitamin C serums. My first and only purchase of a c serum [which I am still using] was from SkinCeuticals. It was a pale amber colour when opened and doesn't seemed to have darkened within the last 2 months, but it does contain water as a component. I notice the Cellex C does not. Does anyone know if the Vivier c serums contain water? The ingredients are not listed on EDS. Prior to buying the c serum I had been using the l'ascorbic acid powder from Philosophy which required mixing with a moisturizer on a daily basis to guarantee stability, but didn't really like the routine and obviously the concentrations would vary somewhat depending on the ratio of powder to mixer used.
Any recommendations from satisfied users of other brands would be much apreciated as I am due to place an order within the next couple of weeks.
Thanks in advance!

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 2:48 am

I found skinceuticals 20% to be very stable. It was almost colourless when I got it and was only a pale yellow after 3 months. I kept it in the fridge and transfered small amounts to a 5ml pipette bottle that I kept in the bathroom.

the 25% one from dianayvonne, professional solutions I think it is, looked promising and I sooooo wanted to love it due to the 30% HA, but within a month it had gone from yellow to brown Sad

...not using THAT again!

Cellularskin, I the other one I have tried and it is amazingly stable. I bought the first bottle for minime and 6 months later it was still colourless! This is what I now use and I have actually ...repurchased! Laughing

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:51 am

I have been using the Vivier 10 serum for about a month and it hasnt actually changed colour does that mean its not working?

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 3:51 am

I have been using the Vivier 10 serum for about a month and it hasnt actually changed colour does that mean its not working?

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 4:28 am

that's good lorrapaw! C changes colour as it oxidises. The quicker it changes the less stable it is. You can see what colour it goes by putting a drop on a white surface, I guess. it will go on clear, but after some time, it will oxidise and go yellow. I chucked the dianayvonne serum because it went from nearly colourless to yellow very quickly. You do not want to be putting oxidised C on your face!

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 5:09 am

Here's another thought - would I just be able to mix in L'Ascorbic Acid to my Dr Hauschka Normalising Day Oil of into a little Jojoba Oil?

Tue Jun 07, 2005 1:29 pm

rosebud wrote:

Here's another thought - would I just be able to mix in L'Ascorbic Acid to my Dr Hauschka Normalising Day Oil of into a little Jojoba Oil?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong. I thought that l-ascorbic acid is water not oil soluble.

free skin care · Tue Jun 07, 2005 8:20 pm

That's true. Additionally, the ph should be 3-3.5 to be effective. Who knows what ph you would end up with that combo?

free skin care · Wed Jun 08, 2005 3:37 am

yes, ascorbic acid is water soluble. It would just sit at the bottom of your oil base as a precipitate. the pH of the oil would be unaffected, as the ascorbic acid would be undissolved.

free skin care · Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:08 am

This thread is really freaking me out because I thought that Vit-C serum is supposed to be completely colorless and clear!! That's how my homemade serum looks using the recipe I posted in the DIY thread (which contains some H2O, BTW!)...in 3 weeks, or when it starts to turn yellow - whichever comes first, that's when I pour it out and make a fresh batch. Think

Fri Jun 10, 2005 6:23 am

can any one suggest where can i get Ascorbic Acid or Vit C crystals...I am from Pakistan...well they r not available from medical stores...are they...then i which fom...what will i tell them to give me...help me plz?

free skin care · Thu May 15, 2008 1:13 pm

Try using google seach engine to see if where you can buy them from anila.

free skin care · Tue May 20, 2008 9:37 pm

I ve been using skinceuticals and love it but I think I may give cellux a try as I will soon not be able to get skinceuticals online.

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