2008's top sunscreens?
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skin Care and Makeup Forum

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 10:33 am

Quoted fromwww.cosmeticsdatabase.com...

"Environmental Working Group's comprehensive sunscreen guide—including a list of 143 products that offer very good sun protection:"

http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/special/sunscreens2008/

Top 10 are:

1. Keys Soap Solar Rx Therapeutic Sunblock, SPF 30
2. Trukid Sunny Days Facestick Mineral Sunscreen UVA/UVB Broad Spectrum, SPF 30+
3. California Baby Sunblock Stick No Fragrance, SPF 30+
4. Badger Sunscreen, SPF 30
5. Marie Veronique Skin Therapy Sun Serum
6. Lavera Sunscreen Neutral, SPF 40
7. Vanicream Sunscreen, SPF 35
8. UV Natural Sunscreen, SPF 30+
9. Sun Science Sport Formula, SPF 30
10. Soleo Organics Sunscreen all natural Sunscreen, SPF 30+

What do you guys think? Lots of the brands listed are familiar and have been mentioned and recommended numerous times on the forum. I was considering the Keys Soap Solar Rx Therapeutic Sunblock, reviews seem positive, ingredients effective, is chemical free AND reasonably priced!...

http://www.keys-soap.com/solarrx.html

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 1:24 pm

I don't find the EWG to be a reliable source of anything.

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 2:43 pm

GirlieGirl wrote:

I don't find the EWG to be a reliable source of anything.

I agree.

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:24 pm

Oh dear.

Back to my search for a good physical sunscreen then Exclamation

Thanks for your comments!

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:47 pm

Nimue wrote:

GirlieGirl wrote:

I don't find the EWG to be a reliable source of anything.

I agree.

I read that article and was worried. I use Neutrogena helioplex a lot. I also use LRP and Bioderma and they are not reviewed.

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 3:49 pm

Nikita wrote:

Oh dear.

Back to my search for a good physical sunscreen then Exclamation

Thanks for your comments!

This sounds like me a couple of months ago! I was on my "great physical sunscreen search".

I've tried Mexitan. Badger, Dermalogica sensitive (tinted one), Epicuren, 302, and Devita for the body. I've been meaning to write a comparative review about all of them. When I'm feeling ambitious, maybe it'll happen. Out of all of these, I think that Devita's the best.

free skin care · Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:46 pm

Quote:

Oh dear.

Back to my search for a good physical sunscreen then

Thanks for your comments!

I wouldn't trust anything from EWG as well Nikita.

I hate seeing that list and how much they disapprove of "chemical" sunscreens, when in fact all sunscreen agents are actually chemicals..they just label them organic or inorganic. Its almost like scare tactics and their false information leads people to avoid some potentially great sunscreens that have the ability to improve peoples lives (ie sunscreens not on that list with higher UVA protection). They also don't review EU sunscreens like LRP, Bioderma, Nivea, Avene

For a physical sunscreen...I'm looking into the Bioderma Photoderm Mineral UVA 22! It uses TiO2 and ZnO but also has cell protecting ingredients mannitol, ectoin etc. I've ordered and will let you know you know how it goes. Also everyone seems to like Devita so thats probably a good choice and Blue Lizard has good brand of physical sunscreens that derms almost always recommend.

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:21 am

I don't trust the EWG site either. Them and lots of people think that products enter the blood stream. Not so because the molecules are too big.

Back to sunscreen. Physical blocks are popular but give a whitish cast to your skin. You have to take care to blend it in well.

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:40 am

What's EWG? Embarassed

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:46 am

Environmental Working Group.

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:58 am

Hmmm, is the Neutrogena with Helioplex a good one or not? Are there any drugstore brands considered good?

If I could just run to the store for it and avoid another wait for the mail order to arrive, that would be wonderful!

Thanks!

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 11:51 am

blesstd wrote:

Hmmm, is the Neutrogena with Helioplex a good one or not? Are there any drugstore brands considered good?

IME its an excellent choice.

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 8:54 pm

Just wondering if anyone has tried Solar Keys (the #1)? It claims to be "cosmetic" on its website, but I was wondering if anybody had actual experience with it? The EWG reviews (from readers) seem more positive than for some of the others, like UV Naturals, which apparently is super-greasy; I'm guessing the same is true for Kabana -- though I'd love to hear otherwise... Thanks!

free skin care · Sat Jul 05, 2008 10:40 pm

Thanks GirlieGirl! I've never heard of IME - is it sold in US stores?

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 4:17 am

Ocean14 wrote:

Quote:

Oh dear.

Back to my search for a good physical sunscreen then

Thanks for your comments!

I wouldn't trust anything from EWG as well Nikita.

I hate seeing that list and how much they disapprove of "chemical" sunscreens, when in fact all sunscreen agents are actually chemicals..they just label them organic or inorganic. Its almost like scare tactics and their false information leads people to avoid some potentially great sunscreens that have the ability to improve peoples lives (ie sunscreens not on that list with higher UVA protection). They also don't review EU sunscreens like LRP, Bioderma, Nivea, Avene

For a physical sunscreen...I'm looking into the Bioderma Photoderm Mineral UVA 22! It uses TiO2 and ZnO but also has cell protecting ingredients mannitol, ectoin etc. I've ordered and will let you know you know how it goes. Also everyone seems to like Devita so thats probably a good choice and Blue Lizard has good brand of physical sunscreens that derms almost always recommend.

Ocean, I`m looking forward to your review of Bioderma Photoderm Mineral PPD 22! Smile

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:38 am

I have been using Skinceuticals' sun screen, but they sell the products directly to customers now. It is hard to get discount, so I am looking for other brand of sun screen too.

Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:54 pm

KBlang: I have been using the Keys sunscreen for a few months now. I really like it and it seems to cover well, does not leave white cast and it's not greasy. At least on me it isn't and I'm fair with very sensitive skin. I ordered a lot of Keys products along with the sunscreen (Luminos, Eye Butter, Tortuga lotion and Foaming face Wash) and have been having very good success with them. Considering the bottle is on the small side I don't use it for the rest of my body. I have recently just started using Mexitan 30 for the rest of me. I'm a little confused though, b/c I applied liberally, it went on very easily...almost glided on. Did not leave a whitish cast. I was outside for a good 2hours or so in some pretty strong sun and I still got a bit of a burn which turned into a nice tan the next day but I thought it should have protected me from that. As well, when I went swimming this was when I noticed the milky residue on my skin and when it dried it flaked easy. I'm torn on this, is that what most physical sunscreens do? I don't have a problem with the Keys sunscreen on my face but I do want good protection all over. I have a problem with chemical sunscreens and have just recently figured out they're the reason why I looked like I had poison ivy from head to toe. Not attractive.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:44 pm

Thanks for your review of Keys Waterfordgirl. I know a few other members said that Mexitan did flake -- I haven't tried it myself. I'm using Devita right now, but I'm a little concerned about its staying power with the hot (read: sweaty) weather.

As for other possibilities, I've heard that UV Naturals and Soleo might not be good for the face because they're so balm-like, but I wonder if that might be good for body use? They may be quite thick, but I haven't read about them flaking... and at least UV Naturals is supposed to have quite the longevity even when swimming. Maybe something to look into? www.uvnatural.com HTH.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 7:57 pm

I have my own theories for why some of the physical suncreens flake, since a lot of them do and it's a big problem. I think it has do with whether they're coated or not and the relatively large particle sizes. I think a sunscreens with Z-Cote don't have these problems. I'm really confident in the protection that Z-Cote offers as well. I'm in the process of researching the protection that ZinClear (the nano sized zinc oxide sunscreen) offers...

Well, I'm not sure what difference coating makes. According to this source, Devita uses the uncoated Z-Cote. (There's are 2 version of Z-cote: coated and uncoated). There's one data point! Laughing

http://www.purebodysolutions.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Category_Code=De&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=DSCSBB

KBLang wrote:

Thanks for your review of Keys Waterfordgirl. I know a few other members said that Mexitan did flake -- I haven't tried it myself. I'm using Devita right now, but I'm a little concerned about its staying power with the hot (read: sweaty) weather.

As for other possibilities, I've heard that UV Naturals and Soleo might not be good for the face because they're so balm-like, but I wonder if that might be good for body use? They may be quite thick, but I haven't read about them flaking... and at least UV Naturals is supposed to have quite the longevity even when swimming. Maybe something to look into? www.uvnatural.com HTH.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:34 pm

Here's a source for the statement the Z-cote offers great protection:

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/9922017

It's a study testing the protection of Z-Cote specifically, and it's found effective on both UVA and UVB. That includes the long wave UVA up to 400 nm. It was also found to be totally safe and stable.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:50 pm

You can sometimes look on the ingredients to tell if your sunscreen has the uncoated z-cote or not. There are three versions (1 uncoated and 2 diff kinds of coated). Z-Cote, Z-Cote HP, Z-Cote Max. They differ in their solubilities in the sunscreen bases.

Z-Cote- uncoated
Z-Cote HP1- coated with triethoxycaprylylsilane
Z-Cote MAX- coated with dimethoxydiphenylsilane/triethoxycaprylylsilane crosspolymer
***can look on ingredients list and look for say triethyoxycaprylylsilane if the zinc oxide doesnt state: Z-cote HP1

So the reason for balling up could be the application of different bases that result in insolubility of the particle. For example, Z-Cote in say Devita...probably doesnt ball up bc Z-Cote is oil and water soluble. However Z-COTE HP1 and Z-COTE MAX are oil soluble and hydrophobic, hence if water is on the face during application the particles will actually precipitate ("ball up").

Just to clarify...micronized zinc oxide provides protection up to 380nm (technically 370 nm with the ingredient alone). So within the UVA I range but not the FULL UVA I range (not saying your wrong or anything Nimue just saying the detail of UVA protection)

All Z-COTE grades cover from 290 – 380 nm.
-Fromwww.basf.com

Size of particle makes difference in both range of UVB and UVA protection and in aesthetic look. Zinc-oxide for example will increase UVB efficacy at smaller sizes but decrease UVA efficacy. Increasing particle size will increase UVA I protection so can get up to full value but will decrease UVB protection...so there will be a trade-off. For aesthetics obviously the larger the particle size will have a "whitening" effect on the skin. Refractive index plays a role in the whitening. ZnO has smaller refractive index (basically scattering of light) than TiO2 so thats why ZnO is preferred over TiO2.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 9:55 pm

Quote:

I think it has do with whether they're coated or not and the relatively large particle sizes.

I didn't see this Nimue. I def agree with your reasoning, its prob differences in coating and particle size. I tried to explain my theory on the "balling up" with coating/uncoating above.

free skin care · Sun Jul 06, 2008 11:20 pm

Quote:

Hmmm, is the Neutrogena with Helioplex a good one or not? Are there any drugstore brands considered good?

If I could just run to the store for it and avoid another wait for the mail order to arrive, that would be wonderful!

Thanks!

Hey Blesstd,

Yes Neutrogena with Helioplex is def a great choice. There were two independent lab studies to determine the ppd of the Neutrogena Dry Touch Ultra Sheer spf 70 and it gave ppd 23.3 and ppd 26.6. Aveeno sunscreens have this same formula so will give around same ppd. Its photostable so won't degrade. And don't believe the "research" that says oxybenzone or any other chemical in the sunscreen is bad for skin or has "endocrine effects" bc it was proven false.

I also like Anthelios SX spf 15 moisturizer (ppd 15.8) just to have around for incidental sun exposure bc it doesnt have the sticky feel of sunscreen, can't really notice that I have it on. Its very moisturizing however.

free skin care · Mon Jul 07, 2008 5:41 pm

Well, according to the abstract on pubmed which I linked earlier in this thread, Z-Cote does protect against the full UVA I range up to 400 nm.

I followed the link you gave to basf, but that just gives me the company's home page...

Ocean14 wrote:

Just to clarify...micronized zinc oxide provides protection up to 380nm (technically 370 nm with the ingredient alone). So within the UVA I range but not the FULL UVA I range (not saying your wrong or anything Nimue just saying the detail of UVA protection)

All Z-COTE grades cover from 290 – 380 nm.
-Fromwww.basf.com

free skin care · Mon Jul 07, 2008 7:07 pm

Quote:

Well, according to the abstract on pubmed which I linked earlier in this thread, Z-Cote does protect against the full UVA I range up to 400 nm.

I followed the link you gave to basf, but that just gives me the company's home page...

Sorry for the confusion Nimue,

Here's the page that is fromwww.basf.com
Basf is the company that manufactures and produces z-cote...so the info is correct.

http://www.cosmetics.basf.de/pdf/Overview%20UV%20Absorber%20Portfolio_Performance%20Data%20and%20Regulatory%20Status.PDF

In this pdf the highest wavelength it protects is 370nm, but later in the site they say 380nm like I mentioned above. I've always heard micronized/z-cote zinc oxide was 380nm as well.

Here's where they state 380nm...on page 19

http://www.cosmetics.basf.de/pdf/statements/Technical%20Information/Cosmetic%20Ingredients/MEMC%20050103e_UV%20filters.pdf

The combination of zinc oxide with organic UV filters allows the formulation of
very effective broad-spectrum suncare products. Compared to titanium dioxide,
zinc oxide provides additional UVA protection. All Z-COTE grades cover from
290 – 380 nm.

The pubmed article you referenced was not stating that it protects all the way up to 400nm, they were stating that it protects in the UVA I range and then gave the wavelenth of UVA I (340nm - 400nm). It can be misleading, but they are allowed to state it that way bc it does attenuate in the UVA I just not up to 400nm.

For example here is what is stated about benzophenones, which we all know do not protect in the full range of UVA...

Quote:

Some of the Uvinul grades are typical UV-B absorbers, i. e. their absorption
maximum lies in the 280-320 nm band. Other Uvinul grades, particularly the
benzophenone derivatives, are broad-band filters, i. e. they absorb both in the
UV-A (320-400 nm) and the UV-B (280-320 nm) ranges. One filter absorbs in
the UV-A range. The metal oxides are micronized pigments with a broad UV
attenuation.

So them stating it like this is misleading bc in fact it doesn't protect up to 400nm, BUT it does protect a little in the UVA range so they are allowed to state it does and they give the wavelenth of UVA.

Here is an article that I actually found here at essentialdayspa that someone posted awhile back that states what I have been saying about zinc oxide...that it has the ability to protect up to 400nm but when micronized/smaller it becomes less effective in UVA I range. I bolded the relevant parts

Quote:

UVA SUNBLOCKERS PREVENT AGING:
the essential item in preventing skin aging is a good sunblock that protects in the UVA range

Without our being aware of it, nanotechnology is creeping into more facets of everyday life. Nanoparticles might even be lurking in the lotion you are rubbing on your face and body. Looking for efficient transdermal delivery systems has led many skin care manufacturers to turn to very tiny particles (a particle 50 microns or less in size is considered a nanoparticle), which are designed to penetrate deeper layers of the skin. Industry watchdogs such as Friends of the Earth, taking their cue from the highly respected United Kingdom’s Royal Society, have raised objections to the practice. We know little about their effects, but it is speculated that nanoparticles may be able to cross biological membranes and access cells, enter the bloodstream and perhaps even interact in unexpected ways with the body’s immune system. The physics of nanoparticles is quite different, so calling for a moratorium on their use, at least until we know more about them, seems reasonable.

However, there is one important area of anti-aging skin care that will have difficulty adopting the precautionary principle (if you don’t know what it does, don’t use it). We all know that most skin aging is caused by UV (ultraviolet) exposure, and many of us have heard the news that the longer UV A wavelengths (from 320 to 400 nm on the spectrum) are the aging rays, responsible for sun spots and wrinkles. If you think your SPF 45 sunscreen provides adequate protection against the aging rays look again—the SPF rating only refers to the shorter wavelength UV B rays and most chemical sunscreens protect in the UV A range only up to about 360 nm. The ingredients currently in use to provide full-spectrum protection are Avobenzone, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Avobenzone protects up to 400 nm but degrades after 30 minutes in the sun, and titanium dioxide protects up to only 360 nm. Zinc oxide is a good bet, as it protects up to 400 nm and beyond and is also anti-inflammatory. Unfortunately, the public has not gravitated to zinc oxide creams because they find them heavy, greasy and too white. The solution for many companies has been to use “micronized” or nano-sized particles of titanium dioxide and zinc oxide in order to give a transparent look to their product. FOE claims that these nanoparticles are photoactive, producing free radicals and possible DNA damage. There is one other caveat to add the mix, namely, that the smaller the particle, the less effective the protection, particularly in the UVA range.

All these revelations point to an industry that typically rushes to market in lieu of rushing to testing. Part of the problem lies in the fact that companies are beginning to use technologies sophisticated beyond their ability to develop adequate testing models. For example, the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) test currently in use to track UV A protection efficacy in sunscreen could be replaced by a much simpler quantitative test. Nanotechnology expert Dr. Jay L. Nadeau, professor of Bio-Medical Engineering at McGill University, suggests that "absorbance spectroscopy and fluorescence-based assays can also quantify UVA absorption."
In other words, nanoparticles may be instrumental in resolving issues around nanoparticle safety, which certainly makes for an elegant solution. Rather than depend on the skin care industry to provide the testing, it might make more sense to look to the nanotechnology community for answers.

If you would like more information about this topic, or to schedule an interview please use the following contact information:
Marie Veronique Nadeau 510-486-9792 marieveronique@m-vskintherapy.com
Dr. Jay L. Nadeau jay.nadeau@videotron.ca

Automatic Message

If this is your first visit to the EDS Forums please take the time to register. Registration is required for you to post on the forums. Registration will also give you the ability to track messages of interest, send private messages to other users, participate in Gift Certificates draws and enjoy automatic discounts for shopping at our online store. Registration is free and takes just a few seconds to complete.

Click Here to join our community.

If you are already a registered member on the forums, please login to gain full access to the site.