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For Vitamin C Serum DIYers
EDS Skin Care Forums Forum Index » Skincare Tools & Do-It-Yourself Skincare
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TanyaB
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 7:20 am      Reply with quote
Girls,

Few days ago I prepared new portion of Vit. C serum and added 1 drop of Bulgarian Rose Essential Oil.
It smells divine, but will Vitamin C be still effective?

TIA

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Thyckecutie
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 1:00 pm      Reply with quote
What did you use to make your Vit C serum?
TanyaB
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 2:23 pm      Reply with quote
Thyckecutie wrote:
What did you use to make your Vit C serum?


1/4 teaspoon ascorbic acid, 1 teaspoon water, 1 teaspoon glycerin. Mixing ascorbic acid in water until dissolved, then add glycerin.Voila! And the Vitamin C serum is ready.

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Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:51 pm      Reply with quote
Can I skip glycerin and use water and ascorbic acid only?
Kassy_A
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 5:59 pm      Reply with quote
pinkberry wrote:
Can I skip glycerin and use water and ascorbic acid only?


You can, but just make 1/2 ounce at a time and keep in the fridge. A good rule of thumb is this; the more water you use, the faster it will degrade.
TanyaB
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:08 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A,
what do you think about adding essential oil to the serum?

TIA

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Kassy_A
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Fri Aug 15, 2008 6:40 pm      Reply with quote
TanyaB wrote:
Kassy_A,
what do you think about adding essential oil to the serum?

TIA


I always add vitamin E oil to mine, which is a very good thing.. I haven't used essential oils yet though, but I don't suppose one drop would do any damage at all.

The main thing to keep in mind when making vitamin C serum, is to keep the PH below 3.5 If it goes above that it won't penetrate the skin.
TanyaB
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Sat Aug 16, 2008 4:31 am      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
The main thing to keep in mind when making vitamin C serum, is to keep the PH below 3.5 If it goes above that it won't penetrate the skin.


How I can find out PH balance?

TIA

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Kassy_A
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Sat Aug 16, 2008 11:46 am      Reply with quote
TanyaB wrote:
How I can find out PH balance?

TIA



I use these. Many other's are available.

http://www.herbalremedies.com/phtesstrip50.html
TanyaB
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Sat Aug 16, 2008 12:36 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
I use these. Many other's are available.

http://www.herbalremedies.com/phtesstrip50.html


Thanks, Kassy_A!

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Sun Aug 17, 2008 4:46 am      Reply with quote
my understanding is vit c in a serum base can be very unstable and rendered useless if not prepared correctly, even by cosmetics companies. A jan marini rep told me that JM guarantee's that there vit C serum is stable for 2 years and not all companies give that guarantee. for the DIY'ers here. how do you know the vit C serum you are making is effective and stable? i'm not trying to put anyone on the defensive but i've been reading the DIY recipe's for vit C serum (i would love to save money and make my own) but how does one make sure that its stable and effective?
TanyaB
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:09 am      Reply with quote
PinkLyfe wrote:
for the DIY'ers here. how do you know the vit C serum you are making is effective and stable?


If serum is yellowish color, that means Vitamin C is oxidised. I'm preparing fresh serum every week, keep it in dark bottle and in dark place. And always check the color.
As a side note, I used before Vitamin C+K serum by Vivier ($130 per bottle), which was yellowish. Always. After I learned about Vitamin C serum color, I started to use mine.
For more information I recommend you to search this forum or to read :

http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitcderiv.html

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Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:45 am      Reply with quote
If you're concerned with stability, you can use a derivative of vitamin C. They're proven to be much much more stable than l-ascorbic acid. Right npw I'm using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base. I also added a little vitamin E, so it's about 10% vitamin C and 2% vitamin E. It's not irritating like ascorbic acid can be and it's highly stable so I'm not worried about it going bad. In addition to all that, I also keep it in the fridge Smile

PinkLyfe wrote:
my understanding is vit c in a serum base can be very unstable and rendered useless if not prepared correctly, even by cosmetics companies. A jan marini rep told me that JM guarantee's that there vit C serum is stable for 2 years and not all companies give that guarantee. for the DIY'ers here. how do you know the vit C serum you are making is effective and stable? i'm not trying to put anyone on the defensive but i've been reading the DIY recipe's for vit C serum (i would love to save money and make my own) but how does one make sure that its stable and effective?

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TanyaB
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:10 am      Reply with quote
Numie,

Where did you buy "tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base"? I want it too Very Happy

TIA

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Kassy_A
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:19 am      Reply with quote
PinkLyfe wrote:
my understanding is vit c in a serum base can be very unstable and rendered useless if not prepared correctly, even by cosmetics companies. A jan marini rep told me that JM guarantee's that there vit C serum is stable for 2 years and not all companies give that guarantee. for the DIY'ers here. how do you know the vit C serum you are making is effective and stable? i'm not trying to put anyone on the defensive but i've been reading the DIY recipe's for vit C serum (i would love to save money and make my own) but how does one make sure that its stable and effective?


When you make it at home you have the luxury + affordability of making it in small batches frequently. Half an ounce will last roughly 1 month, and with the right ingredients will remain potent and effective. I've been making my own C serums for almost a year (also sending many to friends), and not even one has shown any sign of degrading! It's all about the ingredients, and keeping the PH low enough to benefit the skin.

Incorporating Vitamin E and a little SKB into your serum will not only make it more stable, but you will have a better quality + consistency of serum. Also keep in mind that the higher the water content, the faster it will degrade! The way you can tell if it has degraded is the change in color...If it turns yellow, it's degraded, in my humble opinion. (The company's that sell their $125. serum, would like you to believe otherwise). Personally, I just don't buy that!

Nimue wrote:
If you're concerned with stability, you can use a derivative of vitamin C. They're proven to be much much more stable than l-ascorbic acid. Right npw I'm using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base. I also added a little vitamin E, so it's about 10% vitamin C and 2% vitamin E. It's not irritating like ascorbic acid can be and it's highly stable so I'm not worried about it going bad. In addition to all that, I also keep it in the fridge


A comination of 10% L-Ascorbic Acid, 7% Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate + 1% Vitamin E in a silicone base makes for a C serum with a one two punch! Add a little ferulic acid to that, and you'll be off the charts my friend.. Laughing

I'm thinking that an "oil" only base *could* interfere with penetration. What exactly do you use for a base?

ETA: After re-reading my post, I have to apologize for coming across so enthusiastic.. Shock (It's seldom I am so impressed by results, and when it happens, I just can't help but shout it loud + clear...{think LightStim.. Idea Very Happy })

I'm certainly not the authority on formulating, but I'm happy to share whatever I can that has worked well for me.. Very Happy So this makes me 2 for 20 in the win column.. Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:24 am      Reply with quote
TanyaB wrote:
Numie,

Where did you buy "tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base"? I want it too Very Happy

TIA


Nimue bought hers at lotioncrafter.com...I bought some too, but haven't mixed it up yet. Thus is the same form of Vit C that is in 302 products, Remergent, etc.

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/Tetrahexyldecyl-Ascorbate-pr-16382.html

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TanyaB
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 11:08 am      Reply with quote
bethany wrote:
Nimue bought hers at lotioncrafter.com...I bought some too, but haven't mixed it up yet. Thus is the same form of Vit C that is in 302 products, Remergent, etc.

http://www.lotioncrafter.com/store/Tetrahexyldecyl-Ascorbate-pr-16382.html


Thanks Bethany,
Already ordered Very Happy
One question. In term of teaspoons - how many you should add this vitamin C into 1 teaspoon of water and 1 teaspoon of glycerin? Do I need glycerin at all?

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Sun Aug 17, 2008 12:25 pm      Reply with quote
I'm very interested in making my own Vit C serum.

KassyA, could you share exactly how you make yours? (i.e. measurements of each) Do you mix them all together or are there steps to follow?

Also, for these ingredients, where do I find it at? I live in the States - are there stores which may carry it or are the internet sites best?

I did come across Carekate's recipe - but now that others have experimented, I'm wondering if it's been enhanced further like Kassy did.

I also saw that Carekate used poly---something which others said was hard to find. Glycerin was mentioned too but cautioned to be sticky? My mature skin tends to be slightly oily with dryness on the cheek area so I don't think I want something which feels "sticky".

Thank you for any advice, ladies!
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 1:22 pm      Reply with quote
blesstd wrote:
I'm very interested in making my own Vit C serum.

KassyA, could you share exactly how you make yours? (i.e. measurements of each) Do you mix them all together or are there steps to follow?

Also, for these ingredients, where do I find it at? I live in the States - are there stores which may carry it or are the internet sites best?

I did come across Carekate's recipe - but now that others have experimented, I'm wondering if it's been enhanced further like Kassy did.

I also saw that Carekate used poly---something which others said was hard to find. Glycerin was mentioned too but cautioned to be sticky? My mature skin tends to be slightly oily with dryness on the cheek area so I don't think I want something which feels "sticky".

Thank you for any advice, ladies!



I'd be happy to offer you my opinion and suggesstions, and also look forward to hearing everyone elses ideas as well. (We have much to learn and share with each other.. Laughing )

Not one hour ago, I shared this recipe with an "EDS" friend, so I'll copy it here for you guys as well. You'll notice in the ingredients, I've incorporated a teaspoon of Remergent DNA in there. The reason being; the oil form of vitamin C + other goodies that are in there, will benefit the serum without hurting the low PH needed.. (For me it's all about experimenting with the best possible ingredients.) This particular recipe has worked nicely for me the past few weeks. It's my version of Skinceuticals C, E + Ferulic, with a kick!...... Laughing


15% Vitamin C Serum ( 08/17/08 ), 1oz

1 teaspoon L-Ascorbic Acid
3 teaspoons Distilled Water
1 teaspoon SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
1 teaspoon Remergent DNA cream (You 302 girls, can substitute with your THDA product!)
1/2 vial Ferulic Acid
1/2 capsule of MSM supplement (be sure it's one with NO fillers!)
6 drops of Vitamin E oil

Dissolve the C in the water stirring frequently till no crystal remains (10 minutes or so), to that now add the powders; (MSM + Ferulic) and stir till dissolved. In a separate little glass stir together the remaining ingredients; (SKB, Vit E, + DNA cream) + stir till mixed well. Now add it all together stirring for 3 or 4 minutes, and transfer it into a dark blue or amber 1oz dropper bottle. (Two glass shot glasses are perfect for mixing up this serum.)

A 1oz bottle last's me between 7 + 9 weeks and I apply to face, neck, decolette' + hands. I keep it in my bathroom, but it's good to keep any C products in the fridge.

I buy my ingredients at several different places. Here's a couple;

http://www.skinactives.com/

http://www.thepersonalformulator.com/wvss/index.php?cPath=46

http://www.makingcosmetics.com/index1.html

The last one is especially helpful as there is a ton of info and advice, as well as good conversion charts for the DIY'er!

CareKate's recipe is exactly how I got my start down the DIY path. I love her recipe's and have learned much from her posts in general. Her vitamin C recipe is especially nice recipe for getting your feet wet. It's easy to make and effective. The ingredient your trying to remember is 'propylene glycol'. It gives the serum a nice consistency and stabilizes it somewhat. I don't like it though personally, because I feel it just lays on my skin and hinders penetration. Glycerin is great for mature/dry skin, but most people find it too greasy unless it's used in a very tiny amount..

With so many extroardinary ingredients out there these days, it's fairly easy to do a bit of research and make yourself one h*ll of a cream or serum. I love to research the top of the line, hot products + ingredients, check out any patents, and then get busy in my kitchen.........It's certainly not for everyone, but for me it's a wonderful hobby with extremely amazing benefits and most importantly, results.. Very Happy

HTH!........As always, I'm happy to share with ya'll....Image
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 2:17 pm      Reply with quote
Ad was mentioned, I get the vitamin C from lotioncrafter. Initially I was using rice bran oil and now I'm also adding some argan oil to the mix. I have a little 5 ml measuring cup that I use (that I also got from lotioncrafter). An ounce is 28 ml. So if you're using 1 oz of oil, you just measure out about 3 ml of the vitamin C. I like keeping my recipes simple... I *think* this type of vitamin C is fine in an oil base.

TanyaB wrote:
Numie,

Where did you buy "tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base"? I want it too Very Happy

TIA

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Sun Aug 17, 2008 5:33 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:


15% Vitamin C Serum, 1oz

1 teaspoon L-Ascorbic Acid
3 teaspoons Distilled Water
1 teaspoon SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
1 teaspoon Remergent DNA cream (You 302 girls, can substitute with your THDA product!)
1/2 vial Ferulic Acid
1/2 capsule of MSM supplement (be sure it's one with NO fillers!)
6 drops of Vitamin E oil

Dissolve the C in the water stirring frequently till no crystal remains (10 minutes or so), to that now add the powders; (MSM + Ferulic) and stir till dissolved. In a separate little glass stir together the remaining ingredients; (SKB, Vit E, + DNA cream) + stir till mixed well. Now add it all together stirring for 3 or 4 minutes, and transfer it into a dark blue or amber 1oz dropper bottle. (Two glass shot glasses are perfect for mixing up this serum.)



I am almost to the bottom of my c serum, and will try this next. Thanks for sharing.

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TanyaB
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Sun Aug 17, 2008 6:23 pm      Reply with quote
OMG, Kassy_A!
THIS IS some vitamin C serum Very Happy
and I was so silly to ask about adding essential oil Very Happy

Thanks for sharing!

P.S. I don't have SKB separately, but I have "let's make collagen" serum by SkinActives, which has many of listed ingredients. Next time I will add a little bit of it. Even though I hate the smell Embarassed

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Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:34 pm      Reply with quote
KassyA, THANK YOU for this very thorough post on your serum. This is just what I was hoping to learn being that Carekate's recipe was quite some time ago. It's creative that you thought to add the Remergent DNA cream! I am just starting to read-up on the Remergent DNA serum and Barrier cream after seeing it mentioned in that skincare book (I can't remember the name and already returned it to the library but it was discussed on the skincare board.)

Nimue, would you mind sharing your recipe too? When using the tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in an oil base, do you find it absorbs easily or does it feel oily? I'm just wondering about using it in the morning under my make up.

And then I came across a thread on the Skin Medica Vit C Complex. I guess depending on our individual preferences - cost, convenience, etc. - determines the method we try.

I think I'm on "information overload" Embarassed at the moment.

Many thanks again for sharing your expertise!
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Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:15 am      Reply with quote
Its Vit C only meant 4 the face? Or could be used on entire body?
Kassy_A
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Mon Aug 18, 2008 10:04 am      Reply with quote
Thyckecutie wrote:
Its Vit C only meant 4 the face? Or could be used on entire body?



You can put it anywhere on your body. Especially if you make it yourself for about $3 bucks an ounce.. Laughing
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