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Dr. Kassy's face firming and eye cream
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Kassy_A
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Sat Jul 31, 2010 12:47 pm      Reply with quote
*** Cross posting for my DIY *buddies* Bad Grin ***

I threw together very quickly a serum that's pretty nice so far.

22% VIT C SERUM (L-AA + THDA)

10% L-AA (water soluble)
7% THDA (oil soluble)
2% Alpha Lipoic Acid (oil soluble)
1% Ferulic Acid (alcohol soluble)
3% Macadamia OR Grapeseed Oil (both have high vitamin E content and are lovely on the skin, without leaving a greasy feel.)
1% Polysorbate 80 (or emulsifier of your choice)
1% Vodka (for dissolving FA only, both can be left out if you choose.)
75% Distilled Water

Experienced DIY'ers will have no problems doing this in 3 simple phases.

For 'newbies', I'd suggest just leaving out the FAA and vodka, and proceeding in just 2 easy phases (oil + water).

Have fun!

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pyro
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Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:48 am      Reply with quote
KiraB wrote:


What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)
What to do;
- In first shot glass, put 1 tsp C into the 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water. Put on the side, stirring occasionally till FULLY dissolved (This can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour, so have patience.)
- In 2nd shot glass put in 1/2 tsp vodka, and sprinkle the FA in and mix. (Little formulator spatulas are great for this!) When it has dissolved fully, add in the vitamin E + SKB and stir it all up well.
- When the LAA has fully dissolved in the 1st shot glass, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir very well, and carefully pour into your 1oz bottle.
Keeping it in a cool dry, dark place, or fridge will keep it potent + stable!


Folks

I tried it and the serum is too runny. I wonder if i used the right amounts of FE? 1 pinch literally... Maybe it should be ramped up to 1/4 tsp. Also measured the PH to be 1.0.. Is it too low?

I also got tons of flakes after stirring for 10 min so left it there.. Should i throw it away?

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Kassy_A
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Wed Aug 04, 2010 9:23 am      Reply with quote
pyro wrote:
KiraB wrote:


What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)
What to do;
- In first shot glass, put 1 tsp C into the 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water. Put on the side, stirring occasionally till FULLY dissolved (This can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour, so have patience.)
- In 2nd shot glass put in 1/2 tsp vodka, and sprinkle the FA in and mix. (Little formulator spatulas are great for this!) When it has dissolved fully, add in the vitamin E + SKB and stir it all up well.
- When the LAA has fully dissolved in the 1st shot glass, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir very well, and carefully pour into your 1oz bottle.
Keeping it in a cool dry, dark place, or fridge will keep it potent + stable!


Folks

I tried it and the serum is too runny. I wonder if i used the right amounts of FE? 1 pinch literally... Maybe it should be ramped up to 1/4 tsp. Also measured the PH to be 1.0.. Is it too low?

I also got tons of flakes after stirring for 10 min so left it there.. Should i throw it away?


I'd suggest you pitch what you made and start all over leaving out the FA and vodka. Several members have trouble with the FA *flaking* on them.

I'm thinking that either you didn't follow the recipe and steps exactly, or you substitued an ingredient or two. (Are you using pure L-AA specifically designed for DIY skincare, or soemthing designed as a supplement?) Supplements have food grade preservatives in them, whether they tell you or not, and also anti-caking ingredients!!!

Anyway, just some thoughts, because the recipe as written would never be "pH 1". Shock

Also keep in mind the majority of my C serums are thin by design, (as are the majority of my "treatment" serums.)

Hope that helps a bit Very Happy

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Sat Aug 07, 2010 8:09 pm      Reply with quote
Hi Kassy

My LAA, FE as well SKB is from skinactives. I think i followed the recipe to the teeth except how much FE is a pinch..No harm except it doesnt sting much. The only difference is i used Rosehip instead of Vitamin E. I remember last month i used Vitamin E and that didnt get me flakes and it sting a bit. So pretty sure is the Rosehip oil. No harm. i will throw it and start over

thanks

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Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:07 pm      Reply with quote
Hi
my first post so sorry to ask something that
has already been addressed ... But
Kassy lists MAP as an ingredient for her Vitamin C serum I don't know what that stands for ??
Anyone else know what this is ?
Having a Duh ...moment Smile

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Sun Aug 08, 2010 1:46 pm      Reply with quote
Bdereck67 wrote:
Hi
Kassy lists MAP as an ingredient for her Vitamin C serum I don't know what that stands for ??


Hi and welcome!

MAP is magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. There's more info about it and the other types of vit c here:
http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/vitcderiv.html

I've used MAP in some serums, but I find the serums don't last as long - they start to turn yellow sooner or smell funny. So if you use it, make small quantities.
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Tue Aug 10, 2010 12:42 am      Reply with quote
I've used a few commercial products with MAP in them; my skin likes it well, and they never turned color or got an "off" smell...is it a matter of preservatives?

ShastaGirl wrote:

I've used MAP in some serums, but I find the serums don't last as long - they start to turn yellow sooner or smell funny. So if you use it, make small quantities.

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Tue Aug 10, 2010 7:27 pm      Reply with quote
caboodle wrote:
I've used a few commercial products with MAP in them; my skin likes it well, and they never turned color or got an "off" smell...is it a matter of preservatives?

ShastaGirl wrote:

I've used MAP in some serums, but I find the serums don't last as long - they start to turn yellow sooner or smell funny. So if you use it, make small quantities.


Yep, I looked into it some while back as to what was going on with the MAP. I had tried it in different serums, one with a preservative (germaban) and a CE Ferulic without a preservative and both turned yellow.

http://makingcosmetics.com had some info that explained what was going on, since both serums had PH<6:

Description: Very stable vitamin C derivative (L-Ascorbic acid mono-dihydrogen phosphate magnesium salt) that does not degrade in formulas containing water. Light-stable and oxygen-stable. Purity >98.0 %. White-yellowish powder, mild odor. Soluble in water, may discolor in pH <6, best when used in emulsion based products at pH between 5.5-7.

I ended up just not using the MAP anymore - I wasn't convinced it was doing anything special anyway.
Kassy_A
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Tue Aug 17, 2010 10:35 pm      Reply with quote
ShastaGirl wrote:
caboodle wrote:
I've used a few commercial products with MAP in them; my skin likes it well, and they never turned color or got an "off" smell...is it a matter of preservatives?

ShastaGirl wrote:

I've used MAP in some serums, but I find the serums don't last as long - they start to turn yellow sooner or smell funny. So if you use it, make small quantities.


Yep, I looked into it some while back as to what was going on with the MAP. I had tried it in different serums, one with a preservative (germaban) and a CE Ferulic without a preservative and both turned yellow.

http://makingcosmetics.com had some info that explained what was going on, since both serums had PH<6:

Description: Very stable vitamin C derivative (L-Ascorbic acid mono-dihydrogen phosphate magnesium salt) that does not degrade in formulas containing water. Light-stable and oxygen-stable. Purity >98.0 %. White-yellowish powder, mild odor. Soluble in water, may discolor in pH <6, best when used in emulsion based products at pH between 5.5-7.

I ended up just not using the MAP anymore - I wasn't convinced it was doing anything special anyway.


I had the same experiences as 'Shasta'. I can just add that whenever I used it in an acidic base, it would get that miserable "hot dog" smell after a couple of weeks.

I won't buy it again, but I do occassionally put it in more neutral creams or lotions, simply for the antioxidant benefit.

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Sun Sep 05, 2010 8:54 am      Reply with quote
This is without doubt the most stupid questions ever but are you using tablespoons or teaspoons in the recipes from our lovely Kassy? Embarassed
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Sun Sep 12, 2010 3:56 am      Reply with quote
for this recipe:
"
What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)
"

is there anything else i can substitute the vodka with?
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Sun Sep 12, 2010 9:23 am      Reply with quote
http://www.lotioncrafter.com/ferulic-acid.html

Ferulic Acid

Suggested Usage Rate: 0.5 - 1%


Appearance: White or light brownish yellow crystalline powder with a mild pleasant odor
Source: Extraction and purification from rice bran oil
Country of Origin: Japan
Solubility: Soluble in Propylene Glycol, Ethoxydiglycol (EDG), Dimethyl Isosorbide (DMI), ethanol,  and hot water (produces a milky yellow, rather than clear solution)
Storage: Store in cool, dry place in original container away from light and moisture.
Shelf life: Two years, properly stored.

INCI: Ferulic Acid

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Sun Sep 12, 2010 1:56 pm      Reply with quote
Maxima wrote:
This is without doubt the most stupid questions ever but are you using tablespoons or teaspoons in the recipes from our lovely Kassy? Embarassed


tsp = teaspoon

Tbs = tablespoon

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Sun Sep 12, 2010 4:04 pm      Reply with quote
myztic wrote:
for this recipe:
"
What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)
"

is there anything else i can substitute the vodka with?


I've heard of a few people that have used witch hazel instead of vodka to dissolve the ferulic. Can't say I've tried it myself. It might take longer and you may have to stir it more.
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Mon Sep 13, 2010 4:16 am      Reply with quote
Frodo wrote:
Maxima wrote:
This is without doubt the most stupid questions ever but are you using tablespoons or teaspoons in the recipes from our lovely Kassy? Embarassed


tsp = teaspoon

Tbs = tablespoon


Thank you very much Frodo!
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Sun Nov 07, 2010 12:54 am      Reply with quote
Kassy, Can i firstly just say how awesome you are, i just love seeing your commitment to everyone's inquiries and all your recipe's. I have ordered product for your Vit C+E+FA+Jojoba oil and cannot wait till it arrives. I am however a bit concerned i ordered the wrong sea kelp product. Everyone is saying it is cheaper on Nancy's website, but i actually ordered Sea Kelp Ferment (aka Seakelp bioferment)from bulkactives 8oz for $8.60. Is this the same product?

On another note i have a ton of freckles, and just found the Vit C Hyaluronic Acid & Kukui Oil serum. Do you think i should use this instead?

I am just a beginner, and any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers Smile
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Mon Nov 08, 2010 8:07 am      Reply with quote
Quote:
LEMON PEEL EXTRACT:

-2 lemons
-1/2 cup Distilled Water
-1 cup Vodka
-Mason or any glass jar with cover. (Sterilize before use in boiling water for 8 minutes.)

If I were a hyperpigmentation sufferer, I would definitely whip up a DIY concoction with this extract, and also add some kojic acid, MSM + licorice root...



Can u please suggest in what amount I can combine msm and licorice extract with the lemon peel extract and also is there anything that I can add to it to make it moisturising and less drying.

Thanks
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Thu Nov 11, 2010 9:14 am      Reply with quote
Thank you Kassy for the recipe!
I've tried to make the serum just now and it worked pretty good, just that I cut back on the SKB a little to avoid the sticky afterfeel.

I also used neroli hydrosol instead of distilled water in the recipe.

I left my serum in the cupboard for a short while, but when I returned, it seemed to have separated a little.. The mixture wasn't as homogeneous as I liked..

Why could be the reason, and how can I improve on it the next time?

Thanks!

Kassy_A wrote:
Alley wrote:
Kassy I am patiently awaiting my ferulic acid from bulkactives.com (I am really trying to remember why I didn't order from Skinactives). I have the Vitamin E from Personal Forumlator and the ascorbic acid from skinactives. My goal is a simple stable C+E+Ferulic serum that I can mix up every couple of days or once a week.

If I don't see the ferulic acid by the end of the week I might just place another skinactives order.


I'm sure you'll get it soon!

Okay, I've worked out a simple recipe, for a 1oz 15%, C, E + Ferulic... You can relax and make 1 oz, which will probably last you 8 weeks or so.. It is very stable, and will remain so until it's used up, so no need to worry. (The vit E, SKB + FA all make it very stable!)

What you need for 1oz C,E, Ferulic 15%;
- 2 glass shot glasses
- 1oz cobalt or amber dropper or pump bottle
- 1 tsp L-Ascorbic Acid
- 1/4 tsp (1 ml) Vitamin E (equals 1%)
- .5% of Ferulic Acid (1 good pinch)
- 2 tsp SKB (Sea Kelp Bioferment)
- 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water
- 1/2 tsp of vodka (don't laugh, you need it to dissolve the FA so it's not gritty, and it also keeps the ph low enough!)

What to do;

- In first shot glass, put 1 tsp C into the 3 + 1/2 tsp of distilled water. Put on the side, stirring occasionally till FULLY dissolved (This can be anywhere from 10 minutes to an hour, so have patience.)

- In 2nd shot glass put in 1/2 tsp vodka, and sprinkle the FA in and mix. (Little formulator spatulas are great for this!) When it has dissolved fully, add in the vitamin E + SKB and stir it all up well.

- When the LAA has fully dissolved in the 1st shot glass, mix the contents of both glasses together, stir very well, and carefully pour into your 1oz bottle.

Keeping it in a cool dry, dark place, or fridge will keep it potent + stable!

Hope you like it!
Kassy_A
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Thu Nov 11, 2010 10:58 pm      Reply with quote
@hippie; Cutting back on the SKB has contributed to the separation. It is not a *true* emulsifier, but it works like one when using 2 tsp in the 1oz serum.

Your other option is to just add polysorbate 80 @ 1% (or your emulsifier of choice) to your phase 2 glass.

@cassiehk; Thank you, you're very sweet... Regarding the SKB, you're in good shape with either NCN or Bulkactives. I find them both the same.

Kukui Nut oil, Niacinamide, Licorice Root, MSM, Lactic Acid, White Tea and Citrus Extracts all help in the hyper-pigmentation arena. I've also read recently about copper/glycine complexes, but I haven't studied it enough to really offer an opinion.

@payal; The lemon extract is more of a *spot* treatment, which can be applied to freckles/spots etc, and once dried you should just follow with a regular moisturizer. It's quite drying to be used all over, as is IMHO. I don't see any harm though, in adding a tsp of the extract into an existing cream or serum that you already use. (It incorporates very nicely into CeraVe Lotion for example.)

In order to kick it up a notch, you can add licorice root extract @ between 2 + 5%, and for the MSM I would just use one 1000mg dose (capsule or powder), of a pure MSM supplement. (I like and use "Natures Way Opti-MSM", which contains no fillers or exipients.)

***As a side note, for those who want to incorporate other supplements into their DIY formulas, there is a simple way to be sure they are pure enough to do this.. Simply empty the contents of the capsule into an 2 ounces of distilled water. If it doesn't fully dissolve before hitting the bottom, it is not pure. Many supplements are advertised as pure, but they aren't including the 'anti-caking' ingredients when they say that*** (Do not do this test with water from your faucet, it contains metals that will dissolve your supplement and give you a false positive!)

@myztic; you can supplement witch hazel for the vodka, or just buy an *alcohol* ingredient from wherever you buy your actives..(I've tried it all and *Absolute(ly)", like vodka the best... Very Happy

Hope that helps!

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♥I'm flattered by all the lovely PM's, but I don't get here much these days. Please don't be afraid to post your quearies to other DIY members who will be glad to help you (or sell you their wares..lol) Still happy with LED, dermarolling and a DIY antioxidant regime. Peace & Hugs to all.♥
JessicaWiehle
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Fri Nov 12, 2010 3:14 pm      Reply with quote
Kassy,

For those of us not interested in using the polysorbate and preservative, can we eliminate the preserveative and use a different emulsifyer. I am thinking something more natural. I have lecithin, beeswax, glycerine, SKB (i've made your jojoba, SKB, CFE serum <3), uhm, i'm sure i'm forgetting something here...

Also, I was wondering, if we like a thicker serum, could we add a tad of xanthan gum? Just bouncing ideas...
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Thu Nov 25, 2010 9:59 am      Reply with quote
Kassy_A wrote:
@hippie; Cutting back on the SKB has contributed to the separation. It is not a *true* emulsifier, but it works like one when using 2 tsp in the 1oz serum.

Your other option is to just add polysorbate 80 @ 1% (or your emulsifier of choice) to your phase 2 glass.

@cassiehk; Thank you, you're very sweet... Regarding the SKB, you're in good shape with either NCN or Bulkactives. I find them both the same.

Kukui Nut oil, Niacinamide, Licorice Root, MSM, Lactic Acid, White Tea and Citrus Extracts all help in the hyper-pigmentation arena. I've also read recently about copper/glycine complexes, but I haven't studied it enough to really offer an opinion.

@payal; The lemon extract is more of a *spot* treatment, which can be applied to freckles/spots etc, and once dried you should just follow with a regular moisturizer. It's quite drying to be used all over, as is IMHO. I don't see any harm though, in adding a tsp of the extract into an existing cream or serum that you already use. (It incorporates very nicely into CeraVe Lotion for example.)

In order to kick it up a notch, you can add licorice root extract @ between 2 + 5%, and for the MSM I would just use one 1000mg dose (capsule or powder), of a pure MSM supplement. (I like and use "Natures Way Opti-MSM", which contains no fillers or exipients.)

***As a side note, for those who want to incorporate other supplements into their DIY formulas, there is a simple way to be sure they are pure enough to do this.. Simply empty the contents of the capsule into an 2 ounces of distilled water. If it doesn't fully dissolve before hitting the bottom, it is not pure. Many supplements are advertised as pure, but they aren't including the 'anti-caking' ingredients when they say that*** (Do not do this test with water from your faucet, it contains metals that will dissolve your supplement and give you a false positive!)

@myztic; you can supplement witch hazel for the vodka, or just buy an *alcohol* ingredient from wherever you buy your actives..(I've tried it all and *Absolute(ly)", like vodka the best... Very Happy

Hope that helps!


Hi Kassy,I followed your recipe for the 15% c Serum, I did it twice and it comes up flaky. I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Did anybody have this same problem?

Thank you for all your sharing Kassy and all the DIYers. It saves money and get time to do something for yourself.
Erika
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Thu Nov 25, 2010 11:26 am      Reply with quote
Erika,

Not Kassy but did you use cold vodka? It's best if kept in the freezer.

If vodka just doesn't cut it and it's legal where you live try Everclear the 190 proof! Smile

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Everclear_(alcohol)?wasRedirected=true

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Sun Jan 02, 2011 8:38 am      Reply with quote
Hello Kassy,

I have been reading over your threads on how to make this skin treatment. I have to say I love vitamin C when it is in a Skin treatment product and it seems whenever I just find one I like the company stops making it...I have a couple of questions for you..

It sounds like people are using this all over their faces so it doesn't block pores?? I have pretty sensitive skin and it does have larger pores so I am always hesitant putting things all over my face because of course I then end up with a break out lol

Where do you get all of your ingredients...health food store or do you order them via EDS...

Thanks for taking the time to get back to me! Very Happy

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Sun Jan 02, 2011 9:56 am      Reply with quote
Most people do use their Vitamin C serums all over the face, however some with more sensitive skin can't tolerate it, I would suggest a small patch test to check your own skin. Smile

Near the bottom of the recipe index there is a list of suppliers, also a "sub" thread A list of suppliers. HTH

http://www.essentialdayspa.com/forum/viewthread.php?tid=11902

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Wed Jan 19, 2011 2:06 am      Reply with quote
I'm getting everything I need so I can make Kassy's 15% Vitamin C, E + FA Serum with Jojoba!

1 tsp L-AA
1 tsp SKB
1 tsp Jojoba Oil
3 tsp H2O
1/4 tsp Ferulic Acid
1/4 tsp Vitamin E Oil
1/4 tsp Vodka or Witch Hazel (vodka is best and purest though.)

I have a cart full of this stuff and related items for making diy concoctions and I'm so excited to order, but I'm going to hold off until I get some knowledgeable council whether or not I should get all my supplies through Lotioncrafter (except for the distilled water and vodka of course)or get some from another source. Also would like recommendations for basic items that would be helpful in making diy recipes (and where to get them).

Please don't make me wait too long! I'm ready yesterday to make my C, E + FA Serum with Jojoba! Smile I will be grateful to whosoever will help me starting out here.
    Miche

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DS Laboratories Trioxil.PM Anti-Acne Gel (30 ml) Revitalash Double-ended Volume Set - Raven NuFace Gel Primer (5 fl oz / 148 ml)