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Wed Feb 04, 2009 8:38 am  |
There has been some discussion on the forum about the skin care ingredient niacinamide (B3). People have been wondering whether the plain form of niacinamide (found in Olay etc) is just as effective as pro-NAD, that is found in the more expensive skin care lines NIA 24 and the new brand, Canyon Ranch.
Well, top dermatologist and Professor Leslie Baumann is crystal clear that pro-NAD is better because it better penetrates the deeper layers of the skin. She even calls pro-NAD her favorite ingredient in her skincare blog.
Here is an abstract from one of her latest posts at skinguru.com.
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Why is pro-NAD such a good ingredient for skin protection?
Hyperpigmentation
When it comes to reducing areas of excess pigmentation, pro-NAD inhibits the transfers of melanosomes (vesicles filled with melanin, or skin pigment) to skin cells, which improves existing dark spots and helps prevent new ones from forming.
Anti-aging
Pro-NAD is a powerful anti-aging ingredient. For starters it helps decrease inflammation in the skin, which is thought to play a role in collagen-loss, and ultimately, aging. Moreover, pro-NAD helps fuel the enzymes needed to repair damage to skin's DNA caused, for example, by sun exposure.
Moisture
Niacinamide is an excellent moisturizer - it increases ceramide levels, helping the skin barrier to naturally renew itself and retain moisture. Niacinamide is available in several easy-to-find skin care lines like Olay's Regenerist, Definity and Total Effects products. However, only the Canyon Ranch line and NIA24 contain niacinamide that has a n important side group added to increase its penetration into deeper layers of the skin.
http://health.yahoo.com/experts/skintype/14729/the-best-ingredient-for-skin-protection/
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Dr Baumann speaks highly of the relatively new brand Canyon Ranch in her post. Canyon Ranch Age Transforming Concentrate serum ($150, 1 oz, skinstore.com) contains pro-NAD along with peptides and antioxidants. It surely looks interesting (and expensive).
http://www.skinstore.com/p-8309-canyon-ranch-age-transforming-concentrate-serum.aspx |
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Female, 40, Norway. Normal/dry skin, starting to see signs of aging. Staples: Glycolic acid cleanser, SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, Revaleskin, NIA24. |
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Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:20 am |
Thanks for the link, Septembergirl. Interesting.
I just did a quick Pubmed search for the research suggesting that pro-NAD is more effective than "plain" niacinamide and came up empty. Does anyone have any links to clinical studies? |
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Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:46 am |
Hi, flitcraft. 
There is some research on pro-NAD mentioned under "science" on NIA24.com, most likely conducted by the company (I cannot make the link work right now, but I know they mention some studies). Actually, I am not aware that there are any scientific, independent studies on pro-NAD.
My guess is that Dr Baumann might have seen some of the unpublished material and got impressed. All I know is that she always used to recommend the Olay products with the plain niacinamide (and she was using them herself), but now she obviously prefers the advanced pro-NAD formula. |
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Female, 40, Norway. Normal/dry skin, starting to see signs of aging. Staples: Glycolic acid cleanser, SkinCeuticals Phloretin CF, Revaleskin, NIA24. |
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Wed Feb 04, 2009 9:48 am |
| If anyone wishes to buy this at the skin store, type in the promo code Luv100 and get $20 off, plus you will get free shipping. |
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The best way to locate your cat is to open a can of food. |
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Wed Feb 04, 2009 11:10 pm |
| Thanks for the posts, ladies! That just persuaded me to order more NIA24 skin strengthening complex since my supply is finishing. |
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Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:30 am |
| Oh no. Well I'm not happy to hear this, since niacinamide is sooooo much cheaper than NIA24 products or this other brand. Well I'll continue with my niacinamide serum for now. |
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24 yrs old. favorite sunscreen right now: Burnout [now 35] |
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Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:05 am |
| The skin strengthening product is out of my price range but I am strongly considering getting the NIA 24 sunscreen (physical sunscreen with titanium diox/zinc oxide) and using that over my retin A at night, since it contains 5% pro Niacin. It is only $55 for 100 ml vs. $85 for 50 ml. It also contains vitamin E but it lacks some of the other antioxidants in the skin strengthening. Do you think this is a good idea? Physical sunscreens are less irritating than chemical ones so I thought maybe that would work. |
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Thu Feb 05, 2009 10:28 am |
Do you already use a good sunscreen during the day? Even if you do you could maybe use a litttle of the NIA24 in addition to the sunscreen you already use. You could mix them together.
| amonavis wrote: |
| The skin strengthening product is out of my price range but I am strongly considering getting the NIA 24 sunscreen (physical sunscreen with titanium diox/zinc oxide) and using that over my retin A at night, since it contains 5% pro Niacin. It is only $55 for 100 ml vs. $85 for 50 ml. It also contains vitamin E but it lacks some of the other antioxidants in the skin strengthening. Do you think this is a good idea? Physical sunscreens are less irritating than chemical ones so I thought maybe that would work. |
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24 yrs old. favorite sunscreen right now: Burnout [now 35] |
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Thu Feb 05, 2009 11:43 pm |
| amonavis wrote: |
| The skin strengthening product is out of my price range but I am strongly considering getting the NIA 24 sunscreen (physical sunscreen with titanium diox/zinc oxide) and using that over my retin A at night, since it contains 5% pro Niacin... |
I wish I could stand the scent of their sunscreen, otherwise I would try that.  |
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Fri Feb 06, 2009 2:00 am |
| amonavis wrote: |
| The skin strengthening product is out of my price range but I am strongly considering getting the NIA 24 sunscreen (physical sunscreen with titanium diox/zinc oxide) and using that over my retin A at night, since it contains 5% pro Niacin. It is only $55 for 100 ml vs. $85 for 50 ml. It also contains vitamin E but it lacks some of the other antioxidants in the skin strengthening. Do you think this is a good idea? Physical sunscreens are less irritating than chemical ones so I thought maybe that would work. |
I suggest you order samples of the sunscreen and skin strengthening complex to test out before doing this. I had the same idea as you. But I really did not get on well at all with the sunscreen. I used it in the day time, with Renova (another form of retin A) at night. The sunscreen made my skin dry and peeling. And also gave me a few little bumps and pimples. I didn't have any problem with using the skin strengthening complex. You can either order a set of travel-sized samples from EDS or else fromwww.skin-etc.com. In fact, each of the travel samples (10mls) can be ordered individually from skin-etc and cost $8 each. So after my SSC samples from EDS were finished, I ordered more SSC travel samples from skin-etc. |
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Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:06 am |
Patricia Wexler also uses Pro-NAD (or as Nia calls it Pro-Niacin) in her skincare line. She calls the ingredient NIACYL instead of Pro-Niacin and it is listed on her ingredient lists as myristyl nicotinate (Nia and Canyon Ranch also list the ingredient as myristyl nicotinate in their INCIs). I found several references which prove that Dr. Wexler is using Niadyne's Pro-Niacin. The following is just one that I happen to recall:
http://swehsc.pharmacy.arizona.edu/highlights/Jacobsons_June_07.php |
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