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Tue Feb 24, 2009 5:29 am  |
Essential oils can become allergens on contact with air and skin, says researcher
By Katie Bird, 05-Feb-2009
Related topics: Formulation & Science
Essential oils may become allergenic on contact with oxygen in the air and certain skin enzymes, according to recent research.
Formulators should be aware that certain aromatic oils are altered by environmental factors and can cause contact allergies in sensitive individuals, even if the oil itself is not an allergen in its pure form, said researcher Lina Hagvall from the University of Gothenburg, Sweden.
Hagvall looked at lavender oil and geraniol oil (the major component of rose oil) as part of her pHD thesis.
Lavender oil oxidises in air
Lavender oil reacts with the oxygen in the air forming hydroperoxides, which are strong allergens, according to Hagvall.
Although Hagvall did not investigate the behaviour of lavender oil when in contact with skin enzymes, she referenced previous studies indicating it did not form allergens under these circumstances.
In contrast, geraniol oil reacted with the skin enzymes as well as oxidising in contact with the air, forming the same allergenic compound in both cases - geranial.
Geranial is also an irritant, according to Hagvall. Although the reaction in sufferers can look the same, allergens cause an immune response whereas irritants damage the surface of the skin causing inflammation.
Preventing autoxidation
For Hagvall, these results suggest formulators should take steps to prevent autoxidation.
“I think that autoxidation should be considered by formulators and producers of essential oils…more work is needed to make sure these essential oils are used in a safer way, with regard to the development of contact allergies,” she said.
Obviously there are differences between lavender and geraniol oil. With lavender, formulators need only stop autoxidation whereas even if autoxidation could be prevented in the case of geraniol, geranial could still form on contact with the skin.
Having said that, Hagvall explained that the main risk for developing contact allergy to geraniol is through contact with air-exposed material as the concentrations of the allergens are higher. Therefore, preventing autoxidation is still important for geraniol, she said.
http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Formulation-Science/Essential-oils-can-become-allergens-on-contact-with-air-and-skin-says-researcher |
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Wed Feb 25, 2009 11:08 pm |
| Oh my god.I am not a fan but prepared to be one.... |
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beauty~ |
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 4:27 am |
| But i'm sure with all the years of research that they have invested in their oils, i guess that it wont turn out that way.. |
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:46 am |
This information is very factual. If you read back through many of my posts over the past months you can see that I've been talking about "inherently unstable oils" a lot. These oils are very prone to oxidation. The oxidation makes them break down into smaller chemical chain compounds such as ketones and aldehydes. These small chain compounds smell bad, and that is known as being "rancid". This information brings more to light, the fact that many people can be allergic to these smaller chain compounds as well. And remember, these unstable oils tend to break down quickly, so whatever the claim was that went with that product, you can throw it out the window when it breaks down under oxidation. It's just not the same material anymore.
There is one item that is somewhat incorrect in their information. There is no way for formulators to make an inherently unstable oil...stable. No amount of antioxidants of any type can stop an unstable oil from breaking down and become rancid. Countless research lab trials of oils of all types on an Oxidative Stability Index machine has proven this to be true. In some cases, adding antioxidants actually sped up the breakdown process! So, if you buy a product with unstable oils in it, and see things like "BHT", Vitamin E, and other "antioxidants" in the ingredients list, it's a mistaken attempt by the formulator to keep the unstable oils stable. It just won't work.
Instead, look for products with less than 5% polyunsaturated fatty acids in the formula. This would include such items as High Oleic Sunflower, Meadowfoam, Macadamia Oil and some others. And, Jojoba, which is a liquid wax ester, is also inherently stable.
Here is a brief list of typical cosmetic oils that are "inherently unstable" and will break down into small chain compounds to go rancid:
hemp, chia, kukui, flax, soybean, walnut, wheat germ, evening primrose, safflower, grape seed, corn oil, sesame, rice bran, almond, cocoa butter, cottonseed, palm oil, avocado... and others.
There is a very good article in Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine, publication date 01-July-97 that does a very good job of describing oxidatively unstable oils.
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The ability of a product to resist oxidation is an important component of customer satisfaction; a stable formula will help ensure that the desired functionality and appearance of the product will not be significantly altered over time because of exposure to air. The product will remain fresh and deliver the selected fragrance, or lack thereof, when the consumer inevitably lifts the container for a sniff.
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John |
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President and Chief Formulator, Never Over The Hill Cosmetics, Patend holder, Award winning cosmetic chemist, neveroverthehill.com, Age 51 and staying young forever! |
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 8:56 am |
| That was very informative thank you. So what about Decleor or Darphin oils? What do you think of them? |
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Thu Feb 26, 2009 12:00 pm |
| What about Argan oil? Have you heard about this one? it is popular in Morocco and apparantly is very healing and calming. |
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Thu Mar 19, 2009 9:57 am |
OMG...I gonna buy Decleor Ylang Ylang.  |
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Thu Mar 19, 2009 10:13 am |
haha, I never worry this kind of proble.
We should keep in mind that every product is potentially allergic. organic or natural products are not exception. when it comes to essential oil, you should be more careful cuz those products are concentrated. So I always suggest to start with 1-2 drops one time. |
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really love to pamper my skin |
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Fri Mar 20, 2009 8:50 am |
| NOTCH wrote: |
Here is a brief list of typical cosmetic oils that are "inherently unstable" and will break down into small chain compounds to go rancid:
hemp, chia, kukui, flax, soybean, walnut, wheat germ, evening primrose, safflower, grape seed, corn oil, sesame, rice bran, almond, cocoa butter, cottonseed, palm oil, avocado... and others.
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John - what's the verdict on tamanu oil? My other favs (kukui & avocado) are on the hit list
Also, does mixing/adding more stable oils like meadowfoam or macadamia (which I have and like) to the less stable ones improve the shelf life of the less stable oils? I'm thinking maybe 50/50 macadamia and kukui? Or 50/50 macadamia and avocado? |
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Sun Mar 22, 2009 7:08 am |
 I like to use essential oils for body massege...I thought they are natural and good for skin...
Perhaps, switching back to olive oil is a good idea?! |
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Pixie Rose
New Member
 
Joined: 15 Sep 2008
Posts: 7
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Tue Mar 24, 2009 4:38 pm |
| NOTCH wrote: |
Here is a brief list of typical cosmetic oils that are "inherently unstable" and will break down into small chain compounds to go rancid:
hemp, chia, kukui, flax, soybean, walnut, wheat germ, evening primrose, safflower, grape seed, corn oil, sesame, rice bran, almond, cocoa butter, cottonseed, palm oil, avocado... and others. |
John, would you mind providing the original source of this list of unstable oils? After researching the stability or unstability of various oils on the internet, I have only gotten more and more frustrated due to conflicting information. For instance, I have read that sesame oil is an extremely stable oil. Here, however, it makes your list of unstable oils. |
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Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:06 am |
I sense another knee-jerk reaction happening here - everyone is going to become afraid of using oils. I really don't think this is warranted. As Lillybelle said any product at all can produce an allergic reaction. Also, any product can go off or get bacteria in it. That is the reason why it's often suggested not to put your fingers into face cream, rather to use a clean spatula.
I use a variety of oils and have never had an instance of them turning rancid. However, if this should happen - then simply chuck it out and purchase a fresh batch. Oils are so cheap when compared to many of the facial creams available. I would advise, however, to keep oils in tinted glass bottles away from heat and light. |
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Born 1950. There's a new cream on the market that gets rid of wrinkles - you smear it on the mirror!! |
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Wed Mar 25, 2009 6:39 am |
I have used Decleor for years, never had an issue. Also my mother and she is allergic to everything and has severe reactions! That's why she loves their products so, the natural ingredients and smells cause no reaction. Go figure?
Although good info, it also won't prevent me from using them either. I think that if they had major issues, as many people use the products, you would hear more about it. The common sense comments were right, just use your own good judgement in storing and using and know your own skin. |
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Joined the 50 club several years back, blonde w/ fair/sensitive skin, Texas humidity and prone to rosacea, light breakouts and sunburns, combo skin type, starting to see sundamage and fine lines |
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Wed Mar 25, 2009 7:31 am |
some replies ive read
All essential oils have been exposed to oxygen. A adverse or "allergic" reaction to an essential oil would be dependent upon the body of person using it, not the exposure to oxygen.
Essential oils are not supposed to be used on skin, because they can easily cause allergic reaction. You need to delude them with water - a bunch of water and a few drops of the oil. I use them when i get flue or cold to do inhalations. and believe me the few first seconds my eyes sting like hell from that steam, it is very irritating. and i use expensive oils. |
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Mon Apr 13, 2009 1:13 am |
Decleor has over 900 scientists working for them and i dont think they would use ingredients which would cause any harm.
Decleor has been around for 35 years and im sure if their products caused many reactions they would not be as successful as they are today.
If you are worried about having a reaction ask your salon for a sample before purchase and rub some of the product either at the back of your ear or on the inside of your elbow where the skin is thinner to check for yourself.
I work with decleor and must have applied the products to over 50 people thus far and not one has had a reaction, not even people with allergies or extremely sensitive skin.
I am also an aromatherapist and as long as the oils are diluted to 2.5% in a carrier i have had no problems and must have given over 200 massages using a blend of 3 essential oils for each. |
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Less with more with Decleor |
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Fri Apr 24, 2009 11:56 pm |
OH NO...i am thinking of getting one of their oil for massaging my face before the application of mask which i heard have better effects...Now i dont know if i should go ahead or not...  |
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Sat Apr 25, 2009 4:40 am |
I have been using Darphin for 15 years. At the beginning a lot of success with the Baume purifiant and the Niaouli oil. This solve all my skin problem.
BUT........know I have a very sensitive skin and as per dermatologist and esthetician, this is due to essential oil that have been using for a too long period.
Be very careful with this type of product.
I still love Darphin for the smelt  but my skin can not support it any more |
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Sun Apr 26, 2009 8:35 am |
| yajo. What products are you using now if you can no longer use Darphin? thanks. Harriet |
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Mon Apr 27, 2009 5:36 am |
harriet,
I use Valmont products. No essential oils or phyto extracts. This has a good effect on my redness.
But you have to put away very nice smelt |
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fifi12
New Member
Joined: 09 May 2009
Posts: 5
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Sun May 10, 2009 5:22 am |
OMG ! I use Darphin every day so I hope I will not become allergic... 
I'm interested too in Valmont products but they're a bit expensive for me !  |
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Sun May 10, 2009 6:00 am |
Yes fifi12 they are expensive. This is the type of products that you absolutely have to test before any bought.
For me it is now a love story |
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Sun May 10, 2009 6:28 am |
haha i really love darphin tooo! i am using their 8 flower nectar now, and i absolutely love it!
haha.
yajo, i saw some valmont products on ebay.fr with a good price! |
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fifi12
New Member
Joined: 09 May 2009
Posts: 5
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Sun May 10, 2009 7:45 am |
Hi Calorblind !
You're right, E-bay is a good idea  |
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Sun May 10, 2009 8:51 am |
| i know, thank god for ebay.. lol |
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