Recent comprehensive meta-study on research into skincare
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free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:48 am

I came across this very recent comprehensive meta-study on a number of cosmeceutical skincare ingredients, including vitamin C, retinoids, oligo peptides and pentapeptides, arbutin, growth factors, and quite a few more. The article discusses the state of the scientific literature for each, including whether studies were double blind and random, meaning that neither the subject nor the researcher knew whether the subject was getting the tested ingredient or a placebo; or whether the study was open label, meaning that both the subject and the researcher knew what was being used.

The best part of the article, even more than its comprehensive summary of the research, is that is has a bibliography containing citations to all of the studies incorporated into the meta-study--nearly 200 in all. So if you want to know the current state of the scientific literature on many of the active ingredients used in skncare, here it is.

The title of the paper is "Cosmeceutical Agents: A Comprehensive Review of the Literature," by TC Tsai and BM Hantash, in Clinical Medicine: Dermatology, 2008 1, 1-20- la-press.com

I found the entire paper in PDF at

http://scholar.google.com/scholar?hl=en&lr=&cites=11772805916842476468

free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:55 am

Very interesting find...thanks for sharing.

I just printed it and will read it later today. If I see anything that is really surprising, I'll post some quotes.

free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:13 pm

Flit, that was a GREAT article!

This is a must read for anyone who wants a better understanding of all of the primary categories of cosmeceuticals, as well as more insight into what really has research behind it and what doesn't.

I'm reading it AGAIN tonight. Very Happy

free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 5:18 pm

Yes please share! It takes forever to download on my computer...

free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:07 pm

bethany wrote:

Very interesting find...thanks for sharing.

I just printed it and will read it later today. If I see anything that is really surprising, I'll post some quotes.

Thanks Flitcraft for bringing this on-board and thanks to Bethany for offering to post some of the good stuff. Bless ya!

free skin care · Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:15 pm

Flitcraft, this was a great find. Thanks for sharing. I thought the information was very enlightening on several of the ingredients and results. Can I ask how you came to find this? Were you searching for something specific?

free skin care · Sun Mar 15, 2009 7:53 am

Bethany, flitcraft, and rileygirl - can you please post anything informative, new, helpful, interesting for us?

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 6:12 am

I don't think the information was anything earth shattering or new for that fact.

There were 2 things I found interesting for myself.

One was that "Salicylic Acid was shown to enhance the effect of bleaching agents like hydroquinone". And, that "weekly 30% SA peels used for 8 weeks were shown to improve the appearance of melasma, PIH, postacne scars, fine lines, and wrinkles".

The other thing I found interesting was that "Unlike RA (retin a), GA (glycolic acid) does not induce angiogenesis and neovascularization in the dermis. This can be exploited for patients suffering from photo-induced telangiectasia or rosacea, conditions were RA is contraindicated".

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:26 am

rileygirl wrote:

I don't think the information was anything earth shattering or new for that fact.

Yep...I agree. I think the article is a great overview, and confirms what actually has research behind it and what does not. People should actually read the whole article from an information standpoint, but there was nothing that blew away from a "new news" standpoint.

I found the discussion of Retin A vs. Retinols to be interesting...
- Excess levels of Retin A cannot be stored in the skin, and the signs of irritation and peeling are due to levels being too high
- Some research shows that retinols can perform as well as Retin A, but it was the author's opinion that the retinols far underperformed Retin A. (Bethany: I assume this depends on the level of retinol in the product, and many OTCs have low amounts)

I also came away with a new appreciation for glycolic acid, and what improvements can come from daily low level usage (like 5%)...like a reduction in pigmentation, fine lines, etc.

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:43 am

bethany wrote:

I also came away with a new appreciation for glycolic acid, and what improvements can come from daily low level usage (like 5%)...like a reduction in pigmentation, fine lines, etc.

I agree! If I wasn't on 302, I would definitely go back on a GA product!

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 9:01 am

For me, the value of the article was threefold. First, it summarizes all the clinical research on most of the active skincare ingredients and disaggregates them by type: double blind or not, number of participants, method of assessment (subjective or objective measuring), and whether the study was done on human volunteers or on animals. Second, it discusses the probable scientific mechanism explaining how and why the ingredient does what it does (or speculates, where this is still unknown. It also suggests some biochemical problems with potential efficacy of certain ingredients--particularly large molecule actives--and discusses how those agents might be made more likely to penetrate the skin. Third, it helps consumers make choices by comparing efficacy of different things for specific problems--acne, line lines, hyperpigmentation, etc.

I recommend it as a good all-around source of the current state of scientific knowledge about skincare products for those like me who are inclined to make our choices on that basis.

Incidentally, I found it while procrastinating on Google Scholar--I was supposed to be looking for citations for a paper I am editing, and was goofing off looking up information on skincare instead...

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 10:44 am

Thanks ladies. I do intend to read it, just didn't have the time at the moment. (and, yeah, I was being a little lazy Rolling Eyes

)

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:19 pm

rileygirl wrote:

I don't think the information was anything earth shattering or new for that fact.

There were 2 things I found interesting for myself.

One was that "Salicylic Acid was shown to enhance the effect of bleaching agents like hydroquinone". And, that "weekly 30% SA peels used for 8 weeks were shown to improve the appearance of melasma, PIH, postacne scars, fine lines, and wrinkles".

The other thing I found interesting was that "Unlike RA (retin a), GA (glycolic acid) does not induce angiogenesis and neovascularization in the dermis. This can be exploited for patients suffering from photo-induced telangiectasia or rosacea, conditions were RA is contraindicated".

I haven't read the article yet, I'm in the process of printing it out but I have a few questions about terminology:

"Unlike RA (retin a), GA (glycolic acid) does not induce angiogenesis (WHAT's THIS?

) and neovascularization (HUH? Question

)in the dermis. This can be exploited for patients suffering from photo-induced telangiectasia (HUH? Question

) or rosacea, conditions were RA is contraindicated"

Laughing

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:21 pm

bethany wrote:

I also came away with a new appreciation for glycolic acid, and what improvements can come from daily low level usage (like 5%)...like a reduction in pigmentation, fine lines, etc.

This confirms my experience with glycolic acid. I have been using a product called Formula 2006 for the past year. It contains glycolic and salicyic acids (though I don't know in what percentages) and it has really helped even my skin tone and diminish brown sunspots.

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:50 pm

flitcraft wrote:

It also suggests some biochemical problems with potential efficacy of certain ingredients--particularly large molecule actives--and discusses how those agents might be made more likely to penetrate the skin.

That's a good point...the author also discussed growth factors. There was very little evidence tha they work Sad

, and they can actually have negative consequences like furthering tumor growth. Shock

(I think Flitcraft actually mentioned that some time ago)

The author also mentioned that one of the one common growth factor petides that supposedly penetrates better (as found in the ZO and Estion GFS products) could be easily tested, but the manufacturer nor the skincare companies have done the testing.

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:54 pm

jom wrote:

bethany wrote:

I also came away with a new appreciation for glycolic acid, and what improvements can come from daily low level usage (like 5%)...like a reduction in pigmentation, fine lines, etc.

This confirms my experience with glycolic acid. I have been using a product called Formula 2006 for the past year. It contains glycolic and salicyic acids (though I don't know in what percentages) and it has really helped even my skin tone and diminish brown sunspots.

http://www.drfrancesprennajones.com/products.html

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:59 pm

jom wrote:

I haven't read the article yet, I'm in the process of printing it out but I have a few questions about terminology:

"Unlike RA (retin a), GA (glycolic acid) does not induce angiogenesis (WHAT's THIS?

) and neovascularization (HUH? Question

)in the dermis. This can be exploited for patients suffering from photo-induced telangiectasia (HUH? Question

) or rosacea, conditions were RA is contraindicated"

Laughing

Angiogenesis is the development of new blood vessels...Retin A promotes this, and it can make your skin red/pink. That's ok, unless you are TOO red.

Neovascularization is development of new blood vessels in unsual places...like the cornea of your eye.

Telangiectasia is bigger than normal blood vessels...which means more redness.

So basically they are saying that GA can be used in cases where someone is already suffering from excessive redness, while RA would just makes things look even redder.

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:33 pm

Yep, angiogenesis = capillary formation

neovascularization = formation of new blood vessels.

telangiectasia = broken caps

free skin care · Mon Mar 16, 2009 5:43 pm

Thanks Bethany and rileygirl!

free skin care · Thu Mar 19, 2009 1:29 pm

The only other thing I took away from this article, besides those already mentioned, is that Vitamin C may help with stretch marks. And, 20% glycolic acid combined with either Retin A or Vitamin C, zinc sulfate and tyrosine showed a clinical improvement of stretch marks.

free skin care · Thu Mar 19, 2009 3:48 pm

The article is gone!! Sad

Any chance someone has it saved and could send it to me as an attachment?
Many thanks,
R.

free skin care · Thu Mar 19, 2009 3:53 pm

rubby wrote:

The article is gone!! Sad

Any chance someone has it saved and could send it to me as an attachment?
Many thanks,
R.

Try this link

http://www.la-press.com/article.php?article_id=911

free skin care · Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:32 am

I was doing some housecleaning this morning and found my hard copy printout of this great article.

Do any of us before that any of this is outdated or there is anything significant needed to update it?

Thanks BFG

free skin care · Sat Apr 07, 2012 10:33 am

I am sorry, I think faster than I type.

Do any of us *believe* this info is outdated or there is anything of significance to add to it?

Gracias, BFG

free skin care · Sat Apr 07, 2012 2:32 pm

Barefootgirl wrote:

I am sorry, I think faster than I type.

Do any of us *believe* this info is outdated or there is anything of significance to add to it?

Gracias, BFG

The paper is an excellent review of the evidence base, but is not current. All citations are older than 2007, so that's when it was written (takes ~6-8 months to get published). Five years is like a quarter of a lifetime in regenerative medicine.

Good on retinol, but lacks reviews of more recent literature on non-RA rx's. Salicylates & acne - not much new, buyt other acne actives starting to appear (e.g. boron). Good on ceramides,

Paper is written to emphasize the state of the evidence base, looking for definitive independent studies. Hard to find those, mainly because the NIH does not award grants for wrinkle studies. However, does a good job of tying together wound healing (grantable) vs wrinkles.

The world of growth factors and cytokines was new back than, so not much on that. Only mentions a few e.g. TGF, EGF, KGF. There are hundreds to consider.

Overall excellent. But not timely.

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