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Which chemical peel type is best for african americans?
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queenbluebee
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Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:45 am      Reply with quote
I am an african american and wondering which is the best peel for our skin type? I keep hearing two things:

1) Chemical peels are not appropriate for improving dark skin discoloration in people of color (Asians, African Americans, Caucasians of Mediterranean extraction, Hispanics, etc.)

2) Salicylic acid peels are better for African American Skin

3) Glycolic acid is good for all skin types

For those who have had a peel which one did you have? I have some acne scars on my back and shoulder and have thought about purchasing the 30% GLYCOLIC ACID Pre-Measured Pads.


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faith
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Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:49 am      Reply with quote
I have a friend who is African American/Japanese and she has not has any problems with 40% glycolic acid peels and 20% salicylic acid peels. I would not recommmend a TCA peel though, unless you go to a good derm, and they say it is ok.

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queenbluebee
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Tue Jul 26, 2005 7:53 am      Reply with quote
I thought about purchasing this product...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5599077055&category=29618&rd=1

Do you think it's ok or a gimimic?
Nickle
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Wed Jul 27, 2005 10:47 am      Reply with quote
Hi queenbluebee,

I tried the link yesterday but it had already expired. So, can't comment on "gimmick or not."

I have had a few chemical peels, but I'm not African-American. I had my peels done in a doctor's office by the esthetician - they weren't the deep medical chemical peels, only the cosmetic (light) peels for acne. They were done with glycolic acid, either 20% or 30%. It was painful and my face swelled and peeled and looked awful for a week. But - the peels did help (a LOT) with my acne scars.

But, from what I understand, black skin is more prone to keloid formation and scarring in general? (BTW, even though I am very fair, I form keloids as well - so does my dad.) It would stink if you inadvertently induced more scarring.

I would consult with a skin care pro - either a dermatologist or an esthetician in a doctor's office - before you start trying to treat at home. But I don't know what your options are for seeing someone in Japan, or if they could make good recommendations for your skin type either.

If you can't see anyone and want to try it at home, I would start with a low percentage. Although, the skin on our backs is much tougher than the skin on our faces, so perhaps you would be okay with 30%.

Maybe a dermatologist could treat the areas with a laser?

Hope this helps - and good luck!

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Fair/cool-neutral. Very oily. Acne/scarring. Blackheads, enlarged pores. On Accutane. DARK eye circles. Age 27.
queenbluebee
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:29 am      Reply with quote
These are the directions on a glycolic peel 30%.

Recommendations: Cleanse skin with an oil free cleanser and pat dry. Apply enough Glycolic Acid to cover the area, and avoid eyes, lips, and mucuos membranes, Do not rub into skin. Leave on for 4-6 minutes. Rinse well with lukewarm water and sodium bicarbonate paste to neutralize after the 4-6 minute application. Do not apply the Glycolic Acid more than once in a 7 day period. Apply a moisturizer containing sunscreen (SPF 15) Repeat proceedure once a week for 6 weeks, then pause for 1 month, then you may start again. 70% Glycolic Acid is recommended for use BELOW the neckline.

Seriously, am I suppose to do this once a weekd for 6 weeks. My question is what happens to your skin. Does it become sunburnt looking? Does it flake and peel? I'm not sure what happend with a glycolic peel.
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:44 am      Reply with quote
When I have done it, I have 30% glycolic peel BTW, it just gets dry in some areas and peels a little like dry skin. I would not do it as often as they say. If your skin actually peels, I think once over 3-4 weeks is plenty. Just my opinion...

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Nickle
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 10:26 am      Reply with quote
When I was getting the 30% glycolic peels, it was recommended once every 4-6 weeks. My face would swell and peel like a horrible sunburn and look awful for 5 days. But I have very sensitive skin, and the skin on the back is tough. Did your back ever peel? Did your fingers recover?

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crstyle69
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 1:44 pm      Reply with quote
Hey Guys,

I use a wash with 10% Glycolic and a night time moisturizer with 20% glycolic and I was told to wash every day with the Glycolic, but moisturize every other day. My skin looks dry and peely. Should I be using it less often.

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Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:33 pm      Reply with quote
crstyle69 wrote:
Hey Guys,

I use a wash with 10% Glycolic and a night time moisturizer with 20% glycolic and I was told to wash every day with the Glycolic, but moisturize every other day. My skin looks dry and peely. Should I be using it less often.


How many times are you washing and applying the cream everyday? Once is really enough IMO. I would try moisturizer over the AHA lotion.

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queenbluebee
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 5:38 pm      Reply with quote
Nickle wrote:
Did your back ever peel? Did your fingers recover?


As for my back absolutely nothing. Not a flake, not a peel, not even a spot of dryness. Apparently, the 12.5 TCA peel wasn't strong enough.

As for my fingers, they peeled and were extremely dry for a few days. The benefit is now my hands feel really smooth on the inside even hubby commented on how nice and smooth they felt. I was worried about the fingerprints because yesterday I had to get fingerprinted for a new job the security clearance process.
dalguy
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Wed Aug 03, 2005 6:24 pm      Reply with quote
Quote:
Chemical peels are not appropriate for improving dark skin discoloration in people of color


They aren't that great for anyone who has that problem, in all honesty. If that is your only concern, I wouldn't jump right to high % peels. (But they can certainly be helpful.)
The reason they often say AA skin is a contraindication is because it's possible they (TCA, etc) can lighten skin. (Side effect known as hypopigmentation.) It can be done, and it can be done safely, with normal, expected side effects. Obagi's Blue Peel (pretty much (TCA w/ blue dye) is often performed on AA's. Something to discuss, but not lose sleep over. Proceed with caution no matter what.

Quote:
Salicylic acid peels are better for African American Skin


Better than glycolic/lactic, perhaps. Not that it's a better choice for your skin color, it's just (usually) more effective than glycolic/lactic.

Quote:
Glycolic acid is good for all skin types


Not necessarily. It penetrates selectively, and unevenly. I'd say best for drier, sundamaged skin.

TCA or SA would be my choices. Unless you are a very experienced layperson, I wouldn't rec doing anything over 12% TCA yourself. AA skin is not a contraindication for higher % TCA peels, but one must be careful regardless. Discuss this with a dermatologist or plastic surgeon. A series of light peels over a period of time is much better and much safer than trying to hit it hard with one peel. Anything can be dangerous.

It's a catch 22...peels are notorious for causing pigmentation...it usually fades quickly but is generally ok. I'd speak with a derm or plastic surgeon if possible.

Sunscreen is of utmost importance. If you don't use it, don't bother with peels. Pretty self-defeating.

Extra note:
I saw another post that said moisturizing after peels is a "no no." Not true. Use of moisturizers, maybe. But, occlusive products speed up healing and are highly recommended. When your skin is freshly peeled, avoid all products except the very basic (occlusive preperations, etc) until your skin has healed. When it has, you can go back to a semi normal routine (cleansing, use of sunscreen) and when all side effects are gone, you can go back to your skin routine as it was before. (Whatever treatments you might have been using, as well as other products, etc.)
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