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Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:30 pm  |
hi,
been using some sort of vit C serum for a while. recently i got a whole new batch of ingredients from lotioncrafter and having some problems mixing them up. i got:
- ultra-fine ascorbic acid
- Map -magnesium ascorbyl phosphate
- Mixed Tocopherols T50, Natural Vitamin E
- ferulic acid
- butylene glycol (to dissolve the ferulic--don't drink so no vodka)
- oliwax LC (flakes) to emulsify (not a fan of the fermented kelp)
i disolve the Cs in water; separately the ferulic in butylene glycol, and then add the E+oliwax (heated to mix); then mix all together. however the wax seems to resolidify and not mix.
any thoughts/suggestions?
thank you! |
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WM, 31, overall good skin often undone by over-aggressive "care" |
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Sun Apr 15, 2012 2:54 pm |
| Not totally sure, but I think your problem is your emulsifier. I havent seen a recipe for a c serum with an emulsifier that needs heating to be used. If you wanted to use that emulsifier i would think that your would first need to make a cream with it and then add the cream to your serum. My understanding is that to use that type of an emulsifier you need to use heat and mix the phases at approximately the same temperature. Heating your l-absorbic acid can cause it to oxidize faster or render it less effective. Have you considered using polysorbate 80? I have seen it in a few recipes. What about aloe Vera gel? It would still probably need a shake but would be almost as effective as the SKB. I am not too experienced here, so I could be wrong, just trying to offer some suggestions |
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-Kristin |
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Sun Apr 15, 2012 4:32 pm |
I dont heat my ingredients (aside from warming the water/LAA phase in a warm water bath to help it go into solution) or use anything "artificial" in my serums. Using pure liquid phosphatidylcholine + sea emollient as emulsifiers I can cold process and emulsify the oil/water phases completely.
I use 99% ethanol to dissolve my ferulic because I dont like butylene glycol (I know its the "safest" form but I still shy away)
Just my 0.02. |
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Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:11 pm |
| PS, if your wax resolidifies, have you tried holding all phases at the same temp and blending them together that way? I find this works when Im compounding with SepiWhite - another waxy substance. |
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Sun Apr 15, 2012 7:40 pm |
Product details
Specification: 98.78%
CAS# 114040-31-2
Appearance: (White-yellowish powder, mild odor
Solubility: water
Dissolving MAP: Sift MAP through sieve (like icing sugar on a cake) on water heated to 50 Celcius, while mixing vigorously.
Suggested percentage: 3 to 5%
suggested pH: may discolor in pH <6, best when used in emulsion based products at pH between 5.5-7.
pH value: 7.0-8.5.
Storage: Store in cool and dry place. Keep away from direct strong light and heat.
Product information
Mesh size: 100% through 100, 95% though 200 (US standard sieve) - Ultra-fine powder. Our 100% pure L-Ascorbic Acid is an ultra- fine powder. It feels like ICING SUGAR. It does not require grinding and will EASILY dissolve in water up to 25% , it also disperses very well in a silicone base.
Solubility: water
PH: 2.2 - 2.5 (at 5% in water)
Suggested percentage: 10% to 15% (20% if you can handle it)
Stability: L-Ascorbic Acid is very unstable. As soon as you put it in water, it will start oxidizing. It is best used fresh every day. It can be made substantially more stable if your formula contains a large percentage of ethanol. Ferulic Acid will also help stabilize it.
Most make their LAA serums at pH of 3.5 or lower.
http://www.bulkactives.com/categories/vitaminc.htm
I have different serums that I use Am&Pm, but hey that is just me.  |
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I'LL SEE YOU ON THE DARKSIDE OF THE MOON.... |
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Mon Apr 16, 2012 4:19 pm |
thank you all for responding
yes, clearly the problem is the emulsifier. i will try your suggestions next (especially equalizing the temperature)
didn't know you could use aloe gel as an emulsifier. i'm out right not but have the conductive gel for the nuface which i use everyday.  m. wonder if that would work to emulsify. then again i'm not sure the ingredients of that are smthg i want on/absorbing into my skin.
darkmoon--i use the serum multiple times, including at night before i put on my emu+oil-soluble C after my retin-a. (sounds like a lot, i know, but i've really pared it down) |
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WM, 31, overall good skin often undone by over-aggressive "care" |
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